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Found 112 results

  1. JUDAS

    Suzuki DR-Z400SM (2008)


    Just like everyone else. good, reliable and fun to ride. Lots of aftermarket goodies and way to easy to spend way too much money on.<br /><br />Huge knowledge base on this bike makes it easier to save a few buck on most upgrades.
  2. yankeekid51

    Honda CRF150RB Expert (2014)


    Fun, snappy, fast little bugger. It's an angry little bike, but a ton of fun!
  3. CrashySmashyKyle

    Suzuki DR-Z400S (2013)


    Definitely a change from the SV650S that I was accustomed to riding for many years. The stock DRZ400S is not nearly as commuter friendly as I had hoped (Balto-D.C. Metro area). Not quite as highway capable either. It does have it's strong points though. It's torquey and accelerates quickly for having such a small engine, and seems to like being thrown through back roads. Already started modifying the ergonomics and road going abilities of the bike with only 800 miles. Will probably turn it into an ongoing project to see what it will take to make it a streetfighter in dual sport clothing... Thus far (after owning the bike for 4 months) it's had Pro Taper KX High bars installed, a 3.9 gallon Clarke MFG tank with Tusk gas cap, Moose Adventure seat, Acerbis front fender, and a DG O-Series slip-on exhaust added to it. More changes in the future...
  4. motoinmoab

    Lowering your seat height

    There are several common ways to lower your bike, from cheap to expensive. All have their advantages and issues. The best overall results usually come from combining a couple of these methods. Warning: When you lower the bike, your frame and foot pegs go down. Do only as much as you have to, you will bash your skid plate and kick bad stuff that others will clear. First, cut your seat. You can easily do this yourself, it's much easier than you think, costs you nothing but some new staples. Take out 1" to 1 1/2" and you'll really feel the difference, in height and comfort Use an electric carving knife, you’ll get a much better finished product. ( If you don’t have one, they’re only $15 ) Use a foam sanding block to get a smooth finished edge. Staple your original cover back on and you’re done. One problem is that when sitting you've just raised your bars, and tightened up your knee bend. Some people don't like that, some feel better sitting lower into the bike. Next is a lowering link. I've used a Kouba Link on a couple of my bikes, there are several other manufacturers of lowering links out there. They are very easy to install and usually don’t cost too much. For my DR-Z they’re $80, for my Honda CRF they’re $140. They are available in different lengths, but the more you drop the seat the more it affects your suspension travel. Here’s a quote from the Kouba site FAQ’s: “They put more leverage on the rear spring and make the rear more compliant on the small stuff but may require a heavier rear spring to help prevent bottoming if a rider is very aggressive.” I think the model that drops your seat about 1" is the best, much more than that and the suspension tuning and steering problems can start to arise. If you’re not a real aggressive rider, lowering links are great. You can take your suspension to a specialist shop and they will put spacers inside the forks and shock. These will restrict the overall length of your shocks, lowering your whole bike by reducing the amount of travel you have available. This service will require new fork springs, and can include custom tuning the suspension for how you ride. Cost runs from $400 to $800, and you lose some travel. But if you’re a trail rider with a harsh MX suspension, now's the time to take care of both issues. A different rear tire can lower your seat. The popular Dunlop D756 110/100x18 is a relatively tall tire. A Michelin AC10 110/100x18 has a 3/4” smaller diameter, that’s a 3/8” lower seat height. A Dunlop D739 100/100x18 is 1” smaller, giving a 1/2” lowering. Yes, that D739 is a little narrower, but it’s really quick turning in tight stuff. Some riders choose to cut their sub-frame. You cut out a small (+/-1/4”) piece of the diagonal strut of the sub-frame and weld it back together. Be Careful, too much and you will bottom your tire into your fender before you use full travel. To me, the bike then feels like a chopper. If you decide to go with a lowering link or shortened suspension, and you go 1 1/4” or more, your kick stand will be a little too long. Not unusable, but enough that your bike might tip over if you aren’t real careful. Try to resist the temptation to lower the bike until you get both feet flat on the ground. You’ll have lost some important ground clearance and ride quality. If you can get your toes to touch on both sides, you’re doing better than Ricky Carmichael. And how often can any of us say that?
  5. Baxter67

    Beta 300 RR (2015)


    I told my wife I was buying a bike with everything I wanted on it when it's new, so I ordered this on Beta's BYOB at $12,000 total, in July '14 and received it Sept '14, a great deal for what's in the bike, I was surprised she was good with that. The bike has been reliable and has me riding faster than ever.
  6. motocrossman54

    Honda CRF250R (2007)


    Overall great bike, wish it had a little more snap in the bottom end but other than that lots of power.
  7. Rideolder

    BMW R1200GS Adventure (2011)


    Sweet ride
  8. McRailberm

    Kawasaki KX250F (2009)


    pro's: Easy to get comfortable with, great powerband, it's fast, good handling, fits tall riders well cons: bolts around plastics have a tendency to loosen up so tighten regularly, keep an eye out on the radiator fluid, stock seat too soft even for novice/intermediate riders like myself, stock clutch component allright but not great
  9. DDG44

    KTM 690 Enduro R (2015)

    1 comment

    To soon to give a thorough review, but so far I am impressed. It is a 2016, But no drop down menu for it yet.
  10. mele63

    How to shave and step a seat

    How to shave and step a seat: step by step pics...
  11. motoinmoab

    Suzuki DR-Z400S (2013)


    I love the DRZ, it does everything I want a bike to do. Some of my other mods that aren't detailed below are the Vibranator vibration canceling bar inserts, flush mount rear turn signals, ProMoto billet rack, and a tool box from a Yamaha XT225.
  12. prwler

    Seat Cover Install

    Here's what you need. 1. Small flat blade screwdriver 2. Needle nose pliers 3. Staple gun and staples 1/4 or 3/8 will work **Buy or rent an electric stapler** 3. Hair dryer **Not required but it helps** Clean you seat, just don't get it too wet (foam will swell) Check fit to make sure you have the right cover before taking off the old one! Remove staples Check your foam for damage, repair with contact cement Start with the top (tank) area of seat, put in a couple of staples [ Work your way down the sides pulling tight and stapling, if you have a few wrinkles, remove the staples in that area and smooth out. This is where a hair dry comes in handy. Warm up the seat cover, stretch it into place, and staple it. As it cools, the material will shrink making for a nice tight fit. ***be careful not to heat it up so much you melt the plastic*** When you get most of the way done put the seat on the bike and check fit, the tank may pull or push the seat and cause a wrinkle Hear again, remove a few staples and stretch and re-staple When you done you should not be able to pinch up the cover Install seat, it should look smooth and tight Now go Ride !
  13. WoodsRacerDotCom

    Seat Concepts

    finally got around to ordering a new seat, now that seat concepts offers a complete seat, thought I would share my initial impressions here. I called and spoke to the owner who informed me that they just are now making complete seats. I immediatly ordered one and he told me it would ship out the following week from CA which would put it at my door just a couple days before the Hancock NY dual sport (200 miles). 5 days later I get a email notification that it shipped, great....will be in time for my dual sport! Then 2 days later I checked the tracking and it was returned to seat concepts instead of making it's way to me. I emailed the owner and he explained that his guy send it out regular ground and he was concerned that I would not have the seat in time for my ride, so he called it back and sent another seat out via 2 day air! now, the seat would have gotten here in time for my ride anyway, but the fact that he went through all of that trouble to make sure I had the seat for my ride is some of the best customer service I have ever experienced! I'll be in Hancock arrowing the course today and will report back on the seat tonight, but I really like the looks and feel of it so far. I would explain it as: the mullet of seats...business in the front and party in back!
  14. rebelionshot

    Honda CR125R (2001)


    01 CR125R New top end & Bottom end, needs fork seals, aftermarket Acerbis plastics, Effex grip seat,FMF gold fatty, FMF powercore2 shorty, 13/52 sprocket
  15. Well folks, as some of you might already know, I've spent some time and money getting my KX250 woods-worthy, and manageable for my short stature (light forks and shock springs, hand guards, smaller front sprocket, skid plate, shaved seat, etc). I did my new top end exactly 2 weeks ago. And then it happened: I found out my buddy was selling his low hour 2009 XC 200 2T. And I'll be the first to say that I never thought I'd own a KTM. I grew up in 70's America, falling in love with Hemi super stock cars. Brute force, in your face. Just like my KX. But the XC is just so... gentlemanly. Nimble, light, refined. Truly enjoyable to ride (I've never been on any KTM before) Honestly, I would compare the feel more to my trials bike than a MX bike. The odd thing is that on paper, the KTM has exactly 1 more horsepower than my KX. But it doesn't feel it. I kept waiting for the hang-on-oh-my-God assault like my KX delivers, but it's not there. I know the delivery is intentionally moved to the lower end for these XC's. And it does wake up with a deliberate twist of the throttle. But it's just missing...something. I intentionally didn't post in the KTM section because I didn't want the KTM pompous elite telling me what a "real bike" feels like. Anyone here have a similar experience? Don't get me wrong, in 10 minutes I was in love with the bike and committed to buying it. But I'm hoping that the strong points of the XC will get stronger as I ride and will overshadow my occasional need for an adrenaline fix, instead of me getting more bored with it. And fwiw, I ride strictly woods, trails, enduro. I love technical stuff (as if the trials bike didn't clue you in). And please guys, keep the sarcasm and elitist comments out. I'm truly looking for experiences you've had, if similar. Don't make me come over there!