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  1. Looking for recommendations for an adjustable softer rate shock for my girls ‘15 TTR110. I’ve searched numerous web stores and forums not finding much info except doing major mods. She’s 8 and about 65 lbs. and has complained of her “front butt hurts” because the stock shock is too stiff.
  2. Hey all fellow riders, I just bought a KTM 690smc 2008 model and I can see there is quite some leakage of oil from the shock. I have removed the spring according to the manual, and the next step according to the repair msnusl next step is to release preassure, So what I'm nor sure about is if I have to release the nitro, if so do I need to release it all? is there som kind of upgrade to change the nitro valve to something more garage friendly? I have only ordered the repair kit for the piston part numer R15004 https://sparepartsfinder.ktm.com/ComponentGroupTemplate/Index/6490?modelidentifier=1000176207&isEngine=False
  3. I recently rebuilt my 650R's rear suspension bearings, as at least the upper shock bearing was completely toast and there were several milimeters play noticeable when lifting the swingarm at the rear axle bolt, accompanied by an explicit "clack" noise somewhere in rear suspension. So I replaced all of the bearings (swingarm, linkage, shock and bone) with new ones. I used quality product standardized bearings (because Honda really demands some $$$ for each of the 10 or so bearings) for all pivots except the lower shock bearing, as this is a special size which can only be ordered from Honda (19mm inner diameter). I also replaced the inner shafts/axles as they may have been worn significantly, I didn't/couldn't measure that. Replaced everything, did a quick test afterwards and still felt a lot of play at the rear axle. Maybe 2-3mm. Less than before, but definitely still there and still with a "clack". So I re-rolled the rebuild and found significant play in the lower shock bearing (the OEM Honda!!). I filmed the rotational play around the radial axis of the needle bearing (which should be close to 0 for needle bearings in my understanding), can be seen here: https://streamable.com/sp246l - again, this video was filmed when fully bolted down and with brand new OEM bearing and inner bearing ring. I did some research and found a lot of people saying that some play in rear suspension for the 650R is normal. Now I know why. I also inspected the old inner bearing ring and found significant wear with visible and sensible dents - really doesn't surprise me with that load of play out of the box. Long story short, I turned one of the bearing shafts of the other suspension bearings down to something between 19.05 and 19.1mm (from 20mm, didn't have the tools to measure it more exact) and cut it to length (also pressed in another steel tube to reduce the inner diameter from 12 to 10mm). Definitely was a pain in the ass as the material was brutally hard, I had to go by 1/20mm steps on my mini-lathe. In the end, the result was okay-ish: Now all I had left to do was to reassemble the suspension. My custom inner ring for the lower shock bearing went in stiffly and didn't run as smooth as before, for sure, but still okay for this application. The result can be seen here: https://streamable.com/b85g10 I am pretty satisfied with it, also the play felt when lifting the rear axle is almost gone, no clicking and clacking noticeable. Maybe Honda had a deeper thought regarding the play in this bearing I am not able to understand. But honestly, I just think Honda or their supplier for this custom bearing &%$#@!ed something up. 0.05-0.1mm off in a small sized bearing is not just some fabrication tolerance. Let me know your thoughts to that! Ride on, Graylack 🙂
  4. I have a 1995 125 with a 250 motor and everything fit before But now the back shock is hitting the back end of the motor anyone know why
  5. Hi, I have a 2005 kx 85 and I’m looking to but I different shock for it and I was wondering if a shock off of a 2006 would fit? So if any one knows anything it would be greatly appreciated as i need to buy it very soon. Thanks in advance, Caden.
  6. I'm redoing my 2002s oem suspension all the way around. I'm 6' 2" and 210lbs and would really like to know what y'all would recommend for suspension settings I ride trails in the Midwest. low-med speed with small jumps. I know I need a bigger bike but that requires bigger pockets lol. If anyone could recommend settings I should use for dampening speed and what not I'd greatly appreciate it. (the adjustment screws all around)
  7. I have a 1997 xr200r I am currently doing a mild rebuild. I found a set of forks on ebay but I have noticed that the rear shock is not readily available like the forks. Is there an alternate route that I could take that would work with my bike?
  8. I am restomodding my 1986 Honda CR500. The existing Ohlins HO4490 rear shock is severely damaged and cannot be reused without a full rebuild and replacement of multiple main parts. My Question: Are there any new aftermarket shocks that will fit? Or, what other bikes have the same/similar shocks? Otherwise, does anybody have a main tube laying around for an Ohlins shock of this size?
  9. I am not here to sell you a product: "Try this protein powder, you'll get bigger", or "Buy these shoes, you'll run faster", or "Buy this bike, and you'll win more races". I've been both the guy trying to sell you something (in which I believed the products to be sound), and I've also been the guy buying these different products. For the most part, the results from many of them have been less then stellar. Some from my lack of commitment, others didn't meet my personal requirements, but mostly because they were simply J.U.N.K... So why do I feel a bolt on dirt-bike shock should be excluded from my original statement? Because I only want to sell you an experience... I can only relate my experience as "threading the needle" as I felt most of this story is exactly that. Though the performance of the National Shock was recognized on paper, the reality of how good the National Shock really is became apparent when I hit the dirt. In 2nd gear, on the throttle hard coming out of a right hand turn into a straight stretch I never shut the throttle off as I threaded perfectly though a recent fresh cut log, approx. 15in in diameter and less then 12in apart hiding in the grass. It was at that moment the National Shock revealed how good suspension could really be. Not once did the fear of the rear end stepping out, the lose of traction or some unexplained event cause me to shut the throttle off. I could simply say it was confidence. In no other times in questionable traction conditions (or any conditions I imagine) would I have thought this was possible. That single experience has carried the way I have tested this shock since. I have 'threaded the needle' in most every situation I can think of and not once have a thought any less of the performance offered by this Mx-Tech National Shock. There wasn't an area I didn't feel the shock didn't offer top level performance above not only my stock shock, but my highly modified stock shock also by Mx-Tech. We have a sand track with a hard base that get baked in the summer, the rollers that develop are not of envy. They are difficult to time correctly, deep, rutted and offer no mercy to half-throttle riders. Even the best tire quickly if not conditioned. I hit the track with a bit of intimidation. but the result was a shock that never faulted. If it did bottom, I couldn't feel it... Maybe I imagine the shocks bottoming characteristics are one of those of dropping a bowling ball onto a mattress, not a concrete floor? Everything felt smooth, comfortable and in control, no packing or such. I do believe the shock overall was too soft for the kind of riding as it was setup for off-road but still... An example being a small step-up that you need to land off the previous jump and bounce back on top The shock was absorbing the impact and not giving me the full 'pop' or bounce I needed. I always clipped with top with the rear wheel but never out of control. If the stop-watch was on I bet I still did this section faster. Flat corners, bermed corners, inside or outside, I was able to put the bike where I wanted with more accuracy then before. When coming into braking bumps both large and small, the National Shock followed the ground with more control, eliminating the 'shock or sting' of bottoming while not kicking in both a side to side/up and down direction. The bike felt stable and comfortable as the shock was not transferring any feedback through the bike either. Braking could be done considerably later, and with more precision and control. When coming into corners I could not only hit them faster but with more accuracy, which in turn allowed me to carry more speed out of the corners then Imight have been previously familiar with. The traction coming out allowed for the bike to push forward with more drive and confidence knowing the rear end was sticking to the ground and not hunting. Everything displayed was welcomed and not one single fault could be found. Being a off-road guy I took to the trails as part of my test(s). In every single situation on my loops, the National Shock found traction that otherwise was not previously there due to the slippery conditions. Whether is was up some of the rock faces, or through rock gardens the shock followed the ground, never skipping, kicking or becoming unpredictable. The traction created more drive, in turn more momentum which allowed me to hit obstacle with not only more speed but more control too. I'm a good log hopper... Any size, angle, or multiples in a row I have always felt comfortable jumping them. The shock seemed to absorb them better with no kick. Lining up logs became easier, micro-corrections took less effort. Could I complain the shock was maybe a little too good in this are? When jumping logs in sequence, you want suspension a little firmer so you can get both the distance and height. Unfortunately the shock absorbed logs too well. When it came to ruts, or muliple ruts, the bike tracked straighter and didn't want to climb out. Side-hills could be hit with more speed and accuracy, and with less fear of the rear end stepping out causing you to slide to the valley bottom. Overall, two things I found to be most important are 1.) I could 'thread the needle' on every obstacle. I could do everything closer to the edge then I could have done before. I could hit a log straighter, jump off it farther while coming into a corner with braking bumps, brake late and get on the throttle sooner while lining up a rutted hill-climb. Straight up, I was faster. and with a higher level of confidence. The other being that because I could do this with less effort, I wasn't as tired as I might have been before. Since starting this review I have ridden multiple times with National Shock and every time has been better then the last as I am looking to find something that would show me otherwise, I haven't. Edit: In my initial testing, I didn't have Mx-Techs supplied shock spring. When combined with the National shock (included in purchase) you get an approx. 1lb weight savings over the stock shock. With all that being said, The Mx-Tech National Shock is on my short-list for Santa for 2020 off-road season. Its simply that good....
  10. Hi. New member and all that..nice to meet u! Recently bought a very abused 1989 RM125. Disassembled the backend and have replaced all swingarm bearings and reinstalled it. Have replaced all bearings in the linkages including the spherical bearing that the shock bolts on to. Unlike other bearings this one was very tight to fit, but is in its correct position and is undamaged. The spacers that fit either side of this bearing do appear to now protrude by around 1mm either side? To make the connection to the lower shock now requires force! Once assembled my upper shock mounting is around 5mm out of alignment with the hole in the frame. All bolts are loose to not restrict movement. I've checked all photos of the bike taken before I took it apart and parts diagrams, but cannot identify the cause of the problem. Its almost as though my shock has grown whilst removed from the bike!! Ive now reassembled everything in reverse, but again cannot make the connection to the lower shock mounting without significant force. Any clues from the pics please? Does the position of the swingarm in my second pic look right? Almost feels as though it is hanging too low? Thanks.
  11. While doing a rebuild and oil change on my kyb shock for a 2010 KX450F I took out the rebound adjuster. At a point in time the aluminum collar with holes in it came out which had a small metal o ring on the inside lip of it. Well this ring ran off and left because I can't find this s#&t to save my life. Does anyone know the name of the ring or where I can buy another.
  12. New shock available for the XTrainer from Lainer suspension. Check it here https://www.lainersuspension.com/shop/sospensioni-factory/ammortizzatore-lainer-suspension/
  13. I can’t seem to get the bladder off my shock for a rebuild, I already replaced it but I put the c flip in the wrong grove and it exploded and now I can’t seem to get my shock bladder off again, and don’t feel like buying the rush tool to get it off.... I’ve tried everything to get it off and am just wondering if there is a way to fill it up with oil without taking the bladder off. Anything helps, thanks.
  14. I've recently been told that my 2001 rm250 shock is beyond repair and the only one I can find in decent condition is off a 2000 I'm just wondering if everything will bolt up and fit
  15. So, the rear shock on my 2009 KTM 200 XC-W is leaking quite a lot and is in desperate need of a rebuild. I can't seem to find anywhere close to me that rebuilds dirt bike suspension. I live in Central Arkansas. Any suggestions?
  16. I bought a used 03 Honda crf150f. If I push down on the seat of the bike, the bike will compress down and bounce up a few times quickly. I don’t know a whole lot about dirt bikes but I’m guessing it shouldn’t be that bouncy. When I ride and I stand up on the bike, it’s bouncy as well if I try to push my feet up in the pegs and bounce up and down. So I’m guessing it’s either the shock is bad or the forks are blown? Maybe the suspension needs adjusted? I know some basic stuff but I don’t know much about dirtbike suspension. I know my description isn’t that great but what do you think the issue may be?
  17. Hello, I have a 2017 300 EXC/XCW. I have recently added the Dal Soggio XP-One kit in my forks and I also converted the shock shim stack to be the same as the 2019 version. I compared the shock parts list for 2017 and 2019 and found out that only the main piston (which I bought, but eye-comparing them it looks the same) and the shim stack have changed. The complete settings are available at www.ktmshop.se. I actually copied the 450/500 EXC-F settings and not the 250/300EXC since the big 4 stroke bikes are more heavy and come with stiffer springs. I rode a friend's 2019 450 and liked the suspension a lot. I weight 233lb(106kg) with full gear, height 194cm and I am using 4.8N/mm springs in front and 69-72-75 spring in the shock, which are rated for 105-115kg rider. SAG is at 102mm. I am very happy with the results specially in the fork. I got the "floating" feeling I was looking for in small rocks and roots (both in forks and shock), no more fork diving, riding higher in the stroke and have a more predictable suspension. But I think the shock is still a bit bouncy and/or stiff in the middle of the stroke, when crossing bigger rock beds or subsequent roots at speed, like 2nd or 3rd gear at high RPM. Current settings: Front: Maxima 5W oil and 130mm air gap Compression leg 22 clicks from full hard Rebound leg 13 clicks from full hard Rear: Low speed comp 25 clicks High speed comp 1/4 from fully open (just over 2.5 turns) Rebound 15 clicks The shim stack I'm using for the shock are below: 2019 (current setup) Piston 1 Compression 1x 12x26x0,30 1x 12x28x0,25 1x 12x30x0,25 1x 12x32x0,25 1x 12x34x0,20 1x 12x36x0,20 2x 12x38x0,20 2x 12x40x0,25* 1x 12x28x0,15* 3x 12x42x0,20* *changed for 2019 Rebound (most changes are here) 2x 12x22x0,20 1x 12x24x0,30 1x 12x26x0,30 1x 12x28x0,25 1x 12x30x0,20 2x 12x32x0,20 1x 12x24x0,10 1x 12x20x0,10 8x 12x34x0,15 Piston 2 (both 2017 and 2019 are the same stack) Compression 2x 10x17x0,30 1x 10x21x0,30 2x 10x23x0,20 2x 10x25x0,20 2x 10x27x0,20 1x 10x29x0,30 1x 10x31x0,30 4x 10x33x0,25 2017 (old factory setup) Piston 1 Compression 1x 12x26x0,30 1x 12x28x0,25 1x 12x30x0,25 1x 12x32x0,25 1x 12x34x0,20 1x 12x36x0,20 2x 12x38x0,20 3x 12x40x0,20 1x 12x28x0,15 3x 12x40x0,20 Rebound 4x 12x22x0,30 1x 12x24x0,25 1x 12x26x0,20 1x 12x28x0,20 1x 12x30x0,20 2x 12x32x0,20 1x 12x20x0,15 2x 12x32x0,20 Considering my weight and my springs that are 3 levels stiffer than stock, do you guys have any suggestions I could do to shock shim stack to be more plush? I ride standing up most of the time, been riding for 22 years (I'm 35), I don't compete but try to ride as fast as I can. If I could choose between a very comfortable suspension OR a firmer/stiffer suspension aiming more performance, I would go for option 2.
  18. I am in need of replacing my rear shock on my 1999 kx125 and was just wondering if I bought a 1997 kx125 shock, will it work for a direct replacement for my bike?
  19. Yo! I got an 2017 Apollo 70cc Clutchless (Semi Auto) Chinese bike. I bought it brand new to learn how to wheelie. Now from the start it needed a few things, a name branded carb (Mikuni), some new tires and tubes, and some bars and shock. I bought all four of those. The two important things are the PT Mini Bars and that shock. Well the bars are good, but the rear shock is slightly bad IMO. So when I first rode it, I wasn't able to move the bike since I weigh 220+ and the bike is made for 10 year olds, making the spring squish to each other. So I went on eBay and bought a non-named brand shock for $25 (yes, a chinese shock, for $25). So while riding it, it is absolutely amazing, but when lifting the bike, it compresses the spring and I feel a hard hit and then it comes up. I tried tightening the shock, but the chrome adjuster won't move. After that, even if I WOT, the bike comes up for 1 second and then drops back down. I'm not hitting the rear brake, but am hovering over it. What's up with that? Here's the shock I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/250MM-10MM-SHOCK-ABSORBER-SUSPENSION-SHOCKER-Mini-QUAD-ATV-BIKE-Cart-400LBS/142402885652?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Here's one that I found.. better or nah?: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pit-Bike-Rear-Shock-Suspension-for-SDG-SSR-125-Taotao-Coolste-250mm-10-Dirt-US/112631086397 Next, I bought some pads off a 2012 CRF50F, but they don't fit. So it'll line up with the block, but won' with the screw. It has a whole instead of an arch if that makes any sense (pics below). What brakes do I put? Link? I also bought some riser clamps for the bar, but it looks like the tree itself has an arch. Could I just buy the whole tree-clamp kit and just use the top tree or do I have to change it all (with the whole steering, forks, and all that)? I know it depends on how the forks line up and all, but does anyone know? What I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-8-HANDLEBAR-HANDLE-BAR-RISER-for-CRF50-110-125cc-KLX-TTR-TAOTAO-Dirt-BIKE-su/112696941668?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Here's what I want: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-TRIPLE-CLAMP-SET-W-RISER-HONDA-SSR-SDG-125CC-107CC-110CC-Pit-Bike-H-TC01/181056645677 Or maybe this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIPLE-Tree-CLAMP-SET-W-RISER-for-front-fork-SSR-SDG-Pit-Bike-9-TC02/182611502398 I also need some footpegs because I'm a size 12 shoe, and these things are small as hell. Link to one you have? Are these bigger?: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Foot-Peg-for-CRF80-CRF100-taotao-ssr-crf50-klx-ttr-110cc-125cc-Pit-bike-su/112404456940?var=412804823682 Next, I'll be needing an FMF Pipe WITH a Spark Arrestor. Will this one fit? (For a CRF50): https://www.ebay.com/itm/CRF50-XR-50-2000-19-FMF-PowerCore-4-Spark-Arrestor-Full-System-w-Header-040011/233290142499?hash=item36512d1323:g:BLQAAOSwp~pdL7X7&vxp=mtr The two important things are the footpegs and the FMF. I know what size shock is needed (shown in the ad I purchased from), just want to make sure it can resist my wheelies haha. Let me know if you can help! Thanks!
  20. I have a 2002 XR200 in need of a shock! Anyone have any for sale?! Thanks in advance
  21. Hi I just replaced all the bearings of my linkage/swingarm/upper shock and I wanted to inspect my shock at the same time. However, I just don’t know how to inspect it and how to tell if it’s good or not... Can someone explain me how I can inspect my rear shock?
  22. Hello, I recently picked up a '84 XR500R that was in okay shape. They only component that needed a lot of attention was the rear suspension. I looked into prices for rebuilding it and found that it might be much better financially to just try to fit a more modern shock to the bike. Has anyone fit a more modern shock to their XR500R? Was there any modifications you needed to make to the linkage or Shock? I work an manufacturing so I have access to lathes and mills. Any advice would be appreciated. Michael
  23. Hi Is it anybody who know the stock shock valving on a old vintage Honda cr 500-1990?
  24. Does anyone know if a rear shock off any other bikes will fit a cr85?
  25. Hello, I am looking to upgrade my rear shock. I have owned the bike for a few years and it recently came to light I need to upgrade my rear shock. I weigh about 6'2 250lbs and no matter what it always feels like my back tire is flat because all I do is slide around. I can't seem to find a good means of making sure the spring I have is right. This is what I found https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/race-tech-shock-spring-p?0&v=2824&idd1=5903&idd2=5183, I plan to go with the 6.6kg (unless maybe i should be on the 6.0?) Being that I own a (red) crf250x, sucks that it seems to only come in blue but thats really not a big worry for me if it is what I need to get proper performance from my bike. Thanks in advance for the help.
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