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Showing results for tags 'ShocksStrutsComponents'.
Found 66 results
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Just picked this up for my daughter. She loves it -
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Actually a 2009 model. Not a bad machine. Bad bits; radiators are easy to damage, even with 'gaurds'. Suspension is pretty average, stock. Suspension linkage needs greasing more than average due to a bad seal design. A bit heavy, and not real nimble. Good bits; Tons of power, easy to work on. E-start (plus kick) I don't mean to make it sound bad, it's a pretty decent bike, a few small mods and some different tires (pirelli's instead of michelin) and it's starting to work well now. I'm happy with it. With gold valves fitted front and rear, cutting the bars down a bit and setting the front springs a couple of grooves softer, it's turning much better now and doesn't feel quite so big and clumsy. Just need to sort the rider out now 🙄 -
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for the money its just brilliant<br /> -
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Great bike! Tons of power! Suspension is great. Will need heavier spring rate if you are a larger rider. Experiment with gearing for better feel. GYTR tuner is a great investment. Love it!! -
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2012 KTM XC-W, gobs of power! I'm 6'5" and right around 250lbs and this things pull me around like i'm a 180lb rider. I added Factory Connection fork and shock springs and that made a huge difference. My wheels track the ground excellent in trail and desert riding. Love it! -
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Love it so far. -
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Typical Honda both the good and bad. Feels like a nice improvement over my previous '05 CRF250R -
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Love it -
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Sweet bike. 2 stroke Braaaaap -
Picking up a 14 this weekend. Will shock springs from the 10-13 model work?
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first timer shock service, how bad did i eff this up?
uuc328 posted a topic in Motorcycle Suspension
Bought a used 2010 crf250r that had been re-sprung to 4.5, I am working on an OEM Showa shock. I figured while I was in there changing the spring I would freshen up the oil too. First eff up: To get the spring off, the lower shock perch was removed by un screwing the clevis (bottom mount part #10) I did release all the nitrogen prior but I forgot to set the clicker to full soft. No visual damage at this point. In hind sight I now know the proper disassembly should have been to separate the outer ring (#34) pressed up from (#4) to expose the clip. This would have left the bottom mount threaded to the shaft and I could have avoided this fiasco entirely. 100% my fault here Second eff up: At this point I assumed I would need to have the bottom mount loose to get the spring and lower perch back on. I decided I wasn't comfortable going any further so I took the semi disassembled shock to a local shop for the remainder of the service. I can't say for certain everything they did but I requested disassembly, cleaning and inspection for damage then fill and charge the nitrogen res. When I got it back I noticed that the bottom was not fully threaded (this is how I dropped it off) and the clicker was set to full hard. I suspect it was not wise to fully pressurize in this state? 50/50 here? the shop should have known to fully seat the mount prior to charging but I also should have dropped it off that way. Third eff up: Installing the spring I unscrewed the bottom and got sprayed! My bench, wall and entire garage received a coating of oil and gas. 100% my fault Frustrated beyond words and am envisioning having to pony up another $150 for the service again but the shop won't be open until noon on Tuesday to discuss my options. Not to mention I no telling what else got buggered in the process. At this point I decided to inspect for damage where I could. Deflated the bladder, set comp and rebound to full soft and cycled the shaft a few times. I noticed that the rebound clicker will only turn 4 from full soft yet has full range when it is unthreaded from the shock shaft. Does the shock need to be full of oil and nitrogen to have full range on the bottom clicker? I am worried that there is damage further up the line that I cannot see. I have since found several youtube videos for filing and bleeding the oil which seems easy enough at this point. I'm still going to have to take it in to fill the bladder. Thanks for listening. J -
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Really fun cross country/single track bike -
were in the process of rebuilding the forks AND rear shock. I am trying to order a liter of 5wt fork oil, AND a liter of 5wt rear shock oil. are they the same oil or not? is 5wt even the number I want? its for a very beginner rider, 180 lbs. the forks have leaked dry like 2 years ago, and the rear shock is 100% spring. no compression, no rebounding. so its safe to say hes not too picky. many sellers carry the fork oil, but dont carry the rear shock oil. id like to try to get both from 1 seller, 1 package, keeps it simple and cheaper. can I just buy two jugs of 5wt fork oil and use that in everything? or what? rocky mountain atv/mc wont even ship shock fluids to me, period!! "Thank you for your recent order. Unfortunately, we will not be able to ship any OEM parts or name brand items to a freight forwarding, holding company, international address or any residential address where you or someone else may be taking these parts outside of the US. Your OEM parts and brand name items will be removed from your order. If you have non-OEM parts on your order those will ship as scheduled. Your refund will be processed and applied back to your original form of payment within 2-10 business days." -
Been a member on here for while, but never really posted much. I don't really get much time to get on the forums anymore even just to read, but I wanted to share the project I am currently working on. It's been going on for a bit now so I am going to post up some older pics. My phone died and I lost the pics so I had to snag some off my instagram so they may not be the best. I bought this 2008 KX250F off a semi pro racer probably 2 years ago and it sat as I didn't have the time to work on it along with other stuff I was working on. When I bought it, it didn't run, but in general was in good shape. The guy I bought it from was about 150lbs and I am 190 so It definitely needed more than a valve job for me to use. I always had basket case bikes that I bought cheap and fixed just enough to ride and then would end up selling them as I don't have much place to ride. Now I have more places to ride I decided I wanted a nice bike set up for myself and built how I want it from the ground up. So here we go: This is when I picked up the bike: Started breaking the bike down: The reason why the bike doesn't run: Moved the bike from my house to a garage I set up to work in: And took it apart more:
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It's light to push around and pick up lol. Haven't ridden it yet. See comments for more. -
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Great bike -
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Great little bike, very good for the price. -
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Crazy Hard hitting power band -
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Favorite trail bike so far and I've had a few. -
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I ride this on the track and its my backup/loaner trail bike , it has a 13oz flywheel weight and a 3.2 IMS tank -
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a great bike. that make me happy! -
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Amazing vehicle, everything you could possible do to a 125 it has. 134 kit, factory connections, full fmf exhaust, vforce 3 reeds, anodized blue renthal fat bars, Hinson clutch components and cover, Boyesen factory engine cover, gold renthal chain/black sprocket, Motoseat cover, (Excel notako black rims, OEM anodized blue hubs, FULL MGXunlimted graphics kit).Items in parenthesis will be put on over winter rebuild. Pics to come. -
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My trusty old lady
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