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Found 40 results

  1. ThumperTalk

    NGK Iridium IX Racing Spark Plugs

    2 reviews

    The ultimate in the evolution of spark plug technology and performance from the industry leader The iridium electrode is 25% smaller than a platinum electrode, and its just 1/4 the size of a conventional nickel electrode Ultra-small-diameter center electrode reduces voltage requirement and extends ignition system life New metal shell plating has enhanced anticorrosion qualities
  2. nmoysaenko

    Spark plug going bad fast

    Hey I have a 2004 crf250r and I just replaced the spark plug and had an oil change and the spark plug seems to be bad again. Anybody know what can cause a spark plug to go bad so fast I haven't even put an hour on the new plug
  3. fugishima

    kx 125 won't start

    So I was at the track last weekend and started my bike like normal, usually first kick, and rode it down to the other end of the parking lot to warm it up. All of a sudden it died and would not start. I brought it home and pulled the spark plug and it was fouled pretty bad but I held it to the frame, not the engine, and it kept grounding out and not firing the gap. Did i mess up my electronics by grounding it to the frame and not the engine because now it will not spark at all. I am wondering if I should buy a flywheel puller and check the stator. I had the coil checked and it has resistance. I am wondering if I blew out my cdi or what. PLEASE HELP!!!
  4. yzrider383

    Please read my plug

    06 yz250. This plug was taken after a wot 5th gear pull yesterday. The bike feels lean with a kind a deep bog or just throaty sound at any throttle other than when i clutch it and its sceaming. ...but has spooge in the end of the silencer and at the joint between pipe and silencer. I apologize for starting another thread just about my plug but I'm not getting many replies on my help thread. PS this is bone stock jetting (50,n3ew-2,178) at 70°f around 1200 feet elevation. Thanks in advance...
  5. Im new to this site I look forward to any help , ok so I am the new owner of an 06 rm250, my first 250 2 stroke ever and im 38 I am not new to 2 strokes or 4 strokes but never had a 250 2 stroke and I took it out today and what a ripper this thing is , the bike is very clean it has a rekluse clutch asv break away levers ect ect , so my first question is #1 what spark plugs do you recommend ? #2 the clutch engaged slightly even with the lever pulled in , if I start it with the clutch pulled in it jumps a little but not enough to take off and when stopped same thing not enough to take off but I feel it pulling very slightly . #3 mix oil im using klotz , recommend better ? #4 what ratio right now I mixed 40:1 #can anyone decode the crank case number and vin ? I found and old thread and it showed how to decode the vin for the year thanks very much for all your help . I uploaded a couple pics .and thanks 06 rm250 mods showa rear spring showa forks procircut pipe and can gpi radiators and hoses recluse clutch asv levers v force reeds keihin carb renthal bars
  6. question for my new friends.... .....do i have to move or remove the gas tank to remove the spark plug? Or should i be able to squeeze my hand in there and remove the boot and get a socket wrench to remove it without doing any of that?
  7. Xmathewx

    Brand new bike fouling plugs?

    So, I have a 2015 ktm 250sx, it's done 13 hours since new.. For the first 10 hours everything was fine, was running it quite rich for the first 5 hours as I was running it in.. After 10 hours the plug fouled, so I changed it, another outting fouled another and it's just fouled the 3rd one.. It's completely standard, havnt changed anything.. I'm using putoline mx9 at 85ml per 5L which is about 60:1 which the manual says.. When I change the plug, obviously runs perfect all day.. Clean the bike, put it away for the day.. Come to it on my next outting, kicks over first time.. Leave it warming up for 5 mins, all seems fine, I blip the throttle and all of a sudden is just bogs out and dies.. Won't start again untill I change the plug and it's perfect again?.. When the bike is running it is crisp as hell, runs and rides perfect, no bogging no spooge, power all the way through the Rev range it's an absolute animal!
  8. TuGeTu

    XR400R Spark issues

    Greetings from finland to all TT-Forum gods and everyone blessed with knowledge around my probem.. Introducing myself as a noobie here, but not usually with these things Im beginning to be pretty pissed and fed up with this bike(-97 XR400R), since it never really has worked on me. I've owned it 3 years and only driven about 100miles with it. Even though ive spent thousands of hours building it, i never seem to get it right or then a new error occures. Right now im having problem with losing the spark, after the bike has ran for a minute, and even that time im having a struggle to keep it running with the choke on. It spits and coughs and misfires untill it wont run at all, no matter how much you spin the idle screw or try to rev it.. I have eliminated the first issues with carbs, by trying 3 different ones. Now theres BST40 Mikuni, which worked fine before spark issue, if it would start. At this point i have installed a new spark plug and a new ign coil, but seems that its running even worse than before.. Today i opened the flywheel case, to see if there is some damage in the stator or its friend next to the flywheel picking up ign signal( couldn't remember the name of the component) But they look fine to me. Have any of you had any issues with CDI on these or do you have any idea what the hell is wrong with it? I could borrow a multimeter from my pal, to try measure some components, if i just knew what readings to expect and from where? I suppose a few pics would be nice along with the apology of my bad english
  9. Hi everyone, I've got a 2008 WR250F. I've had it for 5 years now. Very reliable, have loved it. Last year I didn't get to ride as much, and I started having problems with fouling plugs. This is my current jetting. Has not changed much in the last few years. Temperature in the area is between 10C and 25C, humidity between 40% and 50%. Main Jet 185 Pilot Jet 42 Jet needle Red, 5th from top Leak Jet 40 Starter Jet 68 I'm running with the snorkel removed, AIS out, YZ fuel screw, FMF Q4 exhaust. I've got the large O'ring on and the JD needle in. I've never taken the AP off the carb. My starting routine is pull out the choke, three throttle twists, then turn it over. Worked for the first 3 years, beautifully. Never once fouled a plug. Last year, I fouled a few plugs (they come out wet), swearing ensued... When I'd take the plugs out the tip to thread resistance was low, < 10 kOhm. Put in a new plug, starts right up. For the last few years, even prior to fouling problems, my fuel screw never really did anything from 0 to 3 turns out. So this year, thinking that last year I was too rich, plus with the lack of fuel screw action, I decided to drop my Pilot jet from 45 to 42. Now, the fuel screw is set nicely at 1 turn out (at about 3C air temp, I have to redo it in the warmer temps), and it actually does something when following William1's procedure. Today when I went out, it was ~ 22 C. Cold starting was poor, and I had to kind of keep it going with the throttle until it was warmed up. Anyway, the day went well, but fouled another plug tonight after an oil change. Any ideas? Maybe my needle is riding too high with clip at 5 from the top? My understanding is that the Pilot and Fuel screw do all the 1/4 turn and below, so for starting that should be all. Gas is brand new, just got it from the station today! I emptied the tank completely last week, checked the petcock, spotless. I disassembled the carb during the winter, cleaned all the ports with carb cleaner, watched the slide gaskets. Usually in the mornings here it's cold enough, so I always use the choke. Even at 20C, I'd still use the choke. Anyway, I'd love for this problem to go away. Right now, it's like I only have one chance to start it, and then if I miss it I'm hooped. Anyway looking forward to hearing some ideas. Thanks in advance! EDIT: The plug fouls maybe 2-3 kicks after the bike appeared to want to start, maybe 5-6 kicks total. Maybe what would also be helpful is some tips in recovering from one of these scenarios. Choke off, throttle at 0%, but what else? My experience so far is that once it reaches that point, only taking the plug out and replacing it will resolve the problem.
  10. BikeLife_ant

    Yamaha YZ125 (2015)


    i Have a 2016 yz125 not a 15 thupertalk hasn't updated it in yet but thats ok! i purchased my 2016 yamaha yz125 brand new from the yamaha dealer a few months back. its my first 2stroke i have ever owned and i absolutely love the bike! i orignally went to pick up a 250 2stroke but they had just sole the last one so i grabbed the last 2016 yz125 at the time. the bike runs great an very strong, even stock. i have never had any problems what so ever an when you get used to a 2smoke there is really nothing you can't take care of. i use yamalube premix at 32.1 ratio an i change my transmission fluid every few rides with yamalube 10w 40. so far i installed a FMF factory fatty pipe with the stock silencer an i just recently installed Vforce 3 reeds and they woke the bike up big time. it sounds great an runs even better. i started mixing my fuel 50% 93 octane an 50% 110 octane leaded and the bike is so much more crispy! this bike is my baby and I'm glad i went with the #BlewCrew lol
  11. Hi This is my first post and I hope I've done it right. I took the spark plug out of my Gilera sc125 and it was a greeny yellow colour. Its a NGK BR9ES,standard is BR8ES. I don't know why it was changed. It has a fuse for the power valve but no other mods. I was hoping someone would know what this means, as everyone I've asked hasn't heard of a green spark plug before. I bought a new plug thats been in it for over 250miles now and when I get a chance I will take it out and see what colour it is. It hasn't affected the performance, I just like to know this sort of thing. Sorry if the picture is crap and it was more greeny is person, my phone is stupid and so is its camera. Thanks
  12. I have had a lot of trouble getting the bike from a dead stop to moving in first gear without massive bog and stalling. Once the bike is rolling, shifting through gears is no problem. I pull the plug after 10 minutes of riding around and its wet and oily. I have repeated this process many times and i keep getting the same results. So i replaced the Spark plug and it fixed the problem for 10 minutes and then it became fouled again. I have adjusted the idle speed and that doesn't seem to help the bike. Does this sound like I need to clean the carb or what other problem could it be? The guy i bought the bike from just put a new top end in and he is running a 20:1 mixture. There is also a lot of black gritty discharge from the exhaust. I'm knew to dirt bikes so any advice helps. Thanks
  13. Alright guys, First off I'd like to say that i am new to posting but not new to TT as i read it all the time at work. Anyhow, Recently i left my muffler plug in my 2008 YZ250 after washing it, and when i took it out riding the other day i forgot that it was left in and kicked the bike about 10 times until realizing that i left it in. Since then the bike has been acting really weird. After starting it for the first time since the muffler plug was taken out it felt very sluggish and the throttle response was so horrible it made me not want to ride. I shut it off after about 2-3 minuets of it running. I put it back in my garage and went on vacation figuring that i would deal with it when i came back. I decided to kick it after a week after being gone and it started right up and ran great like it usually did. So i went to the track the next day and it wouldn't start no matter how many times i kicked it. I even tried to bump start it and that failed. But i did notice that while trying to bump start it, with it in first gear it was extremely hard to push. (yes the clutch was held in all the way...). Sometimes it will turn over for a few seconds and then it red-lines itself for a brief second with no throttle given and then shuts off. Anyways, my thoughts is that maybe a gasket was blown when kicking it with the muffler plug in? Or does anybody else have any ideas or opinions on this would be much appreciated! I am going to tear it down and do a new top end rebuild and hoping that it solves the problem. I didn't know that a little 6 dollar muffler plug could cause so much trouble.
  14. Twice now my spark plug has exploded all ovr my cylinder ruining the bore. First time I changed it from a 155 to 160 jet (Which was stock, eddie provided), and now it did it again. Both times 5th gear around 60-70 mph. Bike doesn't respond to the throttle as well, then completely dies. I'm not sure why it's doing this. I can't keep buying bores trying new things... CR8E Iridium Plug FCR 39MM Carb, Full SSW Pipe, Hotcams Jetting for sealevel 160 main jet 200 main air jt EMP needle clip 3 45 pilot jet no pilot air jet 2.25 turns fuel screw ap link wired delayed 1/2 turn Compression: Single layer gasket, that's 13:1? Higher compression. What the hell is wrong?
  15. dg400sm

    drz spark plug

    just about to do my first plug change at 20,000klms. i bought an ngk cr8e as per what the owners manual says. my question is my new spark plug says NGK R cr8e . is this the right plug? i seem to remember reading somewhere that the R stands for resistor and the owners manual doesn't say anything about NGK R
  16. woodsy94

    Yamaha YZ426F (2002)


    Gotta love the torque of the old 426's
  17. ThumperTalk

    NGK Spark Plugs

    1 review

    Superior construction, longer life, optimum performance
  18. Has anyone had experience using a hotter plug for extended single track or heavy woods riding? For my '01 YZ250, I normally use a BR8ES but for extended single track, I was thinking of changing to a BR7ES. I was hoping to prevent a fouled plug and the fun of trying to change a hot plug on a hot motor in the middle of nowhere. Anyone tried this?
  19. So you have a bike that is not running. Maybe it is a bike that you have had for years and it has just been sitting or it is a bike your looking at for sale but the owner states "ran when parked" meaning, it doesn't run now. As a matter of fact the latter is how you can generally get a great deal on a bike and with this article and video you can take advantage of that non running bikes low price. Typically the reason a bike was running and now isn't is usually fairly simple. Most problems can be traced to the fuel system, probably causes is fuel was left in the system creating a varnish like substance when the lighter elements of the fuel flashed off. This leaves the small passageways clogged or plugged resulting in inconsistent or no fuel flow. There also could be minor ignition issues but usually that is rare, more on that later. Lets get back to basics. Click on the Getting a non running bike running video to see an in depth video of the procedure outlined below: Step 1 Evaluate the bike, is it missing crucial parts for it to run? If not start the dis-assembly for cleaning and inspection this includes the fuel tank itself. If it is missing parts, locate or source the missing parts before going further as this will minimize delays further in the process. Step 2 Fully disassemble the carburetor and fuel shut off. These are the most common places that the problems will originate as well as where most of the debris preventing proper fuel flow and metering will be found. Step 3 Clean, clean, clean, and more cleaning. Carburetor dip is a good idea for the carb body and other related parts. Just remember to remove any rubber or fiber parts as carburetor dip may "eat" or dissolve them. Step 4 While your carburetor parts are soaking check out the ignition components. Replace the spark plug, it is cheap, and will rule out a potentially faulty plug of unknown condition, refer to a service manual for specific testing if you have a "no spark" condition. Most "no spark" conditions can be traced to a kill switch wire grounding out at the handlebar or somewhere along the harness. Step 5 Reassemble the carburetor returning all the settings like the float height, jetting specs, and air/fuel screw (depending on which it has) to the factory specs found in the manual. Re-install the tank and fuel shut off. Attach the fuel lines use clamps when necessary. Fill the tank with a little bit of fuel open the tap and check for leaks and/or a flooding carburetor. Step 6 If the previous steps were done properly attempt to start the bike. Be sure your in neutral and have your hand on the throttle and kill switch for safety so you can shut down the bike should something happen.
  20. My 1999 yz250s spark plug keeps fouling out over and over again. I've asked around and every one keeps saying you're running it too rich (40:1 yamalube) I also heard I need to rejet it. Also air filter is pretty dirty and planning on getting a new 1 tmrw What do y'all experts think?
  21. MountainManiac

    NO timing marks on Flywheel? HELP!

    I was checking my valve clearances and got them back into spec but the bike won't start. I wanted to check the timing and I cannot find any timing marks on the flywheel? Can I get the timing right without them? The bike was running last season and then I couldn't kick it over. Pop started ok. Valves were zeroed out. Lost track of how many turns I did on the crank while trying to get the timing chain back on the in the case.
  22. Ryan Roettger

    91' rm 250 no spark help please!

    hi guys. i got a new to me rm 250 and it has no spark. i tested the stator and it only read 90 on the ohms meter on 200. so i replaced it with one that reads 123 @ 200 and 0.13 on the 20k setting, the coil from the cap to ground read 11.69. not sure how to check the cdi. i am going to test the pick once i figure that out i think i seen a diagram online somewhere. if anyone has any advice or input it would be much appreciated . thanks -ryan
  23. NoMuff2Tuff

    2014 crf250r "no spark"

    As title states a 2014 crf250r with 14.7 hours will not spark or run. I will try and explain each step I took in determining to find the problem so sorry for the long post. In preparation of pulling the motor from the frame to do some motor mods and reprogram computer I wash the bike real good, dried it off then ran the bike for a few minutes which I always do after washing. The next day I removed all the plastic and preceded to disconnect stator and other wire connectors in order to pull the motor. While the motor was out I cleaned out all the wire connectors and made sure they were cleaned before they were re connected. Once motor work was complete, after about a month, it was re installed and all wire connecters were re connected. Tried kicking the bike and no start, pulled the bike and no start. I then removed plug and verified no spark. Thinking the computer may have gotten screwed up after the remap I took it to my buddies Honda shop and installed it on a brand new 14' and the bike fired up and ran fine. Computer good. Now I'm thinking the stator went bad. I borrowed a friends 10' crf250r pulled my stator off and put it on the 10' and bike fired up and ran fine. Stator good. According to the wiring diagram and as for as I know the 10' and 14' basically have the same electrical system except for the computer, coil size, regulator and some connections are different. Next I took my regulator off the 14' hard wired it in because its a little different and the 10' fired up and ran fine. Regulator good. Next I pulled off the condenser, wired it in (different connector) and the 10' ran fine. Condenser good. Next I pulled the coil and plug wire off, grounded it with 1 screw because of size difference and the 10' ran fine. Coil and wire good. Now every major electrical component is showing to be good. Next step I checked the kill switch for a closed circuit, then a open/closed circuit while hitting the stop button and it passed that test. I then checked continuity from just about every wire connector to the computer pins and they all showed continuity. I checked the main frame ground with a ground tester and it showed a good ground. I reconnected all my electrical parts to my 14' and I still can't get a spark, tried the 10' spark plug and still no spark. Put the 10' stator and flywheel on and still no spark. Re pulled all the connections and re connected and looked over the harness for any visual damage and still no FN spark. The only other electrical parts I didn't swap out is the MAP sensor, water temp sensor, TPS sensor and air temp sensor but im not sure that would hold out the bike from sparking ? Even though I checked continuity on the main harness that is really the only thing I didn't swap out. Can a wire show continuity but still break down once voltage is passing through it ? I have never seen anything like this before !!! Im def not an electrical engineer but I have a basic understanding how it works. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated, unless the bike is just possessed!!!!! Again sorry for the long post, I just wanted to show you guys every step I took before you comment.