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Might get a 1999 Yamaha YZ250, and it's gonna be used as a enduro bike. However theres no stator on it since it's been used as a pure dirt bike. Does anyone know if there's a webpage that sells stators for this bike? Or maybe if the electronics from a WR250 work on it if it's the same model year? Also, I'm from Sweden so it's important that the site ships to the EU. Thanks :-)

So I want to fit a Speedo to my stock Honda CRF230F, I know people have fitted the Trail Tech endurance to them but they are a bit pricey so my questions are is there another reliable Speedo or is my best choice to bite the bullet and get the Endurance? My other question is the stock stator for the CRF230F enough to power a Speedo or more specifically a trail tech endurance 2? I fully capable of installing it and splicing the wiring, my question is just can the stock bike support it? Also the Bike does not have a headlight.

I have a 1994 rm 125 and my stator went out. I got the old stator out but in the process I stripped out the 2 Phillips head bolts and had to use channel locks to spin them out. I need to know what size the bolts are so I can replace them. I have looked at 3 different websites with the magneto diagram and it doesn't tell you the sizes or thread pitch. Can anyone help me? And could I put a normal 8mm bolt in it instead?

Alright i'm totally bamboozled right now. I am not getting enough charge going back into the battery. Im only getting 11V-12.6V and I just replaced my stator. I burned up a couple coils in my original by installing a 55/60W bulb in my bike on accident. (I have the stock 30/35W bulb re-installed) After completing static testing everything checks out on my replacement stator. Its putting out the correct ohm readings in the Stator connector and my wires are insulated bc I get not reading on y2ground. The Voltage Regulator/Rectifier is testing correctly at .5 on all the y2y tests and 1.132 on the Red to B/W connecter. I did a dynamic test on the stator too and I was getting 22V AC at idle and it would shoot up to around 70ish volts AC when I gave it some RPMS. (Dont know the exact rpm dont have a tac) Ive checked all fuses in which all are good. All connectors seem to have good connections and I cant find any shorting wires or bad grounds connections. The battery is not the issue either. I need help ASAP please!

Hi! Does anyone know how many ohms the (black+red & brown) wired must have? Mine is 600 omhs,I think it is too much but I have spark , it is repared and I DONT REALLY WANT TO GET THE CDI DAMAGED ! THANKS

So im trying to diagnose a no spark issue on my new to me 2000 DRZ400e. I bought it with this issue. The previous owner replaced the stator with an aftermarket one but couldn't get it to go. When I got the bike I unplugged the 3 yellow wires coming out of the stator and connected a circuit light probe to the pins one at a time and cranked the bike over. The light lit up but no spark out of the plug. Since then I tried again but the light probe doesnt glow on any of the three wires. What could of happend? Is the stator bad. Could it of been installed incorrectly? Is that possible? I dont know much about stators. I also tested the ohms between 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3 but all three tests showed an in spec reading of 0.6 ohms. I also tested the black to white 0.02 ohms and blue to green whitch was also in spec. The stator reads good but i dont get any power out of it

I bought a 2005 crf450x 2 months ago, It has a Lithium batttery and the guy threw in the old battery he had before that. The old battery drains after a 1-2 hr ride and the Lithium Battery drains after 3 hr ride. The voltage is 12.4 while idling; then it only goes to 12.6V when revving to 4,000 RPM ! With the bike turned off it is at 13.4. Should'nt I be getting over 14V at 4000RPM? Additional Info that might provide useful... I installed a new Stator, Rectifier. I have a new wire harness that I will probably install too. Previous owner installed Installed a street legal kit. See the attached schematic. He added a new tail light, f&R brake switches horn, h/L switch and no turn signals. Most adds are labeled except the wire harness coming out of the handlebar switches are far left on drawing. If I am supposed to get over 14V at 4000 RPM but am only getting a .1V or .2V jump where should I look next? Factory harness looks like its in great shape. Thanks ahead of time. pe with now obvious issues.

I have an 1995 RM 125 that keeps burning out stators. I bought it from a friend(who i trust) and he said it ran. It came with 2 stators, one was an electrosport, and the other I'm not sure. I did a top end and it fired up just fine(with the electrosport stator) i broke in the rebuild, but later when i rode it a little harder, it lost all power. Figuring it lost spark, i checked electrical connections, one looked iffy, so i patched it.( not exactly sure what one it was) later, after it cooled down, i rode it again. But after a while, the same thing happened, lost power. I removed the stator cover, and it stunk super bad. I'm a big noob with bikes so, figuring it had just burnt out, i hauled off and bought a new one( another electrosport for $80) and used that(without looking deeper). It had a hard time fitting into the bike, but i managed. This stator lasted 5 minutes before toasting. This time i actually looked at the stator, which showed signs of the flywheel/rotor rubbing on it, as well as the old one. Annoyed, i decided to try the other stator, which seemed a little smaller, and fit way better. But this time, after calmly riding it for 5m, i put it away. When i tried starting it again later, nothing, no spark. Apparently it burnt out as well. The flywheel doesn't move around at all, doesn't feel loose, and the stators seem to be in the correct spot, so why are my stators burning out? Sorry for the crappy post, ive never posted to forums before. There doesn't seem to be anything about my issue anywhere online. Any help appreciated, ask for pictures

I have been dealing with a clutch issue and pulled the stator and flywheel to remove a few clutch components. I am reassembling them now and I was wondering if I need to set the stator at a specific setting in regards to the TDC. The manual I have says nothing on the subject other than alignment the marks on the stator and the casing. I am hoping I did create a new problem while fixing an older one. For clarification, my 2001 YZ250 says basically, align the marks then adjust to 0.007 BTDC (using a dial indicator and rest). I don't know where to set it on the RM 125. I don't imagine it would be the same. Thanks

I have an 1995 RM 125 that keeps burning out stators. I bought it from a friend(who i trust) and he said it ran. It came with 2 stators, one was an electrosport, and the other I'm not sure. I did a top end and it fired up just fine(with the electrosport stator) i broke in the rebuild, but later when i rode it a little harder, it lost all power. Figuring it lost spark, i checked electrical connections, one looked iffy, so i patched it.( not exactly sure what one it was) later, after it cooled down, i rode it again. But after a while, the same thing happened, lost power. I removed the stator cover, and it stunk super bad. I'm a big noob with bikes so, figuring it had just burnt out, i hauled off and bought a new one( another electrosport for $80) and used that(without looking deeper). It had a hard time fitting into the bike, but i managed. This stator lasted 5 minutes before toasting. This time i actually looked at the stator, which showed signs of the flywheel/rotor rubbing on it, as well as the old one. Annoyed, i decided to try the other stator, which seemed a little smaller, and fit way better. But this time, after calmly riding it for 5m, i put it away. When i tried starting it again later, nothing, no spark. Apparently it burnt out as well. The flywheel doesn't move around at all, doesn't feel loose, and the stators seem to be in the correct spot, so why are my stators burning out? Sorry for the crappy post, ive never posted to forums before. There doesn't seem to be anything about my issue anywhere online. Any help appreciated, ask for pictures

Wise DRZ gurus of Thumpertalk (Noble et al), your assistance please with a tricky electrics issue that now result in a NO SPARK condition. I own a Clymer manual, have read every forum post, watched every YouTube video, and stuck my multimeter probe in every orifice to no avail. Please forgive the long post but I don’t want to waste your time making suggestions for things that I have already tried. And no, I do not have a mate who has a DRZ who is happy to lend me his CDI to test. Background: I had to abort my attempt at the Welsh TET when my 30k-mile 2002 DRZ400S (UK), that I have owned since new, started running badly, correctly diagnosed as a camchain issue. I replaced the camchain (it was solid!), changed the ACCT for a MCCT and redid the timing (it had been still running with the cam lobes 90 degrees out!). The charging system wasn’t coping with running a GPS and when I measured the output it was a paltry 12.4V. I inspected the stator and there were a number of broken cable ties and it looked discoloured due to heat so I changed it. I also changed the Reg/Rec for good measure because I bought them as a pair. While I was at it I did the ‘Free Power Mod’ and was delighted to see that the charging system was now pushing 13.8V into the battery. I did a 100-mile test ride and it was like I had a new bike! The tale of woe: I then needed to do a quick dash to the top of Scotland to see my father, who had suffered a stroke. 300 miles into the journey (Perth) the dash started to flash, so I turned off the ancilliaries (GPS) and lights and plugged in a voltmeter to my 12V socket, which confirmed that the system was not charging. At 320 miles (Dalwhinnie) the battery got down to 6-7V and the bike died. On strip, I found that the 20A fuse holder in the ‘Free Power Mod’ had arced and blown the 20A fuse (cheap Halfords crap!). I didn’t have a spare 20A (I had forgotten the spare one in the battery fuse holder), so fitted a 10A into the part melted holder, bumped it and it ran so I pushed on. The 10A blew as soon as I got up to cruising speed, but the bike ran so I kept going. I bought a pack of 20A fuses at Inverness (380 miles) and it ran fine, with 14V going into the battery. I was now at risk of missing the ferry to Orkney so I pushed on hard up the A9. I had left the Voltmeter in, and was surprised to see the value climbing slowly. 14, 15, 16, 17 and then 18V was reached as I sprinted for the port. I knew this couldn’t be good, but didn’t have time to mess about. At 500 miles I needed to stop for a pee, so parked at the top of a hill (I was tired of bump-starting by now). I ignored the ominous smell of sulphur, dismissing it as an ‘agricultural’ smell. I bumped down the hill and after 200 yards the bike started running ragged and then all of a sudden it died violently, the engine stopped and the display went dark. On investigation the battery was at about 300 degrees C and my mercy ride was over. Thanks to the kindness of strangers I did get to see my Dad, but it resulted in a £300 plane ticket home and a 1000-mile round trip in the van to rescue the bike. The battery was toast, so I replaced it. I read that if the Reg/Rec doesn’t have an output it doesn’t like it, and as it clearly was no longer regulating, I replaced it. I replaced the ‘Free Power Mod’ using a much better fuse holder with thicker wire. I bought a new stator in case I had fried it, but resistance checks seemed OK so I held off fitting it. The bike wouldn’t start so I did a spark test and nothing. I replaced the plug – nothing. The only thing left to change was the CDI but “it is highly unlikely to be the CDI” and they are really expensive, so (as I am more mechanically than electrically minded) I read the forums, viewed the videos, bought a Clymer manual and a peak voltage tester and started fault-finding. Most readings were in spec, a couple were a bit off, a couple were a bit weird and the critical one was zero. My findings (I can’t do the stator output test because it doesn’t run): Test (note) [Spec] Reading New battery (fully charged voltage) [12+V] 13.45V Battery (key on) [12+V] 12.87V Battery (lights on) [12+V] 12.15V Sidestand switch Up [0.4-0.6] 600 ???? (diode setting) Sidestand switch Down [1.4-1.5] open circuit ???? Ignition Coil Resistance (Primary) [0.1-1.0 Ohms] 0.3 Ohms Ignition Coil Resistance (Secondary) [12-20 KOhms] 14kOhms Ignition Coil Peak Voltage [>150V] 0 (ZERO) XXXX Pickup Coil Resistance (Blue Green) [390-600 Ohms] 528 Ohms Signal Coil Resistance (Black White) [0.05-0.2 Ohms] 0.2 Ohms Pickup Coil Peak Voltage (Blue Green) [>5V] 2.68V ???? Signal Coil Peak Voltage (Black White) [>1.4V] 0.35V ???? Stator charging coil resistance [0.5-1.25 Ohms] 0.8, 0.8, 0.8 Ohms CDI wires - Big plug White – continuity to coil Black White – continuity to earth Pink (neutral switch) Orange White (Ignition On) 13V (Ignition off) 0.16V ???? Green 180KOhms (to earth) ???? Blue Yellow CDI wires - Small Plug Blue – Green (Pickup Coil) 550 Ohms Black - White (Signal Coil) Continuity Neutral Switch Blue/Black White (neutral) continuity. Neutral Switch Blue/Black White (in gear) open circuit Battery Voltage was a little low, so I charged it. I also guessed that I had fried the coil, so I replaced it – still no spark so re-tested: New battery (fully charged voltage) [12+V] 13.47V Battery (key on) [12+V] 13.3V Battery (lights on) [12+V] 12.7V (but goes down fast!) Ignition Coil Resistance (Primary) [0.1-1.0 Ohms] 0.6 Ohms Ignition Coil Resistance (Secondary) [12-20 KOhms] 16kOhms Ignition Coil Peak Voltage [>150V] 0 (ZERO) XXXX The obvious problem causing no spark is the lack of 150+V coming out of the coil. Slightly disturbing was the fact that the Pickup Coil Peak Voltage (Blue Green) output was half the spec [2.68V instead of >5V] and the Signal Coil Peak Voltage (Black White) was a quarter of spec [0.35V instead of >1.4V] but the bike had run happily off this stator. ???? But, following the logic that “it is usually the stator”, I changed it to another one (because I assumed that I had fried it along with everything else, and repeated the testing: New battery (fully charged voltage) [12+V] 13.6V Battery (key on) [12+V] 13.5V Battery (lights on) [12+V] 12.45V (but goes down fast) Ignition Coil Resistance (Primary) [0.1-1.0 Ohms] 0.7 Ohms Ignition Coil Resistance (Secondary) [12-20 KOhms] 14kOhms Ignition Coil Peak Voltage [>150V] 0 (ZERO) XXXX Pickup Coil Resistance (Blue Green) [390-600 Ohms] 538 Ohms Signal Coil Resistance (Black White) [0.05-0.2 Ohms] 0.2 Ohms Pickup Coil Peak Voltage (Blue Green) [>5V] 3.59V ???? Signal Coil Peak Voltage (Black White) [>1.4V] 0.45V ???? Stator charging coil resistance [0.5-1.25 Ohms] 0.9, 0.9, 0.9 Ohms CDI wires - Big plug White (Ignition Coil) – continuity to coil Black White (Earth) – continuity to earth Pink (neutral switch) Orange White (Start Switch) Ignition On) 13V (Ignition off) 0.01V ???? Green (Sidestand switch Sidestand relay) Blue -Yellow (TPS) 4.81KOhms Please help. Why does it not spark? Why is there no output from my coil(s)? I know the Pickup and Signal coil peak voltage is low, but it ran happily off the stator at those outputs before. It can’t be the CDI, can it? Could it be the CDI (rare, I know)? What have I missed? What am I missing? After 20+ years I am somewhat attached to the old girl, and she is a willing tryer despite the abuse and neglect I have given her over the years. I feel guilty but I have been looking at other bikes on Autotrader and eBay, but I would prefer to bring her back to life…

Hi all, Just ordered replacement lighting charging coil and voltage regulator for my '82 TS125ERX but there's a three week delay on shipping as the coil is coming from Thailand to UK. I want to run the bike and check for pinking, can anyone tell me will this bike start and run with the battery disconnected. If so what's the procedure? Should I just leave the live off and insulate the connector or connect the battery earth lead to the battery live lead to complete the circuit? Cheers,

Hey All, Just got my Tusk enduro lighting kit and realized it didn't include a battery. The 300XC doesn't come with battery, headlight, etc. So I figured I may just bite the bullet and draw stator power to run a battery for the kit. Fairly certain is pushes about 100W factory. I have an iridescant bulb headlight, and everything else is LED. Anyone have experience with this who could lend some advice or know if I'll need a regulator? Thanks. (Will keep post updated with pics)

Hi all. I recently purchased a Tao DBX1 140cc pitbike. Im attempting to add lights to it and I have a question about the pin out on the stator. From what I've found I should be tapping into the yellow which is open and not used. On this particular model or year there seems to be 2 yellows. Does anyone have an idea which is which or where I could find more info? Thanks!

So I just did a bunch of seasonal stuff to my DRZ 400 (oil, filters, plug, carb rebuild, etc...) Bike ran fine before I started the maintenance. After I swapped the stock plug for the Iridium version the bike wouldn't stay idling so I swapped back to a new basic plug, same issue. Thought maybe all the maintenance caused something to clog the carb. Went ahead and rebuilt it. Same issue. Went on here for some diagnostic help. Saw a discussion that mentioned unplugging the 3 yellow wires to the stator. That worked, so what does that mean. What should I be doing next and what part may I need to replace? Any type of help here would be appreciated. Photos and step by step for dummies is a plus.

Recently the chain on my ssr 125 popped off, broke the case, and got to a bracket that is part of the stator. Through the grey flywheel I can see six coils, but when I look up ssr125 stator replacements, it shows stators with two coils, so I’m confused as to what to buy. I was guessing that the a six coil stator like this- https://www.amazon.com/JCMOTO-Poles-Magneto-Stator-Motocross/dp/B01N3VWR1D would work and is a safer bet but I’m not sure. If you guys could leave links to static’s that’d help or tell me if this one would work-Thanks!

I'm having trouble finding wiring diagrams for my 1990 xr600r. The diagrams that I have found don't seem to be for my exact year model since there are slight differences. The one I have pictured is the closest one I can find but the only difference is my bike has a 3 wire stator and the diagram is showing a 2 wire stator. In addition to the red/black wire and blue wire, my stator has a white wire and I have no idea where it is supposed to go. Since owning the bike the wiring has always been a bit of a rats nest so I'm trying to start over from square 1 to sort out my issues. I've removed the entire lighting harness and I'm only focusing on the ignition system just to simplify things for now. I was thinking the extra white wire may be a ground but I don't want to speculate and burn something up. I'm also wondering if my stator is an aftermarket since it has the 3 wires instead of 2, I have the wires picture below, maybe someone out there will be able to tell I measured the voltage off each lead while bike idled and this is what I got out of each various combination. White to frame ground - 5v AC Blue to frame ground -10v AC White to blue - 18v AC While touching the white wire directly to frame and measuring voltage from the Blue I got 20v Ac and there was no arcing or sparks while I struck the white against frame ground I read resistance on the red/black to ground and it was 600ohms (I think spec is about 230ish-400. I also have weak spark so I'm thinking the stator is going bad, unless the white wire has something to do with it being weak. The only way I can get the bike to start is to smash the spark gap really really small, and the bike runs good like that until above 3/4 throttle and then it sputters and backfires I'm assuming due to the spark being too small to ignite the mixture. Just cleaned the carb so that shouldn't be the sputtering issue. And I cannot start the bike with the plug gap in spec. It's also visually weak when kicking the bike with the plug out, compared to my ktm525 spark, it's hardly much spark at all.

Has anybody bought any ignition components from these guys? Stator, Flywheel, CDI, Coil, Voltage Regulator, etc? https://www.hpi.be/index.php If so, did you buy direct -or- from one of their dealers state side? Thinking about buying a fully programmable setup for my project bike.

Good afternoon everyone, im looking to upgrade the stator in my 2018 yz450f to support a headlight, tail light, etc for a street legal supermoto build. I bought the bike used with the baja designs squadron pro light already installed, problem is, the stock stator is only 75W which dosent provide enough power to run the light for a long period of time, (the battery is drained instead of being charged and the headlight dims and flickers after 15 minutes of riding) my idea has been to replace the stock stator with the higher output stator from a 2018 yz450fx, im just wary of buying it because i have no clue if it will fit, and it could end up being $200+ down the drain, as far as i know both motors are the same with just a wider ratio in the transmission, but also the flywheel engine cover over the stator is different on the yz450fx than the yz450f, i assume for a heavier flywheel. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Hey guys! Quick question on my left side crank case (stator side). After my rides if you pull the cover off I am finding gear oil. Which shouldn’t be there. I am not sure if it is coming from or could come from the clutch arm or what seems to be a wheep hole? See pictures and let me know if any of you have ran into the same problem, and how you fixed it. All info would be greatly appreciated. - Jarod

1992 pw80. Please help, i am out of ideas. It stopped firing so i tried the ignition coil on another bike pw50, and it worked so i figured it was ok and the pw50 coil didn't fire on the pw80. The stator resistance seemed wrong so put in a new yamaha one. No spark. Figured must be CDI so got a new yamaha one. No spark. Cleaned the flywheel. Sanded the ground connections. Stator resisance good, resistance to ground good. Has new wires which came with the new parts. Has the kill switch disconnected. This model has no pickup coil or seperate charging coil so stator, cdi, and ignition coil is the whole system. Checked the ignition coil resistance and was out of spec (based on my repair manual from yamaha)so got a new yamaha one. Still no spark and the new coil has the same resistance as the old one. So now i am back to thinking it is not a problem with the ignition coil. Could the gap between the stator and flywheel be too large? doesn't look like it can be checked or changed. Could the plate holding the stator get bent? The only thing i know to do now is get another bike that fires and change the stator plate or flywheel. Doesn't look like those are available for the 1992 model. It has me baffled. Anyone got any comments, other than i got more in it than it is worth? And it should be junked? one other thing, after checking the resistance values it will make one weak spark, and only one. I think the capacitor is getting some charge from the volt meter and that causes the single spark when it gets the discharge signal when being kicked over. Ideas anyone? Thanks.

My bike has had problems when cold since I bought it a couple of months ago, but now runs fine for about five mins before it starts to splutter and won’t run above an idle- if I ride very slowly then it goes again but only for a short time. I have drained the tank, cleaned the carby and added some raw alcohol to fix any water in the tank but the problem is getting worse. The battery is not new but starts the bike without too much trouble- apparently a flat battery causes a similar problem to what I’m experiencing. I’m about to pull the flywheel cover off to inspect the stator but I have heard that the ignition key switch on Australian models can play up like a chook in a wombat hole- any ideas?

Why is it ok for ac stator to share chassis ground with dc/battery charging system in some cases? Im not sure if this is a 3 phase or single phase stator, or really anything about stators except the basic principles of electromagnetic conduction. My thought process is with AC stator 200 watts to chassis ground that it would maybe fry the battery from the dc ground to the negative terminal on the battery. And then a lower watt stock/oem stator would be not enough to worry about. Again i have no idea. Just wondering as i would like to wire my own bike and its super interesting. For me anyways. So Why is it ok in some cases for ac stator to share chassis ground with dc/battery charging system?

Hey I need some mechanical help from someone please. I have an old 2002 TT-R225 that I bought for my son to learn to ride on and ever since I bought it, well over a year ago it has never been right. When we first got it, it would ride choppy and the exhaust pipe would get cherry red, so I took it to a mechanic (friend of a friend) who cleaned out the carb and tuned it all up for me and stated it was in good working order. My buddy and I took it to the mountains and of course it didn't ride right. Lucky for us there was a mechanic up there who checked out the electrical and said the Stator was bad and needed to be replaced, so I took it back to the other mechanic and he replaced the stator and gave it a thumbs up. Went to ride it and surprise, surprise, it still wasn't right as it pops and sputters when you give it gas and didn't go more than 10 miles an hour. This time I took it to another mechanic who works on my other friends bike that he races hoping to get better results, like the first mechanic he took the carb apart and cleaned it out and replaced a few broken parts and jets. Gave it a thumbs up. Both he and my friend rode it and said it was good to go. I went and picked it up this weekend and to no surprise, when I rode it, it wasn't right. My friend was dumb founded. So here is the thing and my questions. If I am going down hill, or even on a straight away, it feels fine, but as soon as there is an incline or I give it too much gas it starts to sputter and pop and looses power. If I very very slowly give it gas it will get up to speed, but as soon as I give it too much or too fast it sputters, pops, and acts stupid. Also when I turn it off, it always shuts down with a loud pop out the exhaust. I am of the thought that this is no longer a carb issue but rather something else isn't tuned properly. With my limited knowledge it feels to me that the spark isn't hitting at the right time, or that the throttle is bad. Is it possible that when the Stator was replaced, it wasn't tuned or timed properly??? Anyone have any thoughts because at this point my wife wants me to just sell it, but I don't want to simply on principal now, LOL. Either my son is going to learn how to ride on this bike, or I am going to learn to work on motorcycle engines on this bike, but either way I dont see me selling it until I conquer what's wrong with it. Thanks.

Hi! Does anyone know how many ohms the (black+red & brown) wired must have? Mine is 600 omhs,I think it is too much but I have spark , it is repared and I DONT REALLY WANT TO GET THE CDI DAMAGED ! THANKS