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Found 12 results

  1. I searched and found lots of threads about getting the races out of the frame, but what's the best method of getting the bottom steering stem bearing off of the steering stem?
  2. em8691

    Suzuki DR-Z400S (2003)

    0 comments

    This bike has come along way from the stock POS Suzuki puts out, but really a solid mild bike turned into a ROCK SOLID fire breathing monster! I'm sure that I left some stuff out but it's been fun transforming this bike into something that I'm proud to own, and a big THANK YOU to all here at THUMPERTALK for helping me make this bike happen! Eric ps...MORE pics to come Of course I listed all my mods without using the "add mod" option. SHOOT!!! too late now, well here they are... CW 434 big bore Hot Cams Stage 2 intake and exhaust E header pipe w/ FMF Q exhaust FCR MX 39 carb ThumperTalk MCCT Free powre mod Shoria LFX14A2-BS12 battery (210 CCA!) Kickstart (just because) ThumperTalk Case covers (before they were "branded") IMS +1 shift lever dr650 clutch arm lever(shorter cable pull) IMS pro SS foot pegs Clarke 3.9 neutral tank Pingel petcock SSW short pull throttle tube w/ single cable ProTaper Pastrana FMX 1 1/8 bars w/ pillow top grips Zeta triple clamp w/tall risers Cycra probend handgaurds w/ Zeta inter-grated turn signals Acerbis Cyclops headlight Acerbis plasticsPoli-Sport plastics WER steering stabilizer Happy Trail skid plate Race Tech Gold valves GR-2 Race Tech .54 fork springs Race Tech 6.0 shock spring Topar rear disc guard KTM fork guard mod Galfer SS front and rear brake lines Galfer front wave rotor (18" 21" set up) Shinko Golden Boy 244 DOT trail tires (18" 21" set up) Michelin HD tubes Warp 9 SM wheel set w/ Conti force SM 120/70/17 150/70/17 Kytech bilet rear rack Happy Trail pannier racks Pazoma levers Unibiker radiator guards Silicone radiator hoses Pivot Works wheel bearings Pivot works suspension bearings Seal Savers fork portectors DRC edge tail light flush mount rear turn signals
  3. therealjuggernaut

    Lower Steering Stem Bearing Removal Tip

    Having to replace the stem bearings on my ancient (1999) YZ400F turned into a significant effort due to the fact the lower bearing seemed not to want to be taken off the bike. I did a bunch of research and heard everything from, weaken the bearing with a dremel (or an angle grinder) and brake the bearing with a chisel to pry it off with 2 screw drivers. Both of these methods tend to damage the stem or the lower triple clamp so weren't really an option. Here's the method I used, first I cut the outer bearing cage with a set of dikes, then removed all the neddle rollers and set them aside. At this point I cleaned up the remaining inner race and triple clamp (to avoid the complaints from the wife for the next step). Then I dropped the lower clamp and stem in the freezer for the night. The next morning I broke out my small propane torch and warmed the bearing remenants up just a bit, the good news here is since the whole assembly is cold the stem underneath the bearing begins to cool back off. And that is the magic window. The bearing is warmer than the stem, I just took a flat blade screw driver and a hammer and tapped on the inner race until it popped off. Take your time (it took me a few warming and tapping cycles to get it fully off). The lower clamp isn't damaged and it's all ready for the new seal and bearing. Now time to press fit the new one, I found a similar process for that job that involves the freezer as well. It's actually where I got the idea for the removal.
  4. ZeeHulk

    Steering stem bearing

    I busted off my forks and everything. Top yokes off. The bottom yoke will no slide out of the frame? It's an 01 rm 125. What am I missing? Front
  5. I recently did my first set of steering stem bearings this last weekend. IT WAS HARD, especially to get the races out. Here is a mock up of a cut away steering stem if you were looking at it fron the front of the bike: I researched every old thread on TT and most said to do the brass punch way: (you hammer at the punch on the lip of the race, all of the way around, til it gives way) But after about 3-4hrs of trying this I was sick of the punch slipping off the race, I tried cutting the race off with a dremil but that just caused frustration and it was highly likely that i would score the inside of the head tube. The other way i found on here that would most likely work, but i did not get the oppertunity to try was running a ARC, MIG or TIG bead along the face of the old race and it will supposedly drop out when the weld cools because of the contraction when the weld cools down. NONE OF THESE WORKED FOR ME! So i set out to develop my own method which i have not seen on TT yet: You will need: >Steel pipe (1-1.5ft in length) (needs to fit inside of your head tube with about an 1/8" play on either side, does not need to be exact at all) >Metal punch, chisel or tapered piece of metal (i prefer a chisel) >Hammer >Penetrating fluid (optional, helps though) THIS WILL ONLY WORK IF YOU HAVE AT LEAST A SMALL LIP!! DONT TRY UNLESS YOU CAN FEEL AT LEASET A TINY BIT OF A LIP!! 90% of bikes do have a lip. Spray Penetrating Fluid around the part of the race that contacts the stem. Insert the pipe so that about the same amount is sticking out on either side of the end of the head tube. Move pipe over to one side of head tube. Jam chisel or tapered metal next to pipe and hammer in so it is VERY snug. Hammer oposite side of pipe and it should drive right out!! Heres a pic to demonstrate: This took me less than 5 minutes to do both, just repeat the other way for the top race, a very easy process.
  6. Ok guys, add one more to the list of riders attempting the USD fork swap to an XR frame. Quite a bit of research here on TT and ebay hunting brought me a pretty good deal on a set of forks, triples, and stem from a 00' CR 250. There are a few different options for adapting CR style forks to an XR. Bushings for upper and lower CR triples can be made to allow use of the stock XR stem. Specialty bearings can also be purchased to allow use of the stock CR stem in the XR neck. And finally what seems to be the most common; modification of the stock CR stem to allow use of XR sized bearings. I obviously chose to pursue the third option for a few reasons, the most prominent of which is serviceability. I wanted to keep as many wear items at possible as stock parts. This has two advantages; availability and price of replacement parts. $45 dollar a pop "specialty" thin section tapered bearings don't sound too appealing especially when being used on a 12 year old dirtbike. So now we can get to the meat of the issue; modification of the CR stem. I should begin by saying that i am NOT a draftsman. I've taken a few classes on engineering measurements but am far from an expert and probably only mildly proficient reverse modeling components. With that said, the first order of business was comparing an XR stem and bearings to a CR stem and bearings. Shown below. A little closer look at the XR setup. And the CR setup. Now to get out the calipers and model up the stock CR piece. I used a cheaper set of calipers and suspect their tolerance is +/- .01mm. Good enough for gov'ment work though! All dimensions in millimeters. Now to modify the CR stem to work with the XR bearings while remaining compatible with CR triple trees. There are a few things to say about why i did some things the way i did but most of the thoughts are included in the notes section of the drawing. With a resized stem we run into the problem of mounting the top triple clamp. The hole is too large for the stem. An insert bushing must be made to resize the hole in the clamp. Finally what the stem and bushing look like together. Last one. The difference in how the top triple clamp is located on the stem. The CR is equipped with a chamfer that provides a stop for the tree while the XR's triple appears to be limited only by the threads for the castle nut. So... would like to hear your opinions on the execution of the stem modification and bushing. I think having these drawings will make it simpler to have the modifications performed as opposed to asking the machinist to completely reverse engineer the part him/herself. And a final query: Anyone know the thread callout for the two threaded portion of a stock XR steering stem? My drawings show the outside diameter of the threaded portions and i have a cheap plastic pitch gauge that tells me a pitch of 1.0 but i am looking for something more concrete than what i have. Thanks for your thoughts and opinions.
  7. so i bring in 2 triple clamps with steering stems in them and ask the guy at the service department what it would cost to press them out. He tells me he'll just tip the mechanic $20. Great, but when i get home i found out he had cut my bearings off. I called and they said that the service manual says to, but they'll cut me a deal and give me the bearing for $30 instead of $50. what so you guys think? is it possible to remove without cutting the bearing off? should i talk to the manager? I dont want to get this guy in trouble, but i think it could have been removed without cutting the bearing, and spending $50.
  8. Someone else has probably already done what I am about to describe , but I did a search and could not find any sign of it having been posted before. I recently found it necessary to replace the steering head bearings in my DR650. I encountered no problems whatsoever until it was time to remove the old bearing races from inside the steering head. No amount of prying worked and my longest punch was too short to stick out the opposite end of the steering head so I could drive them out. I remembered that in one of my tool catalogs I had seen very nice looking $30 (plus shipping) "special" tool which was specifically designed for the task at hand. I will try to describe this tool for those who may not have seen one: It consists of a length of what appears to be aluminum tubing about 1” in diameter and maybe 18” long. About a 6” length of the tubing at one end of the tool is split longitudinally into four sort of springy “fingers”. The other end of the tool is closed and is designed to be hit by a hammer. As the tool is passed solid-end-first though a steering head, the “fingers” compress and then when they have passed by the bearing race they sort of snap against the inside surface of the steering head, allowing them to serve as four points of contact with the back side of the bearing race. Once the fingers are in place, simply whacking the other end of the tool with a hammer causes the bearing race to pop out the end of the steering head just as easy as you please. Well, the bottom line is, I saved myself $30 plus shipping by making a very similar device for myself out of a piece of scrap ¾” galvanized steel electrical conduit. It took about ten minutes to cut an 18” length of conduit and then split about 6” of one end into 4 little springy "fingers" using a cut-off wheel on a Dremel Tool. I filed the rough edges off and wrapped a duct tape “band-aid” around the end of each finger so as to avoid scratching the inside of my steering head, and gave it a try. It took only one solid hit from a hammer on the end of the conduit to remove each bearing race and I was in business. It could not have been any easier. That little piece of scrap electrical conduit now resides in my “special tools” drawer and I anticipate being able to use it on almost any of my bikes.
  9. Hi guys, I have been looking over the steering stem topics from as far back as 2009 and found them to answer 90% of my questions. and also found a nice service topic for them as well. I have just a couple more concerns, which I probably should have asked about earlier to the good folk of TT. Here goes. I am replacing my bearings with a Pivot Works kit for my 2004 CRF250R. This is my first time for me as I just bought the bike this year and was ironically told the whole front end was just serviced before I got it (turned out to be false), so the steering stem was the only thing I didn't touch. A couple of my friends said to simply cut the old bearing off instead of taking it to a machine shop to press them out and press the new ones on. They say sometimes the automotive friendly machine shop dudes will actually damage the stem with their press, so they prefer to cut. Does that sound accurate? I would imagine they would have to apply many tons of pressure to do so. If I cut them off, would it be safe to then use the old race and hammer the bottom bearing all the way down? Saw other topics speaking of heating the bearing and freezing the stem. CLIFF NOTES: Can I cut off my lower bearing and then hammer a new one on? Thanks in advance! Already missed a nice ride this weekend, want to fix the bike back up tomorrow and take the day off.
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