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Found 472 results

  1. Bought a used 2010 crf250r that had been re-sprung to 4.5, I am working on an OEM Showa shock. I figured while I was in there changing the spring I would freshen up the oil too. First eff up: To get the spring off, the lower shock perch was removed by un screwing the clevis (bottom mount part #10) I did release all the nitrogen prior but I forgot to set the clicker to full soft. No visual damage at this point. In hind sight I now know the proper disassembly should have been to separate the outer ring (#34) pressed up from (#4) to expose the clip. This would have left the bottom mount threaded to the shaft and I could have avoided this fiasco entirely. 100% my fault here Second eff up: At this point I assumed I would need to have the bottom mount loose to get the spring and lower perch back on. I decided I wasn't comfortable going any further so I took the semi disassembled shock to a local shop for the remainder of the service. I can't say for certain everything they did but I requested disassembly, cleaning and inspection for damage then fill and charge the nitrogen res. When I got it back I noticed that the bottom was not fully threaded (this is how I dropped it off) and the clicker was set to full hard. I suspect it was not wise to fully pressurize in this state? 50/50 here? the shop should have known to fully seat the mount prior to charging but I also should have dropped it off that way. Third eff up: Installing the spring I unscrewed the bottom and got sprayed! My bench, wall and entire garage received a coating of oil and gas. 100% my fault Frustrated beyond words and am envisioning having to pony up another $150 for the service again but the shop won't be open until noon on Tuesday to discuss my options. Not to mention I no telling what else got buggered in the process. At this point I decided to inspect for damage where I could. Deflated the bladder, set comp and rebound to full soft and cycled the shaft a few times. I noticed that the rebound clicker will only turn 4 from full soft yet has full range when it is unthreaded from the shock shaft. Does the shock need to be full of oil and nitrogen to have full range on the bottom clicker? I am worried that there is damage further up the line that I cannot see. I have since found several youtube videos for filing and bleeding the oil which seems easy enough at this point. I'm still going to have to take it in to fill the bladder. Thanks for listening. J
  2. BannerUp

    Set Your Sag

    Race sag is the distance the suspension sags under the combined weight of the bike and rider from its fully extended (topped out, no load) position. If your race sag is correct, your suspension is in the middle of its range, where it can handle the widest range of riding conditions without topping or bottoming out. For most riders, a race sag of 90-100 mm translates to the correct preload for dynamic conditions. Static sag is the distance the suspension sags under the bikes weight alone, without a rider, from its fully extended position. Once you get your race sag correct, the static sag will tell you whether or not you have the correct spring for your riding weight. So always check static sag after setting your race sag, because the preload adjustment affects both. STEP 1 => Put your bike on a stand, and measure the vertical distance from the rear axle to a spot on the rear fender. Record this value as M0… STEP 2 => Take your bike off the stand, put on your riding gear, take a standing position, and measure again. Record this value as M1… STEP 3 => Subtract M1 from M0… this is your race sag. If it’s between 90 and 100mm, skip to Step 5. If not, put your bike on a stand, lubricate the threads on the body of the shock, and proceed to Step 4. STEP 4 => If your race sag in Step 3 was significantly less than 90 mm, decrease the preload by moving the rings up the shock body (ccw). If it’s significantly more than 100 mm, increase preload by moving rings down shock body (cw)… Repeat Steps 2 through 4 until race sag is between 90 and 100mm, then continue with Step 5. STEP 5 => With your race sag now correct, and your bike off the stand, measure again, but this time with the bike under its own weight. Record this value as M2… STEP 6 => Subtract M2 from M0… this is your static sag. If it’s between 25 and 35mm, your preload and spring rate are correct. Take your bike out for a test ride, then come back to this forum, and do “Adjust Your Dampening.” If your static sag is not between 25 and 35mm, proceed to Step 7… STEP 7 => If your static sag is less than 25 mm with the correct race sag, your spring is probably too soft for your riding weight. What happened is this: to get your race sag correct, you set the preload higher than it would have been with the correct (stiffer) spring. So the bike sags less than the recommended value under its own weight. If your static sag is more than 35mm with the correct race sag, your spring is probably too stiff for your riding weight. What happened is this: to get your race sag correct, you set the preload lower than it would have been with the correct (softer) spring. So the bike sags more than the recommended value under its own weight. In either case, go to www.racetech.com, and checkout the recommended spring rates for your bike and riding weight. Buy the spring and install it, then recheck your race and static sag, and adjust as necessary. When you’re done, get in touch -- we’ll go for a ride…
  3. 1 review

    Converts stock OEM floating piston with convention bladder system found on other bikes Greatly reduces friction caused by the stock floating piston Increases volume, giving the shock a plusher, more linear feel Greatly increases dampening consistency and life of the shock, reducing early wear
  4. dcruthers

    Honda CRF250L (2014)

    0 comments

    Just picked this up for my daughter. She loves it
  5. DEATH_INC.

    Husqvarna TXC 450 (2010)

    0 comments

    Actually a 2009 model. Not a bad machine. Bad bits; radiators are easy to damage, even with 'gaurds'. Suspension is pretty average, stock. Suspension linkage needs greasing more than average due to a bad seal design. A bit heavy, and not real nimble. Good bits; Tons of power, easy to work on. E-start (plus kick) I don't mean to make it sound bad, it's a pretty decent bike, a few small mods and some different tires (pirelli's instead of michelin) and it's starting to work well now. I'm happy with it. With gold valves fitted front and rear, cutting the bars down a bit and setting the front springs a couple of grooves softer, it's turning much better now and doesn't feel quite so big and clumsy. Just need to sort the rider out now
  6. oxfordshire

    Honda CRF250L (2015)

    0 comments

    for the money its just brilliant<br />
  7. jeff langlois

    Suzuki RMZ450 (2013)

    0 comments

    haven't ridden it yet, just picked it up! last owner liked it enough to buy a 2016..
  8. mrport6793

    Suzuki DR-Z400S (2012)

    0 comments

    Love it.
  9. Mayt13

    Honda XR650L (1994)

    0 comments

    Awesome, with a few upgrades a really killer platform. Despite my Supermoto aspirations, I'm a big fan of the L's air cooling and electric start over the more powerful R. So far -Desert Tank -FMF full Exhaust -Pro-taper Bars -Performance rear shock -Custom Baja cage (more similar to stunt cage) Soon to be installed (already purchased) -Kenhin FRC MX flatslide pumper carb (41mm) -4.8 springs & 15w fork oil Hopefully mods to come -Fork Brace -Ducati 999 oil cooler -Beringer Brakes -Steel braided brake lines
  10. nvrider

    KTM 250 XC-F (2011)

    0 comments

    love this bike! I use it for the track and off road. perfect for me at my current speed.
  11. Aussie CRFX Rider

    KTM 500 EXC (2015)

    0 comments

    Great power<br />Light<br />Suspension needs work
  12. Jordan.Brock96

    Honda XR200R (1993)

    0 comments

    Solid and Reliable bike, as long as you treat the bike well. 6 Gears and lots of torque make it perfect for trails. It will carry a 6'0" 230lb guy through the woods without problem or stall.
  13. Chadillac801

    KTM 500 XC-W (2012)

    0 comments

    2012 KTM XC-W, gobs of power! I'm 6'5" and right around 250lbs and this things pull me around like i'm a 180lb rider. I added Factory Connection fork and shock springs and that made a huge difference. My wheels track the ground excellent in trail and desert riding. Love it!
  14. rungunner

    Yamaha MX250 (1974)

    0 comments

    The old days !!
  15. sxf505spicolli

    KTM 505 SX-F (2008)

    0 comments

    Love it
  16. PcBuilder14

    Honda CRF250L (2014)

    0 comments

    First bike. Still learning, but I think it's perfect for a beginner like me.
  17. ridinblind

    Honda CRF250L (2014)

    0 comments

    This is my first dirt bike after many years on crotch rockets so Im still learning the dirt ropes but I do love this bike.
  18. bobbyfoxx

    Kawasaki KX450F (2013)

    0 comments

    Stock is pretty good...still doesn't turn but is far better than previous gen...great motor...forks not very good...fit and finish is better than previous years too
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