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Found 335 results

  1. As the subject says, is the standard suspension up to par with what for example KTM is putting out now? Or should I plan on getting something like Fox or RG3... Boy rides MX
  2. lowering

    As the title suggests, I'm looking into the possibility of getting on an RM125 with the caveat being my height. At 5'2-5'3, the stock seat height is way too high on an '03 (37" or so). Are there any vertically challenged folks riding this bike? I saw koubalink has a lowering link that drops the rear 1.25" which can be used in conjunction with a shaved seat (1.5-2") which may be enough. Is there anything else that can be done on the cheap? I found one on CL for $1,500 that looks to be in pretty good shape.
  3. I just dented the sh*t out of my fork tube and the seals were already blown on my 2007 kx250f, so I'm looking for aftermarket suspension suggestions. also someone told me the 2017 kx250f forks will fit my bike, has anyone done this? Thanks
  4. So I purchased a new Beta 300RR recently, and I think the bike handles amazingly well. I just can't seem to figure out the harshness in the stroke when going over roots and trail trash. Played with the clickers and it made no difference. Its brutal in 2nd/3rd gear. I don't think I am gripping to hard, but a certain trail I ride has a 30 foot patch of hard wood roots about 1-3" in diameter, space 4-5" apart and it is brutal on my hands and arms. I am coming off a yz250x and have ridden this trail with that bike with no problems what so ever. Current settings Springs front and rear stock Weight 185 Free sag 615mm Static 577mm Rider 510mm Race sag naked is 105mm Forks are 16 out comp and 10 our rebound Shock is 15 out on hi/lo and rebound thanks!
  5. Hello. So ive always stalked this page but this is my first post. I recently just bought a 2002 xr100 and the thing is great. I wanted to beef up the suspension so i picked up and installed the BBR front springs and rear shock. Rear shock was a b**** to install myself but it got done. However, the front springs are were im finding an issue. Theu were easy to install, and i added 15w belray fork oil. The bbr springs were about an inch bigger and required some compression to close the fork cap. The front feels stiffer however, it now makes a loud CHUNK when going off jumps or bumps. I dont know much about the science about suspension but id assume The rebound is too fast? Ive looked into and ive heard different things, such as, changing the oil to 20w, (which i will do next) cuting some of the spring off and adding a pvc spacer. I plan to minimoto this xr100 and abuse this bike...but not willing to pay top dollar. What can i do? Does anyone have any idea? Thanks in advance.
  6. Time Left: 8 days and 21 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Lightly used heavy rate spring for most MX bikes. Race Tech Part Number is SRSP622860. Please check Race Tech's website and verify fitment before you buy. I won't know if this will fit your specific bike or not, so please do your research.

    $60.00

  7. I'm a long time reader and member (member since May 9, 2009) and this is my first question. I want to change the valving of my 2016 Yamaha YZ250F shock absorber. My main goal is to speed up the rebound. My rebound clicker is almost all the way out, and it feels like the high speed rebound damping is not what I like. As a reference (to get an idea about the stiffness) I use the document on the website http://www.racetech.com/download/DS-504440-01.pdf and compare the stock valving of my shock absorber with the valving charts on the Race Tech website. I realize the valving charts are for the gold valve, but I’m sure it gives me some Idea about the stiffness of my stock stack. The low speed rebound of my shock is: (5) .20x40 .11x25 This is near the Race Tech rL102605 (5).20x40 .10x26 Link to the low speed rebound valving chart https://www.dropbox.com/s/1u6txpl2hei2mzp/low-speed-rebound-valving.jpg?dl=0 The high speed rebound of my shock: .30x40 .30x38 .30x36 .30x34 .30x32 (2).25x30 (2).25x28 .30x26 This is exactly the same as Race Tech rH168. Link to the high speed rebound valving chart https://www.dropbox.com/s/fzvsau59m63vhue/high-speed-rebound-valving.jpg?dl=0 My questions: Is my comparison of the low speed and high speed rebound valving correct? Can you tell me what shim stacks from the Race Tech valving chart match my stock compression valving? The low speed compression of my shock: (12).20x44 .15x37 What Race Tech low speed compression shim stack matches my stock shim stack the most? Link to the low speed compression valving chart https://www.dropbox.com/s/lfvrenhcpxwh7eh/low-speed-compression-valving.jpg?dl=0 The high speed compression of my shock: .20x42 .20x40 .20x38 .20x36 .20x34 .20x32 .20x30 .20x28 .20x27 .20x26 .30x25 What Race Tech high speed compression shim stack matches my stock shim stack the most? Link to the high speed compression valving chart https://www.dropbox.com/s/dkxc1p0zu3q55gj/high-speed-compression-valving.jpg?dl=0 Thank you very much for your help!
  8. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    New unused Trax shock for ktm/husky linkage bikes for 2015 and under. comes with x-trig adjuster ($190 new!) Currently 5.6 spring, valved for moto. These shocks are over $2500 from WP.

    $999.00

  9. Hey guys, so recently I've noticed that my front pro circuit suspension is stiffer than hell. So I read on it and it said that sometimes it's because the front wheel is misaligned and the forks will not sit right. So I put the bike on a stand bled the suspension and got the axle nut loose and the pinch bolts, and every body said to push the suspension down or even press the brakes a few times to help align the wheel. I made sure to tighten the axle then tightened the pinch bolts. But when I tried to push the suspension down while everything was loose it barely moves at all because it's so stiff. I even tried putting the bike on the stand and turning the clickers counter clockwise to soften them up but they were out of adjustment. What do I Do? How do you guys realign the wheel? I've got a riding trip coming up soon and need as much help as I can get. I'll try to add a link to video I found of a bike doing the same thing.
  10. Wow, it's been a few years since I've been on here. Glad to see old farts like greyracer are still on here helping guys out. I recently had an experience that I had to pass along though so I thought I'd log in here and see what's up. I was going through one of my favorite bikes, my "old" '06 YZ450. (I recently rode a couple '17 KTM's and it made me appreciate my YZ even more.) While I was freshening up the suspension, I thought I'd lower it a little bit in the process. I've always been happy with the suspension on that bike so I didn't want to go crazy with big changes, just a little tweaking. Anyway, I needed some shock oil and seals and I wanted to see if anyone local had any in stock. (Something that is getting harder and harder to do. For the local SF Bay Area people, we just lost Zoom Cycles, THE go-to parts and accessories store for the last 45 years.) I do a little google searching and find Dave Johnson of Smart Performance is local to me. I give him a call and sure enough, he has everything I would possibly need for any suspension work I wanted to do. He puts together an order and I drive over to pick it up. I'm greeted by an obviously VERY intelligent, articulate, helpful and nice guy. I show him what I'm doing and he gives me tons of ideas and suggestions. I leave with everything I would need to build the shock and fill it with oil and nitrogen myself. The next day I realize that having a guy that's done hundreds, if not thousands of shock rebuilds purge the oil of bubbles in a vacuum chamber he built just for that purpose would probably be better than me trying to do it myself. I asked him if he would vacuum and charge the shock and he said no problem, bring it down! When I went back to have him do the shock, I also brought my fork parts to ask him about lowering ideas. Again, he gave me a ton of excellent information and some upgrade parts to put into the forks in the process. I left with a filled and charged shock in my hand that I had 100% confidence in it being filled perfectly with all air purged properly. I then spent some time on my lathe making a couple spacers for lowering the forks. Just for the h#ll of it, I thought I'd send him some pictures of what I came up with. AGAIN, he gave me his invaluable input and suggestions and it pushed me to make another set of spacers that I could be absolutely positive would work perfectly and dependably. I'm generally a pretty independent thinker and worker. When somebody influences me to be BETTER than I think I can be or do, that impresses me A LOT. Dave's suggestions and thoughts "pushed" me to do a better job and come up with a better final solution. For that, I wanted to return the favor by letting everyone know my personal experience with Dave and Smart Performance. I know this won't come as a surprise to many here, but I just thought I'd share anyway. I'm a HUGE fan of smart people openly sharing knowledge, and Dave is absolutely one of those people. Thanks Dave! John (aka gmtech16450yz everywhere else on the web. Google search that or "john's sky redline".)
  11. I was looking into the swing arm swap that Dr D did and wondered would it only work with the Alum framed bikes? I have a nice sized crack where my chain guide smacked a rock and need to replace it. I know Ill need the linkage to go with it and I would need the 09 450f rear wheel now right?
  12. Basicly what the title says, I weigh 100lbs and ride a 2002 yz 250 I just bought this bike and its the newest and nicest bike I have ever owned im pretty proud of it lol (upgraded from a 1989 rm 250) Anyways I have never had suspension set up for myself on any bike I have ever owned besides clickers. my forks are leaking and I need to rebuild them so while im in there what all can I do too make this bike ride butter smooth for my weight? any advice on what and how I can set up this bike too ride best for me would be great. I cant seem too find anything with my weight on a bike this big any help would be greatly appreciated also I ride mostly trails roots rocks etc.
  13. Ok I have spent a good last part of the month doing my research and really coming up with nothing. Many phone calls to different companies resulted in a very quick conversation to say the least. No one seemed like they wanted to help. As if this highly guarded secret of valving should only be for a select few. Then with the help of 2 board members. One gave me the basic info. and the other held my hand and so graciously took the time te explain how everything worked no matter how dumb the questions.(Thanks so much guys!) Also please feel free to chime in if I am not explaining something correctly! Now remember that I am valving for a 6'8" 265lbs +30 Vet rider. The fork springs are .54kg and shock spring 6.4kg and this is a base starting point for me but should work also for others +/- a hundred shims. Most all suspension tuners use a standard valve stack that they have come to feel is good for most and then re-spring and adjust the oil height accordingly Parts List FC Oil Lock Collars FC Kashima Floating Pistons Loc-Tite RED PC-03 grease for O-rings and bushings Maxima Racing 5wt Fork Oil Inner and Outer So over the next week as I get the time I will post my progress and detail it as much as I can. I am not going to go through the basics of removing the forks and taking them apart. You can get all that info. in the Honda Service Manual. If you can not do that then maybe you should not proceed. Once you have the forks broken down into the basics and oil drained you can start w/ the base valve. First order of business is to remove the nut on the end that has been peened. Using a 10mm I slowly backed the nut almost off. I then tighented down and used a very fine hand file and worked around the upper most thread. Take your time here. This is probally the toughest part of this whole re-valve. Once the peening is removed you should be able to removed the nut fairly easy. Now have some zip-ties ready to stack the part onto as they are removed. (If you have trouble getting the piston off then you need to file some more. Put the nut back on and be careful starting the threads. Lightly tighten it down and file some more. Now that the piston comes off easy continue removing the rest of the peices and adding then in the correct order to the zip-tie. Now take you zip-tie(s) inside and sit down at the table and lay a clean rag out and now lay all the peice out in order so you can see what you have and clean the parts making sure not to leave grit or lint. Some of your numbers will vary due to production dates. You should now have some thing that looks like this laided out. After removing shims I will be adding 4,30x.10 shims to the stack ( this should stiffen it up on the compression )and removing shims 28,26,24,22,20.(This will make it plusher) These shims will be reversed stacked to form a V. This will allow for some more deflection. The OEM will be stacked like this After changing the stack you will get this Looking close at the 2 pics you can see how the removed shims were reversed and stacked at the bottom to form a V. Fork Springs .54kg Oil 380cc Base Valve OEM # of Shims O.D. x Shim Thickness Compression 16 30 x 0.10 1 29 x 0.10 1 28 x 0.10 1 27 x 0.10 1 26 x 0.10 1 25 x 0.10 1 24 x 0.10 1 23 x 0.10 1 22 x 0.10 1 21 x 0.10 1 20 x 0.10 1 19 x 0.10 1 18 x 0.10 Base Valve Modified # of Shims O.D. x Shim Thickness Compression 20 30 x 0.10 1 29 x 0.10 1 27 x 0.10 1 25 x 0.10 1 23 x 0.10 1 21 x 0.10 1 19 x 0.10 1 20 x 0.10 1 22 x 0.10 1 24 x 0.10 1 26 x 0.10 1 28 x 0.10 Once you have the shim stack reordered...transfer it back onto the base valve and make sure to use some red Loc-Tite on the threads. Do not peen them over again as more than likely once you understand whats going on you will be back in the forks to make some adjustments.. Tomorrow I will post the Mid-Valve followed by the shock. So far this has been pretty easy. I will try and put together How-it-Works for each part modified. So there will be a better understanding of the fuction. it is late here and I am tired so I post tomorrow theDogger
  14. As many of us new owners of the CRF250L come on board, One of the "big" selling features of this bike is the lower seat height, compared to the 650L's, WRR's, KTM's, DRZ-z's, KLX's.... and so on...YES, the Dr200 is lower and the XT 225, TW200 and the CRF 230L, but we're here to deal with the "NEW"CRF 250L With the CRF250L's seat height being advertized at 34.7 inches, it comes in "lower" than most others in the 250cc class and up. The objective of this thread is to give us vertically challenged owners/future owners the options we have to make the bike more fitting and comfortable for us people in the 5'3' to 5'8" range. If your shorter and new to riding, I'd suggest maybe looking into one of the above mentioned bikes ...If taller, no problems should be experienced I would think. I am going to point out my own experiences/opinions/dimensions to give people an insight to the size and fit of the CRFL. I am about 5' 8.5" with sneakers on my feet, lil more with riding boots, My inseam is about 31 inches and I weigh about 180lbs. When I sit on the CRFL (Stock form) I am on my toes to ball part of my feet, with the bike sitting on the garage floor or other flat surface. As I am a relatively experienced rider on street ( scale of 1 to 10....about a 6). I am quite comfortable with it in its stock form on streets/dirt/ fire/ service roads- 90% of my intended riding. If I was less experienced, It's height would be a bit intimidating to me. The wife is 5'4" and has a CRF250L also, and we have a Kouba link installed, forks lowered and Seat Concepts seat on order. Please feel free to ask any questions about this topic on here or share your experiences. I am "new" to the "Dual Sport" and TT world also, but will help answer your questions or try to point you in the right direction, Hopefully some of the "Ole pro's that lurk here will chime in".. The below pic's show me (5'8" - 31" inseam) sitting on the bikes. Pic's don't do much justice as the "feel" but take note of my feet position and Knees (there is a difference, trust me!!) Plus weather it makes much of a difference or not, but it`s so cold out in my garage ``it would freeze the nuts off an Iron bridge`` so there's not much give to the suspension and seat. Thanks to FOXBROOK (wife) for taking the pic's See below: This is the stock set up, my heals slightly raised and I'm sorta struggling to reach the floor This is The bike with the Kouba Link installed, Take note that I'm more flat footed. The link installed (simple installation,good instructions,and the grease fitting is a bonus) Front forks lowered, slightly more than 1/2 inch...my measurements might be slightly off also I dropped the forks about 1/2 inch, could go more or less..IDK . Pretty simple also, but if ya do this, be careful with the plastic head light cowl when torquing up the bolts ..Bottom/Top bridge pinch bolts (24ft/lbs) as the manual states. You have to kinda squeeze the cowl a tiny bit to get the scoket in there and the tabs break VERY easy....
  15. 1 review

    Tamer’s new Rear Holeshot Hookup starting device is the perfect addition to the Front Holeshot Hookup for the ultimate holeshot. Accompanied by the front device, the rear device together completely immobilizes the suspension making the bike rigid for the start ensuring that all transfer of power and energy is used to move the bike forward, so there is no energy loss of power in the suspension as in a bike without a rear starting device. This concept works excellent in all conditions from dry slick to tacky to concrete. HOW DOES THIS WORK: The Tamer Rear Holeshot Hookup works in 2 stages. STAGE 1 - When you are ready to start, you hold the front brake, apply the throttle and let out the clutch until it begins to engage or "chatter". Without a rear device, the rear of the bike raises up during this time and when you leave the gate, the rear has to settle back down and this absorbs energy from the motor that could be going towards forward motion. With the Tamer rear Holeshot Hookup, the rear of the bike is not allowed to raise up during take off ensuring that all energy produced by the engine is transferred to a forward motion. This equals 3 to 4 tenths of a second. STAGE 2 - Without the device, the rear of the bike has raised up, you dump the clutch to take off and the rear shock settles down and by doing this, you preload the rear shock and when the rear tire makes contact with the gate, the shock rebounds and the rear tire looses traction with the ground. With the Tamer Holeshot Hookup installed, the bike is already settled down and when the rear tire makes contact with the start gate, it releases the latching system and drives the rear tire into the ground without loosing any traction. This can equal 4 to 5 tenths of a second. All in all, this action translates into a full bike length advantage out of the gate over the others without a starting device. The Tamer Rear Holeshot Hookup is a bolt-on system and will attach to any stock and most aftermarket linkages available. The latch system attaches to your OEM shock bolt.
  16. Hey TT'ers We have some suspension training seminars coming up this fall that I wanted to share with you. They are not necessarily for those looking to learn basic suspension adjustment & maintenance , but if you're serious about suspension tuning, likely worth the time & money invested. 2017 RACE TECH SUSPENSION SEMINARS Race Tech’s Paul Thede, co-author of the Motorcycle Suspension Bible, will host four classes on cutting edge suspension theory and practice. Starting October 21st, students may choose to attend one-of, or all the classes offered; including, Suspension Theory, Track Day Testing, Shop Skills, and the Advanced Class; hosted in Corona, CA. Paul Thede has an extensive technical background, with over 40 years of professional racing and tuning experience to go along with his Summa Cum Laude in Mechanical Engineering from California Polytechnic University. He has also been the owner/president of industry-leading Race Tech Suspension since 1984. Thede is prepared to share his know-how at the Race Tech Technical Edge Seminar to benefit those interested in increasing their knowledge and earning power. If you are a race team tuner, dad, mechanic, or just someone who wishes to know the ‘why’ behind the ‘what’, this seminar is a must-attend. Suspension Theory Class - October 21-22, 2017 Tuition: $609 (Enrollment package discount available) Shop Skills Class - October 23-24, 2017 Tuition: $559 (Enrollment package discount available) Prerequisite: Suspension Theory Class "Track Day" Testing Class - October 25, 2017 Tuition: $375 Advanced Class - October 26-27, 2017 Tuition: $559 (Enrollment package discount available) Prerequisite: Suspension Theory Class More @ http://www.racetech.com/page/id/27
  17. Hi All, Trying to start a suspension collective, Year and Model Valving (Factory Connection, Racetech, stillwell, etc.) Class (AA, A, B, C) Terrain Weight Springs Rider sag Clickers Comments on feel Ill start 2016 YZ250X Valving - Stock Class - C Terrain - New England woods, single track and hare scrambles Weight - 200 lbs of glory Springs - Shock 5.6kg Factiory Connection , Forks 0.46kg Factory Connection Rider sag 105mm Clickers - Front Comp 15 out, Rebound 15 out - Shock Rebound 14 out, High speed 1 and 3/4 turns out, Low speed 11 out Just changed settings as the factory 12 and 12 were too stiff for the roots and rock gardens. Felt amazing in the turns and on fast and flowy. Just upgraded springs to weight appropriate - will update once I ride Wednesday.
  18. How much weight can be saved with a disc brake swap to an XT500 w drums? My front/rear weights are a staggering 138/198.
  19. Hi All, Just got new springs for my YZ250X to fit my 200 lb weight. With gear im right at 105mm of race sag. Took it on some enduro trails the other day, mix of rocky, rutty, rooty, and earthy double track in New Hampshire. Overall the suspension feels good, but still feels really harsh over roots. Current settings 320cc of Pro Honda SS7 5w Fork - Spring 0.46 kg 15 out rebound 15 out comp Shock - Spring 5.6kg 14 out rebound Low Speed 11 out High speed 1 3/4 turns out I emailed FC and talked to someone and he said go 22 out on compression on the forks..............but they max at 20? He also said to go 2.5 turns on the HS comp........but it maxes at 2?????? Am I talking to the wrong guy? thanks in advance for the help
  20. Hi All, I've been using my '07 WR450F for MX duties but the super soft forks are making my life very hard. I have to land every bump and jump on the back wheel, as if I'm riding some 60's scrambler. Landing front wheel first or even large braking bumps cause the forks to bottom out with a loud whack! I've tried fiddling with the oil height but even a max recommended it's still the same. The stock springs fitted are 4.5N. Yamaha max recommended is 4.6N. Surely a 2% wont be enough? I'm thinking of trying 4.8N (6.6% stiffer) I'm not hitting 130ft tables so i dont need it super stiff. I'm about 70kg. What are you guys using? And did you fit more/less preload spacers?? Thanks in advance Pancho
  21. Time Left: 1 day and 3 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    i have for sale a set of 2001 honda cr125r kyb forks. no leaks to be found seals looks good they came off my parts bike and are just sitting around i sold my personal cr125 so i dont have a need for these anymore. they are dont bent or have any dents in them they are in perfect working order can text or email pics of them. also have a shock for ale as well. message or comment for information. buyer pays shipping

    $100.00

  22. Hey guys, First post here. I've just picked up a new 17' 450F and seem to be struggling a little with the SFF air TAC fork, I've spent hours researching them on these forums and have got the fork set up fairly well, I would say it's 90% there. The fork feels nice and plush and is working how I would like, however, I'm having issues with the front end traction. I live out in the UAE so all I really ride is dunes/baja style desert circuits and I don't have any confidence in the front end at the moment. Coming off a Honda I use to be able to throw that thing into the flat desert turns and the front would just grip allowing me to power round, but with the Kawasaki it feels like it's riding on the edge of traction and just wants to wash out, it also feels a little twitchy at high speed. I've got about 5 hours on the bike now and these are the settings I'm running, I'm roughly 210-212lb geared up and have my sag set at 105mm: Inner = 167psi Outer = 16.7psi Balance = 200psi Compression = 12 back Rebound = 11 back Any help on this would be really appreciated, cheers guys. Jordan
  23. What should nitrogen pressure be set on vintage fox non reservoir shocks,14" old school twin shocks?
  24. Can anyone help? I've got a '93 cr250 that i'm stripping down and sorting out with powder coated frame, new bearings and newer suspension off a '96. The '96 shock and fork need rebuilding which got me thinking would it be wise to fit new springs as the originals, being 20 years old, could have lost some of their original firmness, i'm interested to hear opinions on this. Also any suggestions on weight springs, oil and oil level to use. I'm about 12.5 stone (79.5kg) without gear on. Cheers, Rob
  25. i have installed my new racetech shock spring, but without the collar. i am not sure if i need this collar or not, what it's use is and where it should be located. can someone please advise their thoughts on this. thank you. Byte