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Found 58 results

  1. New to the forums here! I have a 2005 Honda crf250x currently with stock springs. I weigh about 205 without gear on and from what I have read I need to adjust my spring rates to my weight. That all makes since but as far as doing a revalve is it really needed? I ask that because I just ride trails, no motto, and don't race. Are new springs and clicker adjustments gunna be a big difference and do I really need a revalve for my level and style of riding.
  2. WideningArc1

    Honda CRF250R (2011)

    0 comments

    I have owned and raced many bike from different brands but nothing compares to the controlability and power of this bike.
  3. JustTakeItEasy

    KTM 450 SX-F (2013)

    0 comments

    Street legal in AZ, this 450SXF. Started with trail ready, kept going to full street legal. Easy to get plated in AZ. Pain in the ass and expensive to do all this on MX bike, but mad fun to have the 450SXF on the trails, open desert and bush. TBT suspension Rekluse Auto Core EXP Fastaway System3 Overbar Steering Stabilizer Fasst Flexx bars Baja Designs Squadron Pro LED Headlight Rear LED tail kit from EXC with (exc rear fender swap) 70 watt upgraded stator Promoto Billet black kickstand Trailtech Striker digi gauge Seat Concepts low seat Moose Racing front fender dual sport pack Moose Racing rear render velcro cylinder pack Doubltake fold down mirror ProMotoB Billet rear rack - black Fastway linkage protection TrailTech radiator fan kit Bulletproof radiator guards Bulletproof chain guide/swingarm guards Ricochet skidplate FMF muffler Black Excel rims Cycra handguards Orange Anodized unbreakable levers OdiLock grips DirtTricks sprockets and Did gold series chain Warp 9 adjustable rear brake pedal with flexx Warp 9 gear selector with flexx Fastway Adventure footpegs Tm designworks chain guide Padiator - rear brake radiator
  4. 2 reviews

    PRODUCT DESCRIPTION The best possible suspension set-up for each track is most often what decides the winner. The PODIUM® RC3 gives riders unsurpassed suspension performance along with the ability to fine tune to the perfect setting quicker and easier than ever before. FOX's proprietary external adjustments allow riders to independently dial in the optimum amount of high- and low-speed compression, rebound, and bottom-out control, completely independent of each other. FEATURES/TECHNOLOGIES Adjustable Bottom-Out Control (B.O.C.) to change the end of travel damping without affecting the first 3/4 of travel F.A.S.T. (Fast Adjust Spring Technology) preload device Dual compression adjuster with huge range of adjustment DLC coated shaft Exotic, proprietary coatings on shock body and reservoir to enhance durability and significantly reduce stiction High flow, Off-Road racing truck inspired damping piston ADJUSTMENTS - Bottom-Out Control (B.O.C.) - 24 clicks - Spring Preload with new F.A.S.T. preload device - High Speed Compression - 24 clicks - Low Speed Compression - 24 clicks - Rebound - 24 clicks SPRING CoilAPPLICATIONS Motocross Racing
  5. I own a 2000 DRZ-400K, and while search for fork tuning information I found that there was a lot of discussion, but not a lot of actual information about setups that people are running. I've dug into my forks and made some changes, so I wanted to post the information up here in hopes that people may be able to find it and try it themselves. My DRZ is a 2000 kick-only model, so it has the higher compression motor, FCR carb, and is relatively lightweight (supposedly ~260 lb dry). I weigh 170 without gear and am a C-level racer. I use my DRZ for aggressive trail riding and dual sporting out west, primarily on rocky CO terrain but also in UT, NV, and Mexico. I am running 0.48 forks springs, which have about the right sag with a large gas tank and all my gear on, but the front of the bike was still soft. The Showa conventional forks on DRZs are good quality units, but the factory valving leaves a lot to be desired if the bike is ridden moderately fast. Due, in part, to the deactivated midvalve (which has a simple sprung checkplate stock), the forks blow through their travel and bottom easily, feel soft and wallowy, while not necessarily being plush on trail trash. The stock DRZ base valve stack is: 24x0.1 (6X) 15x0.1 24x0.1 22x0.1 20x0.1 18x0.1 16x0.1 14x0.15 12x0.2 9x0.2 If you plug it into restackor, the graphs look like this: For reference, I've compared it to a few other bikes: Husky WR300, TXC310 and TE610, and Yamaha WR450. I picked these for a few reasons: first of all, this is the data that I have. Second of all, these bikes (especially the 610 and the 450) are roughly the same size/type of bike, being medium size thumper dual sports. Most of the bikes have two lines plotted; one line for the base valve damping ("BV") and one line for the total damping. The DRZ, WR450, and TE610 are base-valve-only forks in stock form; in other words, the midvalve is checked. The WR300 and TXC both have active midvalves in factory form. For the midvalve bikes, it's important to look at the total damping, because the extra work that the midvalve does can make the base valve only misleading. We can see that, out of all of these bikes, the DRZ is by far the least damped. If we were to plot a motocross bike on here, the difference would be even bigger, since these are all either dual sports or trail bikes. This isn't to say that one of these particular curves is "right," but rather that the DRZ is at one end of the spectrum, and bikes like the 610 and WR450 feel "pretty good" in stock form as far as striking a reasonable balance between plushness and control. You could build a midvalve for a DRZ, but that requires tracking down a bunch of parts (spring, cut washer, sleeve, shims) that not everybody may have access too. Instead, I decided to just work with the base valve, which is much easier to get to and simpler, and should be easier for more people to work on. Over the course of this thread, I (and others) have posted lots of shim stacks. I started with some "weird" 3-stage setups, and gradually made them simpler over time. I have edited this post to show the newest/most recent thinking for valving. If some of the other posts don't quite make sense, this is why. Below are 2 recommended shim stacks for DRZ riders for general use. These should work well for trail riding, dual sporting, and slower racers (like me) on normal woods terrain. The first stack is a relatively simple 2-stage stack, and the second is a fancier 3-stage stack designed to be more plush on rougher terrain. DRZ Revalve #1 (2-stage stack): 24x0.1 (6X) 12x0.1 24x0.1 22x0.15 20x0.15 18x0.15 16x0.15 14x0.15 12x0.2 To build this stack, you remove the stock 9mm clamp shim, change the crossover to a 12x0.1, and replace all the high speed shims with 0.15mm thick shims (except for the first 24x0.1). This is similar to (but lighter than) the WR450 stack. DRZ Revalve #2 (3-Stage Stack) 24x0.1 (4X) 12x0.1 24x0.1 (4X) 18x0.1 12x0.1 24x0.15 22x0.15 20x0.15 18x0.15 16x0.15 14x0.15 12x0.2 Here is a ReStackor simulation showing how these stacks compare to the stock stuff: You can see here that these stacks give approximately 30-40% more damping than the stock DRZ stacks, and line up fairly well with some of the other bikes pictures. For other purposes, you can change these stacks to your liking. For example, for MX and sandy whoop use, member MarekB has run a stack with 10X 24.1 face shims and no crossover (single stage). If you're a heavier rider and/or want to ride jumps and whoops, I'd recommend using the #1 revalve with more face shims; 8-10X face shims is probably a good starting point. For supermoto (on the non-USD bikes), these #1 stack would probably work much better than stock, but more stiffness might be required, and you could try removing the crossover. If you're a slower trailrider and you want a plusher ride, try the #2 stack but with 1-2 less 24x0.1 shims, and/or a 10mm clamp under the 12x0.2. To build a fancier, more modern setup, you can retrofit the midvalve parts and run a "real" active midvalve like most newer bikes run. If you want to do this, you'll probably want to run a softer base valve to go with the stiffer mid; see these posts for some starting recommendations: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1035004-drz-fork-revalve-shim-stack-discussion-recommendations/?p=10922455 http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1035004-drz-fork-revalve-shim-stack-discussion-recommendations/?p=11074057 For some info about the WR450 shim stack, and a similar stack you could try in a DRZ, see this post: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1035004-drz-fork-revalve-shim-stack-discussion-recommendations/?p=11010953 For some very good shock revalaving info, see BMWPowere36m3's post here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1035004-drz-fork-revalve-shim-stack-discussion-recommendations/?p=11062678 For another perspective on some stiffer stacks for a DRZ, see this post by MarekB: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1035004-drz-fork-revalve-shim-stack-discussion-recommendations/?p=11078860 And, just some other options: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1035004-drz-fork-revalve-shim-stack-discussion-recommendations/?p=11199587 http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1035004-drz-fork-revalve-shim-stack-discussion-recommendations/?p=11209720 Good luck! Shim stack reference points: TE610 (2006) Stock BV: 23x0.15 23x0.15 23x0.15 14x0.1 23x0.15 21x0.15 20x0.15 19x0.15 17x0.2 15x0.2 13x0.2 WR300 (2012) Stock BV: 24x0.11 24x0.11 24x0.11 24x0.11 24x0.11 24x0.11 12x0.11 22x0.15 20x0.15 18x0.15 16x0.15 13x0.15 11x0.25 18x0.5 18x1 WR450 (2005?) Stock BV: 24x0.11 (12X) 22x0.15 22x0.15 22x0.15 20x0.15 18x0.15 16x0.15 14x0.15 12x0.15 11x0.25 18x0.5 18x1
  6. familyrider_sno_mx

    KTM 450 SX-F (2004)

    0 comments

    Just bought it and need a bit more seat time before I write a review
  7. DTM Industries

    Yamaha YZ450F (2006)

    0 comments

    The bike engine is stock, TBT racing suspension set up for my wait ,desert and sand dune riding , Scott's BRP sub mount kit, FMF mage bomb header and factory 4.1 muffler ,over sized front rotor kit, cryra bark busters, Mylers radiators , custom radiator's brace fabed from Moose racing brace , enduro engineering rotor fin, Moose racing cluch basket,Russell front brake line, Scorpion racing 3/16 skid plate, and more parts too come soon
  8. norris_877

    Kawasaki KX250F (2015)

    0 comments

    Best bike of 2015.. Absolutely love everything about it.
  9. Deftone

    KTM 525 EXC-G (2007)

    0 comments

    Awesome.
  10. IamRooster151

    Yamaha YZ250 (2014)

    0 comments

    Great all around bike, from mx to offload, competition to recreation. Easy to maintain, plenty of power, light wight and "flickable".
  11. DTM Industries

    TBT racing suspension

    3 reviews

    GENERAL INFORMATION Custom tuned suspension and springs and rebuild
  12. I'm doing Hare Scrambles/XC racing on a 2002 YZ250. I'm a 6'2" 190lb "Fast C Rider". I also play ride MX, and want to give racing MX/GP/Megacross a shot, but the forks are holding me back. For the rear end, I've set the race sag to 100mm. I had to add a lot of preload ("tightened the nut" about an inch), so my bike sag is less than ideal now, which I understand indicates I should try a stiffer rear spring. What are the handling effects of running this way? Simply setting the sag helped the bike's manners an amazing amount. I was terrified to jump this bike before setting sag (hello boner air!), but after, it is much easier. It launches neutrally on most jumps now. I'm running full soft (out) on high speed compression (helps the rear stay put on rooty hill climbs, etc), and a few clicks out from stock on the rest. RT calculator says to go from 4.8 kg/mm stock shock spring to 5.4 or 5.6 kg/mm. The front end is not going so well. I've changed the fork oil and have been playing with clickers and oil level. No matter what I try, the front end is still too harsh on small stuff, and far too soft on big stuff. Clicking them to the bottom is a regular thing in play riding as well as racing. I can also feel and see the forks spending most of their time at the bottom of the stroke. I'm very budget-oriented, so I'm thinking about going ahead with stiffer springs with the stock forks and valving. Is that a mistake? In addition to springs, should I buy a tanks kit? Gold valves? Drill my valves? Should I skip springs for the 2002 forks (KYB 46U), and instead shop for 2005 AOS forks (~$200), or the 2-3x pricier 2006 SSS forks, and then buy springs for those? Should I plan to pay for a revalve for these forks after a swap? I'm feeling more than a bit lost here LOL. 48mm fork swap thread: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1003475-figured-out-how-to-swap-07-48mm-sss-forks-into-03-yz250/ RT calculator says to go from 0.43 kg/mm stock fork springs to 0.48 or 0.50 kg/mm. Same rate but different size/part number for 05 or 06+ forks. Photos of the bike, to keep this interesting:
  13. Dyno Data on TT You'd think dyno data would be all over the place in suspension forums comparing shim stacks, bike setups and year-to-year suspension tuning changes. Turns out dyno data is pretty rare. If you dig around there are a few dyno runs scattered through the TT suspension forum. This thread is an attempt to use the collective knowledge of TT to evaluate that dyno data and then try to figure out what the dyno data tells us, if anything, about how to tune a shim stack. Dyno data found so far: John Curea using the MxTech dyno posted a couple of dyno runs looking at a yz250 shock and a couple more dyno runs helping the Dogger tune his crf450 rebound stack. Valving Logic has a thread helping riders setup their suspension using a combination of dyno runs and test rides, and other threads looks at which stack is stiffer. Push Ind. Put out a sample EMA dyno run. MXScandinavia put out a great series of dyno tests looking at some of the basic shim stack tuning questions that come up around here all the time. Kawamaha posted some of his hydraulic dyno on TT. But some of his other dyno runs seem to have gone missing? If you know of any other dyno data here on TT? Post a link!
  14. xcountryfreak

    Yamaha YZ250 (2006)

    0 comments

    06 YZ250 with Carbon fiber gas tank, CF chain guide, CF silencer and pipe guard. Stock powerplant and carb, stock valving in suspension. 2010 YZ450F swingarm, linkage, rear wheel, axle and brake carrier. 2010 Honda CRF450 front brake. Miscellaneous titanium nuts and bolts and Ti rear axle. Applied Racing 22 offset triple clamps. Last weighed in at 211.5 lbs with no gas.
  15. umberto

    Kawasaki KX250 (2003)

    0 comments

    This is my 2003 KX250, 88 KX500 conversion. I decided to do this conversion, because I like the 2003-2004 models so much. They are the last of the front end turning two stroke KX250s, and the ergonomics are better than the earlier 99-02 models in my opinion. I've added the KYB kit suspension from Pro Circuit similar to what they used on the SplitFire bikes.
  16. JGlaze

    Kawasaki KX250F (2013)

    0 comments

    Making my decision to purchase this green machine was influenced by its solid results in the shootouts, as well as good reviews from local riders who had experience with the KX250F. It was purchased in the winter of 2014 as a left over 2013 model year for a great OTD price. The current 2016 KX250F is basically the same bike as the one in this review, but with some new bells and whistles. There is a start mode, adjustable foot pegs, and adjustable handle bar mounts. The “bling” on the motor is now green instead of blue, but you get the picture. Same frame, engine, and suspension. Once I got the bike home, it went into my basement to stay nice and warm for the remainder of that winter. The black triple clamps and blue anodized engine plugs really pop out as a pretty cool look for a stock bike. Although it looks nice while new, I am not a huge fan of so much black plastic. Once it scratches it looks old real quick. This is nothing a can of Maxima SC1, and a new set of graphics can’t fix. I guess I’m just old school and like the brand color to be more prevalent on the bike. As with any bike brand, you will save yourself a TON of future headache’s by doing some basic preventative maintenance before you take it out for that first ride. This not only ensures that your bike is ready for a long life of use, it also familiarizes you with how the bike is put together for future reference. One of the more common threads in the thumper talk forum’s refers to people snapping the chain adjustment bolts in the swing arm, or having major bearing issues due to lack of maintenance in the steering head for example. I striped the bike down and greased the entire chassis and wheel’s to prepare it for its first ride with Maxima water proof grease. I unplugged all of the wiring plugs on the harness, and added die electric grease to all of the connections. While the swing arm was off the bike, I removed the chain adjustment bolts to add anti seize, and grease to the threads. Once that was done I reassembled the bike and was set to ride! Engine The power of this bike really impressed me when compared to my last 250F which was a 06 Honda. I am a big fan of the new FI technology. FI gives me a lot more confidence knowing that the bike isn't going to bog when landing from big jumps. I had to adjust the valves at about 20 hours, but nothing out of the ordinary has gone wrong. I primarily ride with the white coupler on the MX tracks. The bike wakes up and produces a lot of excitement right off of idle. The power just seems to be more aggressive with this setting everywhere, and I prefer it on all the MX tracks I ride. Maybe if I went out west and rode a sun baked track, concrete hard surface I could see trying a mellower coupler. The bike gives a great tractable power in the woods with the black coupler installed. The trails around here are really tight/rocky/root's/steep, if the trails you ride are a bit faster with less rocks such as a GNCC type environment, you can leave the green or white coupler on. Suspension Handling The stock Showa SFF suspension is pretty good, although I don't have experience with the other brands to compare it too. I found that a few clicks out on the compression and rebound really calmed the front end down on the execration bumps on medium to hard terrain tracks that have a lot of small chatter bumps. At softer tracks like Southwick and even Winchester Speed Park, going in a quarter turn on the high speed, a click or 2 in from stock on the comp/rebound, and lowering the forks in the clamps so they were flush gave me great results when staying on top of the large soft rollers. I would still get an occasional weird kick or deflection from the fork from time to time however. At 20 hours I sent off the suspension to Factory Connection for are valve for my weight and ability (30+ B MX rider, 172lb). With 7 hours on the bike since I got the suspension back, I have been pleased with the changes. Using the easy to understand info sheet, I have been able to make changes based on the varying terrain and conditions with amazing results. I really notice a difference with how well the bike charges over the bumps with confidence. Doing a re-valve is one of the first things I would recommend doing with this suspension setup! The stock MX51 tires from Dunlap were not ideal for my local New England terrain, but I kept them on for about the first 7 hours. The only place I had a good feeling out of the MX51's was at Rocky Hill, CT when the track got hard packed and blue grooved late on a summer day. Unless you are riding in those conditions exclusively I would highly recommend that you change them out to Dunlap MX32's. The bike has a much better feel with those tires and I am very pleased with them so far in all conditions. Overall impression and opinion Overall, I am happy with this bike. I have really enjoyed riding it and would recommend it if you are in the market for a 250F MX bike. The light feel of the bike makes it easy to throw around. Sometimes it takes a tad more effort to initiate turns, but you quickly get used to that trait. On the other end of the spectrum, the bike is extremely stable in a straight line giving a sense of comfort which allows you to push as hard as you want to over rough straightaways. Add ons: The stock skid plate was swapped out with an Acerbic off road plastic unit which I am extremely impressed with. All it takes is 2 bolts to remove for easy cleaning and protection. Works Connection radiator braces were installed when new, along with an hour meter. I grew up in the 90's and always admired the look of the KX's of the day which influenced my purchase of the One Industries 93 retro graphic kit and seat cover. As stated above, I went with a Factory Connection re valve. Thanks for reading!
  17. Big_Jimbo

    Yamaha SRX700 (2001)

    0 comments

    Low and heavy but fast as hell
  18. racerden

    KTM 525 EXC (2004)

    0 comments

    Best Baja bike ever; love the forgiving handling at straight line speed
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