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Found 45 results

  1. JustTakeItEasy

    KTM 450 SX-F (2013)

    0 comments

    Street legal in AZ, this 450SXF. Started with trail ready, kept going to full street legal. Easy to get plated in AZ. Pain in the ass and expensive to do all this on MX bike, but mad fun to have the 450SXF on the trails, open desert and bush. TBT suspension Rekluse Auto Core EXP Fastaway System3 Overbar Steering Stabilizer Fasst Flexx bars Baja Designs Squadron Pro LED Headlight Rear LED tail kit from EXC with (exc rear fender swap) 70 watt upgraded stator Promoto Billet black kickstand Trailtech Striker digi gauge Seat Concepts low seat Moose Racing front fender dual sport pack Moose Racing rear render velcro cylinder pack Doubltake fold down mirror ProMotoB Billet rear rack - black Fastway linkage protection TrailTech radiator fan kit Bulletproof radiator guards Bulletproof chain guide/swingarm guards Ricochet skidplate FMF muffler Black Excel rims Cycra handguards Orange Anodized unbreakable levers OdiLock grips DirtTricks sprockets and Did gold series chain Warp 9 adjustable rear brake pedal with flexx Warp 9 gear selector with flexx Fastway Adventure footpegs Tm designworks chain guide Padiator - rear brake radiator
  2. familyrider_sno_mx

    KTM 450 SX-F (2004)

    0 comments

    Just bought it and need a bit more seat time before I write a review
  3. WideningArc1

    Honda CRF250R (2011)

    0 comments

    I have owned and raced many bike from different brands but nothing compares to the controlability and power of this bike.
  4. I own a 2000 DRZ-400K, and while search for fork tuning information I found that there was a lot of discussion, but not a lot of actual information about setups that people are running. I've dug into my forks and made some changes, so I wanted to post the information up here in hopes that people may be able to find it and try it themselves. My DRZ is a 2000 kick-only model, so it has the higher compression motor, FCR carb, and is relatively lightweight (supposedly ~260 lb dry). I weigh 170 without gear and am a C-level racer. I use my DRZ for aggressive trail riding and dual sporting out west, primarily on rocky CO terrain but also in UT, NV, and Mexico. I am running 0.48 forks springs, which have about the right sag with a large gas tank and all my gear on, but the front of the bike was still soft. The Showa conventional forks on DRZs are good quality units, but the factory valving leaves a lot to be desired if the bike is ridden moderately fast. Due, in part, to the deactivated midvalve (which has a simple sprung checkplate stock), the forks blow through their travel and bottom easily, feel soft and wallowy, while not necessarily being plush on trail trash. The stock DRZ base valve stack is: 24x0.1 (6X) 15x0.1 24x0.1 22x0.1 20x0.1 18x0.1 16x0.1 14x0.15 12x0.2 9x0.2 If you plug it into restackor, the graphs look like this: For reference, I've compared it to a few other bikes: Husky WR300, TXC310 and TE610, and Yamaha WR450. I picked these for a few reasons: first of all, this is the data that I have. Second of all, these bikes (especially the 610 and the 450) are roughly the same size/type of bike, being medium size thumper dual sports. Most of the bikes have two lines plotted; one line for the base valve damping ("BV") and one line for the total damping. The DRZ, WR450, and TE610 are base-valve-only forks in stock form; in other words, the midvalve is checked. The WR300 and TXC both have active midvalves in factory form. For the midvalve bikes, it's important to look at the total damping, because the extra work that the midvalve does can make the base valve only misleading. We can see that, out of all of these bikes, the DRZ is by far the least damped. If we were to plot a motocross bike on here, the difference would be even bigger, since these are all either dual sports or trail bikes. This isn't to say that one of these particular curves is "right," but rather that the DRZ is at one end of the spectrum, and bikes like the 610 and WR450 feel "pretty good" in stock form as far as striking a reasonable balance between plushness and control. You could build a midvalve for a DRZ, but that requires tracking down a bunch of parts (spring, cut washer, sleeve, shims) that not everybody may have access too. Instead, I decided to just work with the base valve, which is much easier to get to and simpler, and should be easier for more people to work on. Over the course of this thread, I (and others) have posted lots of shim stacks. I started with some "weird" 3-stage setups, and gradually made them simpler over time. I have edited this post to show the newest/most recent thinking for valving. If some of the other posts don't quite make sense, this is why. Below are 2 recommended shim stacks for DRZ riders for general use. These should work well for trail riding, dual sporting, and slower racers (like me) on normal woods terrain. The first stack is a relatively simple 2-stage stack, and the second is a fancier 3-stage stack designed to be more plush on rougher terrain. DRZ Revalve #1 (2-stage stack): 24x0.1 (6X) 12x0.1 24x0.1 22x0.15 20x0.15 18x0.15 16x0.15 14x0.15 12x0.2 To build this stack, you remove the stock 9mm clamp shim, change the crossover to a 12x0.1, and replace all the high speed shims with 0.15mm thick shims (except for the first 24x0.1). This is similar to (but lighter than) the WR450 stack. DRZ Revalve #2 (3-Stage Stack) 24x0.1 (4X) 12x0.1 24x0.1 (4X) 18x0.1 12x0.1 24x0.15 22x0.15 20x0.15 18x0.15 16x0.15 14x0.15 12x0.2 Here is a ReStackor simulation showing how these stacks compare to the stock stuff: You can see here that these stacks give approximately 30-40% more damping than the stock DRZ stacks, and line up fairly well with some of the other bikes pictures. For other purposes, you can change these stacks to your liking. For example, for MX and sandy whoop use, member MarekB has run a stack with 10X 24.1 face shims and no crossover (single stage). If you're a heavier rider and/or want to ride jumps and whoops, I'd recommend using the #1 revalve with more face shims; 8-10X face shims is probably a good starting point. For supermoto (on the non-USD bikes), these #1 stack would probably work much better than stock, but more stiffness might be required, and you could try removing the crossover. If you're a slower trailrider and you want a plusher ride, try the #2 stack but with 1-2 less 24x0.1 shims, and/or a 10mm clamp under the 12x0.2. To build a fancier, more modern setup, you can retrofit the midvalve parts and run a "real" active midvalve like most newer bikes run. If you want to do this, you'll probably want to run a softer base valve to go with the stiffer mid; see these posts for some starting recommendations: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1035004-drz-fork-revalve-shim-stack-discussion-recommendations/?p=10922455 http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1035004-drz-fork-revalve-shim-stack-discussion-recommendations/?p=11074057 For some info about the WR450 shim stack, and a similar stack you could try in a DRZ, see this post: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1035004-drz-fork-revalve-shim-stack-discussion-recommendations/?p=11010953 For some very good shock revalaving info, see BMWPowere36m3's post here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1035004-drz-fork-revalve-shim-stack-discussion-recommendations/?p=11062678 For another perspective on some stiffer stacks for a DRZ, see this post by MarekB: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1035004-drz-fork-revalve-shim-stack-discussion-recommendations/?p=11078860 And, just some other options: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1035004-drz-fork-revalve-shim-stack-discussion-recommendations/?p=11199587 http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1035004-drz-fork-revalve-shim-stack-discussion-recommendations/?p=11209720 Good luck! Shim stack reference points: TE610 (2006) Stock BV: 23x0.15 23x0.15 23x0.15 14x0.1 23x0.15 21x0.15 20x0.15 19x0.15 17x0.2 15x0.2 13x0.2 WR300 (2012) Stock BV: 24x0.11 24x0.11 24x0.11 24x0.11 24x0.11 24x0.11 12x0.11 22x0.15 20x0.15 18x0.15 16x0.15 13x0.15 11x0.25 18x0.5 18x1 WR450 (2005?) Stock BV: 24x0.11 (12X) 22x0.15 22x0.15 22x0.15 20x0.15 18x0.15 16x0.15 14x0.15 12x0.15 11x0.25 18x0.5 18x1
  5. New to the forums here! I have a 2005 Honda crf250x currently with stock springs. I weigh about 205 without gear on and from what I have read I need to adjust my spring rates to my weight. That all makes since but as far as doing a revalve is it really needed? I ask that because I just ride trails, no motto, and don't race. Are new springs and clicker adjustments gunna be a big difference and do I really need a revalve for my level and style of riding.
  6. norris_877

    Kawasaki KX250F (2015)

    0 comments

    Best bike of 2015.. Absolutely love everything about it.
  7. DTM Industries

    Yamaha YZ450F (2006)

    0 comments

    The bike engine is stock, TBT racing suspension set up for my wait ,desert and sand dune riding , Scott's BRP sub mount kit, FMF mage bomb header and factory 4.1 muffler ,over sized front rotor kit, cryra bark busters, Mylers radiators , custom radiator's brace fabed from Moose racing brace , enduro engineering rotor fin, Moose racing cluch basket,Russell front brake line, Scorpion racing 3/16 skid plate, and more parts too come soon
  8. I'm doing Hare Scrambles/XC racing on a 2002 YZ250. I'm a 6'2" 190lb "Fast C Rider". I also play ride MX, and want to give racing MX/GP/Megacross a shot, but the forks are holding me back. For the rear end, I've set the race sag to 100mm. I had to add a lot of preload ("tightened the nut" about an inch), so my bike sag is less than ideal now, which I understand indicates I should try a stiffer rear spring. What are the handling effects of running this way? Simply setting the sag helped the bike's manners an amazing amount. I was terrified to jump this bike before setting sag (hello boner air!), but after, it is much easier. It launches neutrally on most jumps now. I'm running full soft (out) on high speed compression (helps the rear stay put on rooty hill climbs, etc), and a few clicks out from stock on the rest. RT calculator says to go from 4.8 kg/mm stock shock spring to 5.4 or 5.6 kg/mm. The front end is not going so well. I've changed the fork oil and have been playing with clickers and oil level. No matter what I try, the front end is still too harsh on small stuff, and far too soft on big stuff. Clicking them to the bottom is a regular thing in play riding as well as racing. I can also feel and see the forks spending most of their time at the bottom of the stroke. I'm very budget-oriented, so I'm thinking about going ahead with stiffer springs with the stock forks and valving. Is that a mistake? In addition to springs, should I buy a tanks kit? Gold valves? Drill my valves? Should I skip springs for the 2002 forks (KYB 46U), and instead shop for 2005 AOS forks (~$200), or the 2-3x pricier 2006 SSS forks, and then buy springs for those? Should I plan to pay for a revalve for these forks after a swap? I'm feeling more than a bit lost here LOL. 48mm fork swap thread: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1003475-figured-out-how-to-swap-07-48mm-sss-forks-into-03-yz250/ RT calculator says to go from 0.43 kg/mm stock fork springs to 0.48 or 0.50 kg/mm. Same rate but different size/part number for 05 or 06+ forks. Photos of the bike, to keep this interesting:
  9. Deftone

    KTM 525 EXC-G (2007)

    0 comments

    Awesome.
  10. IamRooster151

    Yamaha YZ250 (2014)

    0 comments

    Great all around bike, from mx to offload, competition to recreation. Easy to maintain, plenty of power, light wight and "flickable".
  11. Dyno Data on TT You'd think dyno data would be all over the place in suspension forums comparing shim stacks, bike setups and year-to-year suspension tuning changes. Turns out dyno data is pretty rare. If you dig around there are a few dyno runs scattered through the TT suspension forum. This thread is an attempt to use the collective knowledge of TT to evaluate that dyno data and then try to figure out what the dyno data tells us, if anything, about how to tune a shim stack. Dyno data found so far: John Curea using the MxTech dyno posted a couple of dyno runs looking at a yz250 shock and a couple more dyno runs helping the Dogger tune his crf450 rebound stack. Valving Logic has a thread helping riders setup their suspension using a combination of dyno runs and test rides, and other threads looks at which stack is stiffer. Push Ind. Put out a sample EMA dyno run. MXScandinavia put out a great series of dyno tests looking at some of the basic shim stack tuning questions that come up around here all the time. Kawamaha posted some of his hydraulic dyno on TT. But some of his other dyno runs seem to have gone missing? If you know of any other dyno data here on TT? Post a link!
  12. BuckeyeGreve

    Husqvarna FC 250 (2015)

    0 comments

    New bike, so far so good. Off road hare scramble GNCC set up.
  13. Hey TTalk Suspension Gurus- I know a lot of the awesome crowd here at TTalk are into suspension tuning, and even more want to get into it. Twice a year, Race Tech's founder and author of the Motorcycle Suspension Bible, Paul Thede hosts a week long series of classes teaching the ins and outs of motorcycle suspension. Many of the top tuners got their start learning from Paul, and the classes are tailored to start from the ground up for the new tuner while still providing necessary and up to date info for the experienced tuners. Everyone from minibike dads, race team technicians, to the OEM engineers are often found in these classes. Also, stay tuned to TTalk in the coming weeks as we're working on putting together some details for a giveaway to the loyal TTalk visitors. We appreciate your passion for suspension tuning and are excited to have a lucky forum member join us for the seminars. The nuts and bolts: November 1-2: Suspension Theory Class November 3-4: Shop Skills Class November 5: Trackside Testing Class November 6-7: Advanced Suspension Class More details on each class, pricing, travel info and more can be found here. If you have more questions, feel free to post them here. If you want to sign up or ask questions privately, you may shoot me an email to chris@racetech.com or give our sales staff a call at 951.279.6655. *disclaimer: Sorry if this is a bit spammy - I try to limit posts like this, but felt there would be a lot of members here who would be excited and want to take advantage of this. Hopefully many of you will be excited for the upcoming contest and won't flame me too badly haha!
  14. jeff langlois

    Suzuki RMZ450 (2013)

    0 comments

    haven't ridden it yet, just picked it up! last owner liked it enough to buy a 2016..
  15. Ok I have spent a good last part of the month doing my research and really coming up with nothing. Many phone calls to different companies resulted in a very quick conversation to say the least. No one seemed like they wanted to help. As if this highly guarded secret of valving should only be for a select few. Then with the help of 2 board members. One gave me the basic info. and the other held my hand and so graciously took the time te explain how everything worked no matter how dumb the questions.(Thanks so much guys!) Also please feel free to chime in if I am not explaining something correctly! Now remember that I am valving for a 6'8" 265lbs +30 Vet rider. The fork springs are .54kg and shock spring 6.4kg and this is a base starting point for me but should work also for others +/- a hundred shims. Most all suspension tuners use a standard valve stack that they have come to feel is good for most and then re-spring and adjust the oil height accordingly Parts List FC Oil Lock Collars FC Kashima Floating Pistons Loc-Tite RED PC-03 grease for O-rings and bushings Maxima Racing 5wt Fork Oil Inner and Outer So over the next week as I get the time I will post my progress and detail it as much as I can. I am not going to go through the basics of removing the forks and taking them apart. You can get all that info. in the Honda Service Manual. If you can not do that then maybe you should not proceed. Once you have the forks broken down into the basics and oil drained you can start w/ the base valve. First order of business is to remove the nut on the end that has been peened. Using a 10mm I slowly backed the nut almost off. I then tighented down and used a very fine hand file and worked around the upper most thread. Take your time here. This is probally the toughest part of this whole re-valve. Once the peening is removed you should be able to removed the nut fairly easy. Now have some zip-ties ready to stack the part onto as they are removed. (If you have trouble getting the piston off then you need to file some more. Put the nut back on and be careful starting the threads. Lightly tighten it down and file some more. Now that the piston comes off easy continue removing the rest of the peices and adding then in the correct order to the zip-tie. Now take you zip-tie(s) inside and sit down at the table and lay a clean rag out and now lay all the peice out in order so you can see what you have and clean the parts making sure not to leave grit or lint. Some of your numbers will vary due to production dates. You should now have some thing that looks like this laided out. After removing shims I will be adding 4,30x.10 shims to the stack ( this should stiffen it up on the compression )and removing shims 28,26,24,22,20.(This will make it plusher) These shims will be reversed stacked to form a V. This will allow for some more deflection. The OEM will be stacked like this After changing the stack you will get this Looking close at the 2 pics you can see how the removed shims were reversed and stacked at the bottom to form a V. Fork Springs .54kg Oil 380cc Base Valve OEM # of Shims O.D. x Shim Thickness Compression 16 30 x 0.10 1 29 x 0.10 1 28 x 0.10 1 27 x 0.10 1 26 x 0.10 1 25 x 0.10 1 24 x 0.10 1 23 x 0.10 1 22 x 0.10 1 21 x 0.10 1 20 x 0.10 1 19 x 0.10 1 18 x 0.10 Base Valve Modified # of Shims O.D. x Shim Thickness Compression 20 30 x 0.10 1 29 x 0.10 1 27 x 0.10 1 25 x 0.10 1 23 x 0.10 1 21 x 0.10 1 19 x 0.10 1 20 x 0.10 1 22 x 0.10 1 24 x 0.10 1 26 x 0.10 1 28 x 0.10 Once you have the shim stack reordered...transfer it back onto the base valve and make sure to use some red Loc-Tite on the threads. Do not peen them over again as more than likely once you understand whats going on you will be back in the forks to make some adjustments.. Tomorrow I will post the Mid-Valve followed by the shock. So far this has been pretty easy. I will try and put together How-it-Works for each part modified. So there will be a better understanding of the fuction. it is late here and I am tired so I post tomorrow theDogger
  16. To the moderator.. you can close this topic if I'm blind in what I'm seeing. I have been to four MX events indoor and outdoor and obviously tv events. When the pro-riders get on their bikes and get ready at the start. I swear that seat is dropping a lot more then my bike (looks plush) and I know I have my sag right, but it doesn't seem to be as plush ... Now.... am I seeing things or does the pro-riders bikes have more action in the rear?
  17. Winters

    Honda CRF450R (2015)

    0 comments

    Looks great and love the mapping on bars but I am a very horrible rider so can not really tell but I think I like my 2002 cr250r clapped out 2 stroke better so far. Trying to get use to it. Hope it gets to stay in garage because it is the newest bike I ever owned.
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