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Found 5,996 results

  1. Hello I've been having issue trying to pin down an exhaust to purchase I ride predominantly off road on my drz400e aus spec (exhaust noise non issue) and I've limited my chooses to an mrd zpro and a rs3 full system Does the mrd shift the torque so the pull starts later not sooner due to it being free flowing Is the rs3 more suitable on dirt than a zpro Price Wise I can get the rs3 full system for $715AUD and the mrd Zpro is $788AUD Shipped+plus with all the extra bits In the future I will do some engine mods but before those will be suspension.
  2. Stewart brothers will be back to racing come Oakland (Feb 4th). They will be racing Suzuki's under their own team.
  3. I recently bought a 2017 rmz 250 and it won’t run, the bike will start up first or second kick, run for 30 seconds then shut off and I have no clue what it could be any help is appreciated thanks
  4. Hi guys, just looking for a new set of graphics and plastics for my bike, I have a 2012 ktm sx125. Does anyone have a specific place they aware by for graphics? Does anyone the the best place to get graphics? Thanks guys.
  5. So I have been riding for some time and am wondering if I should keep my current bike (2001 kx125 it has boysen carbon fiber reeds, Procircuit full exhaust with r304 sillencer, revalved suspension, and the typical woods bike accessory bark busters, flywheel weight etc. But I'm not sure if I should send my motor out to eric gorr and get it punched to a 144 and ported for low and mid. Or get a 2004 rm250 with a full procircuit exhaust and revalved suspension as my new woods race bike. What would you guys suggest?
  6. I’m new to this site but I’ve seen some other posts on here about SP370s that have been very helpful. My dad has had a ‘78 SP370 for over 17 years and he’s never heard it run. I wanted to get it running so I first cleaned out the tank which didn’t have that much rust but some really old gas. The I check ed the valves(they were in spec), set the points(they were a little off), and took off the carb to clean it out. The carb was pretty plugged up so I soaked it in chem dip over night and blew the parts out with air. When I put the carb back on, the bike started up on the 3rd kick. After a few seconds of reving it I tried to let it idle. It died and I couldn’t get it to start again. I’m stumped on what it could be. I have good spark, compression and the carb seems to be fine. Any ideas?
  7. I’m looking at this 1974 TS125 on Craigslist and I asked the guy for the vin so I could check it because he doesn’t have the title. But he said there isn’t a vin only a model number. Is this true? He sent me a picture of the tag on the steering stem. Did motorcycles not get vins until a certain year?
  8. I have a 1992 rm250 and I need a new exhaust , but I can’t find one for a 1992 so I was wandering what other years are compadable with eachother
  9. Need help or advice on picking a bike. My last bike was an 04crf250. So been off the bike a few years. My dilemma is a 2009 rmz450 or a 2012 kx450f or maybe even a 2014 yzf450. RMZ is from a dealership. Was owned and maintained by an apprentice who works there at the shop so I'm sure maintainence was kept up on it, however the guy is a racer so that bike has been through a lot however taken care of. Guy said the bike practically has a new engine and does have some mods, fmf full system, rekluse clutch and forks have been revalved for I believe 180 or 200lb rider, I am 150. And other small stuff. I think price OTD I can get it for is $3K or $$3200. 2012 kx450f. Don' know much about but seems bike has been taken care of decently. Has KYB suspension. No mods really. Just hand guards and pro taper handle bar. And that's really it. Guy said he is pretty firm on $3800 but I'm sure will take $3600 And then there is a 2014 YZF450 that I've had my eye on but don' really want a Yamaha unless someone can change my mind. Looks like it' in decent condition and guy is asking $3700. Any pros or cons to these bikes or personal experience that you guys can share? Thanks!
  10. Should I buy this bike my uncle just sold one and said in good condition they’re worth from $600 to $1200 and if I could get it for $300 it would be a good deal.
  11. As the title suggests, I've been debating the idea of throwing in a high compression piston. It will bump the compression in my 2014 KTM 350 XC-F from 13.5:1 to 14:1. First and foremost my main question is, because I live under 1000 ft and usually run 97 octane REC gas, will I have to change the fuel I run or not? Also, will I have to change out the cams to aftermarket and re-time the whole motor and ignition? I guess I really don't know what to expect so any advice will definitely help! Attached below is a photo of the bike I plan on putting it in.
  12. I have a 2006 ttr 125l, my rear shock leaks oil so I ordered a new shock, I was wondering if anyone can tell me how to do this or link me some kind of video, I cant find a good one for this bike, and do you know if an 06 ttr 125 has a compression rebound cylinder, and how do I take off the rear shock if it has this,?
  13. Hey guys, just asking if I can put a earlier z400 head on a later z400. My friend has a 2013 that needs a head but he wants only 600 for it.......
  14. Hey everyone, please bear with me here...So i just purchased a street legal 2002 suzuki dr200s from a "mutual" friend here in massachusetts, and im thinking ive gotten myself into a big pickle here. The bike was advertised as off road only as the title and reg could not be found, so i really didn't buy this having any plans to put on the road. For what i paid its a great trail bike and i figured if i felt like it i would try to apply for a new title with the mass saftey dept.(i know i know. Never buy a street bike without a title, but i didnt think this would happen). After doing some research ive found some unsettling things. The kid i bought it from claimed he bought it from a 57 year old woman who bought it from the orig. Owner in 2010(it came with a copy of the original title, sales books, and a blank bill of sale supposably from her) and that she was suppose to be getting him a title but never got back to him, and that she claimed her registration was in the storage compartment but wasnt. After doing some research on her, i found that she passed away this last may, only 4 DAYS prior to when the kid's facebook says HE purchased the bike. However the bill of sale that was given to me was written out 14 days AFTER her death. I contacted the kid and mentioned this to him and he replied "thats probably why she never got back to me". OBVIOUSLY something isnt right here, and im thinking he knows more than he's telling me, even though he sold it as is with no title. Her obituary noted that she left behind several children, siblings, and a fiance. Now if im correct on my estate laws, if she had no will, only direct family/ heirs of the deceased can go to probate court and apply for a title to a vehicle, and i deffinetly dont think it could be done in 4 days. If i had to guess, it seems the fiance or someone sold the bike before the family/estate could get a hold of it. It doesn't show up as stolen with the police or any online check, SO what do i do? Again its not really getting a title that concerns me, but how do i find out if the bike was sold legally or not? Can i still get a title for this thing if it was/wasnt? even if it needs to be done in another state that doesnt require a title, is it do-able? Could there be some kind of hold on the vin? Am i going to get myself into any legal trouble by trying to title it, or even having it in general? I thought of reaching out to her relatives as i found them all on facebook but i dont want to be disrespectful in such a hard time and im afraid it will bring me trouble. Any advise is MUCH appreciated.
  15. Hey all , away on vacation and want to buy some hand guards for the drz while I’m out here options for the bars that actually mount are 7/8 and 1 - 1/8 since I’m not near the bike I’m not sure which size I need I’m running stock bars on a 2017 drz400 s any input is appreciated as always
  16. Okay so i bought a 2017 rmz450 last year and have never owned or messed with air forks but came into it open minded. After dicking with the front end for months and the fork seal blowing causing me to frame rake and wreck on a 70ft finish line jump. Ive decided to get the conversion kit to spring with my weight springs, and revalve on forks and rear spring while im off hurt and curious if anyone else has swapped or have info on whats better for the front forks? Ive tinkered with them on my track and cant seem to find a inbetween. That and i have the factory connection pump with the no air loss adapter and it would read different everytime i had set them and then checked them.
  17. Hi everyone, ive got an eighties PE 175 I’ve recently restored, which I’m running silkolene comp 2 premix which is ok, but I don’t think it’s really any good, although everyone raves how good it is for older dirtbikes. I was thinking of bel ray or Castro’s as I ran these on other bikes when I was younger ( more for the smell) I’m rebuilding the engine later in the year, and if it’s anything like the bodges I seen on the rest of the bike it will all need doing so I wanna run it something that wont kill everything. Thanks in advance
  18. I picked up a cheap ts250 as my first bike but i cant seem to identify it exactly. It's definitely a fixer-upper so knowing what year it is would be a help with parts! I Can't find the VIN anywhere though. All I did find was a 11 digit string on the neck and the motor that are the same. "TS2503-72946". It's got some carb issues that need fixed but i'm afraid to order parts and get the wrong ones. Thanks for any help!
  19. Hello, I have a 2012 RMZ250 that is shutting off whenever it wants too. Its not idle because I can be riding half throttle any gear and it will do it. It seems like it's bogging out. I cleaned the entire fuel system and got a new plug. It has a wiseco fuel management system and even after I tuned it its still doing it. Any suggestions or explanations would be a help
  20. Alright i'm totally bamboozled right now. I am not getting enough charge going back into the battery. Im only getting 11V-12.6V and I just replaced my stator. I burned up a couple coils in my original by installing a 55/60W bulb in my bike on accident. (I have the stock 30/35W bulb re-installed) After completing static testing everything checks out on my replacement stator. Its putting out the correct ohm readings in the Stator connector and my wires are insulated bc I get not reading on y2ground. The Voltage Regulator/Rectifier is testing correctly at .5 on all the y2y tests and 1.132 on the Red to B/W connecter. I did a dynamic test on the stator too and I was getting 22V AC at idle and it would shoot up to around 70ish volts AC when I gave it some RPMS. (Dont know the exact rpm dont have a tac) Ive checked all fuses in which all are good. All connectors seem to have good connections and I cant find any shorting wires or bad grounds connections. The battery is not the issue either. I need help ASAP please!
  21. Another topic on my rm125 project. I finally have my bike rideable. However it is to rich and plug's are expensive for this bike. I have stock jetting with a FMF gold series pipe and shorty spark arrestor. The needle is set halfway. I was considering dropping the needle down one knotch to lean it out but I was wondering if anyone else has gone through this problem and had any suggestions. Thanks in advance
  22. Good day, New to the forum. I bought an early 80's Suzuki Dr500 about a week ago as a project. It appears to have been a farm bike for some time and was treated as such ?. Firstly I should say that I have very little mechanical knowledge and experience with engines, carbs etc., and I probably bit off more than I can chew, but I am motivated to learn a bit more and hopefully, with all the help from forums like these, youtube and other sites, I will be able to have a running DR500 in a few months (or years). My purpose for the bike is not to do a full restoration to her original look, but rather get her mechanically sound. I did however start refurbishing the sun-burnt plastics etc. to keep as much of the Suzuki DR500 look as I can. Once i cleaned off all the dirt and oil from the bike, all the work that needed to be done (putting it mildly) started showing and I was surprised the bike even started. I'm talking cracked carb float bowl, oil leaks and "custom" quick fix repairs everwhere. After two quick rides around the block she refused to start again. There were just too many things that could have gone wrong and then I noticed the chain link was coming off as well, so decided to start taking her apart for full overhaul. It was that or probably death. So after a lot of talk I have a few questions: The frame number on the bike is one of those early 11-digit numbers (DR500 - 502522). I looked everywhere on the web, even found those pages of the old suzuki models, but they don't include the DR500 models. Those might be from England or Australia. BTW i'm in South Africa so ours probably have different numbers anyway. I would just like to pinpoint the year so I can order the correct manual, or would the 1981-1983 manual be sufficient? Secondly, I will probably have to buy a new carb, as original or secondhand parts for this bike are as scarce as chicken teeth in the southern parts of Africa. I don't want to spend a fortune so i am thinking of buying a carb that is available locally. Would a 34mm VM34-168 (Mikuni Copy) work for this bike? Should I consider a flatside and what size and would it even fit? I attached a few pics for those who would like a laugh ?.
  23. 1. Compression & rebound are pretty self-explanatory. Compression is when the suspension collapses/compresses and rebound is when it extends/rebounds. Most dirt/trail/enduro/mx bikes have adjustable (to a degree) suspensions. Generally the external adjustments include: low-speed compression (on forks & shocks), high-speed compression (usually only shocks), low-speed rebound (on forks & shocks) and spring preload (on forks & shocks). Internally damping is adjustable via shim stacks, bleed ports, pistons, etc… Generally low-speed compression and rebound are adjusted with what are known as "clickers" (on the DRZ they look like flat-headed screws, with only the head visible). When you adjust them, you move a needle (right in image below) that sits within an orifice (left in image below). Under low-speed movement of the suspension, some of the fluid inside moves through these orifices. By adjusting the clicker "IN" (generally clockwise) you partially close off that orifice. The more you adjust "IN" the more it closes the orifice. By closing the orifice, it takes more energy for the fluid to pass through because essentially you are making the orifice or hole smaller. So for compression it makes the suspension collapse slower (feels firmer) and for rebound it makes the suspension extend slower. The inverse is true when you adjust the clicker "OUT". It's important to note, that the range of these clickers is limited. If you find yourself at the limits of their adjustment, then you need to revalve the suspension. Spring rate, is a way to quantify a spring and it simply means the amount of force it takes to compress the spring x amount of inches. So a stock DRZ400S/SM rear spring is 5.5 kg/mm, meaning it takes 5.5 kg of force to compress the spring 1 mm. If the spring is linear, then it'll take an additional 5.5 kg to compress another mm and so on (11 kg for 2 mm, 16.5 kg for 3 mm, etc…). 2. At 230 lbs you need firmer springs both for the shock and forks. That'll run you around $200, no adjustment will compensate for springs that are way too soft for your weight. And no, adding more preload is not the answer… Then as far as re-valving, if you're a DIY kind of guy, you can make changes to improve the damping (I did myself). You will however need a few shims to make those changes as the stock valving is very soft.
  24. I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something. Required Tools: Set of Allen wrenches #3 Phillips screwdriver small flat head screwdriver 8 & 10 mm sockets 13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate) snap ring pliers gasket scraper compressed air Required Parts: New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00 Tube or can of RTV sealant Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil) 1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way. 2. Remove right side radiator cover. 3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic). 4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike. 5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off. 6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way. 7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below. 8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily. 9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here: 10. Remove the plastic gear. 11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here: 12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here: 13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover. 14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up. 15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect): 16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out. 17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13. 18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike. 19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly. 20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on. 21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt. 22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover. 23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant. 24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp. 25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw. 26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike. 27. You are done, go ride!
  25. EDIT "Rear hubs are all the same from 1992 to 2007 125 on up The 125s and 250s got the right hub as of 1990 but the bigger bikes didn't use them till 1992." KTM wheels FIT. I have had people asking me about this for quite some time now so I thought id throw this together. First YES KTM wheels fit. Rear hubs are all the same from 1990 to 2007 125 on up. Only difference is Cush drive or not and rim size. I now have 3 different KTM rear wheels that I run A 17” 18” and 19”. The 18” is from a 1995 LC4. The 19” is actually a tallen hub but its for a 2002 KTM 400. The 17 is from a 2004 4XX (don’t remember). I have take pics of all the different rear wheels on my bike to show. Notice that the 18” and 17” both have the cush drive hub. The spacers rotors and sprockets are all stock KTM. This is a direct bolt up fitment. Do note that the KTM rear rotor is the same size as a 400S/E 220mm. The 18” The 19” The 17”
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