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Found 6 results

  1. I have a 1997 cr125r and was just trying to see my options on a fork swap. I got the bike for a steal but the front end is trashed. The steering stops are destroyed, forks scratched, seals blown, bolts broke, and lugs smashed. Id imagine im not the first to try this so if there is an easy swap with a newer 250r I'd love to hear it. If it isn't so easy no big deal First post so sorry if i messed something up Thanks
  2. Hey guys, I have a 1969 (approximately) Honda Z50. It was given to me after my uncle died. He would ride it around the dirt lake road between our families houses with a beer in one hand and a cigarette hanging out of the side of his mouth laughing the entire way. If you've ever seen or owned a Z50, they are a little ridiculous. All I wanted when I was younger was to ride his mini bike but I never got the opportunity. After he died, it sat in his garage for a number of years until i eventually came to own it. Unfortunately after sitting for so long, it is not starting at the moment. In addition he was not much of a mechanic so it needs some serious TLC. I thought it would be a great honor to restore it in his name and put it back on those lake roads. I need help guys. I can figure my way out around a bike but I am a little curious where to start with this old hunk. I would be happy to get it running again but I am also looking at possibly engine swapping this little guy (80cc or 125cc) if possible. And I know what you're thinking, "waste of time.. or this idiot has too much time on your hands"......agreed but I think you can agree that would be pretty badass. And for the short amount of time this thing gets used it would be a fun little project for nights at the lake. If you have any advice on where exactly to start or if the engine swap is possible please let me know. Not looking to hear from any of you automatic 'nay-sayers,' have a little imagination and appeal to your younger 12 year old self. Thanks, Chip
  3. 1991 frame. Curious what the swap options are. Would a CR250 engine bolt in? Any other options?
  4. Hi. I'm sure this question has been answered many times over, but when I try and search, I can only find xr650l motors in xl600r frames. I have a complete 83 xl600r and 2000 xr650l rolling frame with a bad top end. I want to put the xl motor into the xr frame. I know I'm going to have switch the wiring harness and electronics... but what else am I going to need and what problems might I encounter. Could someone please point me in the right direction. Thank you.
  5. 2020 KLX300R Back on April 3rd I posted that I had ordered a new spring and would be installing it soon. This post is primarily for the beginners like me so it's a little long winded with the details most of you already know. Since I got my KLX the rear felt somewhat soft to me as I am about 190 all geared up. I started researching suspensions on TT and YouTube and learned a lot about shocks, preload, spring rates, sag, etc. I set my rider sag by turning the preload rings clockwise until I got the required sag (95 rider/32 static)(Note rider sag is typically calculated as 33% of total suspension travel thus 285/3 = 95). Even though the bike handled better the rear felt harsh since I had to turn the preload rings 9 full turns to get the required sag numbers. Note that the service manual says there is a prescribed range for preload, and believe it or not this was still within the acceptable range. (Service manual specifies that you measure from the top shock bolt center to top of spring.) I went to the Race Tech site and used their spring calculator for my bike, riding style, age, weight, etc. The calculator said my stock spring is 4.9 kg/mm, and suggested I need a 5.7 spring instead. They don't make a 5.7, so I looked for a 5.6 spring on eBay and ordered one. So here's how to swap out your shock spring. From memory, here's the tools you'll need: socket wrench, various sockets, specifically 14 mm, 17 mm, 8 mm, 5mm allen wrench for seat/side panels, breaker bar, torque wrench, open or box wrenches as needed. A bungee cord or string will help with the coolant reservoir. I used a brass punch and hammer to loosen/tighten the preload rings on the shock. A vise may be useful if you have one but I did it without. I used an automotive floor jack for raising the bike. (A bottle jack would not be stable enough). You may find a more creative way to lift and lower the bike. (I suppose you could put the bike on a stand and just lift/lower the rear wheel as needed for certain steps.)(Tip: with the floor jack have a block of wood maybe 10-12” long on the lifting pad so it will span perpendicular across both the lower frame rails. A 4x4 worked well for me) Procedure: It's not too bad really, even for a newb like me. Sorry I don’t have actual photos of my install but I was doing this process for the very first time and felt like I had my hands full already without stopping to take photos. Raise the bike with either the jack or on your bike stand so the rear wheel is hanging free with no weight on it. Be careful to support the bike from falling over. My stand feels very secure but the jack felt a little sketchy so I was cautious. Remove seat & side panels. Remove rear mud flap. Most all of the work here will be happening from the left side of the bike. Unbolt the 2 bolts (“A”) holding your coolant tank (“B”) and move it backwards a few inches for better access to the shock. This is where you'll want to tie it out of the way with either the bungee or string. I didn’t have to drain it just moved it out of the way. Be cautious here as you're very near the battery terminals/cables and don't want to short anything on them. I taped over them just in case. Spray the shock preload threads with WD40 before loosening. If the threads are dirty this would be a good time to either wire brush them or blow them off with compressed air if you have it. Sand and dirt make them much harder to turn freely. Now from the left side of the bike, loosen the upper ring by turning it counter-clockwise with the punch & hammer; once loose use your hand to spin it up as far as it will go. WARNING - you don't want to bung up these threads or your nitrogen cylinder with your screwdriver or punch; be careful, be patient, and it should come loose. Next grab the spring with your hands and manually turn the spring counter-clockwise which will turn the lower ring upward as well. If you can't grip it well enough bare-handed give the lock ring a turn or two with the hammer and punch then you can finish turning it by hand. Again, loosen it up as far as possible, this will eliminate all the preload on the spring. In case you're not very familiar with these shocks you'll note there is a flathead screw at the bottom of the shock (rebound adjustment clicker) and another screw at the top of the nitrogen canister (compression clicker). Do NOT remove these 2 screws. Loosen and remove the bolt/nut on the FRONT of the dog bones (see “A” below)(Kawasaki calls these tie rods). Do not remove the rear bolt/nut. Loosen and remove the bolt on the lower shock mount (“C” above”). Loosen and remove the upper shock bolt, this one is a little harder to reach. I used a deep socket with extension and had to kind of thread it among various hoses and wires to get on the bolt head. Keep in mind that the various linkage parts and shock have bushings/bearings in them so make sure you don't dislodge any of that when you disassemble the parts. Now the shock is free but won't come up and out the side cleanly. Refer to this YouTube vid by Dormany Road I posted in my earlier post. (His is a KLX250 but quite similar in shock removal process.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkYTkJNmeXI So if you're using the floor jack, gently lower the bike back to the ground so the rear wheel comes up to the fender. (Or if your bike is on a bike stand raise the rear wheel up toward the fender). Again be sure to support the bike so it's steady and does not fall. This motion will partially rotate the lower linkage (suspension rocker) and this will free up the shock from the lower linkage so you can lift it up and out the left side of the frame. Now that you have the shock free take it to a clean workbench or tabletop. The preload rings should be loose so finish spinning them up to the top of the threads. The spring should be quite loose. Some shocks will not be this way and require spring compressor tools to help with this, but on my bike this was not the case. Now to remove the spring itself I will refer you to the following YouTube instructions for the KYB shock, I found them very helpful and made the spring swap a piece of cake for me. The first few minutes is a Showa shock and is not applicable for our KYB shock. Watch for the KYB instructions at 3:44, note he's using a spring compressor but on my 300R I didn't need one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1puXrTD88VM Here's another one just for another perspective. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLZLcElWb7E Remember to make careful note of the order the components are installed so you can put them back the same way. I used a Race Tech spring and, just like the 2nd video showed, my new spring fit better with the smaller end up, and the collar on the bottom end. (Note the Race Tech logo and lettering will be upside down when installed this way). Our service manual calls for a stock preload of 108.5 mm as measured from the top mounting hole center to the top of the spring. So I spun the lower ring and spring top down to this level and loosely spun the locking ring down to touch it. Since I'm using a different spring rate I wasn't sure where to set the initial preload but thought the value in the manual would be a good place to start. Main thing is make sure the spring has a little preload on it so it can't jiggle or come loose from the mounting collar/cup. Now before installing everything back in the reverse order, this is a good time to inspect all the linkage, mounts, and shock bushings/bearings and make sure they are secure and have plenty of grease in them. Important torque values are: rear shock bolts upper and lower = 29 ft-lbs. Tie rod bolt = 61 ft-lbs. After putting it all back together and torqueing the bolts, check both your rider sag and static sag and adjust the preload rings to get them to spec (I shoot for 95 to 100 mm rider sag). If your spring is the right rate for your weight you should be able to get your sag close to this and still have around 25-35 mm static sag. Once your sag is set remember to tighten the locking ring with your hammer and punch. Hope this was helpful.
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