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Showing results for tags 'SwingarmsComponents'.
Found 33 results
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3 reviews
The Pro Circuit Link Arm was developed and designed to improve the bikes stability and weight balance front to rear while retaining cornering capabilities They are also more durable and cosmetically appealing than the stock units -
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New bike, so far so good. Off road hare scramble GNCC set up. -
2 comments
It has a very neutral chassis, turns very well but doesn't give much up in stability. The power is very linear and easy to use. If you wan't a hard-hitting 2 stroke, this isn't your bike. Even with the aggressive map switch and the powervalve adjuster turned in, it much more mellow than my Yz. Although the power may not be exciting, it's perfect for gnarly technical terrain. Stock forks were harsh on square-edge obstacles. The Pressure springs(small spring in the top of the fork) are known to be to stiff for most offroad riding. I had them changed out when the forks were revalved. E-start works flawlessly and starts the bike within a couple seconds when cold. Ergo's feel good to me...at 6'1", I was worried that it would feel to small to me, but that's not the case. The rear brake lever is a little low for most people, but I actually prefer it that way and it's adjustable anyway. Brakes themselves feel good, the front in particular is very strong. I don't feel they give up much to the Brembo's on the Ktm's. 40 hour update: replaced the stock rear tire within 20 hours and did the front at about the 35 hour point. I now have a tubliss front and rear, with a new rim in the front because of bad crash I had. In that crash, I also smashed the pipe, split a radiator hose, twisted both radiators, and popped the preload adjusters out of both forks. Beta fixed the forks free of charge, so no complaints there. Separate from that crash, the stock map switch is busted and I blew the fuse for the e-starter, although it blew in extremely wet conditions. The most likely culprit is the horn, it's a pretty common issue that's easy to fix. Also, the stock plastic is extremely brittle and easy to crack. -
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What's the point of owning it if I can't give it 5 stars?! Seriously, I'm new to the dirt bike world. I've had a Harley, but never played in the dirt. I bought the bike and I'm completely going through it, and making it a dual sport and street legal. The only thing I won't touch is the motor for now, as it was just overhauled before I got it. I think this bike will have more power than I need and will put a smile on my face every time I ride her. -
I've never seen it mentioned by anyone but is it worth the trouble to drill & tap the swing arm and maybe the link for grease fittings if you already have it off? It's easy enough and as long as it doesn't weaken the assembly, I don't see a problem with it. Is there enough "meat" on these parts to do this? I've never had mine off to look at it.
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Been trying to replace the swingarm bearings in my Honda (which the previous owner never did), and the bolt will not budge. I've tried heat, bashing it with a rubber mallet, hitting that mallet with a sledge, and it still doesn't want to budge! What can I do to get this thing out?!
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3 reviews
This shock link machined from quality 7075 aluminum and anodized Racing Red is longer and designed to lower the rear end which improves the chassis... -
3 reviews
Complete kits for rebuilding often neglected swingarm bearing areas All components included for a comprehensive rebuild, saves time and ensures minimal down time due to unavailability of a single component Kits feature parts made from OEM grade materials packaged for exact fit installations -
5 reviews
Includes lower shock bearing, seals and pin Restores rear suspension handling and control lost to worn or rusted lingage components Eliminates researching multiple part numbers Kit contains bearings, pins, collars and seals manufactured to OE specifications for a perfect fit An affordable solution to buying expensive OE components -
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Bulletproof tractor -
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Very like the ease to innitiate to this bike. Good suspension setup, nice handling but a little lack in power. I upgrade it throught the years with this : Suspension : Stiffer .46kg/mm Factory Connection fork springs, Factory Connection lowering link, thicker FF5 Factory Connection oil in the HSSD. So the bike is now more stable without sacrifying is handling Engine : C4MX ported cylinder head, Pro Circuit camshaft and complete valvetrain, Yoshimura RS4 full exhaust, Moto Tassinari Air4orce, TUF 43mm Throttle body insert, EBC HD clutch spring, Twin air filters, PC racing Pro seal, removed backfire screen with a remaped ECM by Eddie Sisneros. I have now a better response, strong power everywhere with a lot of overrev. Control : Renthal twinwall handlebar, Zeta rubber killer, Zeta fold back lever, Motion pro revolver throttle system, Motion pro grips, Tusk footpegs. Drive : DID VT2 Xring chain, Supersprox stealth 48 teeth rear sprocket, Supersprox 13 teeth front sprocket, Zeta axle blocs. Body : Custom plastics mix, Custom graphic kit, Factory FX B4 seat cover, Cycra full armor skid plate, Work connection Holeshot device, Work connection Radiators braces, Black rims, Red anodized look hubs, Michelin tire, Moose spokes set, Zeta, breather, clips, plugs, washer and cap. With all this upgrade the bike became a real beast on the track. -
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The best bike there is. -
2 reviews
The "Original" Link Guard Available for Most Bike Brands and Models Bike Model and Skid Plate Brand Specific Racer Designed & Supported Lightweight & Durable Quick & Easy to Install All Guards are Manufactured with Recycled Plastic Designed and Manufactured in Boise, Idaho USA -
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This bike has come along way from the stock POS Suzuki puts out, but really a solid mild bike turned into a ROCK SOLID fire breathing monster! I'm sure that I left some stuff out but it's been fun transforming this bike into something that I'm proud to own, and a big THANK YOU to all here at THUMPERTALK for helping me make this bike happen! Eric ps...MORE pics to come Of course I listed all my mods without using the "add mod" option. SHOOT!!! too late now, well here they are... CW 434 big bore Hot Cams Stage 2 intake and exhaust E header pipe w/ FMF Q exhaust FCR MX 39 carb ThumperTalk MCCT Free powre mod Shoria LFX14A2-BS12 battery (210 CCA!) Kickstart (just because) ThumperTalk Case covers (before they were "branded") IMS +1 shift lever dr650 clutch arm lever(shorter cable pull) IMS pro SS foot pegs Clarke 3.9 neutral tank Pingel petcock SSW short pull throttle tube w/ single cable ProTaper Pastrana FMX 1 1/8 bars w/ pillow top grips Zeta triple clamp w/tall risers Cycra probend handgaurds w/ Zeta inter-grated turn signals Acerbis Cyclops headlight Acerbis plasticsPoli-Sport plastics WER steering stabilizer Happy Trail skid plate Race Tech Gold valves GR-2 Race Tech .54 fork springs Race Tech 6.0 shock spring Topar rear disc guard KTM fork guard mod Galfer SS front and rear brake lines Galfer front wave rotor (18" 21" set up) Shinko Golden Boy 244 DOT trail tires (18" 21" set up) Michelin HD tubes Warp 9 SM wheel set w/ Conti force SM 120/70/17 150/70/17 Kytech bilet rear rack Happy Trail pannier racks Pazoma levers Unibiker radiator guards Silicone radiator hoses Pivot Works wheel bearings Pivot works suspension bearings Seal Savers fork portectors DRC edge tail light flush mount rear turn signals -
2011 CRF450, when I lift up on seat there's play in the rear linkage but it's hard to pinpoint where's the issue. What's the fix?
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1 review
Improves rear end hookup Greatly reduces braking bump hop Improves rear end stability Gives plusher ride through all gnarly terrain Smoothes out harsh mid-stroke Available in black -
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First bike. Engine was just rebuilt when bought. Tore down and replaced nearly all bearings and added aftermarket parts along the way. -
Synergy Seals Linkage and Swingarm Rebuild Kits
Bryan Bosch posted product in Swingarms & Components
2 reviews
Linkage / Swing Arm BUSHING AND O-RING replacement kit. Kit comes with bushings and o-rings for lever arm, pivot knuckle, and swing arm pivot. -
Hi all, I have been lurking the for a long time while I had my DR-350 and I recently upgraded to a DR-Z. I've asked a few questions here and gotten a lot of helpful advice. After reading through all of the FAQ sections and figuring out what I plan to do first, I have a question about the swing arm maintenence. I plan to pull the swing arm apart and replace worn parts and lube the assembly. I've read all the horor stories of frozen swing arm bolts and my bike is an 03 model and I have no idea if this was ever done so I'm afraid I may run into the issue. My question is, is it safe to apply a penetrating lube like CRC freeze off or even something like the ATF/ Acetone cocktail every night for a few weeks before I attempt this project or are there plastic bushings or seals (or any other component) that will be melted by doing this? I just want to get this done as quickly as possible so I dont have to be off of 2 wheels for too long and I figure I can continue to ride and just apply lube to the area regurally to get a jump on any corrosion that may exist, ACE.
