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Found 8 results

  1. skaiter1007

    Honda CRF450X (2006)

    0 comments

    great bike, tons of power, dual sport capable (and mine is) a little on the heavy side, but i'll get used to it and stronger for controlling the beast that it is haha
  2. I have a 2008 klx450r that I bought used last year. 3rd owner. First guy had the bike shop install a baja designs blinker/kill/headlight switch along with turn signals and rear brake light. I want to add a keyed ignition/kill switch. I bought the baja part I need from TT and it seems a simple fit...but it doesn't work. I have contacted Baja and they don't know whats wrong. There was a product change recently so that might be the problem. Has anyone on here added the ignition switch to their bike?
  3. gomarshoif

    Honda XR200R (1983)

    0 comments

    Excellent trail bike. low end torque and low gear allow for easy hill and mountain climbing. Lower seat height great for smaller riders. Weight to power ratio is perfect.
  4. halo.spaceboy

    Husaberg FS570 (2011)

    0 comments

    Review: Once I got it setup how I wanted it... it became the best bike I have owned. 6-speed, Fuel injected, 250lbs, 56.5 stock WHP(I have the dyno), full suspension (yes, it is identical to FE setup), hydraulic clutch, brembo brakes, and everything is made to be disassembled trackside. No complaints! People think that the range on it is bad. Most riders fill up every 100 miles and this can do that plus some on a tank. I am a little bit frustrated that there is no tripometer, There is an aftermarket switch you can get (speedo dependent.. http://www.ktm-parts.com/54814073000.html).. but i never did. Instead I bought a Trail Tech.. it is easy to setup and I got a great deal on a voyager. Trail Techs can connect right to the factory speedo sensor so that was easy and it will give you a tach too! I need to point out that everyone thinks there is a problem with parts availability.. wake up, its 2016 & we have the internet now. Here are some of the regular places I go to for parts: http://www.husabergshop.se/ (good KTM part number reference) http://www.ktm-parts.com/ (I get a lot of stuff here) http://www.gunnisonmotorsports.com/aboutus.htm http://slavensracing.com/ https://www.brpmoto.com/ http://www.enduroeng.com/ Maintenance: 1. Valve shims. You probably will have to shim the valves after the breakin.. after that, they have not moved.. 2. Oil Change frequency is no different than any other KTM/MXer. Everyone looking to go to this bike complains about oil change frequency... STOP TRYING TO COMMUTE on this thing. You easily can.. and sometimes I do... but I know that i will have to change the oil. This is not a daily commuter, it is a daily monster. There is a reason why honda civics go for 10k miles without an oil change.. they are commuter vehicles, that is their thing. If you want a commuter bike, buy a DRZ (I love my DRZs BTW). Also.. yes, motorex and KTM filters are expensive but you dont HAVE to use them. There are alternative filters however the alternate oil options that you SHOULD use are also expensive. Necessary/Recommended upgrades and Known issues: ***Dont buy a piggyback/parallel unit such as the dynojet/JD tuner/bazzaz.. I tried the JDJetting one and it was very disappointing. I still have it.. sitting in a box somewhere.. what a waste. Instead, just do the below... 1. US Model runs lean as hell stock.. .. remove the evap canister .. talk to Fritz Kadlec(the owner) and send him your ECU to flash with the competition map. This is night and day. 2. Get the timing/ignition map switch.. KTM/Berg factory is good.. or the TT Online one. Set it to 'wild' and you might as well forget about it. 3. Get a full pipe. The factory exhaust is very restrictive. I have FMF megabomb setup.. it is cheaper and has only a fraction of less gain than AK. 4. DNA Air Filter.. dont mess with the twin air and so on.. just get DNA, it is the best and is as easy to maintain as a K&N. (have to order from EU) 5. Everyone says the factory fuel pump is crap.. rumor always seems to be that it is dues to excessive heat. I am not sure I believe that. Regardless, I had a B$%^$ of a time with the pump. Bike would run awesome, then randomly die while riding. After power off/on, fuel pump doesn't prime. Replaced the pump with CACycleWorks & same thing. CA Cycleworks sent me another one for free (something about the heat index testing may not have been done on the one I received). No worries.. after getting it all back together. Similar problem. Long story short, I soldered the leads to the fuel pump on, never had an issue since. I dont know why it is good now.. just know that the bike vibrates pretty hard while under throttle. It has been almost 3 years without issue. 6. The bike is hot.. and runs hot. Use track coolant.. (watterwetter, engineice.. etc) Dont use normal fluids, it doesn't work as well. KTM makes a fan kit for it. I recommend it otherwise you will probably boil your radiator over (depending where you live). 7. Boiling over your radiator onto the road? See #7 and maybe get a motion pro or similar coolant catch canister. 8. Have some spare fasteners laying around. (I did mention this thing shakes, right?) 9. The seat is a wooden plank. There are some options from www.fishersaddlebags.com/ or seatconcepts.com/ but they are ugly as f#%@ 10. I did get a bigger rear sprocket because I just wanted more low end launch. I can still go 100 MPH easily and it pulls hard up hills through 5th now.
  5. Denver Mike

    Honda CRF450R (2004)

    0 comments

    Its a 10 year old motocross bike, with very low hours. Perfect for an Enduro conversion. This bike astounds me. One day I'm riding MX on a track, the next I'm riding in the desert on single track. Its unstoppable, and just so easy and forgiving. I love this bike.
  6. I just installed the OE front brake micro-switch on my 2014 XC-W. It's stock switch on the EXC and all of the front brake perch part numbers are common between the XC-W and EXC. As you can see in the picture, the brake lever comes nowhere near engaging the switch. Even with the lever adjusted fully away from the bar (which would be too far for me to reach comfortably), there is still air between the lever and the switch. Obviously, applying the front brake pulls the lever further from the switch. I know I can use a hydraulic banjo switch but I already bought this OE switch and I wonder if there's an adjustment I'm over looking? The picture below is the brake lever at rest. TIA.
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