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Found 87 results

  1. Ripping your valve stem out is a terrible way to end your ride. Try this next tire change: when tightening the rim lock, (especially on a fresh new tire) make sure to re-tighten it after a bit of riding. The rim lock will "bite" into the tire slightly after a few stops and starts. Tightening about 80-90% followed by re-tightening will increase the "bite", more than one extreme torque job. Rims can be deformed quite badly from over tightening rim locks. If very low psi/run-flat ability is desired, using two rim locks spaced 180 degrees (opposite each other) on the rim is the best option. For extreme cases like competition hill climbs and sand drags, some racers will drill six or more holes through the rim flange and screw the tire bead to the flange with sheet metal screws. Usually this is only required with lots of HP and traction. Roost with confidence! 👍
  2. 1 review

    Heavy-duty tubes made specifically for off-road and motocross European made, these are the sturdiest, highest quality tubes on the market 3mm thick natural rubber construction helps resist pinch flats Imported
  3. 2 reviews

    Made specifically for MX or off-road use Heavy-duty tubes are 1.5 mm thick to be more durable than standard tubes Extra heavy-duty tubes are 2.5 mm thick to offer superb durability in extreme conditions; nearly twice as strong as heavy-duty tube Both use synthetic rubber construction that offers excellent strength and will not allow air to leak like natural rubber
  4. 2 comments

    It has a very neutral chassis, turns very well but doesn't give much up in stability. The power is very linear and easy to use. If you wan't a hard-hitting 2 stroke, this isn't your bike. Even with the aggressive map switch and the powervalve adjuster turned in, it much more mellow than my Yz. Although the power may not be exciting, it's perfect for gnarly technical terrain. Stock forks were harsh on square-edge obstacles. The Pressure springs(small spring in the top of the fork) are known to be to stiff for most offroad riding. I had them changed out when the forks were revalved. E-start works flawlessly and starts the bike within a couple seconds when cold. Ergo's feel good to me...at 6'1", I was worried that it would feel to small to me, but that's not the case. The rear brake lever is a little low for most people, but I actually prefer it that way and it's adjustable anyway. Brakes themselves feel good, the front in particular is very strong. I don't feel they give up much to the Brembo's on the Ktm's. 40 hour update: replaced the stock rear tire within 20 hours and did the front at about the 35 hour point. I now have a tubliss front and rear, with a new rim in the front because of bad crash I had. In that crash, I also smashed the pipe, split a radiator hose, twisted both radiators, and popped the preload adjusters out of both forks. Beta fixed the forks free of charge, so no complaints there. Separate from that crash, the stock map switch is busted and I blew the fuse for the e-starter, although it blew in extremely wet conditions. The most likely culprit is the horn, it's a pretty common issue that's easy to fix. Also, the stock plastic is extremely brittle and easy to crack.
  5. 0 comments

    Very light and nimble, great ergos, inspires confidence and makes you want to ride every day. The versatility of the bike is almost unbelievable considering it's only a 150. It has great low end grunt, a midrange that is all about maintaining traction, and a top end that will shock your buddies on bigger bikes. It can be ridden off the pipe with great effectiveness (especially helpful on those slippery days) or it can be ridden like a rocket on the pipe. It resists stalling as well as any bike I've ever owned...and I've owned a LOT! I get 3.5 hours of moderately hard riding per tank of fuel, so the range is among the best in the business. Now the bad news. As delivered the bike does have a couple of serious flaws, but they are easily fixed. The stock reed cage is junk. Replace it immediately with a V-force or Boyesen and you'll never have another worry. The progressive stock power valve spring is not well liked, and most guys replace it with the alternate straight-rate yellow spring. Some even prefer the red spring (from the 250/300's). Once you address the above items (and I recommend doing both before moving on to the next issue) you will still find that the jetting is horribly rich. This MUST be corrected early or you will be buying lots of spark plugs. Don't worry, the Mikuni is a great carb, it just needs to be jetted correctly. Once done you will be rewarded with phenomenal performance.
  6. 0 comments

    Love the bike. Complete rebuild/restoration ($4000 or so). The 2nd/5th gears and 14R/48 sprockets are great choices. I love the look I've ended up with and couldn't be happier with the ride on and off road. Great bike for me.
  7. 0 comments

    This is a great bike. It is comfortable, handles well, and has decent power. Not much is available aftermarket.
  8. 0 comments

    This bike suits my riding perfectly. With a tooth down on the front sprocket, this bike loves super tight single track, more technical the better. After playing with the stock suspension adjustments it tracks great even on the rockiest, wet rooted trails. Can't say enough good things about this bike. With typical maintenance and stainless steel intake valves swap, the bike has a long life ahead of it on the PA mountains.
  9. Hey I was wondering if anybody knew of a good tire to run in the front for a tubliss system. I keep getting flats riding over rocks on my KTM 200exc. I ride woods, The tires keep slashing and puncturing. At this point I feel that the front tube at 13psi was much better. I think Maxxis IT dessert should be good but they are heavy and hard. Are they the only good tires for this application?
  10. Hey gang, I made the leap to a tubeless conversion from Nuetech TuBliss today. (inner tubes are so archaic) My experience thus far is positive and here are some notes and thoughts... 1--Unexpectedly, the front tire was much harder to do than the rear due to less interior volume 2--The "rim lock" for the front is a little too wide for my stock "S" front rim with a 90/90-21 Michelin T63. You can see it pushing out the sidewall a little. If I had have noticed this earlier I probably would have "modded" the aluminum rim lock to be a little less wide. Maybe next time 3--Though it did not really matter--make sure you are drilling out your rim lock hole and not your valve stem hole. I did my first one wrong way but all still fits fine, just makes the front and rear mis-match 4--I have many nice sets of drill bits, none of them had the 7/16th" bit included. 3/8" and a rat tail file worked easily. 5--Powder, talc, the bladder tube and inner liner up real good. Makes aligning 2 separate valves much much easier 6--Lube, lube, lube--Nuetech recommends using soapy water to keep the rubber parts from binding against one another. I was trying to do without as I was going to add a sealant and did not want to cross-contaminate but it was hopeless. I ended up using 90% isopropyl alcohol because I knew it would evaporate. 7--I had a very hard time getting the front tire to "jump up" out of the drop center of the rim and onto the bead in one particularly stubborn spot. Even at over 70 psi in the tire chamber and 140 psi in the inner bladder it just would not go. Reluctantly I shot a little bit of WD in the tough spot and it popped up immediately. The rear went on and up onto the bead easily and immediately. 8--I chose to add Stans No Tubes tire sealant to them. Stans sealant is a very low viscosity and it allows you to inject it through the valve very easily after the install. Also Stans No Tubes sealant does not freeze. It is a non-fibrous latex based sealant that will not only self-seal punctures up to 1/4" but also lays down a layer of rubber to the inside of the tire and its pores--rendering a regular "tube type" tire more airtight. I have much experience, and very good luck using this product in my bicycles tubeless wheels and thought it would also be good in the Moto and definitely worth a try. 9--The tires feel great without the extra layer of redundant rubber in them. Noticeably more supple--and that was at my normal ~15 psi. Many claim to run far far lower than that. Which I will be trying more in the future. 10--The balance was definitely required. I rode them prior to doing a static balance...man it was bad! I guess the double "valves" and rim-lock etc are a bit weighty. I plan on adding some spoke weights and suspect it will take 2-4 ounces of weight per wheel. (I just went and bought weights, will report back on actual figures) As a lifelong bicycle mechanic I had very little trouble installing the whole setup and was actually shocked that it worked. Seemed kind of boot-leg in theory, like a janky rig-job. But in actuality all of the components of the system are pretty clever and work well. Again, shocked that it went on so easily and worked first try perfectly. I was totally expecting to have to troubleshoot and fix the system, but that was not the case. Also as a lifelong bike tech--I have a real distaste for changing inner tubes so making the leap to tubeless was not a real hard sell to me. And I am also a believer that very low PSI is of a major benefit, especially without the risk of pinch flat or rim-denting. As of now--I would recommend and am fairly pumped about the tubeless potential! Who else is using these things? What PSI do you like, and how much do you weigh? How much weight did you have to add to get them to balance? Or chime in otherwise with feedback and experience. Hope you enjoyed this...I was just fulfilling my TT duty to share Edit--1 day later: Wheels required about 6 oz (a ton) each of weight to be brought into balance, almost all the weight is needed directly across from the "low pressure/rim lock" valve. Considering most spoke weights are >1-oz this can look ugly pretty quick. And I guess if you were being a real weight weenie and taking into account the advertised weight savings of <1 lb.....well factor this in!! (BTW-the balance was done by a professional mechanic on a Snap-on dynamic balancer--not just the DIY jack stand at home trick) I had ten 2/3 oz. weights on hand and it was not enough, so we also had to add some stick on weights which do not really work so great on spoked rims. I am seeking a spoke weight solution in the meantime.
  11. I'm about to break this rim because I am angry. How and the he'll am I supposed to get my front tire off with the bib in it? Bib went to hell I have a race in 24 hours. All shops are closed and I only have 1 freaking spoon with me. Any ideas?
  12. I've been doing some research on the tubliss system and havent found very many negatives. What's everyone's opinion here on TT?
  13. Getting ready to change my rear tire on my xr4 and was wondering if the "heavy duty" tubes are worth the extra money to prevent leaks? Anyone had success with these tubes? I have had 2 flats on the rear in about two years and its really annoying to have to pull off the rear wheel and patch the tube and also it doesn't sound like fun to be stranded in the middle of know where lol.
  14. 1 review

    Bulletproof and nitrogen charged performance creates a lively feel. Lasts at least twice as long as every other mousse available. 100% flat-proof performance. See the Nuetech Mousse Tire Fitment Guide in the Documnets link next to the Questions and Answers tab above to find the match for your specific tire. Please note that the Mousse does not always match the tire size you a using. To find the correct size Mousse please find your tire on the list and it will show you our part # to use.
  15. 1 review

    Size available: Front size: 90/90/21 - 80/100/21 Rear size: 140/80/18 - 120/90/18 Technical data Front Weight: 940 gr. Rear Weight: 1620 gr. (140/80/18) 1400 gr. (120/90/18) Front pressure: 0,7 / 0,8 bar Rear pressure: 0,6 / 0,7 bar INFORMATION • Technomousse doesn’t break or get cut and has no due date. • The materials used are totally innovative and different from the products of other brands. • The degree of hardness of the mousse varies depending on its use and temperature. • The mousse reaches its maximum elasticity after some minutes of use (the amount of minutes taken can vary depending on the exterior temperature). When at rest the mousse goes back to the original hardness. • After its use we recommend all the users to leave the bike at rest over a central bike stand for at least 45 minutes in order that the mousse gains back its original hardness. • We suggest users to use the tyre spinning stopper for the rear mousse. • The mousse are not homologated for public asphalt road use. The use it is prohibited in asphalt road, and the company don’t have a responsablity if you use in asphalt roads. • The TECHNOMOUSSE being made from a very elastic material, during its use it adapts and fills the entirely the space between the tyre and wheel. During the substitution of both the front and rear tyre you will find the mousse in a different final shape. After the substitution with a new tyre the mousse will again adapt to the new tyre.
  16. SS109

    Gas Gas XC 250 (2011)


    This is actually a 2011 GasGas EC250 Racing and not an XC. Anyway... Last of the small framed GG's! These bikes fit my short self better than any other bike I have ever ridden. Really like the styling and the little details that most don't think about that this bike has. OEM it comes with a hydraulic clutch, dual ignition mapping, Galfer rotors, Vforce III reeds, 2k3 stator, an actually useful headlight, and a lot of smaller details. I'm really loving the 48mm PFP Zokes up front and the Ohlins 888 shock. The forks are plush without feeling mushy and vague. The shock, well, it's Ohlins! Just dial it in and it works great everywhere. This bike has a lot of bells and whistles added by it's previous owner (Thanks Ricky D!) along with a ton of extra parts when they're needed. Currently equipped... BRP bar isolators/Scotts damper setup, Renthal twin walls, Fastway barkbusters w/Cycra shields, MSR pegs, Lectron carb, Rekluse Core EXP 3.0 w/matching billet clutch basket, Emperor Racing radiator cages, RB head mod, LTR powervalve cover, FMF Gnarly pipe and Q4 Stealth silencer, carbon fiber pipe guard, Renthal 13t CS sprocket, Supersprox 48t rear sprocket, No Toil dual layer air filter, Twin Air billet air filter cage, bib mousses front and rear, Kenda Parker DT's front and rear, and I'm sure I'm forgetting a thing or two! Now, for the only things I don't like. The seat reminds me of a KTM it is so hard but instead of a 2x4 like KTM it feels more like a 2x6! 🙄 The other is how the air filter locates on the air box. You have to be really careful to get it seated correctly. Next mods for me are Tubliss on both ends and Goldentyre Fatty 90/100 up front and a Shinko 525 cheater 120/100 rear. Also have some smaller diameter Scott Deuce grips coming as well. Hopefully this will complete the mods I want to make and I'll be ready for the upcoming AMRA racing season. Overall, I'm really loving this bike and thinking I will be enjoying it for years to come.
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