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Showing results for tags 'UfoPlastics'.
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Actually a 2009 model. Not a bad machine. Bad bits; radiators are easy to damage, even with 'gaurds'. Suspension is pretty average, stock. Suspension linkage needs greasing more than average due to a bad seal design. A bit heavy, and not real nimble. Good bits; Tons of power, easy to work on. E-start (plus kick) I don't mean to make it sound bad, it's a pretty decent bike, a few small mods and some different tires (pirelli's instead of michelin) and it's starting to work well now. I'm happy with it. With gold valves fitted front and rear, cutting the bars down a bit and setting the front springs a couple of grooves softer, it's turning much better now and doesn't feel quite so big and clumsy. Just need to sort the rider out now 🙄 -
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I have a 1989yz250wr which is the same as a yz250 besides the wide ratio transmission , i was wondering if there are any newer plastics that will fit right on or with little modification so i can give my bike and updated look, main things are the front and rear fenders but would also like to see what else could be changed. here are some pics of what model my bike is the pics are not my bike though i just got them off google for an example.
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GENERAL INFORMATION TUF Velocity Stack is an alloy tube that needs to be installed in the throttle body of the Fuel Injection system. The light weight alloy tube is specially designed and developed to adjust flow so that the engine gets improved bottom power at part openings, plus better and smoother throttle response without re-mapping the ECU.- 1 review
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Recently I sold my CRF250L due to taking a new job with a 104 mile daily commute. I again almost purchased the WR250 but I decided if highway comfort, simplicity, and displacement were my prime concerns that the WR would still not fit my needs. Out of the shop I noticed that it was idling too low and stalling quite a bit. The bike easily reached 80mph for my ride home even though at this speed the vibrations were killer. I rode on it untouched for about 2 weeks and practically paid for expedited shipping from seat concepts. My other first impression of the bike was wondering where they had time to go to home depot and replace the seat with a 4x4 post. The other complaints were the rubber mounted stock pegs that made you feel like you would slip off standing up and the cramped peg location in relation to the seat and the bars. I mean it is cramped for me at 5' 8" 29 inch inseam. Where my last bike became far more fun in the woods the DR felt... a bit much to handle. The stock tires earned their reputation of the name of deathwings being far less capable than the GP22's that came stock on the 250L, yes I missed the GP22's. The rear suspension was thankfully significantly better and only required some dampening adjustment. The front suspension comparatively to the 250L was far far far worse. If you were to mix the rear stock suspension of the 250L with the front of the 650 you would have created the most poorly suspended bike conceived by man. After going from my Racetech setup on the 250L back to whatever Suzuki calls suspension I felt a bit cheated. Now here came the real test was a 329 mile back roads ride from Austin to DFW and back. (my preferred motorcycle proving ground) The average speed limit was still 75 posted and same as last time I was glad I invested in my seat concepts low seat. The bike easily plodded along at 70 - 90 mph with little complaint or trouble minus a bit of excess arm pump and vibration in my right hand. In strong cross winds the DR650 was a bit better planted but the front end due I guess to its horrifically poorly designed nature introduced more wobble than the 250L and with tucking down in wind made the ride a bit harrowing. This go around I was shy on cash and spent my first $270 on bars, grips, seat, and peg lowering kit from JNS engineering. (I also sprung for a 16T front sprocket to mitigate vibration at high speed) I could not repeat could not have made any trip over 50 miles on the stock garbage seat without reconstructive surgery on my rear. The massive upside to this bike is the ease of work on it. A valve job for instance is 4 tools and about 3 hours of work and the best part is no shims just an old fashioned tappet adjuster. The other real test was arriving at my old stomping grounds in Decatur TX at rocky ridge. This is where the 650 showed me all of it's additional weight feeling nearly unwieldy with the exception of its lower reach to the ground. My lap times which were 28 minutes modded 32 ish minutes stock on the 250L climbed up to 36 minutes on the 650 with the mixture of nearly unusable front suspension and god awful tires. At the minimum before another dirt trip this bike will have new tires and front springs. Stock for stock on the Street/ Highway the DR650 substantially outperforms the 250L but in the dirt the 250L is a good bit better for the job. As far as modding goes however I think I can achieve near if not better performance from the 650 with less money. Right off the bat for instance front and rear suspension will run about 600 to 700 less than a Racetech setup for the 250L so time will tell if this review flips. I had about $2400 into the 250L and as of this week about $307 into the 650, even if I go all out with suspension, pipe, and pumper carb I would only be out $1300. Food for thought. -
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I got this bike for super cheap. I have quite a bit of money into it now. Hot rods bottom end, jetted carb, boyeson rad valve, all new bearings and seals in whole bike, wiseco clutch with dirt digger plates, hydraulic clutch I pieced together(so much cheaper), pro circuit platinum 3 full exhaust, race tech gold valves with stiffer springs, geared 13-48. Still running an oem piston but on next rebuild that will change. Happened on an oem for super cheap so I stuck with that. I love this bike. Im going to try and keep it forever. Lol.-
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