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Found 5 results

  1. Hello guys. I just got a while ago a KLX650 1996 with about 34,000km. I was in the process of adjusting the valve clearance, they were really out of tolerance so I ordered new shims and when removing the camshaft I had the 2 tensionned mechanism removed (automatic camshaft tensioner, and the spring tensioner bolt). I am now in the process of re-timing the camshafts but I'm not able to line up the EX and IN line properly, I always seem to be half a tooth off when positioning the crankshaft at TDC. Could it be that i've had the lower chain come out of timing? I might have turn the crankshaft with tensionners removed... I am including pictures of the camshaft marks and as you notice camera angle makes a difference but what are your thoughts? If i cannot put the marks right on spot, is it better to have the intake valve open half a tooth before, or half a tooth after? and what about the exhaust? Thanks Sebastien
  2. crfjunky1320

    Oil puddles in valve cover?

    Hey guys, just curious as i recently bought an older crf450 and I am doing my first valve replacement myself and as I pulled off the valve cover there was a large pool of oil around the springs. Spark plug is dry. Is oil in the valve cover normal? Trying to find any extra parts I might need to replace while I have the top end torn apart. Thanks!
  3. So recently had the chain ball up and bend my shift shaft on my WR, and figured it was time for maintenance. Compression was on the low side (well...the really low side), so start disassembly to build a list of parts to replace that's going to need replacing and aim going to pick up an Athena 290cc kit to slap it back together. Looks like the engine eat a timing chain at some point and beat up one of the chain guides, easy enough to replace. However it also looks like it may have allowed some debris into the oil system that collected in a cam cap (easy fix with a scotch brite) and far more worrisome into the wrist pin. See images below: Question becomes how worried should I be about the small end of the rod? Is this normal wear for 4t? I'm surprised to see they are like 2t units with needle bearings. Next question pertains Valves (Can of worms I'm sure). Should I stick with the Ti valves. I'm currently looking at the Kibblewhite units as they are about $50 cheaper than the OE Yamaha units. Or should I go ahead and switch the Stainless Steel units? Intake valves look okay, but the exhaust appear to be pretty much shot.
  4. jet_bunny

    New valve installation question

    Hey guys, so after pulling my engine apart to install a 434 BB kit I noticed that my valves are shot. Instinctively I lapped the valves before reading up on the fact that you should absolutely not lap the stock valves. Silly me. Anyway, I have some new Ferrera SS valves on the way but I have a question about the install. Will I need to have the seats cut by a shop to properly fit the new valves? I'm under the impression that due to the new valves being stainless, I can lap them without ruining anything. Will this be enough, or should I give the head and valves to a shop to have it properly cut? It's my first time installing new valves so I'm a bit lost and keep finding contradictory information. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Cheers
  5. Supermotofool

    Low Compression

    Alright TT Gentlemen.. I appreciate any and all who have commented on my posts, without TT and the knowledgeable people in it, things would have taken me much longer. Anyway, I was shimming my valves the other day,before I did it when I checked the clearance.. There was none. I couldnt fit my smallest feeler gauge between any of the valves and the bucket. both on intake and both on exhaust would not fit. I checked my compression before I did this, and it was only at 60/70 PSI which I know is far too low. Before I tear into the engine, I want to get everything I need.. so if A new piston is in store then so be it.. But would valves that have far too little clearance at TDC cause low compression when cranked? Thanks again guys! - Brad
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