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Found 41 results

  1. 2 reviews

    Race-proven technology Handlebar can be replaced without buying an entire new clip-on assembly because handlebar is not welded to clamp Clamp is CNC machined from a solid block of 7075 T-6 aluminum Choice of 0 Degree or 7 Degree bend Machined plastic bar ends and stainless steel fasteners Order by size of fork tube
  2. wallib

    Yamaha YZ250 (2007)


    really reliable, easy to maintain, modified for enduro
  3. 0 comments

    Great for all around riding with a couple of aftermarket parts its way more powerful. Wouldn't recommend any big bore kits though...
  4. 0 comments

    I bought this bike in 2009 for $1400 and it's been awesome! It has gone through two rebuilds and eventually ended up in its current dual sport (CA Street Legal) configuration.
  5. 0 comments

    Very like the ease to innitiate to this bike. Good suspension setup, nice handling but a little lack in power. I upgrade it throught the years with this : Suspension : Stiffer .46kg/mm Factory Connection fork springs, Factory Connection lowering link, thicker FF5 Factory Connection oil in the HSSD. So the bike is now more stable without sacrifying is handling Engine : C4MX ported cylinder head, Pro Circuit camshaft and complete valvetrain, Yoshimura RS4 full exhaust, Moto Tassinari Air4orce, TUF 43mm Throttle body insert, EBC HD clutch spring, Twin air filters, PC racing Pro seal, removed backfire screen with a remaped ECM by Eddie Sisneros. I have now a better response, strong power everywhere with a lot of overrev. Control : Renthal twinwall handlebar, Zeta rubber killer, Zeta fold back lever, Motion pro revolver throttle system, Motion pro grips, Tusk footpegs. Drive : DID VT2 Xring chain, Supersprox stealth 48 teeth rear sprocket, Supersprox 13 teeth front sprocket, Zeta axle blocs. Body : Custom plastics mix, Custom graphic kit, Factory FX B4 seat cover, Cycra full armor skid plate, Work connection Holeshot device, Work connection Radiators braces, Black rims, Red anodized look hubs, Michelin tire, Moose spokes set, Zeta, breather, clips, plugs, washer and cap. With all this upgrade the bike became a real beast on the track.
  6. 17FE450 , read my plug thread... sorry De smogged, reeds removed, fmf slip on, oem map switch, vortex tuner. I have always felt like this bike runs on the lean side, even after upgrades mentioned above. It's just feels like it heats up quickly and runs hotter than my other 4 strokes. All of the vortex trim switches are in the neutral (5) position. Map 1 (on the handlebars switch) is preset to vortex power map Map 2 on the bars is preset to vortex traction map The plug pictured has 30 hrs. Any 4 stroke guys out there want to throw in their .02c? Any down side to richening up the vortex 1 click each on low, mid, high?
  7. Look, We all know there are variables and facts that may or may not be included here. So lets hear it: Not sure whether to LOL, or scratch my head. Either way--aint getting rid of the Vortex! @Jeff aka Bolt, @StevetheSnake, @Spud786 https://www.facebook.com/randy.mann.509/posts/2224546647575703
  8. Hi everyone, first time posting. I have a 2012 yz450f Akro exhaust vortex ignition etc etc. I've searched everywhere and I'm aware the settings sheet is not available for whatever reason from vortex, my question is what settings is everyone running for these bikes? Is the map switch linier from switch position 1 through 0 in regards to power? Also fuel trims, I've found map setting 2 with all switches set on 2 is good for enduro doesnt foul the plug. What is everyone's thoughts? Also I'm an experienced performance mechanic, please don't post how your mum tuned your bike for you. Cheers everyone in advance!
  9. KTM 500 Aftermarket ECU/Tuner Review. Mike Spurgin at Tacomoto.co hooked me up and sent me both a Vortex and Athena GET ECU to test on my 19 KTM 500EXC. I already had a JD tuner on the bike so I was excited to try out the full replacement ECU's and see how they compare to the JD. On the 17 and up KTM's the factory ECU's are locked and cannot be re-mapped, this leaves you looking at aftermarket options to get your bike running correctly and realizing it's potential. I Wanted to share my thoughts on the different tuners with others who may be looking to pick up a ECU or Tuner themselves. One box of badassness that just arrived from Mike. My bike is set up with the following: *2019 KTM 500EXC *Fully De-smogged with reed valves removed. *FMF 4.1 Canister *14-52 Gearing *MT-21 front tire and MT-43 rear with Tubliss in each. I will preface this with the statement that I'm tuning by riding the bike (Seat of the pants) and I'm not monitoring the AF ratio. I'm not a professional rider or engine tuner but do have a LOT of time on bikes over the years. These are my thoughts and my results on how the tuners felt on my bike. I'm hoping to be able to get the 3 units on a Dyno to compare as well. First up the JD Tuner: The JD tuner is a piggy back tuner that modifies the signal coming from the stock ECU going to the injector to either add or remove fuel as needed. It's worthy of note that the JD tuner modifies the fuel signal only and can not modify the ignition timing as well like the GET and Vortex tuners, this presents some built in limitations as the JD will never be able to fully correct the side effects from the factory set ECU programming. The tuner allows you to change your fueling (manually) in real time to accommodate for riding conditions such as altitude, temperature or equipment changes to the bike. It can take some time to get used to the controls of the tuner but depending on where you mount the unit changes are performed quickly. Install of the tuner is pretty straight forward and includes power wires and OEM connectors to place the unit inline between the ECU and the Injector. The JD tuner is also the most cost effective fueling solution. Here's where the dealer installed the JD tuner on my bike...not the best spot for access. In this case you have to remove the right side plastics to get to the tuner. They could have easily mounted it on top of the battery to allow faster access. When I purchased the bike with 10hrs on the clock it already had the JD tuner installed and had been "Tuned" by the dealer where the original owner purchased it. The bike already had the 4.1 exhaust installed but had not been De-smogged. After the Desmog process it was time to test. The bike started hard at times and would stumble under throttle right after start up. This usually happened when cold but did happen a couple times when warm as well, the rest of the time the bike would fire right up and run normally. The bike would also flame out on occasion and popped during decel. I checked the settings and the tuner was set to lean for an open pipe, it was set for a stock exhaust (Green 4, Yellow 5/6, Red 6, Green/Blue 5, Yellow/Blue 4 and Red/Blue 4). I reset the tuner to the "factory" set point for a de-smogged bike with an open exhaust (Green 5, Yellow 6, Red 6/7, Green/Blue 6, Yellow/Blue 5 and Red/Blue 4). After the reset I took the bike out again and it did run better, seemed to pull harder off the bottom end and seemed to have quite a bit of snap on top. The starting issue persisted at times although less frequent and the popping on Decel was about the same. On the next few rides I played with the tuning, dialing in some more fuel on the "accelerator" pump setting and added a little to the bottom end as well chasing the decel popping. After numerous outings playing with the tuner the bike pulled hard and made a lot of power. The power seemed slightly abrupt off the bottom end (can be tamed somewhat by playing with the "accelerator pump" setting) but built good power through out the RPM range. The power never seemed completely linear to me and had spots that felt "Boggy" as you transitioned through the 1/4 throttle up to half settings. I was never able to completely eliminate the decel popping (I did check and no leaks at the exhaust were found contributing to the popping). In summary the JD tuner does an amazing job for the money, it transforms a stock bike into a power house compared to the stock ECU and with some more playing I think I could have dialed it in slightly better. If you travel with the bike or ride in drastically different climates or elevations you may have to re-visit the tuning to keep the bike spot on. Next up is the Athena GET RX1 Pro ECU (Green). The GET is a full replacement ECU and has quite a few options available over the JD unit. The GET comes with two maps pre loaded (Mike worked with Derek Harris of HP Racing Development to build the maps) and comes with a map switch so you can select between the maps while on the trail. Mike loaded mine with Map 1 set to Full On Honey Badger and Map 2 set to "Enduro" with a slightly softer bottom end. The GET also comes with an onboard WIFI unit that allows you to use your phone to tweak fuel and ignition changes in real time, check the bikes diagnostics and calibrate the TPS. You can change fueling +30% and -10% and ignition timing -30 Deg and +5 Deg. The GET has a barometric pressure sensor built in and will automatically compensate for altitude changes...nice! The GET also allows you to add their GPA Traction Control knob for use during slick condition. The GPA switch uses software to compare throttle settings with RPM and works to eliminate wheel spin by controlling the throttle faster than the rider can respond to wheel spin situations with their hand. There are 10 levels of traction control available at the touch of a dial. This unit is also fully water proof. Installation of the GET is really straight forward. You remove the OEM ecu then pull the ecu out of the factory rubber sleeve. Install the GET into the sleeve then re-install the GET just like the factory unit. Removing the Stock ECU. With the stock ECU removed the GET is installed in the factory rubber sleeve. The GET has a Barometric pressure sensor on the top of the ECU and the rubber sleeve covers it, the sleeve probably wouldn't have caused any issues but I cut a hole in the sleeve to ensure the sensor can function properly. Using a punch and a piece of wood to cut a breather hole for the pressure sensor. Back in the bike. You can see the WIFI module mounted over the battery with Velcro. Installed the GET Map switch. The switch is very robust and has a quality feel to it. Mounted the GPA Traction control knob to the bottom of the throttle assembly. This location is out of the way and allows quick access for adjustment. With the GET installed it's time to download the app and set up the WIFI. Setup went quickly following the included instructions. Once connected you can set up the profile for your bike. My bike set up in the app. Next up calibration of the TPS. The app makes this a quick and trouble free process. Here's the diagnostics tab...green means your good to go and no errors. Here's what the interface looks like for setting the fuel and ignition offsets. I'll leave everything at Zero or Factory settings for the first test. On the trail with the GET ECU. I have about 100 miles of both single and dual track on the ECU so far. The bike starts and idles spot on every time and I've yet to have to use the cold start knob (With outside temps down to 35 deg F). The popping on decel is completely gone, no popping while on long down hills or when abruptly chopping the throttle.....Nice! I experienced zero flame outs with the GET. Map 1 - Dialed is the word I'd use to describe this map. The power feels sooooo linear and smooth, there are no feelings of flat spots anywhere through out the throttle range. Power is Everywhere! Lofting the front end with throttle is super easy in 1st - 5th and requires little effort at the bars to loft in 6th as well. The power is predictable and I felt very connected to the bike. It may be just a tad lean at very light throttle settings when cruising at a steady speed around 35-40mph on pavement. I felt a very slight surge a couple times when cruising down black top to the trail, again it was very slight and I only felt it a couple times. Switching to Map 2 you can notice a slight ease in bottom end snap which could translate to control-ability in muddy or slick conditions. I ran several trips through a very rocky canyon we like to play in and tried both map 1 & 2 while in the canyon. Both maps worked really well and in the end I just left the bike in Map 1 for most of the trail. I haven't had the chance to try the map switch out yet in muddy or slick conditions which is where I feel the Map 2 setting would show it's benefit. GPA Traction control knob: I really like the theory behind the traction control unit and the "on the fly" adjust-ability the bar mounted knob provides. With my limited time on the bike I haven't had a chance to ride in muddy or slick conditions where the GPA would shine. I turned on the traction control and spun the tire in loose dirt and you could feel the engine cut out and the GET take control (Like it's hitting a rev limiter) telling me that the traction control is functioning. I can't wait to get some time on a muddy trail and see how the traction control behaves. The GET ECU....A Green Box of Magical Wizardry! I'm VERY impressed with the GET ECU. The mapping that Mike provided is SPOT ON, I haven't put any offsets into his mapping as of yet. On the trail I like the ability to use the phone to check diagnostics and I like that the ECU compensates for altitude changes automatically. On our long distance desert trips we routinely see 3000' to 10,000' elevation changes in the matter of a few hrs so the compensation feature is welcome. The GET gives you the bike that you really wanted when you purchased your 500, it turns the corked up factory bike into a flat out awesome machine! Vortex ECU: I'll be testing the Vortex next and will edit this post to include the results once I get some time on the unit. More to come.... Hodakaguy
  10. Hello. I just picked up my 2018 EXC-F 500. I ordered Vortex, FMF 4.1. and I plan to do the reed removal (unless someone suggests a reason to keep it...e.g. does it help w/ low-end torque?) I will do the emission delete, but am looking for suggestions on the best kit (best emission delete kit?) Other than Vortex (or perhaps 2019 500 Six Days ECU), FMF, the reed, and emissions delete, what else should I do? I am VERY heavy for this suspension at 6'2" 235. Should I respring both the fork and the shock? I did search the forum for a "one-stop shop for necessary mods" and didn't find one. I just cobbled this all together by reading and was hoping the fine folks on here would help me avoid any pitfalls. I am also getting the XL 80 Baja Designs LED headlight for camping trips. What else am I missing? The bike is such a slug off the floor. I think we all know that. I thought since they came out with the 2019 EXC-F 500 Six days (not street legal) that I may be able to buy that ECU and plug it in rather than the Vortex? Any thoughts on that? Prob won't work but it was just a thought. How much is a OEM ECU?
  11. 5 reviews

    DESCRIPTION The VORTEX X10 CDI the smallest and most Powerful Programmable CDI available. The X10 CDI allows the user to select up to 10 different power modes as easily as adjusting clickers on your suspension. With the advent of X10 technology the this unit can be programmed with up to 10 High Resolution 3D Maps. This give the user the option to select from a range of power settings and customise the engines power delivery to suit a variety of rider styles, different track conditions, fuel octane levels or engine configurations. In addition the rider can change power modes dynamically via a Handlebar Switch. From Mild to Wild the possibilities are endless with the X10 CDI Key Features Pre Programmed with 10 selectable Power settings via X10 Switch Instant Plug in Performance (replaces standard CDI with no mods to wiring required Handlebar Switch for Dynamic Map Selection Rubber Mounting Boot + Brackets supplied (where required) V-Boost - Internal Voltage Boost Circuit for maximising Spark Energy across the entire rev range Power Jet Control - Multiple On / Off (where applicable) Rev Limiter (where required) Small form factor for ease of mounting Re-Programmable Race Proven Reliability All Vortex CDIs are factory programmed with Performance Maps developed through dyno and track testing exclusively with our network of technical support centres and top race teams worldwide. NOTE: The X10 CDI comes with a Handlebar Switch included.
  12. 1 review

    Drilled lightening holes reduce rotating mass High carbon steel for maximum strength Special Vortex Nichel plating to resist corrosion Induction hardened to reduce surface wear Precise tolerances to ensure concentricity
  13. 0 comments

    Best bike I owned so far. Even tried to kill me twice.
  14. Last Thursday I picked up a pretty mint 13 250. I love the bike, the power is perfect and it handles like a dream. I should also mention that the bike has a full yoshi exhaust on it. I raced a local hare scramble on Sunday up in Indiana and just could not get the bike to start though. It was pretty humid and felt like about 90 degrees outside. Once I got to the line I killed it and couldn't get it to start back. Finally I got it to crank, and it was doing alright until I had to take off. Yet again, it wouldn't crank. Well, after it cranked that time I made it about a lap and a half till I buried the thing in a mud hole. About 15 minutes later after I got it out, wouldn't crank again. Didn't start for about 30 minutes. I've been doing a lot of research and it seems I'm not the only one with this problem. The way I see it I've got 3 options if I want it to start better: 1. Vortex Ignition 2. Power commander 3. Remapped stock ecu I'll be checking soon to make sure the valves are all good but I highly doubt that's the problem. What do you guys think? What has worked the best with the least amount of problems? Thanks in advance!!
  15. 0 comments

    I bought this bike just before Thanksgiving 2018 and took it to the desert. I was very impressed with how true the bike rode... in sections that I had ridden my crf 450r previously and it had felt squirrley, this KTM was solid and straight this was even prior to putting on the Dunlop Geomax 87's Im running now. The power was there, but I had no idea what I was in for once I started doing the modifications. I ordered a Vortex from Jeffakabolt on here, It did take couple weeks to receive (but nothing compared to what it seems like is going on now). When I received the vortex and a smog delete kit, I proceeded to take off all the smog/ emissions parts even the ones not typically suggested... I then removed the intake reeds and the double screens on the exhaust silencer end cap, swapped out the stock ECU for the Vortex then I rode it locally on the street and the bike had a noticeable increase in power. I had ordered a complete FMF Factory 4.1 with the stainless Megabomb from Jeff at the same time, this took a bit longer to arrive (the Megabomb was the holdup). When I received the pipe I proceeded to install...fitment wasn't quite right. After several adjustments and accepting that it isn't a 'perfect' fit I rode the bike and boy that thing scooted... night and day from what it was stock.
  16. 0 comments

    Excellent bike. A lot of aftermarket parts plus OEM parts available to make it more offroad friendly. Best suspension available IMO
  17. 0 comments

    Best bike I ever owned. Endless Customization possibilities
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