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Found 34 results

  1. I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something. Required Tools: Set of Allen wrenches #3 Phillips screwdriver small flat head screwdriver 8 & 10 mm sockets 13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate) snap ring pliers gasket scraper compressed air Required Parts: New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00 Tube or can of RTV sealant Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil) 1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way. 2. Remove right side radiator cover. 3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic). 4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike. 5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off. 6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way. 7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below. 8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily. 9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here: 10. Remove the plastic gear. 11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here: 12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here: 13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover. 14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up. 15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect): 16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out. 17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13. 18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike. 19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly. 20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on. 21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt. 22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover. 23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant. 24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp. 25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw. 26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike. 27. You are done, go ride!
  2. 0 comments

    What's the point of owning it if I can't give it 5 stars?! Seriously, I'm new to the dirt bike world. I've had a Harley, but never played in the dirt. I bought the bike and I'm completely going through it, and making it a dual sport and street legal. The only thing I won't touch is the motor for now, as it was just overhauled before I got it. I think this bike will have more power than I need and will put a smile on my face every time I ride her.
  3. Hi, I've been lurking here for a few months while I rebuild a 2003 YZ125 that was given to me in non-running condition. I'm totally new to two strokes. I'm doing the carbs now and am trying to figure out why the previous owner would have set the bike up in the manner he did. (previous owner was a semi pro mx rider so I assume he had a reason). Is there some kind of configuration where the following setup makes sense: The bike has a Pro Circuit system on it Main Jet: 390 Pilot Jet: 37.5 Needle: 82 (with clip in the first position) Spark plug: I lost it but the previous owner insisted that it was important to use the plug from a toyota t100 as a normal spark plug wouldn't hold up. Elevation: <1000 feet Based on what I can find on the internet I'm thinking of doing the following setup: Main Jet: 430 Pilot:37.5 Needle: 82 (clip in slot 3) Am i missing something here? Is there some mod (maybe a hotter coil), that would explain why they used the hotter plug and lean mixture? I should also mention that I was given the bike by a friend who bought it off the previous owner in good working order. My other question concerns installing a new water pump bearing. For the other bearings I've installed I simply dropped them in after heating the case and freezing the bearing. In this instance I am concerned that I might damage the oil seal if I do that. Should I be worried about this? If so, how should i go about installing the bearing? Thanks
  4. My bike is an '07 and it started to leak from the weap hole, I have the right engine cover off with the bearing in the case visible. Still need to remove the gear and shaft to see the bearing and seal for the weep hole on the engine cover. I started trying to remove the one in the case first.. not entirely thinking about it, I just figured that was one of the bearings im going to be romoving.. ( I didn't follow instructions properly.. Also didnt pay attention..) I tried the bar in the shaft behind the inner race and tapping. I beleive I did more harm than good.. It feels a little wrontchy when I spin it now. there are a few scratches behind the inner race from what I can see and it will not budge.. there are some photos I attached below, one is of the bearing in the case, the other is of the gear and shaft, also the seal and bearing location on the engine cover. At this point I'd like to leave it and just replace the seal and bearing on the gear shaft. since I might have damaged the bearing (in the case) would I need to go ahead and replace it or would it hurt anything to leave it? if I need to replace it since I've already messed with it, do I just need a bearing puller to get it out? one other question.. Is the bearing in the case connected to anything other than the water pump shaft?
  5. Anyone run one of these,have just fitted one up and a bit wary of how far they stick out,bash plate almost covers most of it for frontal rock impacts but it looks like laying the bike over on that side would impact the water pump before anything else?
  6. I just rebuilt my water pump and engine this winter. I ran 50/50 water and vinegar through the engine to flush coolant out. After doing this once I added new engine ice to the radiator. After ride for about 5 min I noticed coolant coming out of the bleed hole. all of the coolant went out of the bleed hole.
  7. I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something. Required Tools: Set of Allen wrenches #3 Phillips screwdriver small flat head screwdriver 8 & 10 mm sockets 13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate) snap ring pliers gasket scraper compressed air Required Parts: New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00 Tube or can of RTV sealant Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil) 1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way. 2. Remove right side radiator cover. 3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic). 4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike. 5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off. 6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way. 7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below. 8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily. 9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here: 10. Remove the plastic gear. 11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here: 12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here: 13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover. 14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up. 15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect): 16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out. 17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13. 18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike. 19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly. 20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on. 21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt. 22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover. 23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant. 24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp. 25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw. 26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike. 27. You are done, go ride! This post has been promoted to a wiki
  8. 0 comments

    Amazing bike. First FI bike, not missing the carb one bit. Clean manageable power. Had some flame out issues when I first got it, but after adding a Yoshi exhaust and getting the ECU remapped by Toyko mods that issue is gone. Ditched the Dunlops MX51s and went with MX32s and couldn't be happier. Love it so much I had to go all out making it a one of a kind. Tore it completely apart and got the frame, swingarm, skid plate, rad braces, and triple clamps anodized black.
  9. 0 comments

    Amazing vehicle, everything you could possible do to a 125 it has. 134 kit, factory connections, full fmf exhaust, vforce 3 reeds, anodized blue renthal fat bars, Hinson clutch components and cover, Boyesen factory engine cover, gold renthal chain/black sprocket, Motoseat cover, (Excel notako black rims, OEM anodized blue hubs, FULL MGXunlimted graphics kit).Items in parenthesis will be put on over winter rebuild. Pics to come.
  10. My bike likes to overheat when I'm going very slow, I'm sure it's not uncommon. When I'm in the trails and going faster, it's fine. Sometimes I just like to putt around my small set of trails I have at my house, and I don't get out of first gear. About an hour and a half later, my bike overheats and starts peeing coolant. Any way I can stop this? Or at least make it more resistant? And I can't go faster in my set of trails, there are 90 degree turns every 5 feet.
  11. i just read an topic on TT about the Boyesen supercooler kit. some claimed that the increased coolant flow would not allow the coolant to cool quicki enough so therefore would not be better then stock. some said that the increased flow obviously is beneficail. so what is your opionion and why? if i install one it will be on a 2013 kx450f that has no overheat issues thus far. i just thought it might be beneficail. thanks guys
  12. New to the forum but have been reading for a while. I just wanted to post about Boyesen. I was thinking about putting a supercooler on my bike and went to their site to check them out. I am not affiliated with them nor have any vested interest in Boyesen. On their website they have a link to sign up to win a supercooler so I did. Well I received an email from that and I won this months giveaway. Here is a link so if anyone else wants to sign up. If I can win....anyone can. It was really cool to win a supercooler....sorry for the pun. So Hello and here is the link. Also you can sign up for their emails and you might receive a discount code.... http://boyesen.com/supercoolercontest.php
  13. So I did a complete rebuild, everything. I have the jetting on the rich side, 55 pilot, 168 main, stock needle. 2002 kx250. I rode a good hard 25 min moto Sunday. This is the first time I have stretched her and let run. When pulling off, she idled up and back down erratic, like a lean condition. Maybe once every 5 or 6 seconds at worst. i shut her down, coolant level was good, it did not do that earlier in the moto. i did notice itlater on though. so once she is warm is when she did it. i have a boyeson super cooler, so flow and volume are not it? I know it isn't lean, so is that an overheat issue?
  14. Hi guys im having a look at a cbr250rr owner says loosing coolant. its deffinetly not in the oil. just wondering what are all the other options which it could be. he said when it first starts up there looks to be a little water vapour but not hen the bike is warm. Cheers, Dale
  15. I just purchased a 2012 RMZ 450. I put Uni-biker radiator guards, IMS 2.6 gallon tank, boyseen super cooler pump and a 1.4 radiator cap on. This past weekend I raced a Hare scramble race and the temperature was about 55 Deg. Trails were 2nd and 3rd gear. After the race I checked the radiator fluid and it only had 10 ounces of fluid left in the radiators. I have raced hare scrambles with YZF 400, 450 and CRF-250 without having any issues with overheating. Any Ideas on how to solve over heating?
  16. I just picked up a 2004 kawasaki kx250f and I was goona do some prevetative maintenance. I went to change the oil and I found that one of the screw holes for the oil filter cover on the boyesen water pump kit was totally stripped. Should I go buy a helicoil or just retap the hole for a bigger size bolt?
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