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Found 39 results

  1. GhostFace

    Water Pump & Balancer Shaft Rebuild

    2006 Honda CRF450R WATER PUMP LEAKAGE AND BALANCER SHAFT BEARING SERVICE. PLEASE READ IN FULL BEFORE STARTING. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOU TRASHING YOUR ENGINE; THIS IS JUST THE WAY I DID IT. When I got my 2006 CRF450R the water pump was leaking coolant out of the weep hole underneath. I was aware of this as the previous owner has done the seal twice before but hadn’t solved the problem. I assumed it was the water pump bearing worn out, making the water pump shaft vibrate and blow the seal. Upon closer inspection I discovered the balancer shaft which drives the water pump was moving about on its bearing, thus calling for bearing replacement. I’m a bit of a novice mechanic but fancied having a go because I hate paying shop labour prices, this is a step by step guide to what I’ve done to replace my balancer shaft bearings and stop the leak once and for all. 1. Drain the coolant via the drain bolt at the base of the water pump cover. 2. Drain the transmission oil. 3. Remove the rear brake pedal and kick start. 4. Remove radiator hose at the top of the water pump cover. 5. Remove water pump cover. 6. Remove the complete right side casing, including the clutch cover. 7. You now have a casing in your hand with the water pump shaft, impeller, two seals and the bearing still in place. Now to service the water pump, gently hold the rear of the shaft with a pair of grips and remove the impeller with an 8mm socket, remove the impeller and the small washer. Now would be an ideal time to do the impeller modification if your bike is 05 or older, another story. Remove the water pump shaft and inspect for ware, any groves in the shaft, then replace it. Seal removal and bearing removal is a fine art and there are lots of ways to do it, I will just say how I did it but it’s up to you to do it your way. I removed the front seal by gently tapping from the rear with a flat blade screw driver, the rear seal sits behind the bearing so I made an improvised bearing puller using a bolt, 2 nuts and a washer behind the seal with pulled out the bearing and seal together. To reassembly, the seals go in first, with the recessed side facing away from the casing, then the bearing, presses in the same way as removal but obviously reversed, lightly grease the inner lips of the seal before inserting the shaft to stop friction burn on initial fire up, mine came ready greased from Honda. Then re-fit the impeller onto the shaft, not forgetting the little washer. The waster pump is now rebuilt and the casing could be fitted back onto the engine, not forgetting the new gasket. I also did the kick start shaft seal as it was easy and cheap to do. Now is the time to decide if you need to replace your balancer shaft bearings, you will see your clutch and two gears side by side, the one nearest the front of the engine is attached to the balancer shaft, if you hold the balancer gear and move it in a circular motion looking for free play up and down, side to side. Any movement is wear, with new bearings it will not move at all. If you have any ware, replace them now as you will have wasted your time doing the water pump. Drain your engine oil, remove the left side engine casing, at the front of the engine you will see the other side of the balance shaft above the nylon gear that drives the oil pump, chances are that the left side bearing will be ok but I done mine anyway because I’m not tempting fate one I have it apart. This bit is very important, the balance shaft and gears are designed to stop the engine shaking itself to bits due to single cylinder vibration, the gears on the end of the shaft are weighted on one side, these need to go back into the same position that that were removed from or the whole thing will be out of balance. I dried the oil of the gear on each side and marked the tooth with the corresponding one on the gear next to it, or the nylon gear for the left side, I used simple white stationary correction fluid. If you are going to do the balance shaft bearings, put them in the freezer now so later they will be slightly smaller and easier to insert later. To remove the balance shaft first you need to remove the weird shaped nut on the right end of the shaft, I had a special socket made but it didn’t arrive in time so I simply tapped it around with a flat screwdriver and hammer, I didn’t even need to lock the gear, remove the balance gear and washer, now pull the shaft out from the left side, the shaft sits in an enclosed tunnel and nothing will fall into the engine casings. You now have a hole right through the front of your engine, on the right side, remove the two bolts and fixing plates, I removed the bearing by gentle tapping with a long large screw driver inserted from the left side. The right side has an oil seal, a circlip then the bearing, gently prise out the oil seal with a flat screw driver and remove the circlip, I removed the left side bearing by hitting with a socket on an extension bar inserted from the right side, you can only get to about 2/3rds of the bearing so be wise with your choice of socket. Remember, if like me you attempt this with your bike on a jack up stand you will get nowhere as the force is transferred into moving the bike off the stand, I leaned mine against a wall, leaning on the handle bar. Remove the bearings from the freezer and drive them into place with a relevant sized socket and large hammer (at own risk), roller on the left and race bearing on the right, replace the circlip and then the oil seal on the right and the two plates and bolt on the left. Now insert the balance shaft from the left side, and align the teeth with the corresponding white markings on the nylon gear, Get some one to hold the gear in place because it is weighted and will rotate out of line if you let it. On the right side align the balance gear with the white markings on the gear next to it and push into place, refit the washer and weird shaped nut. Refit casings, rear brake and kick start, oil and coolant. Remember, I will not be held responsible for anything that goes wrong, this is just the way I did it. The parts I used were: Left and right engine casing casket. Kick start shaft oil seal. Water pump oil seal. Water pump water seal. Water pump bearing. Balancer shaft oil seal. Balancer shaft race bearing. Balancer Shaft roller bearing. Have a beer, job done.
  2. I am just wondering if anyone has any experience with them. I have a 2007 yz450f that likes to get a little warm if I slow down in the really rough stuff.
  3. Anyone have any experance with this? is it snake oil or what? Ive never had any prob with my 250 overheating, but what do I know?
  4. Kawikx450

    Kawasaki KX450F (2011)

    0 comments

    Love this bike, put 130 hours before needing rebuild and it never let me down.
  5. redwheeliemonster

    Overheating ktms

    So I have seen a number of topics of ktm 2strokes overheating or losing coolant. As well as have a couple of friends who have had heat issues and are considering fans. I ran my cr250 for 2 hard years and didn't lose a drop. So do these bikes have malfunctioning parts or design flaws.
  6. I just picked up a 2004 kawasaki kx250f and I was goona do some prevetative maintenance. I went to change the oil and I found that one of the screw holes for the oil filter cover on the boyesen water pump kit was totally stripped. Should I go buy a helicoil or just retap the hole for a bigger size bolt?
  7. So I did a complete rebuild, everything. I have the jetting on the rich side, 55 pilot, 168 main, stock needle. 2002 kx250. I rode a good hard 25 min moto Sunday. This is the first time I have stretched her and let run. When pulling off, she idled up and back down erratic, like a lean condition. Maybe once every 5 or 6 seconds at worst. i shut her down, coolant level was good, it did not do that earlier in the moto. i did notice itlater on though. so once she is warm is when she did it. i have a boyeson super cooler, so flow and volume are not it? I know it isn't lean, so is that an overheat issue?
  8. eric hytinen

    2012 Boiling coolant.

    I just purchased a 2012 RMZ 450. I put Uni-biker radiator guards, IMS 2.6 gallon tank, boyseen super cooler pump and a 1.4 radiator cap on. This past weekend I raced a Hare scramble race and the temperature was about 55 Deg. Trails were 2nd and 3rd gear. After the race I checked the radiator fluid and it only had 10 ounces of fluid left in the radiators. I have raced hare scrambles with YZF 400, 450 and CRF-250 without having any issues with overheating. Any Ideas on how to solve over heating?
  9. 25 reviews

    Boyesen SuperCooler Water Pump Cover and Impeller Kits are specifically designed to enhance the performance of your engine's cooling system. These high-flow, hydrodynamic water pump kits have been tested and designed to flow more coolant. By increasing the flow, the engine will run cooler at a more constant temperature. The Boyesen Supercooler can reduce engine temperatures by as much as ten degrees, as confirmed by tests at Team Kawasaki. How does the Supercooler achieve this? Hydrodynamics. Boyesen's investment-cast aluminum water pump cover has bigger water inlets, a sculpted design, no casting seams, less restrictive corners, a more efficient impeller and less cavitation. Internal engine heat, although needed for horsepower, is also extremely destructive to your engine if it is not managed properly. Internal engine heat, although needed for horsepower, is also extremely destructive to your engine if it is not managed properly. Internal-combustion engines burn fuel hotter than the melting temperature of engine materials. When an engine is operating out-of-balance with its cooling system’s capacity, the internal temperatures often rise to levels that cause damage to the cylinder, piston, and valve-train components. If these parts become heated over the optimal operating upper limit range, component damage will begin to occur. Reduced to its common reasons for being essential in an internal combustion engine, cooling system efficiency can have a dramatic influence on the longevity of the internal working components of your bike’s engine. These include the reduction of thermal stresses and strains caused by pre-ignition and detonation (particularly the latter), distorted cylinder bores, potential damage to pistons and rings, and damaged valve-train components. HFI technology delivers superior engine heat management, the fastest fluid re-entry rates, and the most precise, hydrodynamically optimized waterpump technology available today. What is HFI? Otherwise known as Hyperflow Integration, HFI represents our holistic approach to improving the efficiency and flow rates of your bike's waterpump systems. Like any project at Boyesen, HFI is an engineering design process that is rooted in researched and tested performance. It is the driving force behind why the Supercooler works so well. HFI is the backbone of each Supercooler's final design and it is based on the process of correcting the in-efficiencies and production-based limitations found in the design of stock waterpump systems. For each Supercooler made, our Engineers apply ongoing research and development processes that yeild the greatest increases in cooling performance for each make/model/year of machine in the following areas: - Inlet Diameter Capacity - Hydrodynamically Optimized Interior Surface Modeling - Hydrodynamically Optimized Impeller Design and Function What's the result of the HFI design process? Superior fluid flow rates, increased hydrodynamic efficiency, and superior heat management capability yields the best performing waterpump system that you can buy. Simply stated, HFI innovation has been recognized worldwide by factory race teams as the technological benchmark in bolt-on engine heat-reduction performance.
  10. Tyler Davey

    Honda CRF450R (2004)

    0 comments

    My trusty steed, with fresh graphics and 2015 front plastic
  11. 1 review

    Designed to increase water flow and reduce hydraulic friction for a cooler, more constant temperature Less horsepower loss during the late stages of a race Extends engine life Covers feature a super tough, powder-coated finish that resists weathering and wear and tear Impellers are designed to minimize cavitatio
  12. CSAR FE

    Yamaha YZ450F (2016)

    1 comment

    Great motor and great suspension. The bike handles a bit different than anything else I've ridden, which I attribute to Yamaha's centralization of mass. From my experience, this bike's ability to corner and not hop out of ruts is heavily dependent on your body position on the bike. Overall, I love this thing.
  13. Dhuey92

    Honda CRF450R (2013)

    0 comments

    Amazing bike. First FI bike, not missing the carb one bit. Clean manageable power. Had some flame out issues when I first got it, but after adding a Yoshi exhaust and getting the ECU remapped by Toyko mods that issue is gone. Ditched the Dunlops MX51s and went with MX32s and couldn't be happier. Love it so much I had to go all out making it a one of a kind. Tore it completely apart and got the frame, swingarm, skid plate, rad braces, and triple clamps anodized black.
  14. Bmorin237

    Yamaha YZ125 (2011)

    0 comments

    Amazing vehicle, everything you could possible do to a 125 it has. 134 kit, factory connections, full fmf exhaust, vforce 3 reeds, anodized blue renthal fat bars, Hinson clutch components and cover, Boyesen factory engine cover, gold renthal chain/black sprocket, Motoseat cover, (Excel notako black rims, OEM anodized blue hubs, FULL MGXunlimted graphics kit).Items in parenthesis will be put on over winter rebuild. Pics to come.
  15. 250MXer

    Boyesen supercooler beneficail?

    i just read an topic on TT about the Boyesen supercooler kit. some claimed that the increased coolant flow would not allow the coolant to cool quicki enough so therefore would not be better then stock. some said that the increased flow obviously is beneficail. so what is your opionion and why? if i install one it will be on a 2013 kx450f that has no overheat issues thus far. i just thought it might be beneficail. thanks guys
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