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Found 16 results

  1. Parts and repairs aren't getting any easier to buy. This will greatly increase the service life of new sealed bearings. Before installing new sealed bearings, GENTLY pop out the seals from the side of the bearing. Using a well worn, (no sharp edges) small flat screwdriver should keep the seals damage free. Most bearings are lubed very poorly with thin grease sort of like petroleum jelly). It's best to wash/scrub this low-quality grease completely out and re-fill, pushing the grease through from one side to the other with your favorite. Boat trailer spec. grease is great because of its moisture resistance. The attached thumbnail pic are "before" pics. Nearly zero grease in one side of these new wheel bearings!
  2. This post is not meant to be bashful in any way, however, I want to make people aware of recurring issue. I hope it saves others time and money. I purchased All Balls rear wheel bearings for my bike in 2013. Long story short, they failed on the first ride and destroyed my hub. I contacted the mechanic (a personal friend) and he ensured me that they were installed properly. I then contacted RMATV about the issue, and neither they nor All Balls were willing to help. After fighting tooth and nail, All Balls told me they were installed incorrectly and would not stand behind the failure. Again, I know that this was not the case. After several weeks of hounding RMATV to stand behind the products they sell, they ordered me a used hub off eBay and sent me a new set of All Balls wheel bearings. The hub arrived and the bearings in it were okay, so I saved the new set of bearings. In 2014, I needed the bearings replaced. I had the mechanic at work help me change them (he also owns a motorcycle/atv repair business). I watched the entire process so I know that nothing was done improperly. I have only rode 3 times since then (just graduated college and was working alot in the summers to pay for school). This past weekend, the new All Balls failed and destroyed my hub, spacers, axle, and possibly swing arm (axle seized and locked up, thus spinning on the swing arm). This was the 3rd ride on them (I checked the GoPro videos I had to verify this). Being a recent college grad with no current job, you can see why this is an issue. Maybe this is a sign I need to put the bike away for a while and work a little harder 🙄 I have attached pictures of the damage. I hope this saves someone some trouble in the future. I have an hour meter, but I do not keep a log book of maintenance done because I adjust my maintenance schedule with conditions of riding with hours run (Total hours on my bike are 62.5 since purchasing 6 years ago). There can’t be more than 6 or 7 hours on these new bearings. I do keep a log book for my street bike and lawnmower, so I attached some pics to give some credibility to my story that I do take excellent care of my stuff. As you will figure out from the pic, I am extremely particular about my maintenance. If I take this much care of a lawnmower, you can imagine the level of care my bike gets. Thanks for taking the time to read. I hope I can save someone the headaches and lost riding time.
  3. How many of us have noticed that pressure washing your bike diminishes the life span of wheel bearings, countershaft seals, clamp bearings, ect... but still continue to pressure wash their bike every ride? I'm a +1
  4. ok so i changed the wheel bearings in my cr because the break side blew right out. the hub was messed up a little but i cleaned it up a little to take the bur out and the bearing went in kind of easy but i thought it would be ok. i put it all back together and rode it for like 1 hr then i noticed it was blown out again. when i wen to take it back apart the axle was lose so i thought thats what did it so i got an old bearing that was still good and put it in and made sure it was tight this time then tooke it for like a 1/2 hour and it did it again and again when i went to take it apart the axle was lose so i think it is just loosing up and doing that to the bearing or could it be because my hub is too messed up ?
  5. Hey guys, I was working on changing the tube in my front tire today and when I took my front wheel off to inspect it I ran into this.... Im not much of a mechanic and this is my first bike, it's a 2007 XR650L, but in that first photo i feel like you can see rust or something forming around the bearing I'm guessin. Is this bearing bad? This is the only bearing that looks like this, but I don't know if I should change out both sides or just this side? Do I need to change the seal also when I change the bearing? Thanks for any help!!
  6. Howdy. Im in the process of replacing all bearings and seals for the rear linkage and swingarm as well as wheel bearings. Ive gotten all the seals and bearings out. While taking the lower shock bearings and seals out, i saw that the dust covers on both sides had the hollow part facing out. Were they installed backwards? Im wondering because none of the others in the linkage or wheel bearings faced that way. I cant tell the difference in the schematics or in the manual, nor could find any info in the forums. Any help is appreciated!
  7. How do I remove rear bearings out of a DNA hub? I have the end caps and seals removed but I don't know how to remove bearings.
  8. Im new to the forum and Im not sure if this is the right place to post but here it is. I took just my rear tire into the shop to get the tube replaced. when i put the tire back on my 2003 wr450 the tire was hard to spin. i rode the bike around the block to see i could hear or feel anything. the bike comes to quicker stop than normal when i let off the throttle like the brakes are on and there is a squeaking coming from the brakes and the rotor is very hot. I didn't have this problem before i removed the tire to get the tube changed. any suggestions?
  9. Just had a new wheel bearing fitted, but the mechanic said it went in too easily,it's a bit loose. So I can feel some play at slow speed when I hit the brake. Is there a way to fix the hub, like get it machined for an oversize bearing? or welding? I just spent a lot on the wheel and dont want to waste it Its a kdx200 front, on a klx250
  10. *this is for the TT'ers without a bearing press* if your rear/front wheel have play in them chances are your bearings in the hub are worn. i've used this method with great results. 1. remove the wheel from swingarm(for rear wheel) 2. get the old bearings out, a punch should work, just work around the bearing til it comes free. 3. go to your local hardware store, and buy a bolt long enough to go through the hub, 2 washers for the size of the bolt/nut, and 2 washers about the size of the new bearings(must be smaller then bearing, but the colser the size the better) 4.with the new bearings ready for installation, and the inside of the hub cleaned, you can start your new bearings inside the hub. 5.with the new bearings started in the right direction,put 1 small washer on the bolt, then follow with 1 large washer, fit this through the hub. 6. once the bolt is through the hub, put the other big washer on the bolt, then the small washer, then the nut, finger tighten. 7. get your apporiately sized deep socket on the nut and tighten, checking regularly to be sure the bearings are going in right. 8. once the bearings are seated, you can release the bolt and remove, reinstall on swingarm and do the same to the front. good luck
  11. Just put some new All-Balls wheel bearings in the rear wheel tonight - will do the front tomorrow. Anyways, got to wondering and decided to pop the bearing open and see how much grease they came with from production and was shocked to to find so little grease. I expected they'd be shy on grease, but not almost void of it. You can use a very small paper clip (one of the rounded ends) to insert under the inside diameter lip of the bearing seal to gap it open just enough to slip a very small jewelers screwdriver under the bearing seal and pop it out. Take it slow and be very careful or you CAN damage the bearing seal. Once the bearing seal is out (as in the pic below) pack the bearing with grease and pop the seal back on and wipe the excess grease off the bearing before driving it into the wheel. Residual grease left on the bearing will only server to catch dirt/debris/small metal shavings/etc... as you drive the bearing into the wheel.
  12. Many motorcycle manuals advise that a drift and hammer be used to knock out wheel bearings. In reality, this is at best very difficult and sometimes almost impossible due to the internal spacer that lies between the bearings. This prevents the drift from getting any decent strike on the bearings that you're trying to remove. A method that I have used and passed on to others is to use an expanding anchor bolt (Rawl bolt). Tighten the Rawl bolt in the bearing and then you will have something to get a good strike on with the drift. For me, this as always worked well, saving me a lot of time & frustration.
  13. Hey guys. I got DNA rims about eight years ago. The original bearings lasted quite a while. I bought a cheap ten pack off eBay and they were junk. Wheels wobbled left and right after two weeks. So I bought brand name bearings. Same thing. Been a month and the front barely spins and the rear feels very wobbly. Where does a guy buy high quality bearings that will last???
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