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Found 57 results

  1. Hey all, I've got an 05 SM. Unfortunately he just failed inspection for a dim light and high emissions. I've been looking for a wiring diagram to help me out, but the only one I could find on here (and google) is for 2001-2004. Are they the same? If so, can someone point me to a high quality version? Something I can print extra large without blur? Also, any ideas on what caused the light to be dim? I just put in a brand new 60/60 bulb right before the inspection. I didn't notice a difference myself beforehand either. He has a few mods on him, but I haven't been able to find them all. It is a JDM spec bike, if that matters. The inspection machine is showing my bike puts out at 41??? as opposed to the 150??? requirement. Not sure what the ??? is, I'll have to ask my girlfriend since the inspection paperwork is in Japanese. Thanks in advance for any help you guys can offer! -Pomeroki
  2. Hello! First post on the forum. I've been working on creating a custom wiring harness for my xr650l, using an m unit blue, but I've run into a major roadblock when it comes to integrating it with my xr's CDI. Revival cycles has an article on doing just this using a relay they sell (https://technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us/articles/360016301611-How-to-Integrate-a-CDI-Ignition-with-an-m-Unit), but in the article it says: "The easiest way to determine if you have a CDI is to look at your OEM wiring diagram and locate the kill switch. Once you've found it trace each wire leading away from it, there will likely just be two. One of them will go to the ignition module, the other wire will go to ground. The ground is the key..." This is not the case on the Xr, as the wire leading from the kill switch leads to power, not ground. I'm fairly sure I've reasoned out the ignition conditions required for the cdi, solid green grounded, blue and yellow to pulse gen, black and yellow to coil, green and white grounded, yellow and red powered to start, and black and white powered to kill. Has anyone had success integrating an M-unit on an xr, especially successfully using the one button start stop feature?
  3. Hey Riders, I picked up a used, 2012 DRZ 400s. I love this bike. The previous owner set it up for trails, which was cool because it had many accessories, skit plate, aggressive tires, bark busters, etc. But it seems like the maintenance was a bit of a hack job. There were live, exposed wired under the seat, the chain was beyond loose and clanking, non matching allen screws etc. for parts, etc. That gives you a general context for my question. So I found this wire wrap + switch? up near the computer/dash the wiring sheath looks factory but I have no clue what this is. I have a Clymer manual that does say much/no pics. I thought I would reach out to fellow DRZ owners to see if you know what this is, does it come from factory or some lost accessory? All the the signals, horn, brake lights seem to work. Any help you can give would be appreciated. Ride on.
  4. I have a sikk-MX trail bike. And tried to extract a snapped bolt....snapped the easy out inside the bolt casing/shell(I drilled a hole through said stick bolt). I cant figure out which 52.4mm cylinder head to replace it with. Does anyone know? I also cant figure out the headlight wiring to my tusk headlight...if anyone has any schematics for that...please help. And does anyone know what larger/largest size tire or rim will fit on these bikes? Cuz these tires are pathetic.
  5. Hello all. First post on this forum. I just bought a 1980 xl80s as a christmas present for my little brother and am having trouble finding a wiring diagram for the thing. It doesnt have any of the lights or anything so im probly not going to worry about any electric components other than ignition and such. Any help with a diagram or beimg able to figure out what goes where would be greatly appriciated. Thank you
  6. I got this new project and long and short of it is the original single plug CDI is my problem. Interesting to see how far PO got until giving up I suppose. The actual CDI box is fractured and falling apart. There are not many options with this setup and later models all went over to the dual plug setup. I am going to splice these plugs into my wiring harness and wondered if anyone else who has done this could weigh in. I have the clymer manual and have the wiring diagram but I am looking for confirmation of which pins are which. Can't tell from the diagram which is on top or bottom. Thanks for looking
  7. I recently bought a taotao 110cc dirt bike that had no spark, the previous owner's dogs chewed the wiring. First thing I did was wire everything up by directly splicing the wires where I was pretty sure they needed to go and double checked while looking over diagrams. After not having spark I assumed I must be doing something wrong so I broke down and bought the whole harness which came with the loom harness, 5 pin AC CDI, coil, sparkplug, kill switch, and a new stator and plate. After replacing the stator and plugging all the wires into their correct places I still had no spark, I even tried disconnecting the kill switch and kicking it over, still no luck. The harness had two places to plug in a kill switch of two different types, I cut one of the connectors and held the black/white wire and the green wire and when I did this while kicking the bike over it shocked me at this point but still no spark. When all was lost I went to this 12v DC CDI system I made and hooked it up to my battery and connected it to the bike with alligator clips at the blue/white wire and the green to the negative on the battery along with ground to the cylinder head I got spark. I just can't understand why I'm not getting spark with the AC CDI system that I purchased for the bike.
  8. So I successfully installed my tusk enduro lighting kit but the previous owner had gotten rid of the stock head light wiring what would the best way to wire it so that it runs off of the stator? It's an 01. Any help would be appreciated. I would just slice Into the tusk kit but they reccomend leaving the head light running off of the stator.
  9. I have a KX125 with a YZ engine, and when I bought it the ignition system worked, but it didn’t have a kill switch. I went in and took off all the tape, and this is where I am. I’ve labeled a few things, I’m not sure if what I labeled as the ground wire IS the ground wire, but there is also a wire that looks like it was cut. It’s still connected to the cdi box connect though. Any help to find where I should wire the kill switch would be greatly appreciated. If you need any more pictures or information just ask! Thanks 🙂
  10. So I want to fit a Speedo to my stock Honda CRF230F, I know people have fitted the Trail Tech endurance to them but they are a bit pricey so my questions are is there another reliable Speedo or is my best choice to bite the bullet and get the Endurance? My other question is the stock stator for the CRF230F enough to power a Speedo or more specifically a trail tech endurance 2? I fully capable of installing it and splicing the wiring, my question is just can the stock bike support it? Also the Bike does not have a headlight.
  11. I bought a new wiring harness for my 95 XR600. The previous owner tried to install a rear brake light but ended up turning the wiring harness into a mess of spaghetti noodles. I currently have 3 wires coming from the stator, 2 wires coming from the A.C. regulator, and 5 wires coming from the wiring harness. I do not know which wires attach to what. Does anyone have a wiring diagram? Some of them are color-coded but some are not and are missing male/female connectors.
  12. Hey all, im getting a KX500 from the old man, the bike is a solid as can be. All my riding is in the mountains and rides can easily go until sunset, i was wondering what would it take, if its even possible to throw an 8 inch light bar around the front plate. Any input is greatly appreciated, thanks!
  13. Hello! I am removing an old enduro/street legal kit for my 1997 XR400 and upgrading to LED blinkers and an LED front light - i want to keep the stock rear fender with the brake light/two filament bulb because it works. I am doing this with a Baja Designs Squadron Pro MC LED Race headlight, the Baja designs REC/REG and fuse, Tusk LED/Harness/blinker kit, and a 12V AGM battery. Here is my modified wiring diagram - with the Stock diagram for reference. Was hoping some of you wiring gurus (or XR guys) would look over my drawing and see if you can find any issues or have suggestions before I start cutting things up. :) Thanks!
  14. Introduction: I recently bought a lightly used DR Z400E instead of the street version of the same bike. Rather than do the sensible thing and buy a complete dual sport conversion kit, I chose to save a little money, and use parts I already had plus buy a few new ones to make it street legal in Nevada. Nevada has pretty relaxed rules for licensing a motorcycle for street use. They will license a motorcycle with fenders, lights (headlight, turn signals, and brake), mirrors, horn, muffler and reflectors. Even tho it isn't required to get a license plate, I put a speedometer on the bike just to keep track of my speed and mileage and mounted DOT tires for better performance on the highway and to avoid problems with the police after the bike had a plate. The project: Since the DRZ400 already has stock fenders, muffler and is an E (electric start) model, to get a plate I needed to add mirrors, lights, reflectors and horn -- and a wiring harness to connect the lights,switches and horn together. All these parts are readily available separately from many sources, except for a model specific wiring harness to convert a dirt bike to a street legal dual sport. I was only able to find such wiring harnesses as part of a model specific dual sport conversion kit -- usually costing $400 and up. I believed I could save about half that amount by buying the lights and switches from the aftermarket or used on eBay, and making my own custom wiring harness out of harness removed from a street legal motorcycle model. In fact, a DOT approved dual sport headlight, rear fender with a tail/brake light, turn signals, hydraulically activated front stop light switch, and reflectors cost under $150. Installing these items on the dirt bike is pretty straight forward but is specific to each bike model so I won't cover it here . What follows is a description of how to adapt a street bike harness and do your own dirt bike to dual sport conversion. I also offer some cautions and recommendations along the way. Such as: don't start such a project without some knowledge of how a motorcycle lighting system works and without having necessary hand tools including wrenches and screw drivers, soldering iron, wire cutters, multi-tester, a drill and drill bits, and be able to fabricate simple mounts for your turn signals and possibly the brake light switch. Selecting a wiring harness: I was fortunate in having much of the electrical system from a wrecked '88 600cc Katana to use as a starting point for the project. Included were the main wiring harness and fuse block, ignition switch, and the handle bar mounted control assemblies. These are low demand items and can be found on eBay, generally for very little money ($10-$50). Search for "wiring harness with switches" or "wiring harness with controls". If you don't find what you want, search for "wiring harness" and then check the seller's other items to see if he has the controls for sale as well. Your best bet for a donor bike is one with the least complicated electrical system you can find that will meet the legal requirements for licensing a motorcycle in your state. Popular street legal enduro models such as Suzuki DR Z400S, DR Z400SM, DR350SE or DR650SE, Honda XL's or XR-L's, Kawasaki KLR's and some KLX650's would be best. Worst choice would be a touring bike or perhaps a late model sport bike with fuel injection and other hi-tech electrical marvels. Between those extremes are plenty of acceptable donor models. Two things to avoid: Don't buy a wiring harness that has been cut or had wires and connectors removed. You need to be the one who decides what goes and what stays on the harness. Second, don't buy a wiring harness described as a "front" or "rear" wiring harness or any other description that suggests it's not the complete harness. Most often those terms are applied to more complex motorcycles, which you want to avoid anyway. In any case, you need a complete wiring harness, not part of one. As suggested above, it is important that you get the wiring harness and left handlebar control assembly (with high/low beam, horn and turn signal switches) from the same motorcycle or same model donor bike. Of course, the more parts you can get included with the wiring harness, the better. That way the connectors will fit together and the wire color codes will be the same thruout they system. However, things that plug into a wiring harness such as turn signals, lights, horns and most mechanical rear brake switches are generally interchangeable between bikes and brands, even if the wire color codes are different. And, you don't have to be concerned about warning sensors and lights, ignition or charging system components that plug into the wiring harness; you aren't going to be using any of those items. Setting up: You will need a well lit, fairly large area to work, a table top or sheet of plywood to use as a work area. The work surface should be large enough to hold the lights, horn and switches you will use (or substitutes), plus the wiring harness, left hand control, a 12 volt battery and your tools. If you're an old school rider (over 50?) you need to know is that modern motorcycles do not use the frame as part of the electrical system as they did from the dawn of time, into the early 1980's. Separate positive (hot) and negative (ground) wires lead to each light and other component being powered by the harness. This is far more reliable than the old way and avoids problems such as corrosion and electrolysis that occur when dissimilar metals and electricity come together. Also, you will find lighter gauge wires feeding into heavier gauge wires on the same circuits, which cuts down on the number of separate wires in the harness. When it's time to cut wires out, take care not to eliminate any heavy gauge wires needed by your dual sport circuits. Tracing the circuits: Your first look at a wiring harness taken off the bike can be intimidating. It looks like jumble of thick and thin wire clusters with an amazing variety of connector ends. Your task is to identify and trace the wires (circuits) which deliver current from the battery, to the switches and then to the headlight, turn signals, tail light, stop light and horn. Everything else you can ignore and will eventually cut out of the harness and throw it away, leaving just the custom dual sport harness needed for your bike. One of the advantages to selecting one of the popular models as wiring harness donor, is that repair manuals with very complete wring diagrams are readily available. If there was anything I'd have done differently for this project, it would be to have found a manual with a wiring diagram before starting to trace the circuits for the donor bike. The diagram would have made the process a lot easier and faster. But I didn't and I imagine some of you won't either. Circuit tracing with or without a wiring diagram is more tedious than difficult. First step is to lay the wiring harness out on a table with the wires and connectors positioned as if it was on a bike (headlight connector to the front, tail light and rear turn signals to the back. This will make it easier to find wires connecting to the component parts. Place the headlight, turn signal lights, horn and tail light on the table approximately where they will fit on the bike respective to the wiring harness. You should be able to easily identify the entire circuit by following the color coded wires thru the harness. Label both ends of the circuit and as much of the wires making it up with masking tape marked to show the circuit name (for example: left turn signal, headlight high beam, etc). If you have the wiring diagram, trace the circuits using the wire color codes and schematic. You may have to remove some of the electrical tape to get to wires clean and un-faded enough to clearly identify the color of the wire and (often) the stripe on the wire. Not a problem since you will remove all the electrical tape and coverings to trace the circuits using the color codes that will make your new harness. Once you have the dual sport circuits identified and labeled, you can begin to remove the un-needed wires from the donor harness. That process is described in the section following. If you don't have the wiring diagram, but do have an ignition switch, turn it to ON position. If your harness doesn't have an ignition switch, you will need to find the connector it should fit into and connect the heavy gauge 12VDC "hot" input wire to the corresponding output wire in order to test and identify the system connectors. Other functions of the ignition switch (power to the ignition and parking light) are not part of the dual sport conversion and can be ignored. Connect the handlebar control switch to the wiring harness and any other components you have and can easily match the connectors for (such as the right handlebar control switch, brake switches, etc.) You will need a flasher unit to trace that circuit and operate the turn signals so be sure to install that component. Now connect a 12VDC battery to the harness just as it would have been connected on the motorcycle and begin plugging your dual sport components (lights, horn and switches) into connectors and test the system to see if your controls operate the components. It may be necessary to change connectors on either the wiring harness or the component to get a proper fit. Be sure to solder and wrap the splices with good quality electrical tape when you do. It's useful to have a multi-tester able to read DC volts to see which wires are hot and which are ground. Your multi-tester should also have a continuity testing function to permit testing switches and tracing wires. Sometimes you have to search for the proper connectors. When you find the connectors, make a label by writing the name of the circuit on masking tape and attach the tape to the wire near the connector. Those labels are the end point of your dual sport circuits. Once you have the end points for the various circuits, you also have the color codes for each circuit you need to trace and are basically at the same place as if you had the wiring diagram. Remove most of the tape and shielding material around the wires of the harness. Trace each of the circuits you want to keep (lights,horn, etc) and use masking tape to keep hot and ground wires for that circuit together as long as possible. When hot circuit wires feed into heavy gauge wire, continue tracing the hot wire to its origin at the fuse block to avoid removing any important segments of the circuit later. Keep labeling the circuits as you go until you have the start, middle and end points clearly identified. Thinning out the un-needed wires from the harness: When all the connectors you are going to use have been labeled, you can remove unnecessary wires from the harness. It could be considered an optional step but you will make a much nicer looking harness that is easier to snake thru the frame with the extraneous wires and parts like the charging circuit, panel light wires and ignition system wires removed. Before you start cutting and even if you have a wiring diagram, power the system with a battery and have your lights and horn connected to their respective connector plugs. As you begin cutting away unneeded wires, test and re-test each of your circuits to be sure you haven't cut a necessary wire. A little care in this step, can save you a lot of grief and time later. You will quickly see that some color wires have nothing to do with the circuits you intend to use. These will be for thing like oil and temperature sensors, charging, ignition and starting circuits, and are the first wires to cut and eliminate. The next group to eliminate are wires which are part of your dual sport circuits but are not necessary to it's operation. These will be wires leading to the old instrument panel such as turn signal arrows, high beam indicator, dash panel lights, etc. Some of these wires will be color coded the same as the circuit wires you need. You will have to use clues as the type of connector at the end of these wires to judge whether to cut or keep it. For example, if the wire terminates in a bulb holder such as used in an instrument panel, you can cut it. Remember to test your DS system after each cut and splice back any wires that interrupt one of your components. Rough fitting the harness to the bike: When you have thinned out the wiring harness and have only wires needed to operate your dual sport components left, it is time to move the wires to your dirt bike and begin fitting and adjusting the harness to it's new setting. Obviously, the fuel tank, seat and original headlight and tail light will have to be removed and you must have installed the brake light switches, turn signals, head and tail light on the bike before this can be done. In most cases you will likely find the donor bike connector wires are longer than needed on the dirt bike. so you will shorten them to fit. When you need to lengthen wires to a component by splicing in a new segment, try to use the same color wires as were used on the donor bike. Consistent use of color coded wires makes future diagnosis and repairs a lot easier. You may also find it necessary to change a few connector plugs to match those on the component they power. The rule here is to use female plug ends on the hot side of the system and male plugs on the component side to avoid accidental grounding of hot wires. Be sure to solder any wires you splice and wrap the splices separately with electrical tape before final wrapping of the harness. Powering the new harness: With the modified harness on the bike; it's time to attach it to the battery terminals and power the system up. Of course you won't attach it directly to the battery, you will use a switch, preferably your ignition key switch, to turn power on and off. I used the DRZ tail light wire, which is turned on with the ignition switch, to operate a relay feeding power from the battery to the donor fuse block using 14 gauge wires. I considered using the DRZ headlight wire (16 gauge) to power the new harness and components but with more components you need heavier gauge wire to supply enough current and avoid possible over heating or fire from small gauge wires. A relay is a device that transfers the needed amount of current thru properly sized wires but needs only a small amount of current to activate the electromagnet that relays power from the battery to the fuse block. You can purchase a 30 amp relay used for fog or driving lights at NAPA and most other auto parts stores for $4. Using a relay activated by your key switch assures that light system and accessories have enough current to operate safely and that they only work when the key is turned on. The fuse block feeds the lights and horn just as it did on the donor bike. You should even have a couple of extra fused hot wires left over to use for accessories such as a GPS or heated grips. Final testing and wrapping the harness: When the wiring harness is in place with all components attached you should test each light and switch for proper operation, and double check every connection and splice to see that it is secure and safe from being separated by normal operation of the motorcycle. Turn the handle bars lock to lock as the turn signals are operating. Test the horn and brake light at the same time. Bounce on the seat, lock the front wheel and tire and compress the forks repeatedly to be sure that wires aren't stretched so tight that they can pulled apart by these actions or are rubbing on the frame or other parts of the bike so they could wear through to the bare wires and short in time. When satisfied that the new harness and components work properly and are safe, wrap the loose wires with electrical tape. In areas where the harness is likely to rub on the frame or forks, enclose it in a protective sheath such as you may have removed from the original harness. You can also use a wiring loom cover (available at auto parts or trailer supply stores) for that purpose. Wrap the cover with electrical tape as you did the loose wires. Replace the fuel tank and seat you're good to go. Before you go to the DMV for your plate, I recommend running the bike over the usual kind of off-road terrain you plan to use it on for a few miles as a final stress test. Better to find and fix problems early than after you have a plate and hit the trails 40 miles from home and there's no pickup truck to haul you back. Next stop should be the inspection station (in Nevada) and then on to the DMV for a VIN check and your license plate. After that, remember to keep the rubber side down.
  15. 0 comments

    Bought this bike from original owner, an older gentleman that babied it, stopped riding, and I pretty much stole it for the price. Have the intensions of turning it into a supermoto down the road since it's pretty easy to make it street legal where I live. It's next to new, absolutely flawless mechanically, electric start, headlight, all electrical work perfect, and only a couple graphic blemishes. Orginal owner had AIS kit installed, grey wire mod done, all the uncorking goods for me not to worry about (all looked very professional too). After first ride I replaced both sprockets and chain, chain roller, chain guide, and chain slider. Installed trail tech vapor computer, tusk enduro lighting kit, sicass keyed ignition switch. The bike is so much fun to ride, I honestly don't get tired of it on michigan trails. Power is incredible, handles great, easy to ride, suspension is probably my favorite part about the bike it's very nice. Coming off of an 02 yz250 that's understandable lol. Comparing my two bikes-the WR has more power, but the YZ is a much more aggressive delivery. Overall very fun bike 5/5. Also very glad to still be carbureted!
  16. so acquired a 2001 crf250 with everything but a bottom end. I was able to buy a 1999 motor for 500$ but got no spark and came to realize there was an extra plug. so I did some research and found out the cdi for a 99 with two plugs is different than the cdi for an 01 with just one. so is there a way to use the 99 ignition and harness with the 2001 cdi? it's around 800 dollars for the 2001 ignition which kinda sucks. or 200 for the cdi from a 99
  17. Hi DRZ Thumpers, I'm thinking about going into mod season and adding some ideas to simplify my circuitry on my DRZ400SM (2007 model). The things I'm thinking of doing: Removing the ignition and wiring the ignition with the kill switch, essentially turning the kill switch into one single master switch that does both (on/out: Electrics on, ready to start; in/off: Electrics off, no start) [Note: Safety isn't an issue, I keep the bike locked up in a garage at all times] Wiring the "PASS" switch on the left hand switch assembly to rather be a cut-off for the headlights so I can hold it down when starting the bike and make sure all the juice is going into the start. (Apparently some of the US models of this bike don't have this switch, so sorry if there's any confusion there) Work out how to wire the clutch, kick-stand switch and the neutral switch so that if the bike is on stand AND in Neutral it can start without needing pull the clutch in, means I can just walk up to it, pull the choke out, ignition on and start up Would be great to hear any tips on getting this done or if any of these ideas are completely foolish! Thanks
  18. Hi I'm here once again for a friend who's ktm has electric issues, he was riding on the street at night and the bike died, it didn't blow up, we checked spark and it was weak, stator was burnt black and almost all the coil were broken, he changed it but the spark is still weak, it starts but at low rpm it dies and at high rpm from my perspective it sounded odd but it runs. Anyone knows what could it be? Burnt stator broke other electrical components? We checked the wiring a few days before changing the stator and everything, we excluded the regulator wich seems to be needed only for the headlight and tail light. Not for the spark. Changed the spark 2 times both work the same way, weak spark. Checked carb at a professional its perfect. Also the spark isn't only weak but is missing most of the time
  19. I picked up a 1975 MT250 elsinore yesterday, and its a solid bike to start a restoration. Frame and motor is great. Runs, but needs some work. Throttle cable is junk, and its idling too high but i cant adjust the cable because its broken and sticky. Killswitch is also junk, so a stuck throttle scares me right now. Headlight is mismatched and not wired up (nothing is wired up all wires are cut). Missing taillight and blinkers are not original. Side plate is there, but the piece that holds it on is missing so it falls off. it runs and drives, but would like to sort out the throttle cable and killswitch before i start doing any carb tuning to get it crisp. seat cover has a burnt section from the exhaust... do these usually have something to keep it off of the exhaust when its up? Its missing the latch for the seat as well, so im using a nut and washer right now. Whats the general consensus with the oil injection? Cap it and premix, or rely on the injection? Anyone with some knowledge of these bikes is greatly appreciated, because mine is very limited. Im mechanically inclined and excited to dive in, but will definitely need some help along the way.
  20. Hey sorry if this doesn't belong here. Its also a long one sorry bout that aswell. Im rebuilding an Atomik Fury 250cc, and at the moment it doesn't have oil or fuel in it. It also doesnt have an air filter, but the plumbings done. Disclaimer: im not an electrical engineer. I got in a wire harness kit and put it together as best I could. Some connecters were missing and wires in the wrong configuration so I had to redo some of them. So that could be an issue however they didnt seem damaged of crimped too badly (my mate had a tool for it) Two things happened 1. When I put the negative terminal on the battery it arced. However the fuse hadn't blown, so I checked the wire to the solenoid and found the nut wasnt tightened. 2. I tried again, it didnt arc. However once I flip on the switches and hit the button, nothing happened. No sound, nothing. I checked the continuity in the components and wires as thats all I really know how to do, but they all checked out. Im not sure if its right and wont start as it is or if i've &%$#@!ed it and need to redo it. Batteries brand new. It may be a ground but im not sure. The battery earth is further back on the bike. I didnt ground to the engine case as im not sure where or how. Its been shoddily painted (not by me) though I did grind the ground points. I can add pics of the bike or parts i've replaced if it would help. Dont have the old ones as it was stripped when I got it Any helps appreciated thanks
  21. Hey guys, I did a number on my bike yesterday at a local poker run. Came off a log pile and dumped the bike over on the enduro part of the couse after rolling on a bit too much throttle. Ooops! 🤦 Still a new rider and learned from that one lol Anyways, I bent my bars, my clutch lever, and my shifter popped up one spline. Luckily I won new bars in the raffle! Btw the CR high bend in 7/8 I won was the exact same shape as the factory bars, minus the bend of couse. So I'm looking at replacing my clutch lever assembly with the Pro-Taper Profile clutch lever assembly. Looks like a real quality piece. I did notice that the factory set up has a couple wires coming out of it. Do you think these could be adapted to the pro taper, or can I just splice them together and hide them in the turn signal block? Here's what I'm looking at. http://www.protaper.com/2012/01/profile-clutch-perch-6/
  22. DFAXXX

    HELP DR250 Wiring

    Hi All Hoping there's a wiring electrics guru that can help me out with my '96 DR250S. Problem: I've got power to/through my main switch, the neutral light, a relay (can hear it when the main is switched) and... nothing else! Neutral switch works properly (on and off when gear is changed). LED light integrated in the switch works as well. Have checked and other items (lights) are working/not broken when powered direct from a battery. Everything except the main switch and the licence light seems to be original and as per the diagram I found. (Licence light isn't there anymore, but wiring simply stops at the plastic joining connector - not shorting or anything) I've attached a wiring diagram that seems to match the wiring of my bike (even though it's for '90-'92) and photos of the switch I have and shots showing the neutral light, but nothing else functioning. Any help/tips/ideas would be greatly appreciated! Extra info: Bike was stolen and surprisingly recovered by police, but the thieves removed the main key switch. So, I've got a new switch as a stand in and read about a resistor that was part of the original setup, which I've also included. (integrated in the ground wire & supposed to be the correct specs)
  23. Hey everybody, let me start this off by apologizing for not only beating this dead horse, but pulverizing it into a thousand little pieces. I have a 2007 WR450f and I am converting it to a supermoto. I've purchased a tusk wiring harness, Headlight Head Lamp Bulb Socket, turn signals , flasher relay, horn, brake switches, a handlebar switch (with hi/lo, horn, and turn signals) and I also have a keyed ignition switch. I decided to order all of these parts because they are the same parts as the guy from THIS VIDEO. I did this so I could just follow his steps and not worry about anything. The first issue came up when I found out his method of using that headlight socket to get power to his relay wouldn't work because 1) His bike is newer than mine and uses a different headlight bulb etc and 2) It appears his bike has a headlight relay and my '07 does not. He uses that relay to cut the power to his electronics just by using the factory push on/of switch. So killing power to the electronics without a switch isn't possible because I dont have that relay...okay thats fine. I wired my stock headlight to the hi/lo beam on my new handlebar switch and it worked just fine for a bit...and then it would only work on the low beam and when I turned the switch to hi it would turn the light all the way off....not sure why it worked fine one minute and the next minute this happened but OKAY I can live without hi/lo beams. Here is what I did step by step with links to what I watched/looked at to guide me. I took off all my plastics/gas tank etc and ran the harness through the bike. I installed the handlebar switch, horn, turn signals, ignition key. I wired the new headlight socket up but had to take that out and rewire it back to stock (kind of?) and in doing so the hi/lo worked for a minute but then only hi/off worked. I plugged in the turn signal, horn, flasher relay plug from my handlebar switch to my TUSK wiring harness. I took the wires coming from my stock tail light and ran them through and connected them to the tusk wiring harness. Plugged the turn signals into their respective places on the harness. I then connected the tusk wiring harness to my battery using the supplied connectors and double checked everything was in the proper place etc etc. Turn on the bike....NOTHING works. I mean nothing (except the headlight) Before I put the blinkers and everything on I had already hooked up the pressure switches to the front and rear brake and had it working fine. After I switched the brake pressure switch plugs into the tusk wiring harness the brake lights didn't even work.... THE FUSE!!! After I got over being bummed nothing worked... I started going through everything to see what was wrong and the little fuse thats included with the TUSK wiring harness was blown....but why? I followed instructions from the TUSK install video itself...why did the fuse blow?! Do I just get a new fuse and try again?! The only differences between this video install and what I did is I didn't use their "kit tail light"I kept my factory one I just cut their harness plug off and wired them individually and I also didn't get front turn signals only rear ones. ANYWAYS....Since I wanted to go riding the next day and needed my brake light and headlight working I unconnected everything and put everything back to how it was when I started (after I had put in the front/rear brake pressure switches. I am now (not before) getting my headlight power straight from the battery (I think) which is spliced into the brake light with the pressure switch wires. As of now the headlight works, the running tail light works (very dim) and the brake light works (very bright). I know someone is going to say I need a stater/rectifier upgrade but according to everybody, I dont. Lots of people have done what I am trying to do without those upgrades and using the same parts I have but for some reason I am just coming up empty with this install. At the end of the day all I REALLY want is a working headlight, brake light, and turn signals. If someone can tell me step by step instructions on how to either A ) Make everything work or B ) Make my headlight, brake light, and turn signals work...I will be forever grateful. I am honestly willing to send you money if you can help me figure this out.... Again, I am so sorry I know how much people hate old problems being brought back but I genuinely need help. I am not an electrician and know only the VERY basics so after I follow instructions and shit still doesn't work.... I am just lost....PLEASE HELP ME I DONT KNOW WHY THIS IS SO HARD FOR ME TO DO!!! Here are links to each part, video, and diagram I used: Install Videos: Video I used to order parts from/attempt first install from Official TUSK enduro kit install video Handlebar switch for headlight hi/lo  (I used the diagram they show in this video and it worked at first but then only worked as on off/hi beam switch) Parts: Wiring harness Turn signals Flasher relay Handlebar switch Brake switch x2 Horn Ignition Key Headlight socket (not using anymore but was installed at one point without bulb)
  24. Ok, guy's here's the thread that I was talking about. Let's put our settings and MOD's so we can keep track of what's working and what's not. I found out today that our bikes have a GPS (Gear Position Sensor) built into the ECU so just uploading maps may not work. Also, what's your TPS setting and is it working? Also, what MOD's have you done? Mine, so far. TPS: .64 MOD's: FMF 4.1 Factory slip on Removed all SMOG Crap (You must leave the Secondary Air valve connected-electrically) or you will get a fault code. All hoses can be removed and plugged. The carbon canister is built within the front downtube on the frame-No need to remove it, just the hoses.
  25. Hi I appear to have purchased a Cross breed xr xl 250 I have three yellow wires coming from the crankcase to the ac regulator. But at the cdi unit I have a red and black.wire that is supposed to go to the alternator Can anybody help me at all Mike
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