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  1. 2 reviews

    XC Rings - Replacement Rings Sold per cylinder Wiseco rings fit Wiseco pistons only For +.010 oversized pistons
  2. 0 comments

    Plenty of power. Outdated suspension that feels uneasy and wild. Not confidence inspiring.
  3. 0 comments

    Bought an old race quad and redid it. Ended up buying new plastics, so there are pics with it yellow, some red, and all red.
  4. Proper engine break-in is equally as important as a proper rebuild. Here, we'll go over a checklist to make your build will last, as well as a step-by-step break-in process. Putting in the time and money to rebuild your motorcycle engine is both a critical job and a prideful accomplishment. The feeling of an engine failure right after a rebuild is a sinking one, and will most likely stir up a mixture of frustration and disappointment. We want to help as many people as we can avoid that feeling. So, we've put together a review checklist for your rebuild, followed by a general engine break-in procedure, because your motorcycle should bring joy and fun to your life, not take tufts of hair out of your head. We'll start with a quick review on the motorcycle top end rebuild. Be sure these critical steps and precautions have been taken. If you find any concerning discrepancies, it's worth it to pull back apart and double check. Be sure that you have proper piston to cylinder clearance. Recently, a cylinder was bored with requested .0035” clearance. This machine shop has been in the area for over 30 years. When complete, it looked like it was tighter. He slipped the piston through the cylinder a few times and said, "It's okay." He was asked to check again, which he refused, and said that it was correct, and that he was too busy. Back in the Brew Bikes shop, it was double-checked, and clearance was .0015”. Yes, way too tight. Don’t just take someone’s word that clearance is correct, always double check it! Always double check your piston-to-wall clearance. Was the honing of the cylinder properly done? Honing is required to be done after boring, and if the cylinder was not bored, it still is needed to deglaze the cylinder for proper ring break-in. Different honing tools are better used for different applications, with common tools being brush hones and flex hones. Safe grits and hone materials depend on the cylinder finish, so check your manual or with the cylinder shop for a recommendation. Be sure that the crosshatch is at 45 degrees. The proper crosshatch will retain the proper amount of lubricating oil while allowing the rings and piston to break-in. Too little of crosshatch or too much will not allow the rings to break-in correctly and never get the proper sealing they were designed for. Read our full guide to cylinder prep. After proper honing and deglazing, your cylinder wall should have a consistent, 45 degree crosshatch. If the bike is a 2 stroke don’t forget to chamfer the ports. If it has a bridge in the exhaust port, most pistons require this area to be relieved. READ the piston specs, and if you don’t understand, be sure to reach out to Wiseco for specifications. Read our guide to relieving the exhaust bridge in 2-stroke cylinders. A critical step in 2-stroke cylinder prep is port edge relief and exhaust bridge relief. This will help ensure smooth piston and ring operation, and combat accelerated ring wear. Be certain that the ring gap is within specification. Don’t assume it is correct, check it. Always double check your ring end gap. With your compression ring in the cylinder, measure the end gap with a feeler gauge to ensure it's within the spec included in your piston instructions. Proper cleaning of the cylinder. Before you start cleaning make sure the gasket areas are clean with no residue of gasket or sealers. First, use a cleaning solvent with a brush and then again with a rag. This is not enough, and you will need to clean with dish soap and water. Using a clean rag you will be amazed on how much grit from the honing is still in the cylinder. Be sure to clean the piston also. Thoroughly cleaning your cylinder for a rebuild is critical. Be sure all old gasket material is removed, and use a 2-step cleaning process of solvent with a brush and rag, followed by soap and water. When the cylinder is clean and dry, you should be able to wipe the cylinder wall with a clean rag and not see any honing material residue. Then before assembly, use plenty of assembly lube on the cylinder and the piston. Don’t forget to lube the piston pin and bearing along with the rings. Assembly lube on the piston, rings, cylinder, pin, and bearing is important for proper break-in. Many rings have a topside for proper sealing. Double check this and be sure the proper ring is on the proper landing on the piston. Again, read the instructions that came with the piston. Piston ring markings vary, but the marking should always face up when installed on the piston. The gaskets and quality play an important part of engine rebuilding. If a gasket is thicker than the original, it could result in a loss of power. Worse yet, a gasket thinner than the original will result in less deck height (piston to head clearance). This reduced clearance may result the piston to come in contact of the head causing permanent damage. After placing the gaskets, be sure while assembling the piston in the cylinder that the ring gaps are in proper placement. Check your engine manual for proper placement of the piston gaps. Then, install the head. Many motorcycle manufacturers have a desired head nut tightening sequence. Refer to their procedures while doing this. Most companies give the head nut torque rating with the washers, nuts and studs being clean and dry. That means if you use oil or a thread locking compound the studs will be over-stressed due to the over-tightening of the head nuts. Engines have been damaged by this. Now you know, follow what the engine manufacturer recommends! Regardless of the type of motorcycle engine you're working on, there should be a tightening sequence and torque spec for the head nuts. Pay close attention to the specs in the manual, as these are critical to prevent damage and for proper operation. Use the proper engine oil and fill to the proper level. The fuel you use should be fresh and of the proper octane. If your engine is a 2 stroke, mix to the proper fuel/oil ratio. For just about any 2-stroke, whether vintage or a newer, a 32:1 fuel/oil mixture is very common, but check your manual for the recommended ratio. Not only is it important for piston lubrication, but also for the crank bearings and seals. After all this work has been done, and you feel confident with the rebuild, what else can go wrong? PROPER ENGINE BREAK-IN! So many mistakes can happen while breaking in the piston and rings, resulting in rings never properly sealing or/and piston galling. Many builders have their own procedures, but most all do heat cycling for breaking in engines. Before we get into it, please note that this is just one of many methods that work well for engine break-in. Many people have many different effective methods, this is just one example that has worked well for us. Use this break-in procedure as a guideline for your next fresh top end: It's important to ask yourself if the rebuilt engine is still using the same carburetor, air cleaner, exhaust system, cam, compression, or if a 2-stroke, the same port work configuration? Any changes can result in air/fuel mixtures to be either too rich or too lean, resulting in engine damage. If your engine is fuel injected and in good working order, the ECU and O2 sensor should keep the air/fuel mixture correct. If you have access to an air/fuel meter, or if a 2-stroke, an EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature) gauge, check the air/fuel mixture. Even with these tools, spark plug readings are still recommended. Spark plug readings are a sure-fire way of knowing if your engine is running too lean or too rich. We'll get into more detail in a later article, but generally the plug will look white when it's too lean, and dark brown or black and wet when too rich. At first start up, keep the engine just above idle and give it a few revs up and down. This power on and power off RPM breaks in the piston and rings evenly on the intake and exhaust sides. If air cooled, once the engine builds up heat where it becomes too hot to touch, shut the engine off. If water-cooled, once the engine coolant starts rising in temperature, shut the engine off. This initial warm up takes just a couple minutes. Now wait a few minutes until the engine is slightly warm to the touch, repeat #2, letting the engine get slightly hotter. Be sure to keep the engine RPMs above normal idle and keep the RPMs going up and down slowly. Let it cool again till it is slightly warm to the touch. This time, start and run longer until the engine gets near operating temperature. If air cooled, be sure you have a fan pushing air from the front. You now can rev the RPMs up a little higher, being sure not to hold it at a sustained RPM, but revving it up and down. Let the engine cool completely. Check all fluid levels to be sure there is no loss of engine lubricant, or, if water-cooled, engine coolant. After engine is cool, do a plug reading to be sure it is not running lean. Because the engine has run a few heat cycles, the gaskets may have compressed. It is VERY IMPORTANT to be sure engine is totally cooled down, and then check the torque of the cylinder head nuts. Most times the cycling head nuts will need some re-tightening. DON’T over-tighten; just tighten to manufacturers’ specification as you did when assembling the engine. Next, warm up the engine for a couple minutes as you did in the other procedures. Ride the bike, revving the engine up to normal riding RPM. Be sure NOT to keep the RPM too low and don’t lug the engine. These low RPM’s actually puts much more stress on the engine parts. If this is a dirt bike, running on a track is best due to the up and down RPMs the engine will experience. Don’t be afraid to run it normally. If this is a road bike, a curvy road is best due to the RPMs going up and down, this is a must! Don’t lug the engine and don’t go on an open highway that keeps the engine at a sustained RPM. This first initial ride will only be about 5 minutes. Let the engine cool till you can touch the engine. Follow the same procedure as above, but this time running for 10 minutes. This will be your last break-in run. Follow the above procedure and run for 15 minutes. Now is the time to let the engine totally cool down again. Check the fluids as you did before after the engine has completely cooled down, and do another spark plug reading. It is now time to do another check of the cylinder head nuts for proper torque. Sometimes no additional tightening is needed, but don’t be alarmed if you need to, because this is normal Check all your fluids once more after the engine cools, inclduing coolant and oil level. At this time, the rings and piston should be broken in. Go out and ride it. The first few times, just be sure not to get the engine overheated, but your ride times are not restricted. It never hurts to do another spark plug reading and double-check the head nuts after your first long ride. Enjoy your rides, and be safe!
  5. pantaz

    Honda XR400R (1997)

    0 comments

    Reliability like no other! Dual-sport 1997 Honda XR400R with Wiseco 440cc big bore kit. Thousands of miles on and off road.
  6. Ben99

    Kawasaki KX125 (1986)

    0 comments

    Awesome bike! Rips up the dirt
  7. 0 comments

    Its a great bike. But I decided to do a full restore. Ill have it finished in a couple weeks!
  8. 0 comments

    Tons of power, bored out to a 380, really fast. low hours and barn kept. great machine. thinking of a 1300 hyabusa twin turbo engine swap. am i crazy?
  9. 0 comments

    I love this bike,I purchased it in 2008,It was a basket case motor was blown.I have been building bike motors for over 27 years.So I went to work,Punched it out to 101mm used wiseco 11:1 high compression piston,Installed a Stage 2 Hot cam for a XR650,It took some time to figure out how to pull it off,I added new FMF exhaust system for XR650L.It starts on 2 or 3 kick.I had to rejet the carbs,I am running 137.5 main jet.With the power it is making I went with Barnnet Dirt digger clutch.I cant say any thing bad about.I ride it on the trails and the street.I didn't get the bike finished until this spring.So I have only put 1200 miles on it.
  10. 0 comments

    2004 Yamaha YZ 450f - New Wiseco Top End kit installed with factory comp. piston, Renthal Twinwalls, ZipTy Racing Racing Coolant, R&D Powerbowl 1, Carb O-Ring Mod, PG Racing Graphics Wanted to add 2006-2009 Yamaha YZ 450f SSS Front fork tubes and matching rear suspension
  11. 0 comments

    Still one of my favorites, hence why I still have it.
  12. 0 comments

    I love it,I'm try in to build it as far as I can in performance, I'm using Kimble white valve guides and valves I have an aftermarket Norris 340 cam,cobra header n pipe, I'm trying to find the rare 2 plug TC head for 200x , I want to use vintage 80s performance parts , good used,NOS,and I'm gonna combined new ignition tech........I'll add more with process I just strip her back down to paint I'm gonna take pics from how it sits to a finished minster, YES Nitrous is on the list or a turbo charger........I'll update with painting frame etc etc
  13. 0 comments

    Love it, it gave me some problems before the rebuild but now it's better than ever. Big bore gives it crazy bottom end and the cam makes up for that loss off the top. Awesome bike all around.
  14. 0 comments

    Its a 10 year old motocross bike, with very low hours. Perfect for an Enduro conversion. This bike astounds me. One day I'm riding MX on a track, the next I'm riding in the desert on single track. Its unstoppable, and just so easy and forgiving. I love this bike.
  15. 0 comments

    I love it. I can beat 250f's all day with it. These bikes are awesome stock but when you mod them they are even more fun!don't listen to anyone who says a 125 can't beat a 250f. They can! I raced open C on my 125 against 14 250fs and i got 5th over all these 125s haul ass!
  16. 0 comments

    Great bike, has 77mm 277cc kit in it.
  17. I have a 96 KDX 200. Had new topend, and reeds put in about 10 hours ago. I took is down the road really easy 1 time and ran perfect. Coming back I got on it a little but never full throttle in about 4th gear. All of the sudden I heard a real loud knocking noise. I let it sit there and try to idle but then it just quite. I tried kicking it but it was really rough. I pulled the spark plug out and kicked it about 20 times and all seemed normal. Put the plug back in and it was still really rough. It will try to crank but then quite all of the sudden. So I took it apart and replaced crank and all bottom end bearings also the wristpin bearing. Still doing the same thing. Im tired of chasing the problem and need to get to the bottom of this. Any help would be appreciated!
  18. Attention lovers of CRF250Rs! And anyone who appreciates awesome race bikes, for that matter. We have a new bike feature on Jett Lawrence's AMSOIL Honda CRF250R race bike up on our blog, for those that may want to check it out! https://blog.wiseco.com/jett-lawrences-amsoil-honda-crf250r-race-bike-breakdown
  19. WISECO CELEBRATES 80 YEARS WITH A TWO-STROKE BIKE GIVEAWAY Enter to Win a YZ250 in Benefit of Road 2 Recovery MENTOR, Ohio (July 11, 2021) – Wiseco is proudly celebrating its 80th year manufacturing performance pistons by getting back to our roots and giving away a brand-new Yamaha YZ250 two-stroke in partnership with Road 2 Recovery. One lucky rider will win an off-road built YZ250 equipped with some of the best components industry-leading companies have to offer to create an ultimate off-road two-stroke machine. Not only is this in celebration of Wiseco’s anniversary, but more importantly to help fellow riders and the off-road community. Wiseco has partnered with Road 2 Recovery to host the 80th Anniversary two-stroke giveaway. Road 2 Recovery is a nonprofit organization dedicated to helping injured professional riders and other action sports professional athletes with both financial assistance and emotional and spiritual support for the individuals and their families. All entries to win the bike are available through donations made at WinWiseco80.com benefitting Road 2 Recovery. Donations can be made through a single sweepstakes entry purchase or through the purchase of exclusive Wiseco 80th apparel. During the sweepstakes, the purchase of Wiseco 80th apparel can not only increase each entrants’ chances of winning, but will also directly benefit the Road 2 Recovery fund. The Wiseco 80th anniversary two-stroke giveaway is open for entry August 11th , 2021 and will close December 10th, 2021, after which the winner will be announced and contacted shortly. Visit WinWiseco80.com for complete details and follow Wiseco on YouTube, Instagram, and Facebook for more updates. #### Photo Gallery of the giveaway bike
  20. Anyone use and like wiseco pistons? Have to bore my cylinder to 67 and fit a wiseco as that is the best over size brand I can get lol. 804m06700 is the piston, 03 yz250 sleeve cylinder. How many hours do youse get out of them? Not racing, bush riding but not slow riding either. Kinda fast. What is the clearance you set them up at? Forged piston and a sleeved cylinder. Tia.
  21. The clutch system is the most important connection between your hand and the rear wheel, as far as controlling the machine. When working properly, most riders don’t give their clutch a second thought. However, the importance of the clutch quickly snaps into focus when there’s a problem with the system. A clutch is an engineering marvel. Imagine you are on the starting line waiting for the gate to drop. You start your bike and pull in the clutch. What follows is a chain reaction of events. A series of moving parts transfer that load down to the clutch, where the pressure plate is pushed away from the clutch pack, basket and inner hub. At that point, there is a disconnection between the transmission and crankshaft. Clutch functionality involves a series of moving parts that are crucial to engine operation. Periodic maintenance, inspection, and replacement will keep your machine running as it should. Shown here is an exploded view from Yamaha of a YZ250 clutch. With the clutch disengaged, you click the shifter into gear. The gate drops, and you quickly release the clutch lever. The clutch springs force the pressure plate to squeeze the friction and drive plates together, causing the clutch basket and inner hub to synchronize. At that point, the energy generated inside the combustion chamber is carried through the transmission and to the countershaft sprocket, which then transfers the load to the rear wheel. Without an operating clutch, you would be sitting on the starting line as the pack raced away. Suffice it to say that your clutch is a vital piece of the overall puzzle. And, like most parts on your bike, it won’t last forever. Fortunately, there are three general indicators that your clutch is not working properly. You don’t need to be deft or dexterous to determine whether your drive system is giving up the ghost. The only necessities are a handful of tools, basic mechanical knowledge, and a good sense of smell. In this article, we delve into the symptoms, causes and solutions for the most common clutch problems so you can get back to riding. Sign #1: Slipping Away Symptoms: A slipping clutch is quickly recognizable when you’re twisting the throttle with reckless abandon while the machine is in gear, yet the rear wheel isn’t rotating in unison with the engine’s rpm. If you’re wound out in third gear and only accelerating at a snail’s pace, then something is wrong. You may also be able to notice a vague feel at the clutch lever. Either of these symptoms suggest that the internal clutch components need to be inspected for wear. Causes: When a clutch is performing optimally, the drive plates and friction plates are pushed together during clutch engagement (i.e. when the clutch lever is let out). The connection causes the rotation of the clutch basket and the inner hub to synchronize and work as one unit. However, as the plates begin to wear out, the clutch plates will slip against each other instead of grabbing. This prevents the transfer of energy from the engine to the transmission. Unfortunately, clutch slipping is inevitable, even if you aren’t a clutch abuser. Clutch plates wear out over time as a result of rubbing when the clutch is engaged. When experiencing clutch slipping, the likely culprit is worn clutch plates. It's time to disassemble and inspect your steel and fiber plates for wear. It is also possible that the clutch springs have lost their tension. When this happens, the springs aren’t strong enough to effectively pull the pressure plate against the clutch pack. Just as with clutch plates, clutch springs do not last forever. Worn clutch springs can also contribute to a slipping clutch. Read on for an explanation on inspecting your clutch springs. Solutions: When you experience clutch slippage, you’ll need to inspect the drive and steel clutch plates, as well as the clutch springs. To quote Dave Sulecki, Wiseco Powersports Engineer, “It’s very easy to access the clutch on all the new bikes. You can literally lay the bike over on its side, pop off the clutch cover, and start inspecting the components.” Using a vernier caliper or micrometer, measure the thickness of the steel (or aluminum) drive plates, and the fiber plates. Consult your owner’s manual to find the recommended specs. Be sure to also check the free length of the clutch springs. It’s a good idea to replace the drive and fiber plates, as well as the clutch springs. The most accurate way to know if your steels and fibers are worn is to measure them and compare the thickness to the recommended spec range in your owner's manual. Similarly, clutch spring free length can be measured to determine if they are outside of spec and need to be replaced. Replacement clutch components—both in individual components and clutch pack kits—are readily available through aftermarket companies like Wiseco. Replacing your fiber and drive plates at the same time is common practice, and when springs are required as well, all these components are available in kits with fibers, plates, and springs in one box. Each kit is built to OEM specifications and far less expensive, and Wiseco clutch springs feature a stiffer rating for a more positive clutch engagement. Replacement clutch components from Wiseco are available in individual packs of steels, fibers, and springs, as well as in clutch pack kits that include all three. Find Wiseco clutch components for your bike or ATV here. Sign #2: Creeping & Bad Smell Symptoms: The machine is emitting a foul burning smell that could strip paint off a wall. The stench might be so pungent that it’s evident after pulling into the pits. Generally, though, the smell is noticeable after removing the clutch cover. You may also notice your bike creeping forward with the clutch pulled in and the transmission in gear, no matter how much you adjust the clutch cable. Causes: Do the sniff test. Pull the clutch cover off. If you smell burnt clutch material, chances are your clutch will need new components. The burnt smell is the result of the clutch heating up. “The parts that burn first are generally the friction plates. It’s a real obvious odor. You’ll know it when you smell it. Visually, you’ll see the heat marks in the drive plates. The friction plates can also become black in color. The best thing to do is check the plates dimensionally against the specifications in your owner’s manual. Make sure you’re within tolerance on width and flatness,” states Sulecki. Burnt friction plates will typically become black in color and burnt drive plates commonly show dark colored wear marks. Solutions: For starters, you’re going to need to replace the oil. Be sure to pay close attention to the recommended service intervals in your owner’s manual. Doing so can extend the life of your clutch. Sulecki adds, “Fresh oil will help keep things lubricated and running cool. Oil does break down from heat and friction over time. In a lot of engines, the clutch shares oil with the transmission and valve train. Oil gets a lot of opportunity to break down quickly. Keep the oil fresh.” However, the damage of a cooked clutch cannot be undone. Clutch plates can warp over time from the heat. Warped plates cause the clutch to disengage unevenly and create all sorts of headaches. You will need to invest in new friction and drive plates, at least. However, heat could also damage the clutch springs, effecting spring tension. Be sure to inspect all your clutch components. If you find your clutch components have been subjected to excessive heat, it's always a good idea to at least replace the drive plates, fibers, and springs (when applicable). Sign #3: Feeling A Drag Symptoms: The clutch lever feels lumpy during clutch engagement/disengagement. Sometimes the lever can feel jerky. These are telltale signs that the clutch basket and/or inner hub is damaged and needs inspection. Causes: If your machine has the OEM/stock clutch basket, it was likely made using a diecast aluminum material. While fairly lightweight, durability is not stellar. “When you cast aluminum, you take molten aluminum and pour it into a mold. Once it has solidified, it gets processed from there into a finished part. When the material is molded it is generally not very dense. You get a lot of voids, porosity, inclusions, and imperfections in the material. The constituents inside the material aren’t bonded tightly against each other,” states Sulecki. The most common wear on cast clutch baskets is notching on the edge of the tangs where the clutch plates engage. The inner hub can be inspected for similar wear. If you see notching like this, it's time for a replacement. Solutions: There are a variety of aftermarket clutch basket options that use different manufacturing processes. Billet is a common alternative to casting, but even that has downfalls. Sulecki explains, “With billet, you’ll start with a cast piece of aluminum. It will generally get compressed a little bit in a forge press or some sort of pressure casting. That’s to condense the material a little tighter. Then the part is machined from the solid piece of metal. It has slightly better properties than a cast part, but not as much as a forged part.” Forging is a very intricate and involved process. It begins with a cast and drawn bar of aluminum material, which is then smashed until all of the molecules are bonded to each other. This makes the material much denser and creates what engineers refer to as feature aligned grain flow. Basically all of the grains in the material are forced to flow up through the features–particularly the tangs on the clutch basket and stanchions on the inner hub–for greater strength. All of the material properties improve–from tensile to fatigue to ultimate strength. Ductility is also improved, meaning the material can bend before it breaks. Cast and billet constructed clutch baskets are susceptible to wear. This is why Wiseco forges their clutch baskets in house before machining them, achieving greater tensile strength and wear resistance. Sulecki adds, “The denser material is very resistant to impact and fatigue, which are two critical components of a clutch basket. Impact is caused by the clutch plates as they drive against the tangs on the clutch basket. Clutch plates will actually start to create indentations on a stock cast part, and dimples on a billet basket. In turn, the plates can’t slide smoothly across the width of the tab as you pull in the clutch lever to disengage the clutch. A forged clutch basket’s resistance to impact means that it will not develop notches in the tangs.” Suffice it to say that forging is the superior material for clutch basket durability and lasting performance. Check out all the technical details on Wiseco clutch baskets here. The forged material creates much greater resistance to impact from the clutch plates during operation, providing a seemingly lifetime solution to tang notching. To cap it off, Wiseco hard coat anodizes and coats their forged clutch baskets with Teflon. Hard coat anodizing aids in wear and abrasion resistance, as well as improves lubricity and corrosion resistance. Teflon coating is the last process. It helps fulfill the wear resistance and lubricity that Wiseco requires for their clutch baskets. Hard coat anodizing and teflon coating finish off Wiseco clutch baskets for ultimate wear resistance and smooth operation. Find a Wiseco clutch basket for your machine here. Lifetime Guarantee It’s interesting to note that Wiseco has been manufacturing forged clutch baskets, pressure plates and inner hubs for years, but this all-too-important detail has flown under the radar. “Our forged clutch basket is the best product we make that nobody knows about,” says Sulecki. The performance-driven powersports magnate is so resolute in the durability of their forged clutch baskets that they offer a lifetime guarantee against notching and breakage. What does that mean? You’ll buy it once and never have to worry about it again. Related Reading: How to Replace the Clutch Basket in your Motorcycle
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