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Showing results for tags 'Wr426F'.
Found 49 results
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I wanted to be able to remove my fender packs when i don't need them...but i also like the security of the bolt-on design, rather than the strap on type of packs. Here is my solution. Chuck the pins in the worlds smallest vise and use a cutting wheel, or hacksaw to cut them just above the first hitch pin hole. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!! Cutting wheels have a tendency to fly apart whenever they want to...and riding is tough with one eye. Then chamfer and smooth the rough ends with the worlds smallest bench grinder. *I have a pretty small garage, so you will notice many of my tools are also of Lilliputian dimensions Now, you have used the bolt holes in your fender pack as a template to drill the appropriate holes in your fender. Here we see the trimmed Clevis pins with washers inserted into the underside of the fender holes, and epoxied in place. Here we see the finished product from the top of the fender. This is the way it will look when you don't want to lug around your packs. Now, you can use the hitch pins to secure your fender bag in a snap...and still take it off easily!! Here is my headlight shroud getting the same treatment. And the finished product, the way it looks when you don't want to take your packs. And here it is with my moose tool pack attached All done!!!!
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Anybody with a current/past WR426 project please feel free to post your progress here. I'm in the process of restoring my 2001 WR426 and getting it street legal; I paid $1600 for the bike and so far have put about $486 into it. If anyone has questions about the street legal process or the parts needed just ask below.
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Hey Guys, i've noticed a ticking noise when i'm moving my bike around. It's quite loud and i thought it was just the chain on front sprocket but on closer inspection the sound does not match the rotation of sprocket tooth/chain so it really must be coming from the sprocket shaft inside the gearbox. Having never had this box apart and facing a mammoth task if i do so, would anyone have some advice or history with this? is it normal? wear and tear and to be ignored? or is it undercutting/mis-alignment of gears and about to grenade on me? -
I bought this 426 last year for $1400 cash. At that time, it ran pretty great. I was riding it medium hard in 5th gear and it quit on me very much like a solid killswitch, and hasn't fired since. Took the stator cover off and theres alot of oil in there, I know it needs a full rebuild.. Dealership says it'll be about $2grand, and obviously my concern is how to get around that high of a price to get this thing back in tip-top shape. Can someone kindly list my options as far as low cost mechanics? Or salvage bikes (even other than a 426)? Any suggestions? Everything else about this bike is flawless perfect, not a bushing is worn out, it's never been ran hard, and it has never had any kind of real maintenance. It's in too good of shape to junk..
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All around good bike, very reliable. I am the second owner -
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First bike. -
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WR426F -
15 reviews
GENERAL INFORMATION Model: Yamaha WR 400 F Year: 2002 Category: Enduro / offroad Rating: 78.6 out of 100. ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION Displacement: 399.00 ccm (24.35 cubic inches) Engine type: Single cylinder, four-stroke Power: 45.00 HP (32.8 kW)) @ 9000 RPM Cooling system: Liquid Gearbox: 5-speed Transmission type, final drive: Chain CHASSIS, SUSPENSION, BRAKES AND WHEELS Front brakes: Single disc Rear brakes: Single disc PHYSICAL MEASURES AND CAPACITIES Dry weight: 114.0 kg (251.3 pounds) Power/weight ratio: 0.3947 HP/kg Seat height: 991 mm (39.0 inches) If adjustable, lowest setting. Wheelbase: 1,490 mm (58.7 inches) Fuel capacity: 8.00 litres (2.11 gallons) OTHER SPECIFICATIONS Color options: Blue -
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I like it. Throaty and torque'ey. -
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fghfghfdgh -
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Great so far. -
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Fun time! Started as a yz 426f -
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Motor keeps going strong. Only issue I had was the output shaft splines got stripped, requiring me to split the case. This was probably due to way too many clutch ups haha -
Hi guys thort I might share my cafe racer build at the moment the bike is in motard trim a good start but way to much plastic and crap thats about to change
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So I am converted my 426 to a dual sport ( well, am in the process) However I need some help with the stator wiring. I picked up the WR426 stator just to charge a 12v battery I am putting in the air box. I bought the needed regulator/rectifier (trail tech) to convert the ac (stator) to the dc (battery) to charge it. The 12v battery will be lighting a 35w 12v polisport headlight, tusk tail light and turn signals and a horn. I am just curious as to if I need to mod the stator to work with the yz wiring or of the regulator/rectifier does that. Plus I have no clue how to wire the headlight. It has 3 prongs for the main light (the wiring diagram said ground, medium, maximum) then had a tiny lithe bulb to the side that says 4w and has two little wires that are a 2 pin connector, and like i said i have the tusk wiring kit which has the main switch for the head light but only has 3 wires for a main headlight a low beam and then a high beam, other than this, the bike is ready to go and I am dying to get it out on the road.
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Hi Everyone, I'm converting my yz426f for the street, doing the WR stator/flywheel swap. I want to keep it simple so I was planning on keeping the AC circuit. I've heard that AC will not run the flasher unit for the blinkers. I thought this would only be true if I was running LEDs, which I am not. Will the AC system run the blinkers? I appreciate the help. -Jeff
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Yo, I currently ride an 02 xt225, and have an opportunity to pick up an 02 WR426f in good shape. I'm really excited cause it'd feel like a rocket compared to my xt. I'm willing to put in the time and money to get it ready to pass a street legal inspection, but I'm not sure if it even can because of the mso possibly saying "not for highway use." Does anyone know if this will work/is it worth trying? I live in Kansas. Any info will help! Thanks.
