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Found 17 results

  1. MavXR

    XR 400 Trans ratio

    I have read the old threads on changing the gear ratios on a XR 400, They claim it is possible to use the gears out of a EX 400, at least 1st gear. However I could not find where anyone had actually done this. Has anyone ever made the switch with the EX 400 1st gear into a XR 400.
  2. Tanker01

    1983 XR350R

    Picked up a partially disassembled '83 XR350R Was wondering if anyone had any insight to specific quirks of these bikes. I have a '85 XR600R so I am used to tuning the dual carbs already and messing with valve lash. Came with XRs Only Exhaust (not pictured) and I have 98% of the parts I need to reassemble it. I think it needs rewired. There is not a voltage regulator on it currently. Also I have some spare parts for 83-85 XR350R's that came with this bike that I will list in case anyone wants to buy em cheap.
  3. I have a very low hour XR 250 (1987) that the shifting has become increasingly difficult / notchy. Seems to be worse when bike is hot / warm but is still difficult when cold. Rode 50 miles of single track and fire roads last night and couldn't shift very well from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, etc... It seemed very 'hard' to shift and was notchy. The only consistent way to get bike to shift on the way back was to 'HEEL SHIFT' on the way up for gears 3 through 6. I know this is not right. My 1978 RM 100 shifted better than this (so I know something is very wrong). Although I'm not very mechanically inclined, I have ridden a few older model Hondas and each shifted very well...... Bike seemed to downshift 'okay' but was still notchy. I did have a hard time finding neutral at the end of ride yesterday when I was done- that was a first. I have changed the oil every 2-4 hours of use since I've had it. Oil and filter just changed 2 days ago when getting bike ready for the season. Oil lever is correct and check the exact way as in the Service Manual description. The previous owner who was a Honda guy through and through and used Rotella oil- told me to do same. I used that oil last year but changed to the Honda GN4 when I noticed shifting being a bit hard on the last ride in the previous Fall. Probably not an oil issue (I guess..) but just wanted to try that first. I have had no crashes/ falls to damage the bike / shift lever. A possibly related issue? is that my clutch doesn't seem to be functioning right... The motor only engages when clutch is 3/4 out (away) from the grip. I did a separate post on this but wanted to mention in case it is helpful. Thanks for any useful input. I do have a service manual but don't have a mechanical background. I'd like to see if I can have a reasonable chance to fix first. The local Honda shop where I am is not very helpful and they charge alot of $$$$$ to do almost nothing. I took my bike there once and they scratched the shit out of my rear hub and scratched my swing arm when they put my new rear tire on (you get the idea..). I also recognize that the bike is 31 yrs old..... Not being used much maybe caused some issues? Thanks in advance for help and information.
  4. Hey guys, I just bought an XR650L (my 2nd) that had been used in enduro events for nearly 10 years. From there, it sat in a garage for about 5 years. I took it under my wing, and am trying to bring it back to life. It employs a high-compression piston, aftermarket cam, and 38mm Mikuni flat-slide carb. I cleaned the carb and entire fuel system, changed the oil, and replaced the spark plug, air filter and battery. Surprisingly, it started after only a few tries! Not surprisingly, it won't start or idle without choke. It idles high, and sputters until it dies when I wean off the choke or twist the throttle. It will rev smoothly with choke on. I'm new to the forum, thanks a TON for any input whatsoever!
  5. Thought I'd start a thread for ideas for products or services anybody would like to see available for purchase.. May already be a similar thread, this place is huge, move thread if needed... * Drilled & tapped suspension bolts with zirts for easy greasing. * Drilled & tapped suspension linkage & components with grease zirts & new bushings, bearings, seals, & bolts. 'Renew' kits that bolt right on, possibly a core charge refunded when customer returns usable original units, tho we all know some of these parts get WASTED when run dry too long. NOTE: There are a lot of different linkage ratios & link lengths that have been used over the years, this service could compile data & offer changes to customize suspension tuning. * CRF #crank with oil inlet drilled larger & big end cage eliminated, with many more individual rollers & thrust washers on each side of crankpin instead. I'd suggest using the #Carillo #rod as it HAS to be the highest quality I've seen. Crank explosions may become a thing of the past... * Aftermarket CRF #cases, $650 or so is a BIT ridiculous for a pair. May be able to get billet CNC machined cases, like has been done for #CR500. may be a whole new life waiting for CRFs with #stroker cranks & bigger #sleeve. CRF750 anyone??? CRF1000??? * #Turbo chargers for CRFs - I'm sure we could get JE to produce thick dome lower CR #pistons... With above mentioned cranks, may be looking at 100~150 HP before going big bore OR stroker... Just need to be able to get into Honda's #EFI #programming for changes, likely already available out there. * Bolt on oil cooler kits for the various CRFs, along with temp indicator, possibly fan option. * Aftermarket #stator kits with 12v lighting & accy circuit. * Electric motor kits for ALL those rolling chassis out there. Lots of private efforts on #Youtube. Some are VERY fast. * Fold up ramp kits that replace truck tailgates. * #Engine #swap kits to put XR-XL #engines in CRF #chassis. *****************************************Some of the above may well already be in use, either via aftermarket, private teams, or adaptable from other models or other models not sold in USA. *****************************************#Honda #CR #CRF #CRF450 #XR #XL #AMA #AMAPro #AMAProRacing #TT #HillClimb #Baja #CamelPro #FlatTrack #Motocross #MX #Supercross #SX #Race #Racing #Competition #MotorSports #Business #Opportunity #Opportunities #Money #MoneyMaker #Entrepreneur #twitter ***************************************** dhoelcher@gmail.com
  6. Looking for some advice/ ideas for my 1987 clutch issue. I have a very low hour (20-25hr max..) 87 XR 250 that I purchased last year. The engine engages only when the clutch is 3/4 the way out from the bar grip. I want to know how to properly adjust the clutch cable and see if adjustment is my problem or if I have a bigger issue. I do have a Honda Service Manual for this bike year but I'll be the first to admit I do not have a mechanical background. I just don't want to ruin anything and / or damage the clutch buy being ignorant and making stupid mistakes / adjustments. I do see I can adjust at the perch and that there are 2 bolts down where clutch goes into right side of motor. I also readily recognize that the bike is 31 yrs old and there may be some issues because of its overall lack of use........ I have been looking through threads this AM. I found one (which I'll paste here). If anyone has any useful tips / advice, would be much appreciated. In addition, shifting seems very notchy on yesterday's ride and has become more notchy with more riding. Getting harder to shift into gear, shift through gears, and hard to find neutral. I will do a separate post on shifting but wanted to add this point in for any of the Gurus who might pose the question about how bike is shifting and current clutch operation. Thanks in advance for any info. and responses. Here's the paste from a previous post on clutch adjustment I found: It's possible to adjust it too tight which causes the clutch to stay partially disengaged, causing a constant slipping condition, wearing out the clutch in short order. You want at least a hair slack in the lever/cable. Try this, turn the adjuster at the lever on the bars all the way in. Then down at the crankcase lever adjustment, adjust that farther away from the lever, leaving enough for the jam nuts to tighten. Then go back up to the lever at the bars and come out with that adjustment til slack in the lever is taken up. See how close this gets you. I usually use my finger to see how tight the cable is at the crankcase lever while actuating the lever at the bars. I want very slight deflection of the cable there with the clutch lever released. If I can tell very little difference deflecting the cable with my finger while activating the clutch lever and it being released, then I have it adjusted too tight. Did you happen to have a new cable installed at the same time as the clutch work? If so, a wrong length cable could be giving you grief too. - Thanks again to everyone.
  7. CrenulateMist

    1983 Honda XR350 Oil

    I am running conventional 20W40 oil in my bike, is this too heavy? Should I switch to synthetic oil? Thanks
  8. SoCalXR600Rmonkey

    New Source for Oil Temp gauge

    greetings all. i have a few XRs, XLs etc. i have one Vapor gauge pod which reads oil temp if set up that way. so i needed something else for the other bikes. heard too many stories of XRs only piece coming apart. so i poked around on the internet and found this site: https://www.motorcycledipsticks.com so i wrote them asking if they had any product suitable for my XR's. John, the owner promptly got back to me and indicated he had no current XR items available. but if i sent him some dimensions, that he would make something up for me. here is what he sent: i realize that the gauge doesn't go 300deg, but so far i haven't gone past 240 when riding. in my testing on the stove, the gauge was linear all the way around to zero. John cautions that the gauge isn't accurate until it's past 100deg. he also mentioned that the thermometer dial can be easily rotated in any direction once installed with no damage. i did let him know that a top value of 300 was preferred by most and that the length could be longer to aid in accurate levels. i am pretty ok with their length and scale. others may not be. i can say that construction appears to be top notch and the one in black had a great finish. i have misplaced the paperwork but i believe they came with a 1yr warrranty (don't hold me to it tho') please feel free to check out the site or drop john an email. i am not affiliated with john in any way, just wanted to mention an alternative to XR's Only and
  9. RB500

    NC Title revoked

    New here so if I am not in the correct place please point me in the correct direction.. Anyone ever have a NC motorcycle title revoked? I have an XR400 (that was titled, registered and plated in KS) that I purchased in KS about 4 years back. Transferred the title and registered it in NC (nothing on the title about off road only). It has been plated, inspected and ridden in NC for the last 4+ years. I get a letter in the mail that says my title has been cancelled and ordered to surrender my title. I called DMV and inquired. They said the bike was not road worthy. I explained that it has been registered, insured, plated on the NC roads for the last 4+ years. Inspected each year by NC certified inspection station. They said I must surrender the title. I asked on what grounds because it was just inspected and passed. I was told by the lady on the phone "Because I said so". Anyone experience similar. Help!!!!
  10. After a tire size mishap, the XR650 is back up and running again! The 17" wheels completely transform this thing! Honestly, before I put these on I was almost regretting trading in my R6 for it but now I couldn't be happier. I didn't get to push it too hard because of the brand new rubber but from the short ride I took I can tell this thing is gonna be a monster! I jumped on a set of Warp 9 elites I sniped off ebay and put a set of Metzeler M5 Sportec tires on it . The oversized rotor makes this thing stop on a dime. It takes some getting used to, the brakes are ALOT more sensitive. It doesn't take much lever pull to make the front end dive fast. Overall, I would definitely recommend this to anyone considering supermotoing their XR! The only problem left to solve is rigging up a speedometer to it. I put a phone mount on the bars with a GPS Speedo app that has an odometer so I can still track mileage but I'd like to have a permanent mount Speedo on it. I know alot of people run the Trail tech but there's not that much left in the budget at the moment.
  11. Australian Psycho

    TTR-250 Larger Fuel Tank

    So I've confronted with a problem, I'm looking for a larger fuel tank for a Yamaha TTR-250. I know the Acerbis 20L tanks are a option but the ones for Honda XR-650 can be used and their someone who sells a mounting kit for them. Which is great but would a 20L Acerbis TTR-250 Tank fit straight on using what's provided in box. Or would I need to fabricate mounts. Which is what I'm trying to avoid. If the TTR-250 Tank requires fabrication, I'll go for the XR's Tank and the kit. There's just a miscommunication, on EBay the item just says mounting included but it earlier states you need to make mounts. Does anyone have experience?
  12. I just got my 83 Honda XR350 rebuilt by a local shop as it was burning oil heavily. I was doing some research into my bike and have learned that these bikes are especially lean out of the factory. Would I be able to richen using the mixture screw on the carb? Or would i need to rejet completely? Has anyone had any horror stories from not rejetting the lean bike? Thanks
  13. photonicreno

    94 XR650L No electric start

    Hi all! I've got an issue, one of many when it comes to bikes. I searched throughout all the pages I could find pertaining to my situation and couldn't find very much useful information. So the issue is, the bike has no electric start.... until it's hot enough to melt steel that is. It will bump start first time every time. But I can sit and crank the starter over for ever and it'll never start until the charger is bumped up past 200 amps. Not good. The story so far, Got the bike for 1k cash. Guy said it has no spark and no second gear. This particular guy also only ever rode newer crotch rockets. Brought it home pulled the choke, attached battery charger and she fired right up. Ran like absolute crap, but oh well I figure it's an older bike with only 10k miles so it probably needs a good carb cleaning. Took the carb apart and didn't know I messed something up until way later(didn't tighten down main jet). Oh well she runs well enough if I can get her started. Moved from California to Oklahoma. Eventually found the money to fix 2nd gear, and as I am a certified Honda small engine technician apprentice I figured it would be no big deal. Completely tore down engine to it's roots replaced 2nd, and 5th gear(because 5th gear connects to 2nd on the countershaft) dogs were worn pretty badly on both. The engine looked quite good compared to most others I've seen. Put the engine back together as per the service manual. Did all the right steps including loosening the banjo bolts to test for proper oil pressure. I even tore apart the electric starter to clean the contacts and the brushes and replace the dielectric grease. Adjusted the valves as per the service manual, replaced all gaskets, o-rings, seals, and oil filter. Finally after about a month of waiting on parts and reassembly I get to start her, only she doesn't. Electric start is still giving me the same issues I've always had. So I replaced the Ignition coil, CDI box, and put a new battery in, plus the starter motor rebuild. Nothing. Still cranks forever. I said what the heck and tried to push it slightly down hill and bump start it, and voila... fired right up! Once she gets hot enough and the stator charges the battery enough it'll electric start... sometimes. So I looked towards ignition, used a tool called ignition mate. Pretty awesome tool if you can afford it. Well while cranking the ignition mate reads the spark plug is getting 1-4kw of "spark" every cycle, well it only fires after getting up past 5kw sometimes 6-8kw. And sometimes the ignition would be intermittent as in it wouldn't give any spark at all. I cycle the ignition and it seems to soft reset the bike as it will usually give it back spark. I tested this with the new and old CDI box, the old one would never spark. Ever. So I threw it in the trash. A month later I stil l can't figure it out. Is there something I'm missing? TL;DR Bike won't start using electric start only bump start before and after engine rebuild Electric start works after pushing the starter past about 200 cold cranking amps or when hot.
  14. JFoVStar650

    XR100 Jetting

    2003 XR100. Installed new FMF exhaust, new carb (OEM size) with 105 main and 40 pilot, and UNI pod filter. Started up first kick and will idle but won't rev up. I referenced the jetting chart on BBR website. Confirmed choke is off. Bike idles smooth and will rev if teisting the throttle slowly, but nothing if twisting the throttle fast. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance,
  15. Hello all, There's been a lot of talk about how to register a dirt bike in states that don't allow it. I just moved to North Carolina and for the first time in my life might be able to afford a bike. I've been dreaming about an XR650R for a long time, but they're not cheap. Plated bikes seem to be more expensive too. So here's my question, has anyone tried to plate a dirt bike by adding all the necessary features and having it inspected as a custom bike? Anyone know of another way I can plate an xr650 in NC? Thanks
  16. Did my search, couldnt find a post like this... If there is one, please admins, remove this one. 🤝 So what you did to her today? 🔧 And in my first post, i did a hole to be able to adjust the headlight, sometimes when i ride with weight besides myself the light gets too hi, and cars get mad at me... So with the holes, now im able to adjust light height in a breeze. Ideas are welcome 🏍️
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