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Found 17 results

  1. rodriguescdrr

    XR 400 Hi/Low Headlight

    Hello everybody, I am in the process of converting my 2004 Honda XR400 into a supermoto. In order to do so i need a headlight with Hi/Low capability to pass street inspection. From what i see with the stock headlight bulb it only supports low beam ability. I want to keep the stock headlight frame if possible while doing the conversion. I have read that some people have found H3 bulbs that are dual filament, which would be ideal for me, but i cant seem to find these bulbs for sale anywhere. At this point it seems that i may have to just order an aftermarket headlight like a polisport or something just to get the hi/low beam capability, which is unfortunate. If anyone has any tips or suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  2. I have a very low hour XR 250 (1987) that the shifting has become increasingly difficult / notchy. Seems to be worse when bike is hot / warm but is still difficult when cold. Rode 50 miles of single track and fire roads last night and couldn't shift very well from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, etc... It seemed very 'hard' to shift and was notchy. The only consistent way to get bike to shift on the way back was to 'HEEL SHIFT' on the way up for gears 3 through 6. I know this is not right. My 1978 RM 100 shifted better than this (so I know something is very wrong). Although I'm not very mechanically inclined, I have ridden a few older model Hondas and each shifted very well...... Bike seemed to downshift 'okay' but was still notchy. I did have a hard time finding neutral at the end of ride yesterday when I was done- that was a first. I have changed the oil every 2-4 hours of use since I've had it. Oil and filter just changed 2 days ago when getting bike ready for the season. Oil lever is correct and check the exact way as in the Service Manual description. The previous owner who was a Honda guy through and through and used Rotella oil- told me to do same. I used that oil last year but changed to the Honda GN4 when I noticed shifting being a bit hard on the last ride in the previous Fall. Probably not an oil issue (I guess..) but just wanted to try that first. I have had no crashes/ falls to damage the bike / shift lever. A possibly related issue? is that my clutch doesn't seem to be functioning right... The motor only engages when clutch is 3/4 out (away) from the grip. I did a separate post on this but wanted to mention in case it is helpful. Thanks for any useful input. I do have a service manual but don't have a mechanical background. I'd like to see if I can have a reasonable chance to fix first. The local Honda shop where I am is not very helpful and they charge alot of $$$$$ to do almost nothing. I took my bike there once and they scratched the shit out of my rear hub and scratched my swing arm when they put my new rear tire on (you get the idea..). I also recognize that the bike is 31 yrs old..... Not being used much maybe caused some issues? Thanks in advance for help and information.
  3. cmbthumper

    Extended Air Fuel Screw

    Did a search and found info on the Extended Idle Screw but nothing for a Extended Air Fuel Screw. I see ones on Fleabay for CRF's but not XR's. I will be jetting for the first time hopefully this weekend and thought this would be a good idea since I will be more than likely adjusting it constantly as I learn. Is this even necessary and if so is there an Extended Air Fuel Screw you use and recommend?
  4. 661Bran28den661

    Bogging out in 2nd 01 XR400R

    What’s up guys. Totally new here picked up an XR400R I live in the desert so I’m riding often and enjoy it. But I am having some issues with my 01 XR400R. I brought it out this morning for a putt and it seems to be choking up in the top of second. Like a bog an go bog an go. First seemed fine and third I didn’t make it high enough into the rpms to see. Before I brought it back to the garage. Yesterday I also changed the air filter back to an uni. I had seen the other one had a hole in it and the box was dirty gunned up and oily. I removed the airbox gave it a good clean out wiped everything down very well put a piece of screen over the snorkel Or where it used to be I should say. “Lightly oiled the filter.Also the spark arrester an tip for the bike it did not come with I ended up making one with a piece of flat steel and drilling holes. Whilst doing this. I found also a crack in the pipe. It almost sounds as like there’s a vacuuming or whistle? When revving.The first one I had made worked fine I had no issues. This one I am wondering maybe if it’s a cause of a little too much back pressure.So I’m assuming it’s either a Carb or exhaust problem. Or something that could totally be minuscule. Or major issue. Would definitely like some second opinions and any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys! TWISTIN THROTTLES & CRACKN BOTTLES
  5. Hello yall, so i have honda xr400 witha wisweco 416 borekit in it and a tm36 mikuni pumpercarb in it. Whenever i ride it, it backfires when i decelerate. No leaks what so ever. The airscrew is currently at 2 turns out right now and jetting is 15 pilot 130 main and float is at 19mm. i live at an altitude of 167'. Any ideas what might be going wrong? Would I need to change jetting? float level? need info asap thank you.
  6. This guy has done about every modification to his bike including a Pumper carb, bore kit, new exhaust and air filter yet he says the new ignition iis the "most powerful mod ever" Have you heard of replacing the entire ignition system to a modified one? Here is what he says about it. More info in the link below. "Just recently I have found one of the MOST POWERFUL mods I have ever done! This is a new mod that was completely unheard to me! I am amazed that everyone I mention it to hasn't heard of it! This one single MOD costs $350 TOTAL. And makes the 400 feel like it's on nitrous! In other words: the bike will wind up so fast it will feel like the clutch is slipping! This mod is the use of an ENTIRELY NEW IGNITION designed by White Brothers. This is AN ENTIRE IGNITION system; NOT SOME STUPID BOX THAT JUST GIVES IT MORE TOP END!!!!! This is an entire ignition system with a faster advance curve. The entire timing curve is more advance throughout the whole poweband. Since the XR is a green sticker legal bike it's timing is drastically retarded making it's emission much lower AT THE EXPENSE OF HORSEPOWER and TORQUE!!!! This is THE MOST POWERFUL ENGINE MOD YOU CAN DO TO YOUR 400 (even if you don;'t have the Mikuni 36 Pumper on it!). They guy who turned me on to this mod works at ALL SPORTS HONDA BMW in Grand Junction Colorado. His name is Tony and is one of the sharpest guys I know on all the latest aftermarket tips and tricks for XR's. This complete ignition systems normally sell for $330 plus shipping (and or sales tax). However, I got mine for only $300 delivered and you can too. You can call Tony at 1-970-243-7730 for details. Mention my name and get it for $300 delivered. P.S. Feel free to call me for more details about this mod. I also learned some more neat things in testing even more exhaust systems (i.e. FMF PowerBomb Header etc.) P.P.S. Recently purchased a 2000 650R from Scott Summers. However, the paperwork is a little lost right now so I have been unable to ride it to the dirt as in my state they'll impound it without insurance. Hope to hear from ya! Jay Peters " http://www.justxr.com/info/xr4report4.html What are your thoughts on this ignition modification?
  7. Brand new here and I could not find a thread that matched my issues (which are many and not just with motorcycles ). If you know of a thread that matches what I describe below, please send me that way. I have been riding for a few years (mostly dirt/desert) but am not well versed and know just enough to get me into trouble. Please be patient as I try to explain this. Thanks. I bought a plated 2001 Honda XR400 about three months ago (Bike has a 440 kit - seller told me the Keihin carb jets were changed to accommodate the 440 kit. I am not sure the jetting numbers). It ran fine but about a month after purchase it started to run rough and then sometimes would die as I came to a stop. I could feather the throttle to save it if I caught it in time. Eventually it became hard to start. It would start up then die about 30 seconds to a minute after starting. Sometimes I could just go through my process to start and it would work, other times I would have to let it sit for 20 minutes then try again. On one occasion, I rode to work (about 5 miles) and stopped in our parking lot to talk to a co-worker. I turned off the bike. When I was done talking to him a few minutes later, the bike would not start up. After I finished work at the end of the day, the bike started fine. Gas was new. I figured it was a carb issue (dirty, gummed up, clogged, etc) I decided it was time to do a through cleaning. I checked connections, removed gas tank, took the carb apart and cleaned it. While it was apart, I found out the gaskets were falling apart, so I ordered new ones. In the process of taking it apart, I accidentally bent the needle (ugh). I ordered a new one. I also installed a new fuel filter and spark plug. The old plug had carbon deposits and was dark so I it looks like it was running rich. Im not sure how long that plug has been in there. After getting the parts I reassembled the carb and now it will not start. I confirmed I have spark, and fuel flow. I double checked connections to the carb and the pilot screw was set at 1.5 turns out from all the way in. The jet needle clip was placed in the middle ring (same as the one I replaced it with). I also did a fresh oil change. I am at a loss. I really would like to fix this myself, but can't figure it out. I also own an XR200 and and dirt only XR400 which I have done maintenance and service on including taking the carb apart and they run just fine. I thought I would tap the collective experience here as I have searched these threads for some time to troubleshoot problems. I will probably take the carb out again on Monday to double check I put it back together correctly if I don't get any other suggestions here.
  8. cmbthumper

    cmbthumper XR400

    Test Rode a AZ plated 2000 Honda XR400 tonight. Last dirt bike was my 97' XR600 i converted to dual sport. Forgot how addicting the low down and Mid TQ was and then the Mid to High "On the Cam" felt. All i can say is that i put in an offer IF he got a CA license plate. Fingers crossed. Started the thread just in case it happens.
  9. Is it a wise or a waste of money to replace all the bearings, even if they are in spec? I have the engine apart to replace piston, rings, cam chain. It is a 2001 XR400 that was in great shape before being stolen 1.5 years ago. I recently recovered it and while it started up it took a lot more kicks than it used to. Used to start up 2 or 3 kick all the time. Checked compression and it was at the border of ok.
  10. Looking for some advice/ ideas for my 1987 clutch issue. I have a very low hour (20-25hr max..) 87 XR 250 that I purchased last year. The engine engages only when the clutch is 3/4 the way out from the bar grip. I want to know how to properly adjust the clutch cable and see if adjustment is my problem or if I have a bigger issue. I do have a Honda Service Manual for this bike year but I'll be the first to admit I do not have a mechanical background. I just don't want to ruin anything and / or damage the clutch buy being ignorant and making stupid mistakes / adjustments. I do see I can adjust at the perch and that there are 2 bolts down where clutch goes into right side of motor. I also readily recognize that the bike is 31 yrs old and there may be some issues because of its overall lack of use........ I have been looking through threads this AM. I found one (which I'll paste here). If anyone has any useful tips / advice, would be much appreciated. In addition, shifting seems very notchy on yesterday's ride and has become more notchy with more riding. Getting harder to shift into gear, shift through gears, and hard to find neutral. I will do a separate post on shifting but wanted to add this point in for any of the Gurus who might pose the question about how bike is shifting and current clutch operation. Thanks in advance for any info. and responses. Here's the paste from a previous post on clutch adjustment I found: It's possible to adjust it too tight which causes the clutch to stay partially disengaged, causing a constant slipping condition, wearing out the clutch in short order. You want at least a hair slack in the lever/cable. Try this, turn the adjuster at the lever on the bars all the way in. Then down at the crankcase lever adjustment, adjust that farther away from the lever, leaving enough for the jam nuts to tighten. Then go back up to the lever at the bars and come out with that adjustment til slack in the lever is taken up. See how close this gets you. I usually use my finger to see how tight the cable is at the crankcase lever while actuating the lever at the bars. I want very slight deflection of the cable there with the clutch lever released. If I can tell very little difference deflecting the cable with my finger while activating the clutch lever and it being released, then I have it adjusted too tight. Did you happen to have a new cable installed at the same time as the clutch work? If so, a wrong length cable could be giving you grief too. - Thanks again to everyone.
  11. Hi Guys, So I recently bought a 1997 XR400. I've done some research into getting more power through some basic mods and rejetting the carbs. Though all of the ones I've found have been for post 98 XR400s so the stock carb set up is a lot different. Usually people are opening up the airbox, exhaust ect. ect. and Jetting their carbs up to 160/162 for mains around 60 ish (I think) for the pilot. However for the 97 model this is close to stock for the jets. So essentially what Im asking (Just to cut to the chase ) Has anyone got a 96/97 (maybe 98, not sure) XR400 and has done these similar mods, and what sort of jetting have to done as a result. Thanks in advanced, also its my first post so apologies if I havent done everything correctly.
  12. Robert Malcolm John Livingstone

    Cheap shock

    javascript:; have any of you brought any of these cheap shocks are they any good or stick with buying well known expensive brands?
  13. rodriguescdrr

    XR 400 Hi/Low Headlight

    I am in the process of converting my 2004 Honda XR400 into a supermoto. In order to do so i need a headlight with Hi/Low capability to pass street inspection. From what i see with the stock headlight bulb it only supports low beam ability. I want to keep the stock headlight frame if possible while doing the conversion. I have read that some people have found H3 bulbs that are dual filament, which would be ideal for me, but i cant seem to find these bulbs for sale anywhere. At this point it seems that i may have to just order an aftermarket headlight like a polisport or something just to get the hi/low beam capability, which is unfortunate. If anyone has any tips or suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  14. gretschbang

    How to start an XR400

    If you found this, you are probably frustrated by difficulties in starting an XR400, I can tell you this, there is no "fool-proof" way of starting this beast of a machine, but, I have had 100% success starting my 2003 XR400 in one or two "hard" kicks for the past 10 years. I will add, for color, that prior to about 2008, I tried many different methods, but most of them were hit and miss at best leaving me frustrated and sitting next to what amounted to a 200 lb anchor. I know you want to get to the solution, and what I'm about to write may just cause greater frustration, but this is absolutely critical to successful, happy, ownership and enjoyment of this torque-monster. First: you have to have the correct jetting of the carburetor. The best way I have found to keep the jetting at the correct values is to call ahead to a Honda Powersports Repair shop in the area I'm going to ride and ask them what they install for XR400 owners in their area. Elevation above sea-level is the key variable here. Asking someone in San Diego what they recommend is useless if you are going to ride at 5000 ft MSL in the Sierras. If you are running too rich or too lean, you will have so many problems with starting, running, and servicing that you will absolutely hate the machine. Second (and Fourth): Successful starting of an XR400 is tightly tied to proper shut-down practices. Over time, I found that leaving gasoline in the float-bowl for even more than a few hours led to problems in starting. When shutting down for more than a few minutes, I suggest you don't just push the kill-switch. Instead, turn the fuel-petcock to "Off" and let the engine run the fuel out of the carburetor bowl until it sputters and dies. Third (the meat): 1. Turn the fuel flow on by turning the fuel-petcock to ON or RES (if you are low on fuel). 2. Put the choke on full (Full-Up) 3. Pull in the compression release lever while turning the engine over with the kick-start pedal SLOWLY, I use 20 (yes TWENTY) slow, comfortable, easy cranks with the compression pulled in. I don't have a good theory of why this is necessary, it has something to do with both the time it takes to fill the carburetor bowl AND with "charging up" the electrical system. Just waiting doesn't do it. Kicking quickly just gets you tired and doesn't seem to take enough time. 4. Release the compression release lever, and turn the engine over until it gets to the compression stroke and gives you that hard-resistance to your easy cranking. 5. You should not have turned the throttle at all, although "pumping it" a couple of times doesn't seem to help or hurt, but it should be all the way closed when you kick it. 6. Now KICK with all you got. I've expanded over the years to 280 lbs, so I just rise up and drop on it. You feather weights will have to lay into it. 7. Nine times out of ten, it just goes "woof" on the first kick. This is probably just poor mix in the chamber due to all of the cranking. 8. Now cycle it around to compression stroke again. Now KICK with all you got again. I usually get start on this kick. You may need to kick again, but if it didn't start on the third, think through what you did. Is the choke full on? did you really turn on the fuel? Check your procedure and try again. Once it fires up, nurse it a little bit until you can get to half choke, then full choke. Fourth. If you are through riding for the session and going to rest for a couple of hours (long enough for the engine to cool down), use the "fuel run-out" method for shutting down. I won't guarantee that this will start your XR400. You may have any number of other things going on, and a trip to the Honda service center may be in order, but following these rules gives me confidence that the engine will start without great effort where ever I may be. One thing is for sure, this is not a "quick-get away" machine. On the other hand, the low RPM torque on this bike has got my fat-butt out of trouble so many times I have lost track, sudden, soft sand, loose dirt on a steep hill, deep water, etc. every time I'm surprised, I keep my feet up and use the throttle and transmission to put me in the power band, and "oomph", I'm up and out of it. I hope this helps you with your XR400. After 15 years and thousands of hours in mountain and desert riding my XR400 I think it is still one of the greatest off road bikes ever made. AND my 2003 is a Green Sticker bike in California so I can ride it year round!
  15. cmbthumper

    XR400 Jetting Recommendations

    Good Evening. Yup another Carb Question thread. Hopefully if free time allows this weekend, I will be pulling the carb to get a baseline on what is in there from the PO as he was of age and couldn’t remember. I did and am still doing research on jetting to get comfortable with the process to not blow things up. I have YT videos posted in my cmbthumper XR400 thread on my first shakedown run after purchase. No real cold or warm starting issues, hesitation at any throttle input or popping on Decel. Couldn’t pull the plug to check color as the PO did not have one. I ordered one and it should be here this week. Don’t have experience on the XR400 or much air cooled motors but my only concern was the heat generated. Temp gun after first 10mi run was 210-220deg +/- 5deg on the lower cases and 245-260deg +/- 5deg on any part of the head. This has been asked a million times and answered in a million different ways. Would appreciate any baseline starting points on jetting. From my research there is always the "What Bike, What Mods have you Done" questions from the experienced people trying to help. I am slowly learning about my bike, terminology, what certains are, what and why they do the things they do. So, i gathered as much info as i could to help you help me. 00 Honda XR400R CA Model: E-Start (Not rubbing it in but might be a factor) Stock Keihin 36mm Carb (Believe it is the PDK1E. Not sure yet how to tell) Stock Exhaust with Gordons Mod #1 - 3 Holes in Muffler Baffle ** Stock Header with Gordons Mod #2 - Header Inlet Ground to 18mm Gordons Mod #3 - Snorkel Removed & Uni Air Filter plus Cage Float Level to 14.5mm-19mm Stock Needle 3rd Groove from Top (Believe it is the 06012-KCY-771. Not sure how to tell yet) XR’s Only Choke Plate 14/48 Gearing Me?? I am a sit-down type of rider that likes to explore, stop and look at things, take in the views for pics and just plop around. I ride like I have no real purpose or destination. I will say that on a very rare occasion when the terrain opens I like to pretend I am racing for overall time. Until I gain some more jetting knowledge, I would rather the jetting be on the safe rich side and have no problem sacrificing some performance and/or response initially. Ride from my home Ramona, CA 1625ft ASL to 6200ft ASL – 65-95Deg AT – Humidity 0-10% 85% of my riding will be from my house (See below for remaining 15%) These are the Jetting recommendations I could find that seemed reasonable but not sure which to start with. 1. Recommended 700 to 3200ft ASL - 160main - #60pilot - Needle Clip in 3rd Position-Recommended Pilot A/F Screw 2.5+/-3/4turn Turns Out 2. Recommended 3000 to 7500ft ASL - 160main - #62pilot - Needle Clip in 3rd Position-Recommended Pilot A/F Screw 2.5+/-3/4turn Turns Out 3. Recommended 3600 to 7000ft ASL - 150main - #55pilot - Needle Clip in 3rd Position-Recommended Pilot A/F Screw 2.5+/-3/4turn Turns Out 4. Recommended 4500 to 11000ft ASL - 155main - #52pilot - Needle Clip in 2nd Position-Recommended Pilot A/F Screw 2.5+/-3/4turn Turns Out 5. Recommended 5000 to 12000ft ASL - 155main - #58pilot - Needle Clip in 2nd Position-Recommended Pilot A/F Screw 2.5+/-3/4turn Turns Out ____________________________________________________________________________ For the remaining 15% of my riding, I will visit these places maybe 3 or 4 times a year for vacation ** Would like and appreciate any general recommendations to Jet for Big Bear, CA – 6750ft ASL to 8500ft ASL – 65-95Deg AT – Humidity less than 15% ** Would like and appreciate any general recommendations to Jet for Mammoth Lakes, CA – 7880ft ASL to 10000ft ASL – 65-85Deg AT – Humidity less than 15% I appreciate any and all help, Mike
  16. Gday, I have recently purchased myself a 1998 XR400R for cheap - I knew it needed a top end rebuild, but I would like to know exactly what is worn bad enough to replace. The bike looks to be have been maintained pretty well 2 owners ago, but the last owner didn't do much. He replaced the timing chain guide that sits against the tensioner, and thats about it. The bike is very rattley, and blows huge plumes of white smoke, but starts up easy, runs and accelerates fine. Had bugger all oil in it, plenty of silver metal in the oil filter. What I have found in pulling the piston out. (photos to match) 1. Where the cam sits in the head - there is friction wear. The bike has Hotcam stickers on it, but the auto decomp spring and pin was in place still, so i am thinking its a stock cam. Is this normal for a 20yr old bike? 2. Heaps of carbon on valves, LHS exhaust pipe leaks oily residue onto head. No crush washers used for exhaust for either side. 3. Cylinder has wear marks, but not too deep - only just feel them with finger. Also has decent gouging where timing chain has been rubbing in gallery. The timing chain guide on the exhaust side was very worn out. 4. Piston has scrapes on 2 opposing sides, oil rings look very worn to me? almost flush with piston. So, its not great... I am wondering if the Timing Chain has been slack for ages (hence last owner replacing the Timing Chain Guide) and the damage was done both from that, and possible oil starvation to head? SO WHAT DO THE EXPERTS RECKON? Should I try a Bore and Hone with a larger piston kit, plus cam chain, valve seals, and replace Timing Chain guides? On a side note - this Forum so the most helpful i have ever used - thanks to all who make it so. CHEERS FOR THE HELP
  17. I just picked up a 2003 XR 400 that still has the stock tires and has been used very little. I am pretty disappointed in the power because I used to have a XR 350 that had 21 HP stock plus another 5 or so with K@N and Supertrapp. The 350 would easily pull the front tire off of the ground in first and second gear. This 400 with 34 HP stock and has the same wheel base will not pull the front tire off of the ground even on pavement. Any ideas of why this might be? I am doing some mods to help improve performance. I am getting the XRs only Pumper 36 carb for it and a UNI filter as well as a supertrapp IDS2 quiet series. I will be riding at 2200 feet elevation and up in the far north where it gets warm but not super hot. What are your suggestions for jetting the new carb? Thank you!