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Can I get away with a hone out and replacing the rings? I have a other valve cover with freshly lapped and replaced exhaust valves 96 xr600r

Bought a 95 xr 600r a while back and notice that there is no filter cover box. But It has a no toil Is this normal or is the dang thing missing Thanks

Hell all. New member here. Figured after a few years of navigating the TT forums i would make an account, for input on my current situation. I just got a 98 XR600R from my father who last rode it maybe 6 years ago. About 3 years ago i was told i could have the bike if i got it running. I took the bike and cleaned the carb, tried kicking it over and nothing. After a good carb cleaning, got it to run but not very well. Found an issue with the auto decompression system. I removed the asm from the cam and had the hole filled. After that it ran better but still not good. I then took it to the shop i work at and tore it down to the piston. Not realizing before, choke plate broke off and found itseay inside the cylinder and did some head damage. After finding this i boxed it up and havent touched it until recently. Got the bike out, inspected everything and found only damage to the head, light marking. Cleaned it up and slapped everything back together and cannot get the bike to run at all, and when it does, its gutless. Checked timing several times, cam is good. Its off a half tooth either direction. I do have the cam in the right orientation, not 180 out. When it does run its noisy, like super loose valves. Couldnt ever figure out the cause. I decided to out money into this bike and got the following, new cam chain, new coil and plug, new hot cam stage one, new hot shot cdi box, new ricky stator 200w stator, kibble white titanium spring kit, 100mm 10.5 to 1 JE piston and XRs only new carb kit, the non pumper. I decided to overhaul the bike to get it running, then as winter comes tear it all apart and clean up the frame and other parts. Im looking for any input for people who built there bikes with performance parts as these and there experiences in doing so. And just looking for general guidance along the way, helping restore and build a classic. Pictures if interest.

I'm having trouble finding wiring diagrams for my 1990 xr600r. The diagrams that I have found don't seem to be for my exact year model since there are slight differences. The one I have pictured is the closest one I can find but the only difference is my bike has a 3 wire stator and the diagram is showing a 2 wire stator. In addition to the red/black wire and blue wire, my stator has a white wire and I have no idea where it is supposed to go. Since owning the bike the wiring has always been a bit of a rats nest so I'm trying to start over from square 1 to sort out my issues. I've removed the entire lighting harness and I'm only focusing on the ignition system just to simplify things for now. I was thinking the extra white wire may be a ground but I don't want to speculate and burn something up. I'm also wondering if my stator is an aftermarket since it has the 3 wires instead of 2, I have the wires picture below, maybe someone out there will be able to tell I measured the voltage off each lead while bike idled and this is what I got out of each various combination. White to frame ground - 5v AC Blue to frame ground -10v AC White to blue - 18v AC While touching the white wire directly to frame and measuring voltage from the Blue I got 20v Ac and there was no arcing or sparks while I struck the white against frame ground I read resistance on the red/black to ground and it was 600ohms (I think spec is about 230ish-400. I also have weak spark so I'm thinking the stator is going bad, unless the white wire has something to do with it being weak. The only way I can get the bike to start is to smash the spark gap really really small, and the bike runs good like that until above 3/4 throttle and then it sputters and backfires I'm assuming due to the spark being too small to ignite the mixture. Just cleaned the carb so that shouldn't be the sputtering issue. And I cannot start the bike with the plug gap in spec. It's also visually weak when kicking the bike with the plug out, compared to my ktm525 spark, it's hardly much spark at all.

Hello, I’m hoping the group can help me diagnose an issue with a newly purchased 1988 xr600r. Here’s the short background information. When I bought the bike, it was little hard to start, but once started, would run pretty good for a couple of miles. At that point, the engine would stumble and die. I would kick the bike back to life, but it would die again within a couple of minutes. I cleaned the carb, no improvement. Then I ultrasonically cleaned the carb and used a rebuild kit to replace the needle, jets, orings, and gaskets - still no improvement. Next, I replaced the CDI with Rick’s Motorsports hotshot CDI. This made a big improvement. The bike will usually fire right up with the first kick from cold. It seems to like to start best with the choke in middle position, but it’ll start with choke off as well. With the new CDI, I can ride it all day and it won’t die like it used to! However, now the problem is, the bike kind of stutters when holding the throttle steady anywhere between 40% to 80% throttle. Every couple of seconds it will feel like it hiccups and I get jerked towards the front of the seat. It happens in all gears, but I notice it the most in 5th gear holding a steady cruising speed of around 50mph. The bike has a stock Keihin carb with stock jetting (60/165/needle clip in middle position) and the fuel screw is about 1.75 turns out. I checked for air leaks on the carb and boots with wd40 and an unlit propane torch, but didn’t hear a change in idle when doing so. Most of my riding is between 1000’-3000’ elevation in SoCal. It has a supertrapp exhaust and the snorkel has been removed. It doesn’t backfire or have noticeable popping on deceleration. It has a new spark plug (dpr9eix-9 iridium). I’m using an uni air filter that is clean and oiled properly and I’ve also ran a K&N (didn’t notice a difference). If I run it on the street with the left side plastic removed (air filter still on), it seems to stutter less. At operating temp, I can put the choke in middle position and it still idles fine, but if I put the choke in the full on position, it dies immediately. I’m using fresh 91 octane gas and the inside of the tank looks really clean, but I haven’t pulled off the petcock yet to check for crud on the screen. The tank vent seems to be fine. I have valves adjusted per the manual, although I’m not 100% sure that I got the right exhaust valve perfect because I’m not sure if I need to do something special to account for the autodecomp mechanism. The chain is in good shape and chain sag is right (don’t think it’s binding). I don’t have a multimeter and have limited experience with electrical problems, so I haven’t done any electrical checks other than cleaning the ignition coil leads and making sure the connection is tight. The bike is old, but looks pretty pristine. I bought it from a guy that had to stop riding because he was too old. I think it sat in his garage and was only ridden a couple of times a year (at about 6800’ elevation). He said it always ran great for him. The bike pulls hard, sounds good, and other than the stuttering described above, my only other complaint is top speed. I haven’t been over 55mph on it, because it sounds like it’s working too hard with high rpm’s at that speed. I assume that this isn’t related to the stuttering issue and can be helped by changing the countershaft and sprocket. What should I do? THANK YOU! Jeff

Shiny!

Im brand new to thumper talk and thought I would join in to share my plan of attack on my own oil cooler for my 2012 XR650L. The position of the above coolers on the old school Dakar XL600 makes the most sense as far as air flow and protection goes. I debated buying the Sutton cooler but the mounting location for that kit just doesn't make sense in my mind. My goal for adding a cooler is to keep my synthetic oil at the optimum 200F* operation temperature. Bike has Daves mod, jet kit, full FMF header and muffler. Average oil temps are 220*F, 250*F, and 300*F on a summer day in town. I will update this topic as I progress through my build. I will also be making a detailed youtube video on installation.

I got my XR600r dirt bike giving me a carb issue that I just can not get worked out. It starts first kick and idles well, throttle cracks off nice and crisp when you whack it, but if you ease into the throttle to just above idle it's a spit and sputter pile of shit! Lol. I can turn the idle speed adjustment up to a fast idle and it starts spitting and studdering just the same. Done a lot of research and it points to the pilot circuit. I put a rebuild kit in it and have taken it apart and cleaned it seriously 12 times now. I'm at the point of looking for a different carb body to try. They're about $100 though. A new keihn carb is $250 on eBay. Any thoughts? That pilot adjust screw doesn't seem to adjust anything until it's fully seated or falling out. It has ran ok in that idle to 1/4 throttle circuit before but it don't now. The last 6 removal/cleanings haven't made any changes, previous ones did improve the throttle snap when you whack it. The main needle clip is on the middle groove. I checked for air leak with some starting fluid when it was idling and seen no change to the way it ran, indicating no leaks. Bike has stock jet sizes, foam filter, stock exhaust. 1,830' elevation here in South Dakota. I'm baffled..

Looking for an old exhaust/ (Nos) for the xl600r. I like the old cobra exhausts like this one on ebay.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-XL-600-R-Silencer-Muffler-pipe-off-a-1983-XL-600R-/393585229045?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Hey all, I thought I would run something past you (anyone) about my plans on improving the amount of electrical juice I can squeeze out of my 97 Xr 600 R. This is my first post here, so apologies. I hope I can be half useful to someone else as this forum has been for me. Cheers. So, from what I can tell this 97 Honda is pretty much stock as it sits. I have a new 200 w dual output stator and reg/rec. The plan: 100 w wired to stock 3 wire harness, AC reg, ignition and running lights (maybe 55w bulb upfront to soak up any extra AC juice). Running lights to be always on with engine. They will not have any switches. The other 100 w will got to the DC system. Reg/Rec to battery and then switches, headlights (with hiLo) horn, indicators e.t.c. Grounded to the negative terminal on the battery. An almost separate system apart from its connection to the reg/rec. I'd be great if anyone had any advice, questions/comments. I have suss'ed out as much I can and at this seems to suit what I am looking for. (Providing it's all square and I am not missing something) AC over flow of power is delt with via the stock frame grounded system. What happens to extra DC power? Back through the reg/rec? Cheers, Jesse

I'm rebuilding my 1987 xr600r. Under the Right Side Cover, downtown at the bottom, below the Kickstarter Spindle, I found this little cap. It's all chewed up. I can't find it in the parts diagram, or in my Haynes Manual. It sorta looks like it fits loosely on this Side Cover pin [fig.s 1 & 2] -and the pin has wear marks (I'm assuming from the kicker gear.) Anybody know what this is? Is it critical? I don't want it getting loose again and floating around in there. I'll post photos of the rest build eventually, but it's taking me longer than I was initially hoping, so bear with me 😅.