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Found 530 results

  1. Hi all, I am needing some help with my 2003 yz250, i have posted a thread up a couple weeks ago about my bike bogging and having no power. I've listened to everyone's opinions on what is going on and have tried to fix it. Now, i'm needing some help with the cylinder and head, jets, and the power valve. 1. I am going to replace the reeds with power reeds, Will i have to rejet or anything? or can i just throw them in and ride? I'm doing a fresh top end so want the bike to be running good when i first start it. 2. I bought new jets cause the old ones were blocked. The new ones are the same size as the old ones, i can just throw them in and the bike will run the same as if the old ones were still in? or will i need to mess around with something? 3. Is the cylinder head in good shape or bad? Is the cylinder in bad shape? If so, what is the cheapest way for now and for future rebuilds to fix it? What type of cylinder is it? Sleeved?, nikasil? 4. The power valve looks like it has alot of oil/carbon in there, how do i clean it and what do i clean it with? As seen in video, when i pull the power valve to me it stays like that, i thought it is supposed to go back in?
  2. Hello Folks, I ride a YZ250 but swapped out a complete (brand new: caliper, line, master cylinder) CRF450R front brake and want to see if all is well. I bled the system and definitely got all the air out. Brake is awesome and works perfectly (though I have only tried it around my office for a very short time so far). So what is my question? Lever feels "softer" than my old YZ. It is as if I can feel the brake line expanding as I pull the lever. As I said, the braking action is fantastic, with excellent modulation. I have absolutely no complaints regarding function. Just expected a little tighter feel when lever pulled back. - Could it be that since this is literally brand new the hose has to "break in" and expand to some new normal size? Many thanks, LSHD (Mick)
  3. Hello, I've got a 99 YZ250 that I'm trying to dial in. After a bout of exceptionally bad luck it has all new bearings, rebuilt crank, new rod, cylinder re-chromed by USChrome, and a new wiseco piston. Timing is set 3* retarded from stock, stock head/squish. Factory pipe w/ dents and a pro circuit silencer/spark arrestor thatis newly repacked. The bike runs like total garbage. It is so pig rich its unreadable. The first 1/4 throttle doesn't do anything but load it up so bad that it take a few runs on the pipe to get it to clean up and go, IF it doesn't foul the plug. It would barely run on the stock jetting. Currently I'm using the factory N3VF needle on the top clip, a 40 pilot, and a 170 main, stock #7 slide. The power jet is the stock 80. This got the bike to *kinda* run but its still very rich at just off idle. This carb has the odd choke/idle speed knob. The first question would be how do I adjust the choke/idle speed plunger. I'm perplexed as to what that does with regard to jetting. It seems to be that setting the idle by the enrichener would be counter productive. That is the only idle adjustment on this carb. There is no slide stop like on all other cabs that I've worked on. Is it appropriate so set the idle speed by removing all cable free play??? That sounds like a very bad idea...... The next big question is what is the best choice for a needle? I've got a hunch that the stock N3VF needle will not ever run correctly. I've read some about using a Suzuki needle. Whats the word on that and which one? I live at 6500 ft and ride from there and above. I don't race motocross. At some point I'd be interested in racing an enduro and a hare scramble or two. Can anybody help with some jetting recommendation to get this thing running better?? Or am a better off with a carb swap or a lectron carb??
  4. This weekend was a good weekend. I didn't have to use my AK. I got to ride my YZ, in hero dirt on Saturday and godlike dirt on Sunday.
  5. Hey guys I have a 2020 YZ250 with full pro circuit system on it other than that all standard,I've just purchased v force 3 reed valves for and am wondering will I need to tune it after installation or just bolt on and go? Any help much appreciated cheers
  6. Need to replace the clutch in my 2010 YZ250 mainly for off road use. Motosport is running a sale on the Wiseco Performance Clutch Kit for 407.00. Comes with Basket plates and springs. Or pay the extra 100 for the Hinson or just use stock plates/springs GYTR Basket (about the same price as the Hinson).
  7. Pulled my top end today since my piston was timmed out, and found something interesting on the cylinder wall around the exhaust port. It looks to me like the nikasil is wearing through. I’m thinking it’s gotta be replated or sleeved but really hoping it doesn’t. Any opinions would be appreciated. 2013 YZ250, 80hrs
  8. Just put a new throttle cable on. The spring in the carb is binding. It is not smooth either when you pull it. How do I fix this?
  9. Hey guys, im in the process of giving my bike some tlc, i stripped the frame to get it pc and gave everything else a good scrub down and polish...Recently i started assembling the bike and im very anal when it comes to torque specs, so i have my manual on deck and following the assembly instructions.... i started with the engine, i torqued the engine mounts of the head to spec when i got to the bolt that goes to the head it stripped at around 40ft lbs with my beam wrench, i thought maybe it was age so i order a new one, i left the bike for a couple of days went back and started to torque the lower bolts and again at around 40 ft lbs i got this feeling that the bolt was about to strip so i backed down, like WTF is going on!!...i decided to leave the engine alone, i decided to torque the triple pinch bolts and guess what i stripped the top one at 13ft pounds ( it suppose to be 17), i got frustrated and decided to work on the rear, ans guess what the swing arm bolt which is supposed to be 65ft would not tighthen pass 50 it would just start to slowly rotate so i decided to stop.......WTF is going on, do i need a priest a new beam torque wrench or a new bike....HEEEELP
  10. Hi! I've got my cylinder on my work bench and having some tinkering about drill boyesen ports. Eric Gorr: "BOYESEN PORTS On the 1985 to 1990 models, there is only one port linking the intake to the transfer ports. On These models, drill an additional hole (l/2-in. diameter) on the opposite side of the existing hole and install Boyesen reeds. The midrange power will be greatly improved." What do you think? Is it worth drilling? Anyone have pictures of the ports? I have a spare 1989 cylinder to try porting on. Then a 1990 that I will put on the bike Sincerely
  11. I want to buy a clutch cover for my 2018 YAMAHA YZ 250X. What do buddies suggest to me? Which is the most resistant and beauty? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Boyesen-Clutch-Right-Side-Crankcase-Crank-Case-Cover-Yamaha-YZ250-YZ-250-X-99-18/192766151573?fits=Model%3AYZ250&epid=171142106&hash=item2ce1c20b95:g:gIQAAOSwlx9cHRIg http://www.boyesen.com/works-billet-factory-racing-clutch-covers-4.html https://hinsonracing.com/product/billetproof-clutch-cover-yamaha-yz250x-2016/ https://www.motosport.com/gytr-billet-clutch-cover?variant[GYT0017]=GYT0017-X001-Y007 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tusk-Billet-Aluminum-Clutch-Cover-Black-YAMAHA-YZ250-YZ250X-2001-2019-yz-250-/173746044311 Other suggestions? Thanks.
  12. Hey guys. Ive been working on some carbon fiber bits for a build I've been helping with, and thought id post up here and share the process. All parts were derived from oem factory parts. I modified them slightly and had a friend draw them up in cad for me (first two pics are a case saver and chain guide guard for my KX). We printed some prototypes on the 3D printer and was able to test fit them. Ended up cutting everything from 4mm thick, 2x2 twill plate. Turned out pretty awesome I think!
  13. Does dowel pin #23 go here? Looks like it does on the fische but I have nothing there and it’s not laying down inside the cover anywhere. Pulled the cover to fix a leaking rubber seal and noticed it missing. Does the pin just push in?
  14. I seem to be getting conflicting information on a few forums with regards to a leak down test. Here’s my issue: Rebuilt a 99 yz250, top end, new jug, new crank, bearings and new seals. Performed a leak down test and the air immediately came out of the crank case/transmission vent that runs under your carb through the leakage. When I say immediate, it’s instantly blowing out. I replaced everything with new and don’t understand if this is correct or not. Looking for clarity. Apologies if this is a repeat post, but can’t find solid information.
  15. hello all. im going back to my youth and rebuilding my yz250 1987. im finding very little info on the web about these machines. i have my crank shaft being pressed back together with new rod and bearings but i cannot find a specification for assembly. im looking for a spec i asume from the manual. cant get a manual here in uk easily. anyone know the width of the webs once assembled or the permited play on the rod ? ive a few pics of porting and case matching but im sure you've seen it all before. thanks in advance
  16. 230 hours on this EG295 cylinder. Thoughts on the wear....is it time to re-plate?
  17. I got the Tusk finger-adjustable idle screw and air screw for my YZ250. While trying to remove the air screw, this happened. So now I have a non-functional air screw I can't replace.
  18. Gents, I need some serious help. Picked up a 99 yz250. Rebuilt everything. Split the case, replaced all seals and bearing, new crank, and installed a new Eddie Sanders 325 kit. Problem starts when I fill it with coolant. Once pressurized, it streams out of the exhaust port. i performed a leak down test, all good. Tested the cooling systems via air, remained constant pressure. Once I put coolant it, it leaks into the cylinder. Looking through the exhaust when pressurized, looks like the coolant is pushing up from the bottom end, into the power valve. Stuck a camera in, doesn’t look like it’s coming from above via the head. No leaking down the cylinder wall. I am beyond frustrated and looking to see if anyone has run into this issue. Only option I see left is break it down, split the case and reassemble. Could use a win soon with this thing. Looks for any advice.
  19. hey guys, last year i bought an 01 yz250 but as i learned more about the changes and looks over the years i have discovered that it has 02+ tank, plastics and subframe. after more research and looking around i discovered you need to make modifications for that stuff to fit, but on my bike there is none, all tank brackets are stock and subframe too and everything bolts up as an 2002. so i recently ordered swingarm bearings for an 01 but the swingarm bolt did not fit into the new bearings so i though the PO may have put other year parts into it, so i ordered an 01 specific swingarm bolt and everything bolted up but the bolt was sloppy through the frame holes, but it all bolted up. do you guys think it may be a 2002 that was manufactured in 2001 making me think its an 01? the frame tag says it is an 01 so im really confused.
  20. I’ve spent the past 2 years turning my 01 Yz250 into a excellent single track bike. The front brake has always been marginal at best. It is an 09 caliper (sss conversion) and a braided brake line with the 01 master. I’ve been looking for a Honda master but haven’t found one suitable . Today I found an old brembo master/line and caliper I had in the shop from an 01 Husaberg. I bolted on the master and gave it a quick bleed ...not a reverse bleed as the plunger in my syringe broke and I was on my way to ride. The front brakes are now fantastic. As good as a new bike. Easy bolt on upgrade. Will reverse bleed them this week and see if they get any better.
  21. Hi I have read a couple of forums about headpipes getting slightly bent and not sealing anymore to the engine. I took a few pictures and not sure if you will be able to tell but I think just that tiny gap must be how it's leaking? My question is how do you bend it back so it will seal or should I just try that high heat copper rtv that I have read about ? I have tried multiple o rings and spring sets . This is a newly rebuilt engine with about an hour on it . I'm tired of it leaking.
  22. Had everything put on and setup, including grips but then as I was looking around I discovered that my bars weren't sitting flush. I've had the adapters for quite some time from a previous bike, but I'm fairly confident that the bolts are the original hardware for the Universal mounts. The bolts seem to be stopping the bars from going all the way down, I'd love to get them working before having to strip the bars and put on an old set of standard Renthals. Especially since I have some nice new grips on the current setup. Was hoping to ride this weekend, but not so sure I should if they aren't sitting flush. Has anyone seen this or have any suggestions?
  23. I have a yz250 2001 with a 13oz flywheel weight and I think I would like to try something smaller. Please let me know if you are willing to sell yours or know somebody willing to sell theirs.
  24. The Master link clip on my YZ250 keeps coming off. I have a primary drive chain. I did squeeze master link with vise grips so it fits in the grove well. I just don't think the clip is tight enough. Any way to keep it from falling off?
  25. I’ve searched the forums and found a few discussions with mostly dead ends. Does anyone know whether or not a 2002 YZ250 rad will fit a 2001? I don’t mind having to slightly bend to fit, as the current stock pretzels are just that - bent. Simple question right, but I can’t seem to find anything definitive. Thanks for any insight.
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