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  1. Hello all. I know this topic has been beaten to death and ive found some good info on it. I bought this bike for my kid a month ago and since we have started riding, we are having hot start issues. (Valves are in spec, new plug, fuel tank breather unobstructed)5 out of 6 starts when hot are fine... but that 1 is a bitch. 10 mins of kicking, tip bike drain carb etc. I took the carb out and cleaned the hell out of it (a couple times) and still had the same issue. Last night i put a 45 pilot jet in it (its 10c/ 50F temp and riding at 2000ft) and we took it out today. It was better for hot starts, it was comparatively easy to start compared to the 42 pilot when hot, however i could turn the fuel screw all the way in and it wouldnt kill the bike. Any suggestions on next move... or just call it good albeit not technically correct size pilot
  2. Hi guys new to this forum and was wondering if anyone could shed some light on an issue I'm having. So basically bought a 19yz250f second hand off a local off road shop, the bike is fantastic real fun to ride and dont want to get rid of it however the past while when i go to start the bike (e start) sometimes it will crank over for ages and will not start for love or money.. last time i had to bump start it just to get a run on it but even at that it took a couple of runs to bump... I brought it back to the shop and they checked the valve clearances and the plug even replaced the plug etc.. was fine for a while after that but yesterday the bike was towed on a bike trailer to the track once removed off the trailer the same thing happened cranked and cranked but no fire , removed the air filter as i know freshly oiled filters are hard to start the bike but bare in mind it started fine after i replaced the filter in the garage which is done after every ride... ended up two twists of the throttle then tried again and it fired up really annoying to say the least Still the stock lithium battery in the bike thats put on a charge the night before i go out which brings the battery up to 100% , i also only get out once every couple of weeks any help would be much appreciated
  3. Hi everybody I have a yz250f 2020 on which i did 30 hours, 2 days ago i gave it to a friend to ride it and the first thing he said was that the handlebar is too much to the rear, i didn;t touch the handlebar ever since i got the bike, so its in the hole to the rear but pointed forward, position 2 i think you call it. His comment got me thinking and I started to think that he is right and maybe that's why i stay too much on the back of the bike while riding, altough im also a hard enduro rider and that could also be the issue. I am 175cm tall, 5 feet 9 inches. Now i want to ask you what do you prefer, and your opinion? Handlebar is the stock one In the photos you can see it mounted on the next hole, and next position towards forward. Thanks i only now realised that the 2nd hole also raises up the bars, so its definetly a no, i got it back in the 1st hole and rotated the bars a little to the front.
  4. Guys i have done 3 full rebuilds a ktm 125 2t, drz400e, wr250f, now on all 3 bikes my shift forks have slid on the shafts but im now doing a yz250f and the shift forks are stuck on the shafts is this right?
  5. Would like to solicit advice...piston has about 28 hrs of normal trail riding on it, not hard racing but still getting on it. No bike issues but removed the head to get valve seats cut, guides replaced, and new valves, all due to the fact that valve clearances keep getting tight so it's time for this service. No plan to replace the piston at this time, but the spot just next to center, biased toward middle intake valve, seems suspect. Could this be a jetting issue? Note that the middle intake valve is the worst for tightening, which is common from what I've read, so suspect this may play a role in this darker spot. Preciate yall's inputs.
  6. 2006 YZ250F. I went to change the oil filter and the upper right bolt leaked coolant. It does not appear to be in the oil. The bolt is long and appears to hold the outer case to the inner case. It does not leak with the bolt out and no appearance of leaking with the bolt in and tightened. Coolant level is good. I searched but every thing came up water in oil. Anyone seen this? Thoughts?
  7. Hi everyone, I’m in need of a mid body for a 2007 yz 250f carburetor. I can’t find these things anywhere and was just wondering if someone had one lying around or if someone can point me in the right direction of one. I really don’t want to buy a whole new carburetor just because of this one bad piece, thanks.
  8. 2017 yz250f. Looking at getting the Baja design squadron sport headlamp They say that’s all I’m able to get with the power bike has available. Light pulls 26watt. I heard a fx stator is capable of 100w or so. Am I able to buy a fx stator so I can run the next model up for more light. ? Is this a direct replacement has anyone does this?
  9. I have a 2016 yamaha yz250f and I went to ride and I checked my oil, it was good so I rode about 2 miles and looked at the glass again and you couldnt see oil in it because all of the oil in the system leaked out and when I started it I guess it pulled all the oil left in the case to fill up the system and left nothing for the bottom end. After seeing this I looked at the oil screen and there where about 5-10 pretty substantial sized brass/bronze/copper colored shavings in it and I have no clue where they came from. My guess is crank bearings or bushings in the transmission. If anyone could kinda pinpoint where they most likely came from that would be awesome.(I've been running it after only doing a oil change for a while and I'm having no problems with it from what I can tell)
  10. I got a 2019 yz250f that won't start. When I first pulled it out the garage it started right up, ran for about 20 seconds then died out. Now it won't start at all. Im very new and inexperienced with 4 strokes. Ill be honest and get that out of the way right away lol. I killed the battery trying to get it to start so now I have the battery off the bike and on a charger. Im also thinking about pulling the spark plug and checking to see if its fouled? Aside from that, does anyone have any other info they can give me? I don't want to take the bike to a dealer. Is there a "choke" on this bike? Any info is greatly appreciated as I am very aggravated. PS the bike has 7 hours on it. Thanks!
  11. Hi all new here I have been lurking this site so I mine as well make a account. I recently got a 06 yz 250f and the guy complained it kept locking up. So I tore it down and discovered the piston is broken to hell. The valves appearance wise look ok , crank looks ok but as i know I'll have to check them out accurately. This will be my first hands on rebuild I'm hoping to get by with a new piston. My question and other questions to come , but for now why would a piston tear apart like that? The connecting rod has no up or down play slight side to side barely any. The piston says it's a wiseco 12:5:1 the connecting rod says hot rods. I'm assuming the previous guy had work done. I have some pictures as well. Is 12:5:1 stock ? I'm going to have to figure out getting the chunks of piston out the bottom, looks like I caught it before it tore everything up. Would a new cam chain and piston get me by. I'm learning as I go. Thanks
  12. Hi tt, currently rebuilding my 05’ yz250f and i was wondering if the ProX cast pistons are any good? I ordered one thinking it was going to be forged but it came in and it looks cast so im wondering if its worth exchanging it for a forged piston or if i should just run it since i have it thanks!
  13. okay, so I recently rebuilt the top end of my 2007 yz250f as it went out on a ride. Anyways during the winter it was taken out of the garage and and started for about 2 minutes before it "seized" At least that's what I thought until I took it apart. The kick starter was stuck and wouldn't move and after I took the top end off I saw that the crank was stuck and I was able to get it moving again. So the cylinder was still in good condition and has no big scratches, and now the crank is moving freely as it wasn't before. Is this a simple top end job and I must've not put it back together correctly or is it something deeper involved? Thank you, any input would be appreciated.
  14. Anyone know the size of the fuel line on a yzf250 2013,the hose from tank to carb,thanks.
  15. Hi all, This is the first dirt bike i've worked on, and i'm super chuffed that i've managed to rebuild the engine with a 290cc big bore kit, split the bottom end and flushed out pieces of old broken cylinder wall plating (previous owner obviously blew the engine without telling me), bare metal restored/painted the frame and have taken every single part apart to clean and rebuild. It looks nuts now (subject to new plastics after I've crashed the old ones some more). Anyway, it took me a while to actually start the bike, slowly increasing the idle screw until the bike could be bump started almost every time. This was with the original spec jets, being 178 Main, 42 Pilot, 4th clip on the needle (from memory). But, it ran awfully. Turning the fuel screw all the way in did nothing (except for the final 1/4 turn which made it idle alot more roughly before cutting out). Therefore, I used the jetting guide(s) on TT to work out that it was probably running too rich at idle, so jumped down to a 40 pilot, then a 38, and now a 35 pilot. AFter running for about 5 minutes each time (warming the engine) it idles nicely, however I can still turn the fuel screw all the way in with no change in RPM, until the final 1/4 (again) when it starts to stumble and rough idle. turning it back out to 1/4 to 1/2 turn open fixes the idle. I could live with that - but I am a bit of a perfectionist and want to find out why the fuel screw apparently has no bearing on RPM's at all (I feel it should be at least within 1 - 2 turns out at optimum). Also, it bogs a LOT if I WOT from idle, so much that it will just cut out. Progressive acceleration is better and shows a nice torquey bit of power (so much so that I wheelied with no clutch dumping the first time. Also, it hangs at approx 2-4,000 RPM's (hard to say as i don't have a tacho). i.e. if I accelerate then close the throttle, it will hang at 2-4k RPM's until I physically 'brake' the engine to idle. If I just let it return to idle on it's own, it takes about 10-15 seconds and then suddenly drops to idle (then idle's nicely). Finally, I don't need choke on at all when I bump start, starts fine without. When at idle if I pull the choke out, it stalls. When at idle if i pull the hotstart lever, it momentarily increases in RPM's then decreases to a rough idle and almost stalls. To clarify, i know have: - the o'ring mod in accelerater pump - 35 pilot jet, 170 main jet, needle on 3rd clip from top - 290cc big bore cylinder/piston - valves have been reseated and have absolutely no leakage, valve timings were set when I rebuilt, to bang on middle of tolerances (however i've not checked them again since running the bike for approx 45 minutes total). Everything else is standard. Do any of your carb specialists and tinkerers have any idea why my fuel jet has no effect on the RPM's except the final 1/4 turn (and has done regardless of the size of pilot jet)? And do you have any tips for how to get the bogging issues solved when WOT from Idle, and also from i guess 2,000 - 3,000 RPM when snapping to WOT, as well as the hanging idle? Much , much, much, much. much thanks in advance!!!
  16. I bought a 2018 YZ250FX last year and have put an awesome 22 hours on it. Beginning to ride multiple time’s a week now that the weather is nice. Anyways, I’ve noticed in neutral with clutch lever released there is a slightly whirling or grinding noise. Almost sounds like a noise bearing, but I’m doubtful due to the age and hours on it. I believe the noise is there anytime the clutch is engaged, but harder to tell in gear. quick search and I found nothing. Anyone experienced that before? Just regular clutch noise? thanks.
  17. Hi I have a 2008 yz250f and was wondering will an 09 engine fit ? any help would or knowledge would be appreciated
  18. I own a 2006 YZ250F which i have a bit of sentimental value for. When I bought it, the bike seemed to be a bit rough. Over 3 yrs years, it got much rougher. The knock seems pretty bad, was thinking it was a back timing chain. Took it into the dealership to see how bad it was, and was told the bottom end was toast. If I recall, the crank even had some side to side movement. Something about copper or brass shavings found in the crank case. So now here I am browsing ebay, and I come across a bottom end for $550 which the selling company states is in good shape. And I have a choice, do I want to rebuild my bottom end, or just buy another one. I no longer will be riding this as my primary bike as I own a 2019 YZ250FX. But do want a reliable loaner bike for my friends and family. I know that no matter what I do, I need to replace my cylinder head and piston as well as a new timing chain and adjuster. So I pose the question to the group. Whats a better option in general for a noob dirtbike mechanic? I have built several Jeep and have plenty of automotive tools. Just never touched a dirtbike engine. Bottom end kits start at just over $300 with no crank, and $700 with a complete crank already assembled. I understand that there is something about installing the connecting rod and having to split the crank. Buying the bottom end and another cylinder head and piston. Assemble the whole thing and put it in my bike. The saddest thing on this whole thing, even now this bike starts right up in its current condition.
  19. I was shut in two weeks ago with this lockdown so I decided to make my own street legal kit form my 2006 YZ 250F. I brought it to AZ from another state and when I went to register it they asked if I wanted street legal? Without flynching I said of course. No inspection and a few hundred bucks later I had street plates for a race bike. Love this state! So in AZ you need headlight, plate light, brake light, mirror & horn. My plan is to be street legal for dirt riding as necessary and not go on long street rides, but maybe use the light on a late evening ride to find my way home. So I’m going with a total loss battery system. That avoids the charging system PITA. I bought everything off of eBay. All new except form the like new Rottweiler mirrors that I picked up for $150. For a brake light I bought a new Honda Shadow master cylinder with a brake microswitch. It has a mirror mounts so could have gone cheap there. Bolted right up. A pair of 20W LED headlights for $20 were bolted to the cheap Polisport number plate, with a $6 obnoxiously loud horn bolted to the other side of one light. Headlights only draw 1.67 amps each $10 on the rear light/plate holder I connected everything with some low voltage laptop power supply three wire wrapped in rubber I had laying around. I tied it all together with a $12 1/4“ terminal post that I bolted to the upper triple clamp with the plate bolt. One post + and one post -. I ordered a dual horn light switch that keeps getting cancelled so I used an old dual throw, dual pole switch I had and mounded it to the plate tie down. Forward for headlight reverse for horn. To dim I have to cycle that switch. For a battery a $12 lithium ion 12v 2.8 amp/hour camera battery that weighs less than 4oz. That means I can run at 2.8 amps for an hour. I will have to test it to see how long it lasts but the batteries are so cheap and light I can carry an extra one no problem I crimped it all together with bullet and ring connectors. I haven’t figured out where to mount the battery. I am thinking in a fanny pack strapped to the handlebars like one of those expensive bar packs they sell. Master cylinder $15 Horn $6 Head lights $20 Tail light $12 2 Post Terminal $12 Battery $12 Mirrors $150 but I could have gotten it for $10 So a total of $87 with a cheap mirror. Here it is.
  20. I’m in the middle of doing a top end rebuild on my 07 yz250f. I found a weird mark at the top of my cylinder. I tried to hone it out and the mark just got bigger. Do I need to replace the cylinder?
  21. I rebuilt the carb and put everything back together. When I tried starting it, it started with the choke on and ran fine but would die when I turned it off. I found that the hot start was loose and not seated properly. I screwed that in and now it won’t start on choke. If I push the hot start it will start but it dies out quickly. Any turn of the throttle kills it too. I used an All Balls 26-1282 Carburetor Rebuild Kit so all jets are OEM sizes. I have the fuel screw 2 turns out. Valves are in spec and before I tried starting it I cleaned out the gas tank and replaced the packing and O-ring in the petcock. I didn’t want any crud getting in the carb after I rebuilt it. What am I missing? Any help is appreciated. I also replaced the kickstart spindle assembly during all this but it did start and run fine on choke after that. Thanks
  22. Hi I have a 2004 YZ250F and I just found out my forks are binding and I’ve only went on one ride. Do you guys think it damaged anything or do I need to replace anything in my forks.
  23. I have a 2013 yz250f that need a new motor I was wondering what years match up with the 2013
  24. Hi crew. Do to job constraints and other issues, I have been unable to ride my 2016 YZ250F for about 14 months. I have some time off and looking to get it ready to ride again. I am going to take the tank off and drain the old fuel as a start. I am concerned about other issues I will face, like fuel pump, brakes and suspension components not being used for so long. The only positive is the bike is near new, only managed to put 13hrs on it from new before I was unable to ride it. So it doesn't have much use and the concerns are merely the fact that it's been sitting un-started for so long and fluids doing damage. What are the known problems I will face and what should be disassembled and looked over before I fire it up again. My main concern is fuel sitting in the fuel body/pump. Any pointers and links/websites/info would be much appreciated! Thanks for any advice and time!
  25. So i bought a 06 yz250f today and long story short bike bogged and backfired so i figured carb rebuild. I took the seat off to find there was no air filter.... im obviously going to get a air filter and clean and rebuild carb but do you think ill be safe without tearing motor apart? There was barley any dirt or debris in the air box. Never tore into a four stroke so trying to avoid if possible.
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