Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Yamaha'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Dirt Bikes
    • General Dirt Bike Forums
    • Make / Model Specific
    • Dirt Bike Technical Forums
    • Special Interest Forums
    • Dirt Bike Regional Discussion
  • General
  • ATV / UTV
  • Inside TT
  • ThumperTalk Clubs FAQ & Help's FAQ/Help & Discussion
  • Chadwick, Missouri: Information & Riding's Topics
  • So Cal Flattrack's Club Forum
  • Thumperjunkies - Ottawa & Eastern Ontario Riders's Discussion
  • Jersey MX and offroad's Places you ride
  • Jersey MX and offroad's Discussion
  • SE Ohio Riders's Club Discussion
  • NorCal Trail Riders's Topics
  • Northern Nevada Roaming Bastards's Discussion
  • North Texas Enduro Riders's Topics
  • Twistin it in PHX's Introduce yourself!
  • Twistin it in PHX's Discussion
  • So-Cal Track and Trail's 1st club ride coming soon...
  • Moto TnT Track & Trail's Moto Tnt Racing Questions
  • Moto TnT Track & Trail's Rider's Forum
  • Dualspot Riders Orange County So~CaL's Club Discussion
  • Chester County PA DS/Adventure's Im here
  • Chester County PA DS/Adventure's Ride Dates & Times
  • Niagara region's Club Discussion
  • Walker Valley Single Track Riders's Unanounced ride(s) recap(s)
  • Walker Valley Single Track Riders's Supplements & recovery aids
  • Walker Valley Single Track Riders's Bikes maintenance & restoration
  • Walker Valley Single Track Riders's Safety gear & apparel
  • Walker Valley Single Track Riders's General
  • Walker Valley Single Track Riders's Riding technique
  • Sacramento Area Trail Riders's Club Discussion
  • Sacramento Area Trail Riders's Info from another club
  • NC woods riders.'s Club Discussion
  • Colorado US Route 50 Rides's Club Discussion
  • Middle GA Off-Road & Trails's Club Discussion
  • WNY Dual Sport Trail Riders's General Discussion's
  • SoCal JUST RIGHT riding club's SUNDAY 10.13
  • OREGON Riders Club's Club Discussion
  • South Texas Dirt riders's Topics
  • PNW Trail Maintenance Club's Trail equipment and how to carry it
  • PNW Trail Maintenance Club's General Discussion
  • PNW Trail Maintenance Club's Introduce Yourself
  • New England riders's Events
  • SC Dirt Riders's Topics
  • Club RMX's Photos and videos
  • Club RMX's Engine & Engine tuning
  • Club RMX's Chassis, Suspension, & tuning
  • Club RMX's Electrical and electronics
  • Club RMX's Body, fender, & Graphics
  • Club RMX's Build projects
  • Club RMX's Everything else
  • Club RMX's Classifieds
  • North GA Trail Riders's Topics
  • Virginia Supermoto's Club Discussion
  • Kentucky Trail Riders Club's Topics
  • ADK ADV's Notes

Categories

  • Powersports Gear & Apparel
  • Universal Parts & Accessories
  • Parts & Acc. - Japanese Bikes
    • Honda Parts & Accessories
    • Kawasaki Parts & Accessories
    • Suzuki Parts & Accessories
    • Yamaha Parts & Accessories
  • Parts & Acc. - Euro Bikes
    • Beta Parts & Accessories
    • Husqvarna Parts & Accessories
    • KTM Parts & Accessories
    • Other Euro Parts & Accessories
  • Motorcycles
    • Off-Road Motorcycles
    • Dual Sport Motorcycles
    • Street Motorcycles

Products Categories

Vehicles Categories

Garages

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Calendars

  • ThumperTalk Clubs FAQ & Help's Club Calendar
  • Chadwick, Missouri: Information & Riding's Events
  • So Cal Flattrack's Club Calendar
  • So Cal Flattrack's Events
  • Thumperjunkies - Ottawa & Eastern Ontario Riders's Club Calendar
  • Thumperjunkies - Ottawa & Eastern Ontario Riders's Events
  • SE Ohio Riders's Events Calendar
  • NorCal Trail Riders's Ride & Event calendar
  • Northern Nevada Roaming Bastards's Stuff that happens on a particular date
  • Central Washington riders's Events
  • Dualspot Riders Orange County So~CaL's Events Calendar
  • Niagara region's Club Events Calendar
  • Walker Valley Single Track Riders's I love Mondays trail ride
  • Sacramento Area Trail Riders's Events Calendar
  • Sacramento Area Trail Riders's First round of Hollister 2020
  • NC woods riders.'s Club Calendar
  • Colorado US Route 50 Rides's Club Calendar
  • Middle GA Off-Road & Trails's Club Calendar
  • OREGON Riders Club's Club Calendar
  • PNW Trail Maintenance Club's Calendar
  • North County San Diego - DirtbikesWithDad.com's 2020 Calendar
  • North GA Trail Riders's Ride Calendar
  • Virginia Supermoto's Club Calendar
  • Kentucky Trail Riders Club's Events

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Interests

Found 10,000 results

  1. So the other day I pulled the old 2004 YZ250F out after moving to Colorado from Hawaii so... the 1st problem started with ALTITUDE over a 6000 ft difference. I knew i needed jets so i went to the local shop here and they hooked me up. the 2nd problem after i got it all together, and rode around seemed flat at the top end and i started to get cherry pipes. so my dad said valves, you should check to see if its getting enough air. so i pulled it apart myself and start getting my gaps for re-shimming it. the 3rd problem comes along all the valves need adjustment. left exhaust was 0.15mm right exhaust was 0.15mm left intake was 0.00mm (could not get a 0.04mm is smallest feeler gauge i have) center intake was 0.00mm right intake was 0.09 specifications for the maintenance manual exhaust is 0.17mm to 0.22mm intake spec is 0.10mm to 0.15mm so i pull the center intake shim to see what size i need to put in and its 120mm, the smallest shim so im guessing i need new valves??? THIS IS WHERE I NEED YOUR HELP!!!!!!! ????????do i need to get all new valve assembly ( valve, seals, seats, springs, and retainers?) or just some parts ???????what kind of head work does this need before i install new valves??? (valve seat cutting) what shop is good? ????????steel vs titanium? ??????? will any valve work for a yz250f or do i need to get a measurement? since I am going to rebuild the valve train, im going to toss a new ring and piston in also. ?????? brands should i use for ring and piston ? should i send my cylinder off also? thanks for the help in advance
  2. Im trying to replace the clutch side crank seal on my blaster. it seems i cant get the whole old seal off. the seal didnt come of in one, i had to scrap it off. And now i cant fit a seal in there. here are some pics.
  3. I've been off here for a while but getting back into the woods lately. Thought I'd add some Blaster content. I've posted picts of my 2003 KTM 250 SX powered Blaster rocketship: My latest project is another 99 Blaster but with a Vitos big bore kit and 3mm stroker: My son actually put this together for me. It had been sitting for a couple years while I was busy at a new job and working with Search and Rescue. This machine is still in its early days. My son and I have build a few Blasters including a 32hp DT200 powered liquid cooled. This bored and stroked motor makes about the same power as the DT200. We have got more power than this with ported and rechambered aircooled motors so I know there is more potential in this motor. A very successful mod was filling the intake reedbox with epoxy rather than opening it up. The tighter box resulted in cleaner jetting and a wider powerband on the smaller aircooled motors. I strongly believe in making mods one at a time to be able to see what works and what doesn't.
  4. ok well im new hear and wanted some advice, i have a 05 660 that is cammed(stage 2) jetted to (50,55,25) i have extended swing arm and i run vp c12. well just recently it started running like shit and wont idle unless i have the idel screw all the way in, wich makes it run like crap all the time, then when i get in to second the thing bogs down and has no get up and go, this problem last all other gears and i dont know what to do? P.S it also has a custom built spectrum intake in it, and after putting the jets in i never adjusted the carb cause im not sure how to do it for my location and cause the pain it is to take this thing apart lol. thanks for the help guys or gals.
  5. Ok i have this starting issues with my 04 yfz 450 like many others have. i have a high compression piston and its jetted with a hmf pipe. I have replaced the battery twice with higher cranking batterys, replaced the starter, had the valves shimmed, had the carb rebuilt, and The spark plug is new and gives good spark. I also run the quad with my headlights on whenever i bump start it. The issue im having is whenever i completely charge it up and take it out it will fire right up on the first click of the starter but if i shut it off it will not start up again without bump starting it. It sounds like there isn't enough juice pushing the motor over and sounds like the battery is dying but if i put it on the quick charger it says i have a high percentage left on my battery. I was thinking stator, cdi box, or a relay please help its killing my wallet and motivation lol
  6. Has anyone does this yet? I have a 01 wolverine that I've had for 01 year and I just thought about adding a brake light to it. I have a raptor 700 front master cylinder on there since the original crapped out so that's the easy part and then I planned on using a banjo bolt style for the rear since the left hand brake works the rear brake but I wasn't sure about the plug/ tail light section. I'm thinking of using a raptor 350 tail light harness to try to fit with the wolverine square lens. For the wiring I was gonna take a power off that is keyed so it's not always on but wire them in parallel to make it come on when either or switches kick in. What do you guys think or is there a better way?
  7. okay guys!!! im having some issues and its really starting to piss me off. it almost seems like my right side cylinder isnt firing. i have good compression and when i first starts up it puffs out your normal two stroke smoke and then it goes away and sometimes it will run like its suppose to but 80% of the time it does. maybe a fuel issue??? im going to check spark and om everything out tonight. everything i have checked so far is good any ideas??
  8. I am completely stumped. I am working on an 07 Raptor 350. It has a intermittent spark. However, the spark only shows up occasionally when releasing the start button. It never sparks when cranking. Only occasionally when releasing the start button after attempting to start. I have replaced the stator, swapped CDI's, swapped batteries, swapped ignition coils, checked ground continuity for the CDI and the battery, cleaned the ground for the ignition coil, cleaned all connectors, checked continuity between all wires in the ignition circuit and checked power to the CDI. I have become completely stumped. I have no idea where to go from now. I have found several threads started on google for this same issue but no one ever has a solution. Please help!!!
  9. I traded my zero turn that needed some work for a Warrior that needs rebuilt. I traded with my friend and luckily he has all the parts for the rebuild except the crank and gaskets. I'm thinking about building it up and trading it for a nice 250F or 450F but I have a feeling I'm going to fall in love with the Warrior and end up with it and a bike. I'm probably going to mod it a pretty good bit and may black it out. Right now it is white with a red tank cover and all the plastics are in great shape so I'll keep them as a spare if I get black plastics. Anyone know where I can find a blue hood with maybe a scoop? I plan to black it out with blue accents and I think that'll look pretty nice. Are they any good for racing or are there any classes they can even race in? I want to see how I'd do in a race.
  10. Hey all, I have been waiting for this day for quite a while. I am finally able to fix my bike, i've been in debt for some time but the day has come 🙂 Now i have a question, when I got my bike checked out at the shop, i was told i could rebuild my crank with any rod and bearings from 1986-2000. I am going to purchase an entire new hot rods crank instead. Am i able to order any crank from 1986-2000 for my bike? Mine is a 1987. I just want to make sure I am getting the correct part before I spend the money! Appreciate any replies or help. Thanks!!
  11. Basically I have a 2001 ttr125 and the side panels are all scratched up. I need a decal set to go over them so it looks good. The only problem is I cannot find a set of decals for the white side panels of a ttr125 anywhere. I need your guys help, can you help me find some decals or stickers to put over them? I can post pictures tomorrow. Any ideas would help a lot!
  12. I was replacing the water pump seals on my 2002 yz85, when I noticed that underneath the kickstart gear there was a hole going into the transmission. The hole was about 1 cm big but it still concerns me. Is that supposed to be there? I noticed my bikes been running as if it has an air leak, could this be the cause? I haven’t noticed any oil loss at all. I haven’t had any problems besides an air leak somewhere causing it to run lean. Could this hole affect how the bike runs? Could it cause any problems? If so, can it be fixed with something like JB Weld or would it need a whole new case? Or is that hole supposed to be there and I’m just being an idiot?
  13. So I bought a brand new yz450f last night started playing with it today got excited to connect my phone to it and see what the new tuner app is all about, but when I reoved the number plate the WiFi module wasn’t there called the dealer they said Yamaha is supposed to put those in, called Yamaha but customer service isn’t opened on the weekend, is the dealer blowing smoke and just forgot to install it and threw it away with the crate? Or did Yamaha really forget to put it in at the factory? Has anyone else had this problem? Any info would be appreciated
  14. Hey guys, So I have a cracked front fender on my 02 Wr250f and all I can find are blue front fenders only and the problem is I want to change all the plastics with possibly a different color like black. If you guys know if any YZ model’s plastics or any other models would fit on my WR that would be great.
  15. Recently acquired a low-hour 2005 WR450 and was faced with having to un-do the half assed attempt at AIS removal the previous owner had done. A real horror show that leaked badly and it had to go in favor of a proper permanent solution. The GYTR AIS removal kit for the 2005-6 WR450s is a dodgy solution also, relying on clamping a cap on the 90 degree elbow coming out of the cylinder head. There used to be pre-made options for AIS removal on these bikes, but now those are all gone except for the GYTR kit. The solutions that are no longer available consisted of a plug that was driven into the hole in the head left after removing the pipe elbow. A much better solution than the GYTR kit. Some will say the GYTR kit is nice because it includes a needle and throttle stop, but the value there is dubious considering that you can just cut the throttle stop and many folks (myself included) opt for the JD jetting kit so that makes the GYTR needle and jets unnecessary. So, faced with not wanting to lay out $50 for the GYTR kit and its weak answer to the problem I set out to find an acceptable substitute for the plugs that are no longer available. Behold the solution: Dorman part number 555-106 freeze plugs, a whopping 39 cents each at O'Reilly Auto Parts. These are 12.1mm oil gallery plugs. The hole in the head is 12mm, and these fit perfectly. Actually a bit tighter than the pipe elbow I removed. One plug installed: There is a lip at the bottom of the hole that prevents them from being driven in too far. The hole is deep enough to accept as many as three plugs, but that is definitely overkill. As tightly as they fit, one should be plenty but erring on the side of caution and just wanting to fill the hole up so it doesn't collect a lot of mud and dirt I installed a second one: These are not coming out without a drill and a slide hammer. This is the proper, permanent solution to this problem! For the small vacuum fitting on the head near the carb, a standard rubber vacuum cap is sufficient. Also for the airbox, a 1/2 inch rubber vacuum cap took care of that. Total investment: Dorman 555-106 plugs: .39 each, .78 total Pack of assorted vacuum caps: 3.49 Total: $4.27 Less than 1/10 the price of the GTYR kit, and a MUCH better solution in my opinion!
  16. So, many of you in the dirt bike scene are aware that Rekluse makes automatic clutches. The reviews on these clutches, if properly setup, have been simply awesome. Well, I must agree, they are simply awesome. I did a lot of research on this clutch before I put down the money for this clutch. Was it worth it? Absolutely! During my installation process, I took a few pictures to help anybody else who is interested in this type of clutch. Here are a few of the basic tools you will need to get the clutch installed. What you don't see in the picture (yes, I'll need to get it updated) is a dental pic tool. These are really handy when you are trying to pull the clutch packs out. Yes, it can be done with a flat tip screwdriver, but its much easier with the right tool. Here is a close up picture of the cable operated clutch actuator that sits on top of the case. Mine was kinda dirty due to a leaking seal on the front sprocket. So, lay the bike on its left side. I believe the instructions call for you to drain the oil. In my case, I didn't need to do that, as the oil moved to the low side of the case. Don't forget to remove the pin on the back side of the bolt that holds the rear brake pedal on. I though I would show you the differences in the bolt sizes for the crank case cover. The two larger ones are the same size, and then there is a 3rd one that goes with the centering pin, which is a little longer than the other 4 shorter bolts. I have never delved into the motorcycles mechanics before. However, as you can see from my web site, I'm no rookie to handling sockets. These pics are for the person who has the bike, but has yet to do any real maintenance on their bike. Here is a shot of inside the clutch cover. Here you can see the friction plates stacked up. At first, I put tape down to seal off the rest of the case from clutch. However, I found that the tape would stick to the clutch boss, and the make getting the friction plates out a little more difficult. I then moved to the back up plan; terry cloths. These worked quite well, and I was able to seal up the gaps very well. Here you can see the clutch springs coming out. These won't be used anymore. However, don't throw them away. You may end up selling the bike down the road and may want to keep your Rekluse. Here is a shot of the clutch boss and the friction plates. Here you can see the centering pins going into the clutch boss. Look closely, you can see 4 very small washers that are sitting around each centering pin. These washers are very small, don't loose them. I had, lots, and lots of washer left over. Don't be surprised. It appeared that they give you a generic bag of parts, and you use what you need from the bag. Here is the heart of the Rekluse. Here is something I found interesting, and nearly put a stop to my whole setup. Notice how the centering pins don't pass through the Rotating Hub Assembly. I was a little concerned when I came across this. However, rotate the holes one more to the left or right, and the Assembly falls right into place. Rotating Hub Assembly in place. Here the Pressure Plate and Ball Bearings are being installed. You may be wondering if I put any oil on the bearings before I installed the Top Plate. Actually, I installed the parts to make sure it would all go together correctly, then I took it apart, lubed it as necessary, then put it back together for the final install. Next, the top plate is being installed. Just about done. Rekluse states that if you don't use their gasket, serious damage can occur. I noticed that their gasket is quite a bit thicker than the stock gasket. Next up, I went through the break in procedure. Fortunately, it was a work day for most folks, so many people in my neighborhood were at work and didn't complain about me racing up and down the street. Because I installed new Friction Plates, Rekluse recommends that you check the gap between the top Friction Plate and Drive Plate. When I put it all together the 1st time, it was dead on. After the break in, the gap spread to the maximum allowed. So, I used another one of the Rekluse Drive Plates in place of one of my stock drive plates. Yes, you need to get back into the case, replace the Drive Plate, remeasure the gap, use Loctite again and put it all back again. But in light of the cost of this unit, and the simple 10 minutes it takes, its well worth it to ensure you have the right gap. I rode the bike the very next day on some tight trails for a straight 4.5 hours. The clutch performed flawlessly. I never had an issue with the bike stalling. In fact, I noticed that when I started the bike in neutral, and then put it in 1st gear, the bike didn't move as much as it did when I had a standard cable clutch. Well worth the money, and when properly setup, performs awesomely. As noted above, I'm no stranger to sockets and working on vehicles. I've redone my own suspension on the rear of my 4Runner. I designed and built my 3-link setup on my 4Runner, and created a vehicle that can rock crawl the extreme trails, and yet cruise on the highway at 80mph in comfort. I am very cautious when doing something for the first time, so it aways takes a bit more time. For somebody who has never done this before, give yourself about 4 hours. I had to crack the case twice to add a thicker drive plate to bring the gap tolerances back into spec. But, its better to do it right the first time and not have problems down the trail.
  17. 1 review

    FEATURES Sold as pair Injection-molded, quality plastic components with a perfect OEM type fit. Exact replica of stock OEM plastic components but stronger Inexpensive alternative to OEM replacement parts. Stock color match with less fade Glossy and flexible Impact and abrasion resistant Less prone to scratching or marking Packaged in a printed plastic bag
  18. 1 review

    PRODUCT DETAILS Kit consists of radiator shrouds, front fender, rear fender, side panels and headlight shroud (fits your stock headlamp). Fork guards sold separately. This is O.E.M. plastic from Japan. Fits the WR250X/R.
  19. I wanted to be able to remove my fender packs when i don't need them...but i also like the security of the bolt-on design, rather than the strap on type of packs. Here is my solution. Chuck the pins in the worlds smallest vise and use a cutting wheel, or hacksaw to cut them just above the first hitch pin hole. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!! Cutting wheels have a tendency to fly apart whenever they want to...and riding is tough with one eye. Then chamfer and smooth the rough ends with the worlds smallest bench grinder. *I have a pretty small garage, so you will notice many of my tools are also of Lilliputian dimensions Now, you have used the bolt holes in your fender pack as a template to drill the appropriate holes in your fender. Here we see the trimmed Clevis pins with washers inserted into the underside of the fender holes, and epoxied in place. Here we see the finished product from the top of the fender. This is the way it will look when you don't want to lug around your packs. Now, you can use the hitch pins to secure your fender bag in a snap...and still take it off easily!! Here is my headlight shroud getting the same treatment. And the finished product, the way it looks when you don't want to take your packs. And here it is with my moose tool pack attached All done!!!!
  20. 0 reviews

    IDENTIFICATION Type: Cruiser Warranty (Months): 12 Revision Status: Carryover ENGINE Displacement (cc): 1304 Engine Type: V Twin Cylinders: 2 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: SOHC Carburetion Type: Fuel Injected TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Manual Number of Speeds: 5 Primary Drive System: Belt BRAKES Front Brakes: Hydraulic Disc Rear Brakes: Hydraulic Disc TIRES Front Tire(s): 120/70-21M/C Rear Tire(s): 210/40R-18M/C SPECIFICATIONS Wheelbase (in / mm): 68.9 / 1750.1 Dry Weight (lbs / kg): N/A Fuel Capacity (gal / L): 4 / 15.1 Seat Height (in / mm): 26.4 / 670.6 Number of Seats: 2 FEATURES Tachometer: Not Available Digital Instrumentation: Standard Windshield: Optional
  21. 0 reviews

    IDENTIFICATION Type: Cruiser Warranty (Months): 12 Revision Status: Carryover ENGINE Displacement (cc): 249 Engine Type: V Twin Cylinders: 2 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: SOHC Carburetion Type: Carburetor TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Manual Number of Speeds: 5 Primary Drive System: Chain BRAKES Front Brakes: Hydraulic Disc Rear Brakes: Drum TIRES Front Tire(s): 3 X 18 Rear Tire(s): 130/90 VR15 SPECIFICATIONS Wheelbase (in / mm): 58.7 / 1491 Dry Weight (lbs / kg): N/A Fuel Capacity (gal / L): 2.5 / 9.5 Seat Height (in / mm): 27 / 685.8 Number of Seats: 2 FEATURES Tachometer: Not Available Digital Instrumentation: Not Available Windshield: Optional
  22. 0 reviews

    IDENTIFICATION Type: Cruiser Warranty (Months): 12 Revision Status: Carryover ENGINE Displacement (cc): 249 Engine Type: V Twin Cylinders: 2 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: SOHC Carburetion Type: Carburetor TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Manual Number of Speeds: 5 Primary Drive System: Chain BRAKES Front Brakes: Hydraulic Disc Rear Brakes: Drum TIRES Front Tire(s): 3 X 18 Rear Tire(s): 130/90 VR15 SPECIFICATIONS Wheelbase (in / mm): 58.7 / 1491 Dry Weight (lbs / kg): N/A Fuel Capacity (gal / L): 2.5 / 9.5 Seat Height (in / mm): 27 / 685.8 Number of Seats: 2 FEATURES Tachometer: Not Available Digital Instrumentation: Not Available Windshield: Optional
  23. 0 reviews

    IDENTIFICATION Type: Cruiser Warranty (Months): 12 Revision Status: Carryover ENGINE Displacement (cc): 1854 Engine Type: V Twin Cylinders: 2 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: OHV - Pushrod Carburetion Type: Fuel Injected TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Manual Number of Speeds: 5 Primary Drive System: Belt BRAKES Front Brakes: Dual Hydraulic Disc Rear Brakes: Hydraulic Disc TIRES Front Tire(s): 130/70-18 Rear Tire(s): 190/60-17 SPECIFICATIONS Wheelbase (in / mm): 67.5 / 1714.5 Dry Weight (lbs / kg): N/A Fuel Capacity (gal / L): 4.5 / 17 Seat Height (in / mm): 27.8 / 706.1 Number of Seats: 2 FEATURES Tachometer: Standard Digital Instrumentation: Standard Windshield: Optional
  24. 0 reviews

    IDENTIFICATION Type: Cruiser Warranty (Months): 12 Revision Status: Carryover ENGINE Displacement (cc): 1854 Engine Type: V Twin Cylinders: 2 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: OHV - Pushrod Carburetion Type: Fuel Injected TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Manual Number of Speeds: 5 Primary Drive System: Belt BRAKES Front Brakes: Dual Hydraulic Disc Rear Brakes: Hydraulic Disc TIRES Front Tire(s): 130/70-18 Rear Tire(s): 190/60-17 SPECIFICATIONS Wheelbase (in / mm): 67.5 / 1714.5 Dry Weight (lbs / kg): N/A Fuel Capacity (gal / L): 4.5 / 17 Seat Height (in / mm): 27.8 / 706.1 Number of Seats: 2 FEATURES Tachometer: Standard Digital Instrumentation: Standard Windshield: Standard
  25. 0 reviews

    IDENTIFICATION Type: Cruiser Warranty (Months): 12 Revision Status: Carryover ENGINE Displacement (cc): 1854 Engine Type: V Twin Cylinders: 2 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: OHV - Pushrod Carburetion Type: Fuel Injected TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Manual Number of Speeds: 5 Primary Drive System: Belt BRAKES Front Brakes: Dual Hydraulic Disc Rear Brakes: Hydraulic Disc TIRES Front Tire(s): 130/70-18 Rear Tire(s): 190/60-17 SPECIFICATIONS Wheelbase (in / mm): 67.5 / 1714.5 Dry Weight (lbs / kg): N/A Fuel Capacity (gal / L): 4.5 / 17 Seat Height (in / mm): 27.8 / 706.1 Number of Seats: 2 FEATURES Tachometer: Standard Digital Instrumentation: Standard Windshield: Standard
Ă—
Ă—
  • Create New...