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  1. On Saturday I went to Thompson Speedway and had a great time with my CBR F3 track bike. This was my first time at the track and I was killing everyone. Some expert group riders came to me and complemented me on how fast I was and they were really impress with my performance, especially given the bike I had. This had me feeling so good about myself, performing so well on a 20 year old bike, that when I got home that evening, I decided I would take my 03 YZ250 2 stroke to Calverton MX track near me in long Island, the next day which was Sunday. I wake up very excited to get on the track. After I load the bike and put all my gear in my car, I start my one hour drive to Calverton. When I get to the track, I have to unload the bike. First thing I noticed that it was more difficult to manage the bike while on dirt instead of concrete. I then put all my gear on and again, more challenge came about because I was struggling to mount the bike with all of the gear and sketchy dirt. Ok, now that I figured that out, it was time to ride the bike. The people at the location showed me the beginners track which they were nut if they thought I was going on that on my first real ride. So I decide to putter around with the bike to get a feel for it. First struggle I had was I could not shift. Ok, so I pull over near my car and bring the shift peg up. Where I wanted it seemed way too high because when I did a mock shift it would hit the chain so I had to leave it lower then I cared to. Now I go through the struggled to get back on the bike to take a second ride. WTF, why cant I tell when the gears are shifting. No jerk, no clunk, no real indication if I was shifting and the freaking gears all sound the same to me. So I run into a group and ask if anyone could take my bike up and down the road to make sure everything was good. A 2T rider jumped on and said the bike ran great and I just had to get used to the shifting since I would not feel it because of my boots. OK so now I understand that I'm the problem not the bike, I putter around some more until I was comfortable going up and down a path in a straight line. So after I felt comfortable, I decide it was time to hit the mini track. Once I get on the rack, the freaking rear kept kicking out from me. I was holding the bars so tight that I knew this is not a good situation to be riding in. Every time I got to a sand section, the rear would really kick out from me and I would have to put my feet down to kick the bike back up. A few riders told me that I had to go through the section fast to avoid the kicking out I was having with the rear. So I listen and bam, down I go in some sandy crap. IDK why the hell I turned the bike off but I do and now I'm stuck. A few guys run to help me like I'm a freaking damsel in distress. After this kid help me pull my bike out (like they had a choice with my blocking the track) I put my tail between my legs and load the bike up to concluded the day. A few guys told me to get rid of the two stroke and get a four stroke which gives you a way smoother power delivery but I hate being defeated so I will learn how to rid this thing. I used to think I was great with throttle control but everything the bike got loose a whisky throttle situation started to take affect. I was able to get the throttle back under control but I never knew that I lacked such a control skill I thought I had. I don't know how I go from one day feeling like I was on top of the world to the next day feeling like I'm probably the worst 2T rider ever born. I plan to book a trip to lost trails in a few weeks so I can get some seat time with the bike. Hopefully by then I will feel comfortable with it and I can start to relax and have some fun.
  2. I'm working on rebuilding a 2001 YZ250 from the crank up and am having a problem with the top end going together. When I snug down the cylinder, the piston locks up with, or without the rings on it. I can also move piston around in the cylinder but it won't go up and down. There's 2 5/16" on both sides of the rod, so the crank appears to be centered. Specs: New Hot Rods crank and bearings New Wiseco piston Cylinder was serviced by Millenium Technologies. Has anyone had this problem before or know what it might be??
  3. Bought the bike end of December, put 3 rides just testing before sending the suspension off, then purchased hour meter. So I'm adding 3 hrs to the current reading of 25hrs on my meter. Bike ran alright last Saturday, the next day Sunday it started running progressively worse. Specifically the top end wide open throttle performance went away almost completely. It falls on it's face at wide open on the track. Off the track on the stand if you rev it all the way out it makes a sound that goes up and down "Whaaooowhaaooowhaaoo" Sorry didn't take a video. Switching to leaner and richer mains did nothing and the weather and location did not change between days. I tore it down for a new top end and by the looks of the inside of the motor I'm not convinced it was a top end/ worn rings/ compression issue. Give me your thoughts/ experience. Thanks for reading. I'll post pic later this evening.
  4. I know alot of people will say not to, but the plastics dont look too well anyways and i might want to buy new ones including the gas tank , but that will cost alot of money ill wait on that, my bike is a 1989 yz250 so the only color i can get is white, I was wondering how well the krylon fusion Patriot Blue would look like the Yamaha blue?
  5. Hey peeps, So I've had my 2000 yz125 for a while and came across a nice 2007 yz250 for a decent enough price. So after a quick check to make sure it is what it is I bought it 🙂 I had to get some work done on the carb and thanks to this forum and "in chains" (ringwood) the bike doesn't pee fuel from the overflow anymore! I really wanted your opinions on how these bikes feel and go - sounds weird but I haven't ridden a 250 2t for about 20 years - I was 15 and it was a 88 cr250. I remember it literally snapping my arms off and this bike doesn't do that to me. Now... Yes I am 20 years older (and 90% fatter) so maybe it's me but when ever I get on my 125 it feels quick and revvy. Ride it like you stole it! Is what I have been told and for the 125 it's like that, opened fully screaming and feels really involved. The 250 feels so much tamer. So the 250 has a vhm race head, fmf gnarly exhaust and shorty silencer. The power hits from the start and will easily spin the back wheel and wheelie in 3rd and 4th pretty easily. 5th feels like another 3rd! But it's all low down and ends pretty quickly. So by my description I should be happy but it doesn't feel as "urgent" as my 125 and I swear the 125 has a higher top end speed (not many people care about it but Id like to know it's normal). The compression is just a notch under 200psi which I believe is good. Don't get me wrong it feels massively torquey but I just can't shake the feeling there should be a bit more up top. Have 2t 250s changed a lot since back in the day? Should I be looking at something on the bike to see if I can improve top end or am I just being weird! Ps - the suspension is so much better than my 125 2000 🙂 Cheers peeps pics below of her
  6. Just got my first dirt bike from my brother. He gave it to me because it was broken and he had another but he won’t help me. He said that the engine blew up while he was riding it, the kick start won’t move and neither will the fly wheel. I need help since I’ve only ever worked on a tiny economy engine. Can anyone tell me how to fix it or tell me what type of other two stroke engines can I replace it with? Thank you
  7. I have a yz250 with a bored over piston that is 67.35mm, and I was wondering what the cc would be.
  8. I have very little experience tuning carbs so I need help getting pointed in the right direction.. My 98 yz250 is hard to cold start and fouls plugs every once in a while when I'm trying to cold start it. Just need some advice on where I should start with changing jets and how to know when to stop. Normally I would just start with factory settings but I don't think that's a good baseline since I put a 2001 kx250 pwk carb on it to replace my pwm as I was told that it was a decent upgrade to the pwm and I was having trouble with the pwm anyways Currently my specs are: Air screw 2t out 168main 50pilot Br8es Pro circuit pipe Fmf shorty recently repacked. 40:1 Lucas semi synthetic Unsure of needle size or height but likely it's stock from the kx. (Mids feel normal to me anyway) I live and ride at about 3500ft and usually only ride if Temps are 50°F -100°F and normally 40% humidity And I blocked off the "pump jet"? On the pwk with a bolt. The bike runs really good other than starting cold and every once in a while it will take 5-6 good kicks to even hot start right after shutting off the engine. Also I've noticed it will "cough" as I'm hitting the kill switch every now and then. Haven't actually measured compression but it feels strong on the starter and the bike is scary fast so should be good there. Also I'll attach some pictures of the plug with about an hour of runtime on it total. I know I probably just need to go down a few sizes on the pilot, main, and maybe adjust air screw a bit, but no idea by how much on either so any help would be greatly appreciated! I'd rather ask than blow stuff up.
  9. Is it ok for the clutch cable to be touching the engine/is the cable housing heat resisitant? The cable routing diagram in the owner's manual says to pass the cable in front of the cylinder head but doesn't mention contact with the engine. I'm just wondering if the housing could melt if the engine gets too hot as it is lightly resting on it. And if not, are there any other cables that may be susceptible to heat that should not make direct contact with the engine or exhaust?
  10. Hi all, I am a 15 y/o that loves trail riding. I have gotten good on a ktm125 but never really ride that hard and mainly I’m always in 1st gear on the trails. I’m thinking of upgrading to a yz250. I’m a careful rider and some of my friends think I’ll get hurt, is that bike too powerful for the trails?
  11. Hello fellow ThumperTalkers. I recently bought a 2020 YZ250 and have some questions on the suspension. Here is some back story: - I am 130lbs w/o gear - Mid-pack B class rider (still new to the 250 2-stroke so I am trying to get to the top of B class) - I had a 2016 YZ125 and left the springs, sag, compression, and rebound completely stock. The bike handled perfect, but I never adjusted the suspension so I don’t know if it could have been better Now with the YZ250. As I said, I am 130lbs w/o gear. Would I be able to get away with using the stock springs? If you’re around my weight and own a 2006+ YZ250 with stock springs, what is your setup (compression, rebound, etc.)? BTW, I will be raising my forks up 7mm in the triple clamps. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  12. Hey everyone, I just got this Yz250 about a month ago and I bought it with what the owner called a “leak” from the power valve. I think it just came from him using the incorrect thickness on some gasket or seal but it really didn’t affect the power at all. I’ve ridden the bike a good couple times and it’s been awesome. However, after washing the bike, I noticed the bike sounded/ran a little odd. It felt like every time I pulled the throttle there was like a second blip that came with it, and I feel like the bike is plugged or something and it’s not as loose as it was. I wasn’t yearning that crisp sound at when I revved it like normal. I’m assuming that I got water into the power valve somehow through that leak cause there was grey sludge coming out of the drainage hose after riding it a little last night and today. If water did enter is this a major detrimental problem, or is it going to be ok if I just get that leak foxed out and the power valve cleaned out? Thanks!!
  13. If you guys were looking for a "new" 250 2t what would it be, and why? Would you lean towards 07 ish Jap bikes or the new Ktm and husky models? Just curious...
  14. I am looking for a bike mostly a yz250 but I'm short and light can i still ride a bike of that size and weight?
  15. looking for a shop to install a wide-ratio transmission in my '94 YZ250 cases NO FRIENDS/CL INDEPENDENT MECHANICS I don't care if "he's the best guy in town!" or "he rebuilt my 1775 CR125 into a podium finishing monster bike!" or if you're so impressed that he works on cars so "he can figure anything out" the last one that took my bike in August, I pre-paid all the parts, he claimed millennium lost the cylinder, stopped responding to calls/texts, skipped town, I stalked his house for weeks, and I was ready to file charges with the police over a stolen bike until I got it back in October (not fully finished). I don't care if he builds bikes for magazines or he's an ex-desert racer, or services bikes for the Krishna-Jehovah-Allah-Buddah race team blah blah blah blah. No friends/independent mechanics. and no, I won't do it. I am a professional bolt stripper and crank mis-aligner...I need the motor to run LA->Vegas without any breakdowns. So far the places on my list are: -inside line moto -tokyo mods other dealers won't touch a bike that old
  16. Hey fellas im just finishing my yz250 project and just got polisport restyle kit plastics for which i need graphics.So can anyone give me vector for them so i can draw my custom graphics in corel?Thanks
  17. So I have a 2002 YZ 250 that’s torn down for full restoration. I just had the bottom end rebuilt and when I got the motor back from the shop decided to clean it up. I used a dremel and brass wire wheel to clean it up and it looked great till the oxidation started. I wasn’t thinking about whatever protective coating Yamaha had applied 19 years ago. What can I do at this point to make it look right?
  18. 0 comments

  19. Bryan II

    Yamaha YZ250 2019

    0 reviews

    2‑STROKES, 1ST PLACE Pure performance and full‑throttle adrenaline, the YZ250 is 2‑strokes of lightweight power combined with the legendary Yamaha reliability and durability. Top Features Modern Styling Modern, aggressive styling, including front fender, front number plate, radiator shrouds, side number plates, air box, rear fender, fork guards, as well as the rear brake disc protector, rear brake caliper protector and wider foot pegs—just like the 4-strokes. Lightweight Frame A light aluminum frame housing a patented YPVS™-equipped ripper of an engine results in an awesome power-to-weight ratio. Rider-Friendly Chassis Ultra light weight means nimble handling with less fatigue. 270mm Front Brake Large 270mm front disc brake coupled with high-performance pad material offers outstanding machine control and performance, with exceptional stopping power and controllability. Engine Two-Stroke Power 249cc liquid-cooled reed-valve-inducted two-stroke engine is lightweight, compact and features an incredibly wide, hard-hitting powerband. Yamaha Power Valve System Patented YPVS™ combines crisp, hard-hitting bottom-end acceleration with strong midrange and eye-opening top-end. Advanced Carburetion 38mm Keihin® PWK carburetor with power jet and throttle position sensor (TPS) provides precise fuel/air mixing and extra-crisp throttle response throughout the powerband. Race-Developed Intake Special-design carbon fiber reed-valve petals improve throttle response and engine performance across the entire rpm range. Close-Ratio Transmission Smooth-shifting, five-speed, close-ratio transmission with heavy-duty, multiplate clutch. High-Capacity Radiator Large-capacity radiator features a ten-row core with four louvers for maximum cooling efficiency. Digital Ignition Digital CDI system delivers precise spark for faster, stronger response anywhere in the powerband. Chassis/Suspension 270mm Front Brake Large 270mm front disc brake coupled with high-performance pad material offers outstanding machine control and performance, with exceptional stopping power and controllability. Industry-Leading Fork The KYB® 48mm forks feature the Speed-Sensitive System that uses piston speed to control damping force for super-precise handling and a smooth ride. Aluminum Frame A carefully engineered, advanced aluminum frame and swingarm give the YZ250 the best handling in the 250 class. Lightweight Subframe Removable aluminum rear subframe is constructed of square-section tubing for reduced weight. Advanced KYB® Shock Fully adjustable KYB® shock features reduced-friction Kashima Coat™ internals, 12.4 inches of travel, separate adjusters for high- and low-speed compression damping, and a full lock oil rebound system for increased comfort. All adding up to fantastic rear wheel control and a sweet ride. Excel® Rims Lightweight 21-inch front and 19-inch rear Excel® rims provide exceptional durability and help reduce unsprung weight for optimal suspension, performance, and handling. Race-Ready Tires Premium Dunlop® knobbies offer race-spec traction and wear.
  20. 0 comments

  21. 0 comments

    Very fast bike .
  22. 0 comments

    Mods include 18 rear wheel, black excel rims,Maxxis tires, Moose bark busters, moose skid plate, renthal o ring chain and sprocket kit, streamline reflex unbreakable levers, jgr graphic kit and seat cover, hot rods crank, wiseco piston, boyeson reeds, tm designworks chain drive guide and guard kit, pro taper bars, turner footpegs, tusk brake and shift levers, hinson clutch plates, and kevlar grips. In love with this bike. The previous owner bought most the parts and this bike I a woods monster.
  23. 0 comments

    I bought this bike completely clapped out from a coworker as a winter project. Rebuilt the engine and transmission. Rebuilt and resprung the suspension. Have been riding single track, groomed trails, and some motocross. Loving this bike.
  24. 0 comments

    Fast, reliable, bike.
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