Search the Community: Showing results for tags 'adjust'.
Found 3 results
Hi I own a 4stroke TE 250 year 2008 EFI bike, it has high idle (about 3500-4000rpm), and the neutral light is on, sometimes flashing. Bike is without lambda with 2.2K resistor, but stock exhaust, hard throttle stop removed. I install ibeat v2, and can connect to bike via cheap vag-com cable. What i did: - i set full open throttle to WOT 100.5%, closed is now 0% - idle air screw i adjust full closed position, then 2,5 back. - i check and measurement valve clearence is all good. - i check the fuel pump and fix it, now there is in original place. - I set TPS setting read/set 0% is about 980mV full 100% is 43xx mV (i remember...) - All my CO1 CO2 CO3 is 100%, and i dont change that - Checked fail history, and cleared it was ,,tilt sensor" in history (i think because the wrong TPS before) - I remove the 2.2K resistor, and the idle stand on normal about 1750-1800 rpm. I let about 5 min to run it was linear, but when i put out the choke nothing happen, except i hear like more air flowing in engine. With resistor and using choke the idle increase normally as by cold starting. Bike is running well, starting good clod and warm, i dont have much experience (i ride with my bike 1 hour) but i think it is weak, i own before a Suzuki RM 125 it was much stronger. I read many thopic about the problem, i think i shoud buy a lambda (I dont have the original lambda) and warm the engine, connect to ibeat and set the FB1 to 100, and all will fine......... Any experience? WBR Bertold
I just got a new dirt bike, but I'd like to adjust the rear brake pedal. The rear brake feels more instant than I'm used to. I know how to raise and lower the pedal, but is there a way that I can add free play? I want to have more space between "not braking" and "locked up rear brakes". I can still ride the bike as it is now, I'm just used to more play in the break pedal. Thanks for your help.
Hey Thumper Talk community I've been all over the forums trying to find out what is going on with my 09 drz400sm clutch. So during the end last riding season I noticed my clutch lever started feeling poor. Just didn't give a very good feel but still functioned just fine. I thought the lever just needed to be adjusted. So in preparing for this up coming riding season here in Minnesota I started to adjust my clutch lever. No matter how I adjusted it at the lever/perch/cable area I could not get it dialed in. I then proceed to work on the clutch arm and see if that was the problem. From what I was reading the clutch throwout post needs to be rotated all the way counterclockwise, then the arm place in either the original position or parallel to the bike. I feel like I have tried every position and every time it leads little to no room in the cable to adjust it at the perch and wont fully disengage the transmission. The clutch lever has great feel but no slack in the line and will barely allow me to rotate the rear tire while the lever is in and in gear.(not fully disengaging) I started to think something inside the clutch was wrong even though it worked fine last season. I followed this clutch inspection guide and everything is in tolerance. I'm kind of stumped. I even tried to put everything back to how it was last season to see if i could get something but no luck. I have zeta levers and a replacement cable (original cable snapped). Both worked fine in the past. Let me know if you have any suggestions. I appreciate your time. -Justin