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Found 17 results

  1. I have my 2001 DRZ400S I have converted to a supermoto, and now I want to start doing performance mods. I want to do the 3X3 mod, along with a jet kit, and a pipe. As of now my personal choice is going to be the Yoshi RS2 Full system, a Dynojet jet kit, and a K&N filter for the 3X3. I am posting this to see if anyone would disagree with this setup, or have any recommendations on what might be better or worth doing along the way. (I do not want to wait 4 weeks for the MRD exhaust or I would go that route) Any comments or recommendations are greatly appreciated, Going to do this in about one week. Thank you, Brad
  2. Whats up everybody, Just want to hear everyones preference on clutches. My clutch is gone, and in looking to replace am trying to figure out OEM vs Aftermarket. I see a lot of good things about Barnett but would love to hear about what TT riders think. I am a woods/trail rider and will probably never do MX, which I am not sure would affect which clutch would be best for me. Thanks homies
  3. Does anyone know of a good set of aluminum radiators?, I have an 03 cr125r. I had over sized aluminum radiators back when i raced 85s but cant remember the manufacturer, not sure if it was Mylers SuperCools or not. My 125s radiators are pretty tweaked but they still work fine. Would like to upgrade them instead of replacing stock OEMs. My stock plastics are under some serious stress on the shrouds radiator bolts, have a Polisport Restyle plastic kit coming in the mail and would rather not have to bend them to make them fit my bent radiators.
  4. Anyone know where I can get a shorter kick starter for 2009 YZ250F - want the faster spin to help starting. Happy to look at another bikes kick starter or modify stock version or buy an after market shorter version. Just cant find any options at the moment.
  5. Hello All, After searching the web for a rack that suited my needs for camping, beer, general storage, and additional tie-down spots on the bike, I didn't really find anything that suited me. I decided to design my own. Let me know what you guys think.
  6. ConnorMoto

    TTR 125 Mods?

    I'm looking to mod out my 2015 TTR 125 but I can't seem to find anything really except for like exhausts, sprockets, rims and obvious stuff like that. If anyone could help me out with some links or just names of stuff that would be great.
  7. I just recently re-installed my White Bros exhaust system on my 2001 Wr250f. It's a two piece (header and muffler). I installed the header, then slipped on the muffler. The muffler fit very loose around the header where they meet. I tried angling the header and muffler at all different angles, yet still very loose. So I went ahead and used some high temp gasket maker, which failed the first ride. Am I missing a gasket or spacer of some sort? If I push the muffler into the header and extra 1/4 inch it fits air tight, but then I cannot bolt the muffler into the mounting brackets. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  8. Hello all! I have just swapped from my old carburetor on my 1990 DR250s. Now I usually wouldn’t mess with the bike if it were a stock carb, because the Suzuki engineers know better than me, however, the carb on my engine is not stock. I have been rocking a flat slide carb without an air box ever since I bought the bike, and I had always known it was out of whack. It ran, but it wasn’t rideable for more than ten minutes on the street. Here’s my fix: I bought a VM32 Mikuni round slide carb off ebay, and the thing already rocks. I still do not have an air box, and I am not looking to deal w retrofitting one onto the new carb I have. If I could find the original carb I would put it on and call it a day, but as a DR rider, I know that finding that unicorn carb just isn’t going to happen. Now the question: What jetting would seem about right for my 32mm carburetor. I ran a 125 jet in my old carb that was 50mm, so I am wondering how and where I should start at 32mm. The jet that came with the VM32 was a 200 which was far too rich obviously. I live in Florida so I’m at sea level. P.S. Are hexagon shaped jets and round jets interchangeable? Because my old jet kit is a set of Mikuni round jets and the VM32 came with a singular hexagon shaped jet.
  9. Hey all im looking to get some new fenders for my 1998 KTM 250 EXC does anyone know where I can find them? I searched e-bay and Kiiji in my local area thank you.
  10. Looking for a company that sells a seat cover for a 1984 honda xr500r that has the old style square back seat but isnt oem and has some sort of grip on it. I believe it would be the same for xr200, xr350, xr600 and so on. Or maybe I can by a large universal blank seat cover and make it fit. Anyone have experience with this? This is what I currently have but its too slick. Need something with grip.
  11. The short answer is no, unless there is a very good reason for it. The long answer includes explanations as to why the answer is usually no and can be read below. Aftermarket or over-the-counter (OTC) oil additives come in a few general variations: Performance Additives Viscosity Modifiers Cleaners Inhibitors Magic & Sci-Fi There can certainly be other types, but a vast majority of OTC additives fall into one of these categories. Performance additives generally include anti-wear, extreme pressure, and friction modifying additives. They often have some root in traditional oil formulations; meaning they are commonly used in existing oil formulations and advertised as "performance boosters". For the most part, as OTC additives, they are unpredictable at best, the marketing claims for their performance is rarely supported by any credible evidence, and they usually don't live up to the expectations. A big problem is: more rarely equals better for these additives, and simply adding them does not increase the advertised performance reliably. Many of these types of additives experience diminishing returns with regard to performance and their proportion of the lubricant formula. Other groups of them actually experience decreased performance with increased concentrations. So adding them to oils that already have additives providing this performance results in neither additive groups doing the job right. Another problem with these additives is their ability to disrupt the surface activity the additives of the original lubricant were designed to do. So by adding one of these chemicals, it is likely to diminish the original performance of the lubricant and substitute it with a potentially less effective replacement. There are undoubtedly many anecdotes of these types of additives doing good, but that is more than likely due to either luck or a placebo effect. Every oil formula is different and adding these random amount of random additives is unpredictable at best without knowing the original oil formulation and exactly what you are adding at what quantity. No additive I have ever come across would work in every formula at the exact same concentration. Viscosity modifiers are typically either high viscosity oil or a polymeric fluid. They are usually un-additized and therefore dilute the original lubricant's additive concentration. This is bad for similar reasons stated above regarding changing the additive concentrations. By changing the formula concentrations, you may be changing performance aspects that were balanced in the original formula to an unbalanced concentration. These additives can be useful in a few circumstances though. They can be temporary fixes to compression issues and leaks, but even in fixing those problems, you may introduce unintended consequences such as engine efficiency and oil supply through the pump. If it is the only way to get the bike somewhere for maintenance, it might be the best option, but still not good for normal use. Polymer fluids in motorcycles add an increased risk. The increase in viscosity is usually very temporary because these polymers are not often shear stable. So once they shear, you have no increase in viscosity and a diluted bulk of oil. So it is a lose-lose in that situation. Cleaners come in two main varieties: detergent/dispersant additives and flushing compounds. Detergents and dispersants are similar to the performance additives in the sense that they are very surface active and can disrupt the surface active additives of the original oil to its detriment. Detergents, dispersants, anti-wear, and friction modifiers are carefully balanced in oil formulas and increasing the detergent concentration can prevent those other additives from interacting with the metal surfaces where they normally would. Generally speaking, unless you have an engine in absolutely terrible shape, with regard to sludge and carbon deposits, a good oil already has more than enough of these additives in it to do the job. Flushing compounds are usually some sort of high solvency fluid meant to dissolve sludge and carbon deposits in dirty engines. These can be useful in very dirty and neglected engines as long as care is taken not to overdo it. If an engine has a high level of sludge and deposits, it is possible to release too much all at once and cause unintended harm by blocking oil flow or forcing that bulk of contaminants into areas it can do harm. So an engine flush can be useful, but care should be taken when doing so. Inhibitors usually take the form of antioxidants. These are safer than some other additive types because they aren't generally surface active chemicals. They do still dilute the overall additive concentration somewhat and can possibly throw off the balance of a formula to produce worse overall performance though. There is less risk in using these types, but still, your typical oil should have more than enough antioxidant additives in it to begin with and there is rarely a need for more to be added. One final thing I'll cover here is the "magic" and "sci-fi" group of additives. These are the types that usually make some pretty unbelievable claims. They are usually unbelievable for a reason; because they are nonsense. The claims by the "manufacturers" (usually marketers, not chemical manufacturers) are very lofty, always unproven and supported by anecdotes, and typically backed up by lots of buzz words and little substance in any true technical sense. Typical claims are: large increases in power and efficiency rebuilding of metal surfaces from the inside out fixing leaks with no effect on any other property of the oil "nano" (This prefix above all other things makes me cringe and look closer at marketing claims. Yes I will admit I am prejudiced against "nano" materials in lubricants, but I will also be the first to admit it when I see one that is proven to actually work as advertised.) Typical results are: nothing harm benefits claimed with zero evidence lighter wallet and again, nothing For a motorcycle with a wet clutch, one thing to especially look out for with any additives is whether it will affect the clutch. Some additives are right up front with it and say not to use it with a wet clutch, but others are less obvious. So in summary, yes there are a few circumstances where benefit can be had from using an OTC additive. In most cases though, there's not much to gain and they either result in a performance decrease or no change at all.
  12. Alright so I'm probably just blind or have no clue what I'm doing but I can't seem to find plastics for DRZ400SM's. Can anyone help? I just don't dig my stock plastics all that much.
  13. Hey! New to forum and have quick question. I just started a 93 cr250 project and all the parts are original and some are a bit clapped out. The radiator needs to be replaced and I am wondering If the eBay radiators are worth it. Company names on ebay are, MSR Racing, Worley, GPI, and HR Racing etc. Are these radiators any good or am I stuck buying an expensive OEM unit? Should I buy a used OEM? No one really seems to make or carry them except the eBay stores. I also have a hard time trusting eBay purchases. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks -Peter
  14. Okay brand new here but found very little help online about MDX heads. All but they went out of business. Recently had head revalved by local shop which tried really really hard to cut the valve seats...alas, on MDX heads you cannot cut valve seats you have to replace them....? When I got this bike it was in a box...and I had to order most bolts and bits that were required for reassembly. During head work I noticed that there are two different sized shims on valve stems... ? I may be thick but this is my first moto rcycle engine build. Cannot remember different sized shims on the Honda marine 225 v6.... Little help with little engine please. Thanks
  15. Since there is not a direct bolt on Hydraulic clutch kit available for our bikes I decided to try it myself. I searched for many hours on eBay to find the parts that would match. I based the parts on the KTM 500EXC and found appropriate parts to make it work. @notoriousE-R-I-C was very helpful in working with me to get the proper knee for my ASV levers to activate the master cylinder (MC). You don't have to use the ASV if you choose to stick with the standard lever that comes with the MC (and save $79). THE PARTS Venhill Brake Cable - $60 (used for clutch) http://www.venhillusa.com/make-your-own-custom-brake-line-1.html?options=cart 90 bend end one 20 bend end two 1025mm long (40.5") - you could also use the 1000mm just not as much cable slack color black 10x1.25 bolt single 10x1.00 bolt single Hydraulic Master Cylinder - $42 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydraulic-Master-Cylinder-Clutch-Lever-For-KTM-EXC-EXC-F-SX-SX-F-SX-W-XC-W-XC-F/273670686821?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Actuator - $7 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Univesal-Motorcycle-Hydraulic-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Rod-Brake-Pump-red/202578451546?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20190212102350%26meid%3D1859f53985ac41c2982b356eddc936ae%26pid%3D100012%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D192535662073%26itm%3D202578451546&_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985 ASV F4 Levers - $79 (THIS IS OPTIONAL) https://asvinventions.com/products/off-road/f4-series-off-road/ CH2I knee SPECIFIC - Best way is to contact @notoriousE-R-I-C and have him go through Bob to get the right stuff (I did and Eric is fantastic!). Mineral Oil - $14 - Bought on Amazon TOTAL - $202 THE INSTALLATION These are the general steps i did to get mine installed and working. YMMV On the knee I needed to shave about 1-3mm off the flat portion that rests against the lever stop and take about 3mm off the rounded plunger end. This only applies to ASV knee and levers. The standard one will not need any modification. 1. remove exhaust header (i sent mine out for ceramic coating) 2. remove old clutch cable, perch and lever 3. file off the portion of the knee that will allow the lever to properly actuate the master cylinder 4. assemble the perch and levers to the master cylinder (MC) 5. check to make sure the lever actuates the MC - do this by sucking thorough the MC while pulling the lever. it should flow fine in the out position and cut off when the lever is pulled. If not then file off more of the knee until it works correctly 6. mount MC-Lever assembly to handlebar 7. route cable though the bike just as the other one was - zip tie it to the oil line between the exhaust ports to keep it out of the way 8. Mount cable 90 bend end to the MC and tighten fitting 9. mount actuator in existing cable mount from old clutch cable. Make sure to mount all the way back so that you have plenty of adjustment travel. 10. measure to length the actuator plunger rod (threaded portion), remove actuator and cut rod to length 11. thread on end nib and locking nut - use red thread locker to prevent it from moving 12. mount the nib in the clutch arm and then adjust the actuator and tighten in place for about 1-2mm of play 13. mount bottom end of cable to actuator and finger tighten the bolt. Mount the plug hole facing out and down for clearance of the header. 14. top MC with mineral oil and begin bleeding process. you will need to manually pull and push the actuator to help draw the mineral oil into the line Let me know if something is not clear or another picture is needed. Best of luck! THE PICTURES This is the flat portion that I had to shave off a little. Its the flat stop against the MC frame. Use the same bracket as the original clutch cable - no modification needed. Zip tie to Oil line to keep out of the header way Install out and down to clear header
  16. Good afternoon everyone, I have just bought an 07' KTM EXC, and one of the things keeping me from riding it regularly is the missing kickstand. Two of the support tabs for the OEM kickstand are missing. The previous owner attempted JB weld to no avail, and I was wondering what suggestions anyone else has! I do have eyelet side of the tabs, although they are in rough shape! Thanks!
  17. I have a 2001 husqvarna cr 125 that I have been building and I’m on the search for carbon fiber either factory parts or aftermarket. When I came across carbon fiber panels for a 2005-2006 sm450r and by just the look of them it seems as though they would fit. I asked the seller he indicated that they should fit but still said to double check/ask a forum. does anyone know if a 01 cr 125 has any compatible parts with a 05-06 sm450r?
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