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Found 12 results

  1. OK here goes... Picked up an 04 200 EXC few months back, needed some work to say the least, wont go into detail of all the things i've fixed on the bike just the current and most present issue I cant seem to fix... it is smoking IE blue smoke/lots of splooge to the point that at the end of a few hour's ride, it's out the tail pipe, running down the back and dripping onto the swing arm/rear break caliper and blue smoking quite a bit. When I first got it, it smoked more and smelled like shit. So first things first went to the carb, I live on the Oregon coast (elevation/temp reference) it's old dirty/stained but inside looks good, came with jetting pilot-45, main-178 needle: no idea what brand guessing stock in the 3rd clip, adjusted the float height due to it leaking gas when bike was upright no tilt with the gas on, Bought JD jet kit and running pilot-45, Main-185 and Needle is blue 3rd clip (JD's recommend specs for my bike @ my attitude). I have also replaced my Inner crankcase seal twice (First time I thought I messed up the O-ring so redid to make sure). I've rebuilt the top end/new piston (same thing) cleaned the PV, NOTE HERE that the PV has some issues, it seems to work fine but the screw that goes on top of the cylinder, down into the PV/flap would not come out preventing me from removing the flap to clean it, however it move's/ function's correctly, and has minimum clearance on both sides. One of the PV cover bolts that also works at the exhaust spring holder, was over torqued at some point (impact driver prob), or a result in a hard impact, the hole the bolt goes into is flailed/jared open a bit, not bad, not in the way of any function/ PV Gearing/hinge, it is not needed for that area to be air tight as their is also a breather that goes out of the PV so will not result in an "air leak" or loss in Top end PSI.... anyway... it's still smoking.... quite a bit.. now the bike itself rides fine I feel, the carb does puke gas when tilted over slightly/ hard to start (kick start) after flooded (like all bikes tho) I don't have any stalling/low idle issues outside of user error on clutch control. Honestly outside of it smoking as much as it does I would think nothing is wrong with it.. I have also tried raising the needle Clip to 2nd clip and it changed nothing at all, not even feel of the bike/response and have a new Spark plug I have yet to put on the bike. I have also "compromised" the crankcase Gasket (new one in the mail) while I was putting the Crankcase back on but that should do nothing with the exhaust just a little gear oil leak not relevant but throwing it out there. So I am at a loss... I've been toying with the idea of getting a Lectron carb... However... would hate to drop $400~$500 and the issue still persist, if it's a jetting/carb/float issue that would fix it and improve MPH/fuel consumption Or something with the PV? but I don't see the PV causing that much smoke/sploogee... I've ridden the bike normally/hard and nothing's happened but I don't want to keep pushing it and possibly clip the bike. Any ideas? "Oh help me 2 stroke community you're my only hope"
  2. Need help with my 03 Honda cr 250r... The bike takes a while to idle down to normal after letting go of the throttle, especially after riding with WOT and I press the clutch the rpms don't seem to go down until I come to a complete stop which seem really weird to me. Otherwise the bike runs great and the rpms drops normally when reving at idle. I have a FMF pipe and vforce 3 reeds. Main jet is 400 and the pilot jet is 40. What do you guys think could be the issue? I have tried adjusting the airscrew, cleaning the carb, checking float level, changing throttle cable, changing the sparkplug which had a good colour, it did not look like it was running too lean. So now I don't know what I should be looking at next. Maby a airleak? crankseals? exhaust gasket? what do you guys think?
  3. Just got done checking the valve clearance on my 2007 KX250F tonight. Valves were within spec, everything good. Put everything back together and one of my valve cover bolts won’t tighten up. It will thread in all the way, but it will not get tight! Kicked it over a few times, and on the compression stroke I can hear what sounds like air leaking from the valvetrain down into the generator/flywheel area. Started the bike, it runs just fine but the air noise is still there. Any idea on what this could be?
  4. Help, watch video with sound on. RPMs surge at idle and when holding a constant speed. I bought the bike last year as a project. The guy told me he had leaned out the carb and couldn't get it quite right. So I installed a basic carb kit with stock jetting and the bike steal runs like this. Seams to have great power at full throttle, but starts this surging after it warms up. I've had the V-Force reed cage off, the reeds looked OK'ish? (I,m just not sure what symptom a weak reed would cause) and checked for leaks all through the intake tract. Could it be a leak in the case halves? A weak reed? Thanx for your time and help!
  5. My bike (1999 RM125) has been suffering from a variety of symptoms: Low power Excessive smoke Spooge coming out of tailpipe Reving quite high on its own to where I have to hit the kill switch. No noticable powerband. Here's the work I put into the bike trying to fix this: Rebuilt/balanced crankshaft and connecting rod New top end (piston, ring, wrist pin, bearing) New main crank bearings New crank seals, left and right. From the symptoms I thought a new set of seals would do the trick, but it doesn't look like it has. Here is what I think it might be now: Leaking/flooded carb or bad float level, which mine is because its leaking. Bad reeds Power valve Air leak, but where? Out of the last list, do any of these make sense? I am so confused! I also don't know how much to twist the power valve adjustment knob. It looks like this. Can anyone help? I don't know what blown reeds sound/do. I also have a 168 main jet and ProCircuit, suggests that for my pipe I use a 165. Could this little difference be the cause?
  6. So I have a 2005 yz 125 that I purchased recently. It has a lot of new parts on it such as brand new exhaust and silencer and many other things. It also has vforce reeds in them. I was just doing some regular maintenance on it and stuff. Drained the old gas out and put new, cleaned the carb, checked the reeds. They were fine however I did notice that the gasket between the valve and the engine was tearing. Part of it actually teared off but I didn't have anything else to fix it with so I just put it back on, trying to seal it best I could. I did some research and saw that some people say these reeds tend to cause air leaks if silicone is not used. I started my bike up and it ran fine but sometimes when I gave it a short blip of throttle it would either die or idle would go down significantly. This was happening before I took the reed valve off to inspect it. There was a bog when I first got it but i set the air screw at 1.5 turns out and it went away. The compression on the bike isn't the greatest either, around 120 psi. It runs fine though, other than at idle its kind of weird. Bike pulls VERY hard though so I don't think it needs a top end or anything but I could be wrong. Just need to know what's causing this weird idle. Plug also is usually wet when I take it out. Jetting is at 141 main and 40 pilot. Taking this all into consideration, what could be the cause? Also some vent hoes are missing from the carb, don't know if that would affect it?
  7. I broke down and bought a decent condition four stroke to follow my son around on. My beloved 1987 CR500 was not working for a chase bike lol, and I was tired of working my old RM250, I thought hey, an old XR400R would be perfect and nearly zero maintenance, so I found an old one on CL, gave it a 5 min test ride and off I went. After about two rides it started a weird idle issue. I am having a really hard time figuring out the issue, any ideas would help??? My sons xr50 is ready but dad is failing... Bike started a bit hard, and would idle really high after you let off throttle from 1/4 throttle softly. If you popped the throttle it would then drop down and idle so low that if I wasn't moving in gear pushing the engine over it would die. I suspected an air leak or dirty carb, so I ordered a rebuild kit and rebuilt the carb. Same issue, no change. So I replaced the oring on the manifold and same issue, then I noticed a crack in the manifold and thought woohoo I found the issue!! I ordered a new manifold and an OEM oring. I put it all together and same thing! I can hear an air leak (suction) but cannot figure out where in the world it's coming from. I checked the carb side of the manifold as well, and dissasmbled it to make sure everything was seated right, exact same issue. Rebuilt carb, new manifold, new oring, still sucking air and idling so erratic that is dangerous to ride, completely unpredictable. One turn it will idle high and push through and the next it will fall on its face and nearly die. Any of you four stroke guru's have suggestions? Thanks, J.D.
  8. I bought this bike blown up for a decent price several months ago, had the cylinder replated and matched to the size of the new piston. I put a wiesco top end kit in, and I've never been able to get the bike to stop running like it has a tiny air leak. Whenever I open up the throttle then let off completely, the rpm's don't drop straight down to idle, it just take's its time pinging for a couple seconds then goes down to idle. Don't say is the throttle sticking because no, I've put all new throttle components on including the slide and the metering rod(has a Lectron Carb) and made sure it's all clean. The bike also has a Boyesen Rad valve and new reeds, FMF Gnarly Pipe and Turbinecore 2 silencer, and a Steahly Flywheel Weight. In the beginning I thought it was a bad crank seal because I first noticed it would only do it when the cluch was pulled in and I read on here that a bad crank seal can cause that, so I replaced the one on the clutch side first, which looked fine, then when I pulled the flywheel off and saw the seal was almost completely backed out. So I figure there's my issue, replaced it and put it back together, then ride it back and forth my parking lot a couple times and think its good, then get to the track that weekend and notice the same damn problem. I've replaced every gasket and seal I can get to without splitting the cases, but the issue just doesn't go away. The most recent thing I've done was a leak down test and at first it failed by leaking air through the gearbox vent tube, which I fixed by greasing the powevalve shafts with moly grease as you're supposed to, and after that it didn't leak any air after 30 mins of being pressurized, but still didnt fix the issue. So here I am hoping to hear any one else's opinion about it because I am sure stumped. The bike will start first kick every time and have all the power in the world and no other problems but this issue bothers me so much. I've also tried running higher octane fuel because I usually run 93 pump gas and it made no difference. Yes it has a new and clean air filter. Thought it might be a carb issue as well so I tried leaning it little by little and richening it but it just makes it run worse and still have the issue. Please help. In this video you can hear exactly what I mean, theres also a rattling sound you will hear which has currently stopped.
  9. So my new to me 2002 yz250 has started giving me problems. The bike is mostly stock except for an fmf gnarly and 182 main jet. Previous owner never really rode it so didn't do much maintenance if any on it. It ran great on my last ride but the other day I started it up without a problem but immediately noticed it was surging at idle almost like a miss and was idling just a tad high, lowering the idle would help but it was still surging. Took it for a ride down my street and noticed a hesitation from closed to 1/4 throttle but ran great past that. I went back home and tried messing with the air screw which didn't help the idle, it started dripping coolant out of the overflow so I decided to shut her off. Now I'm Amost certain it's an air leak and know I need to do a leak down test but I haven't gotten around to making one yet. This is only the 2nd 2stroke I have actually worked on so any advice would be great. I was hoping someone else has had similar symptoms and could point me in the right direction. Really hoping it's not my crank seals as the last case I split was such a headache and I never got it going again. Help me I'm poor!!!
  10. so i own a 2008 crf230f it runs fine but i was just riding around the paddock not going fast at all i was maybe riding for 2 mins max then I turned off the bike and there was a little pop not as loud as a backfire and when i tried to start it there was a noise that sounded like it was leaking air and now it wont start it has compression turns over just that hissing noise when you turn it over. any help would be appreciated .
  11. So my 1998 suzuki dr350 has not been idling correctly and popping whenever I let off the throttle and decelerate with the clutch out. I suspected an air leak from reading other forums and sprayed my pipes down with soapy water to look for leaks. The connection between the aftermarket supertrapp exhaust that the previous owner installed and the header is spewing enough air to send water flying off the pipe. It's on one specific side of the clamp. I tried to tighten the exhaust clamp but it didn't make a difference. I could maybe go tighter but I don't want to break anything? Then I tried taking the muffler off to get a better look but it is pretty stuck on and I'm not sure how to get it off without damaging it. I'm not even sure I need to get it off period so I stopped trying. I attached a picture below of the connection. Any help on what to try or what to do next would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance.
  12. hey guys ive got an 1993-95 rmx 250 and i was wondering if anyone could help on locating an air leak my bike had previously running rich fouling a lot of plugs. during one ride it started to not return to normal idle speed and had a high rpms would this be the crank seals on both sides if anyone could tell me some symptoms or ways of finding a leak that be great cheers
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