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Found 30 results

  1. Hi All, Recently I purchased a 2012 125sx from a friend dirt cheap. The only catch, the thing would occasionally seize up. I finally got around to slitting the cases on it and this is what I found. 30-40 loose ball bearings around 4-5mm in diameter, most of them on the transmission side(I gathered most of the ones i could find for the picture below). What I didn't find where any bearing races or any indication of where these may have come from. Now I have little experience with these machines, but common sense tells me I should have clear failure of multiple bearings to produce this many loose balls. While it is unlikely, someone could have vandalized this poor bike with a handful of BB's for a BBgun. My question to you fine folks: Where do you think these BBs came from? Am i missing something obvious? Thanks for your time. External link for pics: https://imgur.com/gallery/yR40O76
  2. Hello. My CRF450R 2011 have leaking (oil with coolant) from water pump drainage hole: I install new mechanical seal (7), oil seal (16) and new bearing (15): Filled new coolant and run my bike, all was fine, but after 15 minutes I got heavy coolant leaking: Disassembled again and noticed that "head" of mechanical seal is disconnected: What's can be wrong? Looks like problem with slight tightening (torque) (12 N/m) of impeller (part #6)? Sorry for my bad English.
  3. Hi all, Hoping someone can help. Basically I require the bush/bearing that sits in the crank arm on the small end. (the bush sleeve, bronze, brass thing, whatever you call it) Im based in the UK and Im having a hard time of finding a replacement. long story short, the bike acquired an oil leak while on a long journey and ended up running low on oil. I've stripped the engine, and everything is good apart from the piston and cylinder. I can't feel any play in the small end rod bush but it is marked and I'm changing it more for peace of mind than anything else. ps: I realise the bush maybe marked due to the softer material insert? I'm used to looking at cranks without this bush. (connecting rod) example
  4. How the hell are you supposed to get that thing out? I bought that overpriced motion pro tool, tried heating it and soaking it, and it still will not move a millimeter. Do I have to use an impact driver, or do I have to drill the peening out? Can I reuse the retainer once it is out? Can I just loctite it back in later, or should I re-peen it?
  5. I recently rebuilt my 650R's rear suspension bearings, as at least the upper shock bearing was completely toast and there were several milimeters play noticeable when lifting the swingarm at the rear axle bolt, accompanied by an explicit "clack" noise somewhere in rear suspension. So I replaced all of the bearings (swingarm, linkage, shock and bone) with new ones. I used quality product standardized bearings (because Honda really demands some $$$ for each of the 10 or so bearings) for all pivots except the lower shock bearing, as this is a special size which can only be ordered from Honda (19mm inner diameter). I also replaced the inner shafts/axles as they may have been worn significantly, I didn't/couldn't measure that. Replaced everything, did a quick test afterwards and still felt a lot of play at the rear axle. Maybe 2-3mm. Less than before, but definitely still there and still with a "clack". So I re-rolled the rebuild and found significant play in the lower shock bearing (the OEM Honda!!). I filmed the rotational play around the radial axis of the needle bearing (which should be close to 0 for needle bearings in my understanding), can be seen here: https://streamable.com/sp246l - again, this video was filmed when fully bolted down and with brand new OEM bearing and inner bearing ring. I did some research and found a lot of people saying that some play in rear suspension for the 650R is normal. Now I know why. I also inspected the old inner bearing ring and found significant wear with visible and sensible dents - really doesn't surprise me with that load of play out of the box. Long story short, I turned one of the bearing shafts of the other suspension bearings down to something between 19.05 and 19.1mm (from 20mm, didn't have the tools to measure it more exact) and cut it to length (also pressed in another steel tube to reduce the inner diameter from 12 to 10mm). Definitely was a pain in the ass as the material was brutally hard, I had to go by 1/20mm steps on my mini-lathe. In the end, the result was okay-ish: Now all I had left to do was to reassemble the suspension. My custom inner ring for the lower shock bearing went in stiffly and didn't run as smooth as before, for sure, but still okay for this application. The result can be seen here: https://streamable.com/b85g10 I am pretty satisfied with it, also the play felt when lifting the rear axle is almost gone, no clicking and clacking noticeable. Maybe Honda had a deeper thought regarding the play in this bearing I am not able to understand. But honestly, I just think Honda or their supplier for this custom bearing &%$#@!ed something up. 0.05-0.1mm off in a small sized bearing is not just some fabrication tolerance. Let me know your thoughts to that! Ride on, Graylack 🙂
  6. Im so mad i feel like i did it right but i dont understand how my spacer have a gap like that..
  7. Hello fellow riders. there is a trend that i see with Japanese brands which is they love to use same parts or designs on different bikes even from different manufacturers. Which in the end works for us customers. We can find same parts cheaper or more avaible but labeled for another bike. Esspecially in markets where DRZs are rare and/or discontinued (Europe etc) Also for bearings seals and o-rings. most of them are off the shelf products. i like to buy my parts from reputable manufacturers like skf-koyo-ariete when you buy those as a "kit" from a company that doesnt produce any of that stuff you often pay for package than product itself and theyre mostly inferior. So i will try to list the parts that i know compatible with drz400 and if you can chime in on this post with your knowledge i will add those as well. DRZ400SM --------------- -Front forks: Looks like same unit as on honda CR and suzuki rmz bikes (maybe sm travel is shorter) but i think fork internal spares are compatible. (Need confirmation on fork covers, not sure bottom lugs are same with every bike uses this shock. its near impossible to find fork covers for drz even in aftermarket plastics kits) Ariete"Ari" Seals 2007 ARI.117 size and model: DC4Y - 48 X 58,2 X 8,5/10,5 prtno. 51153-28H30 2007 ARI.126 size and model: Y-1 - 48 X 58,5/62 X 6/11,5 prtno. 51173-28H30 (Dust seal for ARI.117) 2005-2006 ARI.105 size and model: TC4 - 47 X 58 X 10 prtno. 51153-37F80 2005-2006 ARI.106 size and model: SG5 - 47 X 58,5/62 X 6/10,3 prtno. 51173-37F80 (Dust seal for ARI.105) (not sure if drz went to 48mm forks on 2007. tc4 model has one steel spring where as dc4y has 2, also different design on sealing surfaces. i assume its for choice of fork sticktion vs sealing power. Im attaching catalogue.) SKF seals Kit47S Kit47SHD (labeled as "Heavy Duty") SKF Mud Scrapers MS 47S Bushings SKTE/TI 47S -Front brake disc Same hole pattern as Yamaha wr and yz lines of bikes -Front brake pads: Theese exact calipers and pad design used all across dirtbikes from japan and even on gasgas and beta bikes.(too many to list) EBC FA185R for sintered or FA185X for carbon pads (thats the brand that i use you may contribute with other brands part number as well) -Front brake caliper rebuild kits for pretty much all Japanese dirt bikes of the era, can be further detailed. Rm125 Rm250 Rmz450 Rmx450 (2011-2017) dr650 are the ones for suzuki -Front master cylinder: "Road" type master cylinder with bigger reservoir than most dirt bikes. suzuki part fiche shows it has the same piston as intruder1400 cruiser and dr 125 and dr350 bikes -Radiator Louver Same with rm125(till 2008) and rm250 (till 2005) range can be more than that. checking on european resources. -Rear shock S and SM units have different part number. probably sm has shorter travel. since parts fiche doesnt show any inner parts cant confirm suzuki-wide compatibility. But its a pretty wide spread shock produced by showa and used on many bikes arround (with different lenghts of travel and valving etc) Needs more info on bushings and seals and o-rings. -Rear Sprocket Same bolt pattern as rmz ones. -Front sprocket Needs more info -Bearings Steering stem bearings: same across most Suzuki dirt bikes from 1991 to 2019 (specs are welcome to make it easier to find bearings from other manufacturers like skf) Engine bearings: (needs further info. while some bearings are standart off the shelf products some of them are produced just for suzuki with 1milimeters of difference than standart sized ones. thus fitting anything other than oem impossible. size info needed for standard bearings. Swing arm and wheel bearings: As most of us know drz sm uses old rm125 and rm250 swingarm. Thus shares bearings bushings and spacers. Detailed sizing info needed for aftermarket bearing compatibility. (same with wheel bearings) -Seals & O-rings Countershaft seal: 30x40x6mm Countershaft bushing o-ring: D:2.5,ID:21 Catalogs guides charts and manuals for drz : https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HtnVHyxvNvFAG_MEUJwffJwJThD-AIVn Contribitions are more than welcome !! have a good day and ride safe
  8. Good day I have been having a problem with my spark plugs. Every 0.5-1 hour of riding the bike will begin to miss fire due to the spark plug insulator being cracked just below the electrode. (exactly the same everytime) The plug has some oil on it as, expected, but nothing close to causing oil fouling. 2018 ktm 250 xcw (carb) nothing has changed with the bike, the problem suddenly started at random. I have been through roughly 8 plugs (ngk br7es) and it continues, bike runs perfectly with a new plug until the it breaks once again. All jetting seems good and as I said this problem started suddenly and randomly as the bike had been running without a single problem since I have had it. a new piston and rings were installed at 60 hours and the problem still continues exactly the same. Thanks in advanced 50:1 oil ratio (moterx) as I have always 55 hours on 1 plug and then 8 within less than 10 hours??? this isnt my spark plug but the damage to the white insulator is similar
  9. So I want to share a solution I discovered today for what seems to be a somewhat common issue. First a little background, I ride a 2007 YZ144 set up for the woods and I had recently started to develop some slack in the rear end, so I had a buddy help me look and sure enough it was moving in the linkage. So I just received my new bearings and went to press out all the old bearings today. Using all-thread, some thick washers, and some nuts I was able to press out all the bearings in the linkage reasonably quickly (once I figured out to use a smaller socket so I wasn't hitting the shoulder). But then I ran into a dead-end.. the connecting link, dog bone, wish bone etc. has a shoulder, or raised sleeve, between the two bearings preventing you from pushing them both out one side. Now from my understanding this isn't the case on every bike, some bikes don't have a shoulder and the bearings in the connecting link can both be pressed out one side but my service manual clearly showed a shoulder. After some searching nobody really had a great method for removing these bearings except for buying a blind bearing puller. So I bought a cheap blind bearing puller from Harbor Freight but this did not work for me, it was slightly too large. So back to the drawing board.. then I discovered this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YRA3nhzXX0 Essentially, these races can be hammered out from the opposite side using a concrete expansion anchor that cost $2.69 at my local Ace Hardware Store. The one I found and used was slightly different from the one shown in the above video but there are many different styles that would probably work. Mine was luckily just the right length where I didn't need to use all thread or anything. Just slide it through to the race on the opposite side and expand it once inside (remove the needles before hand by the way). Once I had it in there and expanded, a few solid hammer blows (with wood underneath) and it came right out. See below for pictures of how it works. I've seen the question asked on these forums several times with no solution other than "buy a blind bearing puller" so hopefully this helps some people out.
  10. I'm having a hard time getting these bearing cups out. Does anyone know how to get them out? I've been knocking on them with a hammer from the inside but they won't come out. Any ideas on how to get them out?
  11. Hello guys, Summer of 2018 I bought a 1987 XR600, after few kilometers the engine died. The cause was a stuck check-valve in the oilpump. So I decided to do a full engine rebuild. I have 90% of the left engine case ready. Crankshaft had a rebuild, new bearings. But when I had everything in, I was doubting about the hole where the clutchpushrod comes through. Mine was missing the “Guide lifter rod” Honda OEM: 15171-KN8-000 Looking on ebay 80% of the left engine cases where without the plate, but I wanted to do it correctly like the exploded view of CSMNL showed me in the “transmission “ section. So…….. : - Pulled the (new) bearinghousing out. - Placed the “guide lifter rod in it” - Placed another New ( ☹ ) bearinghousing in it. Then I started to have doubt about this part I put in, it was blocking the oilflow to the oiljet. So this couldn’t be right. I tried to look in the manuals or online but after 30+ years of XR nobody is talking about this part. The manuals also don’t explain or refer to this part. Looking at the oilflow diagram i'm worried the oiljet will not function. Oilflow diagram, engine oil will sort of exit the left crankcase and will return through the pushrod hole. Part what i paid for but now regret, it's the #1 . This forum is full of experts, so please let your knowledge be shared! Shall i get the part out, and go back to how it was?? Does anyone know more info about this part? Thanks, CJ Netherlands
  12. So i bought a 2010 husqvarna wr300 from a terrible owner, after doing a complete bottom end overhaul, was going to grease the swing arm bearings also then i discovered the bearings where in terrible condition rusted and the needles just fell right out. Honestly looked like they've never been greased. any tips on how to remove them? I've tried my bearing puller and a torch no luck and the threaded rod and socket method the lips of the bearing are broken and so small the socket keeps slipping out and couldn't get it budge. i have a press but i used it to get bearings out of SWINGARM, CUSHION RELAY it worked for one of the holes and the second hole the socket underneath i used to "catch the bearing" just straight up crushed into the aluminum housing and had to get a whole new one at least it came with all the bearing installed already... so I'm really trying to avoid messing up the swing arm using that. was thinking of using a dremel to slightly cut the bearing and pry it out anyonee have any suggestions?
  13. long story short 5th gear started making grinding noises (sounded like metal on metal). first to second was extremely difficult and notchy. bike was surging as well. decided to take apart the bike (stopped short of removing the motor and splitting the case), noticed that the countershaft sprocket was lose and that the clutch basket was making this noise. based on other youtube videos im assuming my crank shaft bearing is done? thanks in advance for any advice.
  14. Hey everyone. Its my first time ever touching a 2 stroke engine so sorry for my vocab. So I have a cr250 2002 that I recently purchased with a full motor with good trans and the top end taken off since it wasnt working properly. The case had a small whole where the crank spins on the bottom causing the fuel to leak out. The guy gave me the bike with the full engine and a extra taken apart same engine he had with the good casing. So my question is that I am going to be putting a full rebuild kit https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CR-250R-WISECO-ENGINE-REBUILD-KIT-CRANKSHAFT-PISTON-GASKETS-2002-2004/190811143511 its a weisco top and bottom end. The kit doesnt come with tranny bearings so should I replace them while I am there or should I be good the bearings spins ok with no weird movement. Also which one is better wiesco bottom end or a hot rods for 2 storkes. Thank you and stay safe out there!
  15. I was taking out my linkage to give it a clean and grease and then my needles fell out my bearing and this yellow stuff came out is it grease? Or something to hold the bearings in place 2016 KX 250F 20 Hours
  16. Recently bought a dirt bike. It was missing the rear wheel spacers, so I cut custom made ones and installed one to each side of the rear wheel. After doing this, the wheel has become extremely tight and does not move freely anymore in neutral and when the bike is off. If i were to ride maybe 10 hours on this, the bearings would become damaged because of how tight the wheel is. I was wondering how to relieve the tension in the wheel? I was thinking of installing an additional wheel spacer to the middle of the wheel hub so it’ll relieve the tension? Would this work?
  17. My 2012 klr 650 makes a hissing/ scraping noise when pushed forward it becomes louder when riding and sometimes makes a click consistent with the revolutions: It only has 6,000 miles on it. It does sit sometimes and collects sawdust like a motherf***** that I clean off with compressed air but sometimes I don’t clean as often as I should. So should I grease or be tightening anything?? This noise doesn’t need brakes applied to happen but it does get worse (the hissing/scraping) when brakes are applied.
  18. I have a 2003 Honda CR250. I am putting a new Hot Rods bottom end in it (Wiseco b.e. shit the bed). I am putting it all back together and I notice that there is no collar between the final drive gear on the crank and the bearings (final drive, primary drive whatever) and I am wondering Why? I have the book for this guy and it says when assembling this section it says to "place the collar (if equipped), then gear, then thrust washer and bolt in that order". When looking at the hot rods bearing, it is not sealed. So to me, no way that oil from transmission doesn't get in to bottom end if there is no collar there. I ordered a collar. But I am not so sure I did the right thing. So... is it necessary to have a collar on this install? Or did they leave them out? OR did the previous owner forget to put one in there when rebuilding bottom end?
  19. Has anyone rebuilt the starter motor on a 2016 2T? My bearing is shot and seal is leaking and brushes are worn right down to the leads. I cant find a rebuild kit for it. Bearing is easy 6002Z, Seal i will have to source as the stock didnt have a number. Not to hard to find. The tricky part is the brushes, i think i have found them. The 2017 Honda CRF450RX uses the same brand of starter and the brushes look the same. Anyone else find this to be true? https://www.servicehonda.com/oemparts/a/hon/57f29b3287a86606ec231ea2/starting-motor
  20. I'm currently in the middle of giving my two stroke motor a full overhaul because the big end rod bearing is worn. I'm just curious how many of you replace every single bearing in the engine while it's split or if you only replace them if they show signs of wear/damage?
  21. Thumpers, Can anyone confirm if the 2008 KTM 450 Intake rocker arm bearing will fit a 2006 model? Check the link below for the 2008 bearing link. http://makinaparts.com/lang-en/ktm/4153-59036061091-rocker-arm-roller-in-ex-ktm-exc-400-450-530-08-11.html
  22. Hey guys, I need some advice. I have a 2019 SM and I noticed some gnarly wear on my wheel spacers. I know it's soft metal, but these gouges are concerning. Can anyone tell me what could be causing this or if this is normal? I've heard mixed things so far, so I really need some expert advice. Bike rides perfectly fine, does not wobble at high speed. Rear wheel is torqued to 72 ft/lb and both bearings and spacers are always cleaned and regreased before being mounted. Wheel bearings look shiny and new and the rubber looks perfect. I routinely swap out the 17" street tires for 18/21 knobbies to go offroad, which is how I noticed this. The spacers do not interchange between wheelsets, so I'm positive they're the correct set for the SM rear wheel. Any help would be appreciated.
  23. Had my bike tapped out on pavement then she locked right up, held the clutch, came to a stop, loaded her up, top end looks perfect. Trying to find the next best bottom end to OEM standards.. I didn’t expect anything of this kind of nature but here we are and I believe it’s only the bottom bearing on my rod, Hope I can get some suggestions on getting parts and also is there any suggestions for tools (crankcase splitter, flywheel puller, bearing and seal driver) as I’m on my way to Edmonton tomorrow for a break the bank kind of day, any opinions are greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!!
  24. Just got my bike from the shop and had the top end rebuilt. Started it up in the parking lot and ran it till it got hot and the engine kind of bogged down and died. When I tried to crank it back up, I could stand on the kickstart and it would budge. The engine had locked up so I took it back in and the technician said it could be that the cam chain tensioner hadnt set yet. He took the side of the motor off and manually tuened the engine over and got it goin after it cooled off. I took it home and rode it for about 20 minites and it never died, but I shut it off to check something and it wouldnt start back up. The shop I had it at said it might also the a worn crankshaft bearing that expands when heated up and keeps the bike from turning over when hot. They said it wasnt covered under the warranty of the work that they just did. Is this true? Whats the process for fixing this and how much would it cost?
  25. Just got my oem bearings for the bottom end build of an xr80 and I just removed this bearing from the packaging. Couldn't help but to wonder weather this is a bad bearing or not because the balls rattle alot and it's noisy when I spin it. I took a video. Should I get a new one? Or is this normal?
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