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Found 34 results

  1. Hello. My CRF450R 2011 have leaking (oil with coolant) from water pump drainage hole: I install new mechanical seal (7), oil seal (16) and new bearing (15): Filled new coolant and run my bike, all was fine, but after 15 minutes I got heavy coolant leaking: Disassembled again and noticed that "head" of mechanical seal is disconnected: What's can be wrong? Looks like problem with slight tightening (torque) (12 N/m) of impeller (part #6)? Sorry for my bad English.
  2. I have the option of either installing SKF bearings or Koyo bearings . I was told by my local parts / Bearing retailer that SKF makes high quality brgs . Koyo have also earned a great reputation being a trusted brand as well . I'm seeking the opinions of the forum on this choice . Thanks for your input on this matter ! Application : 1984 YZ 250L
  3. Hello I was curious as to the best way to clean/clear out the bearings inside the case? My son was cleaning the case halves and he wasn't to careful about not getting crud inside the bearings. They have some grittiness now when spinning by hand. They were perfectly fine before this. I'm hoping they are salvageable. We split the case to do a new crank and crank bearings. Thank you for your help.
  4. Hello fellow riders. there is a trend that i see with Japanese brands which is they love to use same parts or designs on different bikes even from different manufacturers. Which in the end works for us customers. We can find same parts cheaper or more avaible but labeled for another bike. Esspecially in markets where DRZs are rare and/or discontinued (Europe etc) Also for bearings seals and o-rings. most of them are off the shelf products. i like to buy my parts from reputable manufacturers like skf-koyo-ariete when you buy those as a "kit" from a company that doesnt produce any of that stuff you often pay for package than product itself and theyre mostly inferior. So i will try to list the parts that i know compatible with drz400 and if you can chime in on this post with your knowledge i will add those as well. DRZ400SM --------------- -Front forks: Looks like same unit as on honda CR and suzuki rmz bikes (maybe sm travel is shorter) but i think fork internal spares are compatible. (Need confirmation on fork covers, not sure bottom lugs are same with every bike uses this shock. its near impossible to find fork covers for drz even in aftermarket plastics kits) Ariete"Ari" Seals 2007 ARI.117 size and model: DC4Y - 48 X 58,2 X 8,5/10,5 prtno. 51153-28H30 2007 ARI.126 size and model: Y-1 - 48 X 58,5/62 X 6/11,5 prtno. 51173-28H30 (Dust seal for ARI.117) 2005-2006 ARI.105 size and model: TC4 - 47 X 58 X 10 prtno. 51153-37F80 2005-2006 ARI.106 size and model: SG5 - 47 X 58,5/62 X 6/10,3 prtno. 51173-37F80 (Dust seal for ARI.105) (not sure if drz went to 48mm forks on 2007. tc4 model has one steel spring where as dc4y has 2, also different design on sealing surfaces. i assume its for choice of fork sticktion vs sealing power. Im attaching catalogue.) SKF seals Kit47S Kit47SHD (labeled as "Heavy Duty") SKF Mud Scrapers MS 47S Bushings SKTE/TI 47S -Front brake disc Same hole pattern as Yamaha wr and yz lines of bikes -Front brake pads: Theese exact calipers and pad design used all across dirtbikes from japan and even on gasgas and beta bikes.(too many to list) EBC FA185R for sintered or FA185X for carbon pads (thats the brand that i use you may contribute with other brands part number as well) -Front brake caliper rebuild kits for pretty much all Japanese dirt bikes of the era, can be further detailed. Rm125 Rm250 Rmz450 Rmx450 (2011-2017) dr650 are the ones for suzuki -Front master cylinder: "Road" type master cylinder with bigger reservoir than most dirt bikes. suzuki part fiche shows it has the same piston as intruder1400 cruiser and dr 125 and dr350 bikes -Radiator Louver Same with rm125(till 2008) and rm250 (till 2005) range can be more than that. checking on european resources. -Rear shock S and SM units have different part number. probably sm has shorter travel. since parts fiche doesnt show any inner parts cant confirm suzuki-wide compatibility. But its a pretty wide spread shock produced by showa and used on many bikes arround (with different lenghts of travel and valving etc) Needs more info on bushings and seals and o-rings. -Rear Sprocket Same bolt pattern as rmz ones. -Front sprocket Needs more info -Bearings Steering stem bearings: same across most Suzuki dirt bikes from 1991 to 2019 (specs are welcome to make it easier to find bearings from other manufacturers like skf) Engine bearings: (needs further info. while some bearings are standart off the shelf products some of them are produced just for suzuki with 1milimeters of difference than standart sized ones. thus fitting anything other than oem impossible. size info needed for standard bearings. Swing arm and wheel bearings: As most of us know drz sm uses old rm125 and rm250 swingarm. Thus shares bearings bushings and spacers. Detailed sizing info needed for aftermarket bearing compatibility. (same with wheel bearings) -Seals & O-rings Countershaft seal: 30x40x6mm Countershaft bushing o-ring: D:2.5,ID:21 Catalogs guides charts and manuals for drz : https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HtnVHyxvNvFAG_MEUJwffJwJThD-AIVn Contribitions are more than welcome !! have a good day and ride safe
  5. Was out for a short ride today to try out my new proshotcam gopro mount and on the way back, close to home luckily, the bike (2015 yz250f) acted like I accidentally clicked it into neutral. Thinking this was the case I pulled in the clutch and clicked down to first, and went to start going again and it revved with out moving, or barely moving if that, hard to tell I was in sand. So I shut off the bike and while there I tried to click it into a different gear or neutral which didn't work the first couple tries then it did but felt different than normal. When the bike was in gear it could be rolled without the clutch in but made a funny noise coming from the tranny area. The bike seemed fine in neutral so I started it. It idled fine and revved fine, all normal noises. Then upon clicking it into gear it started to make a funny noise in the tranny area again so I just shut it off right away. So it shifts into gears fine but will not engage the engine and the wheel, so it won't drive. I'm going to split the cases and see what the problem is, but was just wondering if anyone had any idea. Something wrong with the gears, shift fork, shift cam, or did the tranny bearings go? Thanks
  6. Hi, I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot. I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled. I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled? I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock. I must have been made of cheap pot-metal. Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism? Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome! Thanks!
  7. Hey guys I got a quick question for you guys. Which way do you install the crank bearings or should I say is there a wrong way? can they go in either way? Thank you
  8. Struggling a bit with my first transmission rebuild of a basket case 125 I picked up for cheap. Does it make a difference which way the crankshaft bearings are installed? Service Manual does not indicate a preference and pictures look like the markings on crank bearings face toward the center of the case. Clymer does have a brief mention of orientation and they claim that the bearings text should face towards outside of cases. In regards to mainshaft bearing I have the same question. Does the closed side face the center of the cases or towards the outside. Thanks for any help.
  9. Hello posting again about my 93 Kawasaki kx250 After disasembling the frame and suspension components to replace them, I was left with both outer races of the swingarm bearings still stuck in the swingarm. All the rest of the pieces of the bearing fell out when i pulled out the long bolt that held it to the frame. The issue is i cant seem to seperate the bearing races from the swingarm. Ive tried heat, pounding it out, using a impact socket of very similar diameter as the races to pound out and nothing has worked. Any suggestions?
  10. Hey guys, some of you may have been following my recent posts and know that I'm doing my first frame-up rebuild. Anyways, got to the Arm Relay a few days ago and the needle bearings were totally pooched. Tried everything I could to get the linkage bearing out, but no dice. Put it in the freezer, put a torch on it for about a minute or two, put the biggest socket i could find that would still pass through the hole, hammered the socket in then grabbed a piece of copper piping and banged it the rest of the way. Still needed a couple good taps, but they came out nonetheless. If you have a press, i would recommend that instead. Or at least put a rag down and hammer on the rag!! Damaged the part quite a bit.. good thing no one will see it 👍 Interested on how you guys have gotten those pesky bearings out!
  11. My '05 SM had it's rod bearing go out at 15,000 miles and scored my cylinder so its time for a rebuild. I already have the engine out and cases split, just getting ready to clean and inspect everything and spend lots of money. Bike as of now has 3x3, full Yosh RS3 Off-Road exhaust, and JD jet kit. The plan so far is to get: Hot Rods Crank Assembly Cylinder Works Big Bore Kit Cam Chain MCCT FCR 39 (hey why not) My main question is if I should replace the engine bearings or not. I feel like I should since I have the engine apart and plan not to have it again for a while, but its around $200 for main, transmission, counter balance, etc. I could not find anything about inspecting bearings aside from feeling smoothness. Is there anything that indicates I should replace bearings? Should they be fine? Or dont risk it and replace all since I had metal running through the oil? Let me know what you think along with any recommendations for the build. I plan on skipping out on the stroker to eliminate challenges with compression and reliability and skip out on cams for the sake of $$$.
  12. Hey guys, I know the sign of a bad bearing in your wheel is if it kinda has any play if I'm correct? I replaced my back wheel bearings and didn't worry about the front ones. I know this may just be a suspension problem but when I land from a wheelie or jump it is really stiff. Way more stiff then I've ever felt. It just feels like the wheel is stiff. Any ideas? I've already messed with tire pressure.
  13. So I want to share a solution I discovered today for what seems to be a somewhat common issue. First a little background, I ride a 2007 YZ144 set up for the woods and I had recently started to develop some slack in the rear end, so I had a buddy help me look and sure enough it was moving in the linkage. So I just received my new bearings and went to press out all the old bearings today. Using all-thread, some thick washers, and some nuts I was able to press out all the bearings in the linkage reasonably quickly (once I figured out to use a smaller socket so I wasn't hitting the shoulder). But then I ran into a dead-end.. the connecting link, dog bone, wish bone etc. has a shoulder, or raised sleeve, between the two bearings preventing you from pushing them both out one side. Now from my understanding this isn't the case on every bike, some bikes don't have a shoulder and the bearings in the connecting link can both be pressed out one side but my service manual clearly showed a shoulder. After some searching nobody really had a great method for removing these bearings except for buying a blind bearing puller. So I bought a cheap blind bearing puller from Harbor Freight but this did not work for me, it was slightly too large. So back to the drawing board.. then I discovered this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YRA3nhzXX0 Essentially, these races can be hammered out from the opposite side using a concrete expansion anchor that cost $2.69 at my local Ace Hardware Store. The one I found and used was slightly different from the one shown in the above video but there are many different styles that would probably work. Mine was luckily just the right length where I didn't need to use all thread or anything. Just slide it through to the race on the opposite side and expand it once inside (remove the needles before hand by the way). Once I had it in there and expanded, a few solid hammer blows (with wood underneath) and it came right out. See below for pictures of how it works. I've seen the question asked on these forums several times with no solution other than "buy a blind bearing puller" so hopefully this helps some people out.
  14. I have a new video out on replacing swingarm bearings on my 01 KX250. Hope it helps some of you.
  15. 60 hours back i did put new koyo bearings for crank,after some trans problem while im here i want to replace crank seals so i had to heat case and hammer down bearings.Should i replace them now?
  16. If I remove the linkage and/or swingarm so that I can get my fingers in there, is it possible to apply grease to those bearings without removing the bearings? Or said another way: Is it worth adding more grease without removing the bearings? Also, presume my 2018 YZ250X has only cartridge bearings and doesn’t have any of those needle bearings that just fall apart?
  17. Does anyone here know of any places that sell seals and or bearings by size or part number? I have a wheel with an aftermarket hub that requires seals and bearings with larger ODs than the OEM Yamaha hubs. In case it matters, the seal size is 25x42x7 (#30-4207) and the bearing size is 25x42x9. FortNine is cheaper to Canada than the wheel vendor in Pennsylvania but I was wondering if anyone knows of cheaper mail-order places in Canada or stores in Ontario. The seals can be generic/non-moto as long as they are the correct size and are "TC" style (double lip, single spring ring).
  18. Hi all- Bought a 84 xr250 with a blown head gasket cheap. Have fixed the head, but during fix noticed the camshaft bearings are worn pretty bad. No longer OEM available, none on ebay. Any aftermarket options? Thanks in advance. Eric
  19. My 2004 250EXC steams through the breather hole when I start it. It doesn't even last a 1 minute before it stops. Coolant level is down only slightly after a 60+ mile enduro. I use Evans waterless coolant. Has been like this for about half the season. I have taken off the head and checked the gaskets, they seem to seated properly. I can't find any cracks anywhere. Now my crank is showing signs of trouble, only 117 hours on the crank it the rod is moving side to side more than has in the past, more than it should probably, seems like the rod bearings are going bad already (no up and down play, just side to side). The crank will need replaced or rebuilt soon, too soon. All this tells me that radiator fluid is getting down in the bottom, unless I am wrong. I have replaced the water pump seal twice (although I think that would only allow water to get into the clutch, not the bottom end). What else could be happening? How can I find this leak? Is it a cracked head? Internal crack in cylinder? How do I find the source of this? Thanks.
  20. Hello all, I appreciate the help this forum has given me over the past couple of years. I recently picked up an '01 DRZ400s and decided to do the FCR carb swap. I feel pretty confident that I managed to read almost all of the valuable threads regarding the CV to FCR swaps on this forum and others. Being a fairly competent mechanic, I opted to pick up a local FCR MX off of a YFZ450 from Craigslist. I've rebuilt quite a few carbs and I feel like I now have a greater appreciation for why the experienced group recommends people go for the new FCR swap kit or something that's off of a validated running bike. There are so many moving parts inside of the FCRs that are prone to wear, the margin for issues can grow pretty large. It was my first time inside of one, so I know for the future. Regardless, I have a used MX that was worked on with heavy hands and I'll do my best to make it run for me. Moving parts are in pretty fair condition as far as I can tell, but I'm having some issues with the rollers on the slide. There are 3 rollers which are fixed with bearings and 1 that's removable. 2 fixed ones with bearings have a little drag and you can feel that the bearings have some wear. It's not terrible, but I'd like it sorted while it's opened up. Prior to replacing a slide, my questions are: Could these bearings be gently removed and replaced with the rollers that don't have bearings? https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/021_027_su.html Are there replacements for just the sealed bearings? I assume you'd have to take measurements and just find aftermarket ones, which is likely not worth it at all. Has anyone found any good tricks for cleaning these bearings? I believe they're sealed, which is generally a tough one to fix. I've heard of people soaking sealed bearings in solvent for 24 hours and then heating the bearing before spinning the solvent out. Thanks for your help,
  21. '06 CRF450r here. I have a rear Talon hub with excel rim. Bought the bike about 18 months ago and since day 1 have noticed a very slight side to side play in the rear wheel. If i grab the highest point and lowest point of the wheel with bike on stand and shake the wheel back and forth I get about a millimeter of play. I've had wheel bearings replaced twice, by two different mechanics. Spokes are tight. Everything seems like it is the way it's supposed to be but no matter what, the play still exists. It has never gotten better, never gotten worse. I've owned several bikes in my life and have NEVER experienced wheel play before; then again I've always ran OEM hubs only. Ideas/thoughts?
  22. I purchased a set of tusk impact wheels from ebay (a reputable seller) for my 2001 yz250. HOWEVER. after installing tubliss and a brand new tire i go to install the wheel and BEHOLD!!!! the bearings on the new tusk wheel are not the correct size for the axle of the yz. I called RMATV and confirmed that there has not been a wheel compatable with an 01yz250 made........ frustrating considering the $ spent so far. looking at the images below... does anyone think/know of a solution? id prefer to swap out the bearings in the tusk wheels for ones that will work... instead of sending the new wheels back.
  23. Hi people, I know very little on how to do what I want to do regards to putting together a 2nd hand ec 300 I'm making videos to entertain others and myself during the build Any help would be great in the weeks to come Here is the link to my 1st episode of the Gas Gas Ec 300 Build Series Enjoy https://youtu.be/aMTOXVhyikI
  24. I've got a 2013 Husqvarna WR 300 that has been giving me some trouble. I purchased the bike a few months ago knowing that I needed to throw in some new wheel bearings ASAP. After a ride or two I ordered some bearings (all balls), thew them in, and went out for a ride. The wheel seemed okay until I got it back into the shop on a stand and.... what do ya know... there was play again in the front wheel at the bearings (1/8 to 1/4 inch at the tire... not good.) After taking the wheel apart I realized the hub was cracked where the oil seal seats. With that being said, I ordered a new (slightly used hub) off eBay and transferred the rim and spokes over to the new hub. I just drove in some new bearings into the new hub, put the wheel on the bike, and somehow there is still around an 1/8 play in the wheel. I've checked everything I know to and am about ready to sell the thing. Does anyone have any advice or experience with this kind of issue?? Any help would be much appreciated!
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