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Found 18 results

  1. Hi all, I recently acquired this DRZ from a buddy who had recently installed a 470 bore and stroke kit. Besides the 3x3 air filter and full delkevic exhaust (holy loud) the carb and cams are stock besides jetting (unknown sizes). Me being me, I got into researching the FCR carbs after hearing about them and got my hands in a brand new FCR MX 41 from the netherlands. It's got TPS and hot start. I ordered the 3d printed carb adapter for the non removable bell and an OEM drz400e intake boot. I asked the seller about how it's jetted right now and this was his response: Pilot- 55 Main- 180 Starter- 85 Main air- 200 Pilot air- 100 Then this...leak/needle 0,0 / OBDVR @ 5/7 Not sure what that all means. Could use some direction on where to go with the jetting. Would like to order any other necessary parts before the carb shows up next week. Thanks in advance.
  2. I'm currently looking at moving with work to Andalucia in Spain, just across the water from Morocco and am looking at building a new DRZ-400 into a Rally bike to take with me. I looked at getting a KTM or Husky or other 450cc, but the maintenance would be a killer, so my intent would be to build a DRZ-400 engine under 450cc which can put out a reliable 50+HP. The only must have's on this beast would be kickstart, a capacity smaller than 450cc to stay in the lightweight class and ability to work in hot n high environments. I'm guessing I'd build it using a set of wide gears? I get that the DR Rally bike will be heavier and I'll have to change a lot of the components like brakes and suspension to make it onto the same playing field as a KTM 450 EXC, but the key for me, is having a bike which means I can actually focus on the riding during a 4/5 day event and self deploy to the event, meaning I can start racking up experience. As well as Morrocan based rallies, I'd be looking at competing in the Rally Albania and Greek rallies and maybe getting off-road in the Sierra Nevada's. Thumper Hive Mind, hit me with your opinions and suggestions on how to achieve this goal.
  3. Run 1 is a 2013 Drz400sm with 3x3 mod, FCR carb, and yoshi exhaust. (32.45 HP) Run 6 is my personal bike 2006 Drz400s (64.66 HP) -Myers Racing 94mm big bore kit -Myers Racing +4mm stroker crank -Myers Racing stage 3+ Cylinder head (Moldstar90 valve seats, Bronze valve guides, Stage 3 port) -Web cam (MR grind) -Ferrea valves (+1mm all 4) -Isotropic treatment on transmission -43.5mm FCR carb -K&N filter
  4. Time Left: 11 days and 8 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    This is an AMAZING deal. You'll get a rare YZ250 2 stroke, WITH A GREEN STICKER!!! It runs great. The top and bottom end have less than 50 hours on them (That's right, almost brand new crank and bearings). I recently pulled the top end apart and it has plenty of hours left on it. The 325 kit is insane. It adds tons of power throughout the entire range. It makes this bike a monster, incredibly fast. But because it's a 2 stroke you can easily control the low end power. The 325 kit also makes it more reliable, the top end can go a lot longer than stock. This thing will toast most 450's on the trail. This bike has almost too many upgrades to list. -ESR 325cc Kit -Rekluse Z-Start pro auto-clutch (never stalls!) -SSS suspension, fork and rear shock. The same stuff that's on the 2017's -EBC oversized front rotor -FMF exhaust with spark arrestor -Fastaway drop pegs -Scotts steering damper kit (not include damper) -Trail tech Kickstand -Brand new grips -Quick turn throttle -Brand new plastics -Upgraded carb, tuned and leaned out for the 325 kit -Body armor - Aluminum Skid plate -Carbon fiber fork upper guards -Engine hour meter (recently installed) -Fresh tires Easily $2000 in upgrades. Comes with lots of Extras too! -2005 YZF fork -Spare bottom end -New tire -And a big box of other extra parts Downsides: Throttle is a little sticky, probably needs a new cable. price is Obo more pics here https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/mcy/6281377983.html

    $2,000.00

  5. Ok this is my first post so please give me a break if I am doing something wrong. I have a 2009 Drz400sm I just picked up recently. It has fmf exhaust, big bore, hot cams, fcr carb, 3x3 mod, raptor petcock, and i'm sure a few other things. I was aware that the bike had a bad idle when I bought it and it would die if you didn't keep the revs up with the clutch in. I fixed the loose throttle cables and it seemed to clear the idle issue up for the first ride after that. Soon after that it started to have a bad idle again. Now the bike will not even start. It turns over but just will not start. I tried to hook up a battery box to the battery and that didn't help. The battery is charged, the spark plug is new and sparking, the air filter looks fine and it seems like it may actually be getting too much fuel because there was fuel on the plug. It was having some overheating issues when it was running and I checked the coolant to see there wasn't much in there. Filled it up with new coolant. I drained the oil the next day and it was creamy colored. I imagine that it was coolant in the oil because the coolant level dropped significantly in the radiator. I checked the valve clearance and intake are over spec slightly. It measured .18mm (.15mm is max spec for hot cam). The exhaust clearance is in spec. I know the intake is a bit out of spec but I don't think that is why the bike isn't starting. Between the milky oil, the rough idle, not starting, valves out of spec, i'm honestly not even sure where to start with finding the issue. I haven't torn apart the carb yet because the guy I got it from said he cleaned it but I am wondering about the jets that are being used. Please if anyone could help me out some it would be greatly appreciated. The starter will turn all day but the motor does not want to turn on.
  6. Hello My son's klx110 is running rough. It has a 143cc big bore kit...also has the bigger carb after the big bore kit was put on. Ran great. After that the big bore froze up. We put on a new big bore kit with the upgraded race head. Since then I have had an issue dialing in the carb. I have tried moving the clip and everything. A mechanic got it as close as he could...also tried different jets but would only run well without the air filter on. At one point it ran really well but at idle if you gave it some gas it would bog down....not sure what the setting were at that point. Do I need a bigger carb? If so, which one? Any other advice or recommendations? Thanks
  7. Friend has a 2014 ajp Pr3 which has an electric start zongshen 233 cc 5 speed engine in it,he loves itespecially the low seat height for his short stature. Only bitch is its slow as hell. Can he use top end performance honda crf230 topend parts,or rev box,carb,??? No room for bigger carb i am told as gas tank is behind engine. I have not seen bike as he lives 200 miles away,but would like to speed it up over winter[Northern Vermont winters are verrry long] Any input or info would be greatly appreciated.
  8. I found a Magnum 290 kit on ebay for my 09 yz250f; thought I'd give it a try. It was $400, figured that's not too bad for cylinder, piston, and gaskets. Advice #1: After you take your current piston off; put the new jug on with the water jacket dowel and the two steel dowels in place to make sure everything is going to fit right. Make sure the castings are perfect so it fits down nicely and flat. Mine were a bit too tight in one spot, and I had to dremel just a tiny bit off a steel dowel hole edge for a good fit. Advice #2: Be super careful about stuff dropping into the motor, take your time, cover the motor very well. Advice #3: The four head bolts? they are different lengths, note which goes where. Advice #4: Put the exhaust cam on first, then the intake. Advice #5: Measure your valve clearances as you take your motor apart. Otherwise you have to put it together again, just to see you would rather have shimmed. Advice #6: Put those metal clips into the cam caps, then put the cams into the caps (carefully getting the cams into the clip properly), then hold the cams as you put them in the head Power does seem to be increased everywhere. It's a noticeable increase. I had heard that it signs off hardcore up top; maybe I didn't rev the crap out of it because it was the break-in ride, but I didn't feel that. Is it a mini 450? Is it a 450 slayer? No, I mean, in the right hands it could be; but a 450 is still faster and even if you can be even with them for a stretch, then you have to shift. Mine doesn't feel as fast as a Husqvarna 350. It feels like a strong 250f, but still a 250f. Maybe now you can be one gear tall coming out of a corner, but not almost any gear tall like on a 450. The increase is noticeable and welcome though. It felt strong and I liked how it ran. I recommend this kit, it felt great.
  9. Time Left: 28 days and 12 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    For your riding pleasure her is a great old really fun hard to find with these mods. 1987 Husqvarna WR430 2 stroke that has been modified by a company that was in operation in Arizona a few years back. They where the top of the heap Husky guys from what I'm told.It now has Susuki Inverted forks,revalved for 190-200lbs rider,same for the Olins rear shock.A better I feel look and Moto-X look. The bike was a eyesore when I got it. Since then I have returned it to a fun,blast from the past that is ready for its next life. It had been parked in the "original" owners back yard for a few years. In that time the Arizona sun had done it share of cooking some of the plastics. It took a bit of looking but I found some OEM radiator shrouds.They were far from looking as good as they do now,but some effort and elbow grease got them looking pretty nice,from old brown ones. It didn't run and the owner couldn't remember if it ran or not. He said it did when he parked it,because his friend crashed on his own bike breaking a few bones. So he thought he should pack it in himself. Well after getting it home and doing all the cleaning carbs,gear oil changes,lubing the top and bottom end,etc. I was ready to give it a kick to get it going. I had checked compression before I purchased it and it lived up to its big bore pressure. So I dawned my riding boot Left side only and gave it a few kicks to check for spark,Nothing!Hmmm more on this story if you're interested. But for now It's all ready to go. New grips,rear brakes,chain,stickers,oils,front tire(Dunlap),seat cover,cr430 SEM ignition/coil,brake fluid. I'd like to see if anyone has any offers on the bike I feel it's worth more than market value???? It's rare,very powerful,a great draw at the races,and just a fun ride pretty much anywhere I go. I will put up fresh pics with new seat and cosmetics soon.

    $1,800.00

  10. So I have done lots of searching but can't seem to turn up the info I am looking for. So after a 25,000 mile run from Deadhorse, AK to Yaviza, Panama and back to my home in Alaska on a Rally Raid Level 3 CB500X..... I am now going back to my roots and picked up a 2004 DRZ 400 with about 2900 miles on it. Lots of reasons for it but the cut it short I know I was looking for something different for the rest of the ride around the globe. So my plan is to build a bombproof DRZ that can take me everywhere and back. To that effect I have already ordered an Athena 440 kit, will be going with the Hotrods +4mm crank kit, and the ACT wide ratio gears. Where my plan differs from most of the other power mongers is that I want to keep the compression low enough to run low regular fuel without going nuclear. That type of tuning runs a bit contrary to everything I can find info on. So who out there has done a low comp 470? Since the plan is a mild state of tune rather than the usual fire breather everyone else is trying to build does anyone have a good recipe for the spacer or gaskets to keep the compression low enough? Cams for the milder state of tune? FCR 39 going to be enough carb or should I be looking to the 41? My engine building has been limited to old air-cooled 4 cylinders and for max grunt not longevity on crap fuel. Lots more will be done to the bike but the motor spec is one of the ones leaving me a little out in the cold. Want the grunt of a bigger motor to pull the wide gears but not the short life of a rocket ship. Thanks for the help.
  11. Hi TT, Has anyone had experience with the bigger CC kits before? Im installing a Athena 480CC big bore kit on my WR450 and im wondering if a jetting upgrade is required or if i can just tweak the air/fuel mixture? Any help is appreciated. Thanks Ben
  12. Alright good news. Had saved up a bunch of money expecting to owe a significant amount for taxes.. Turns out I don't owe nearly as much!! Time to put the money to good use and build a nice performance motor for my drz. I am planning on doing a full 470 kit from ebay (Stage 2 cams, +4mm Crank, 94mm Piston/Jug) Has anybody else done this big of a displacement change? If so how bad will this hurt my reliability? I know it wont be nearly as reliable as stock, obviously.. just wanted to get a few opinions before I jump into ordering everything. Also, if I follow through with it I would be doing the MX39 carb swap. I am running a new Yoshi RS-2 full system, but will swap to MRD if it will make a significant difference. Thank you guys, Brad
  13. Time Left: 18 days and 12 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Race Ready The sale includes a FULL REVALVE from Factory Connection in Corona CA for the new riders ht., wt.,and ability. Currently setup for a 55 yo 145lb Expert Motocross This bike has been professionally maintained since I've owned it I did every top end valve job and crank rebuild myself. I've always kept everything in spec, have used only Hondaline HP4S Engine Oil and Honda HP 85wt Transmission Oil changed religiously. I've changed all the motor bearings and seals twice, the most recent time I also had the crank rebuilt 10 hours ago, when I also replaced the Athena Cylinder, piston and cam chain. Bottom fork tubes and shock body replaced by Factory Connection during rebuild last year. Motor Mods include Athena 490cc Big Bore Kit (10hours), Hotcams Stage 2 Cam, FMF Full Ti Mega Bomb Pipe, Steahly Flywheel Weight, RD Racing Power Bowl, RD Racing Flex Fuel Screw A serious Vet weapon, I have never felt under gunned, in fact with the big bore kit just the opposite I always feel I have more power than anyone else. This bike is so easy to ride with the heavy flywheel, and the suspension is very balanced and dialed with the Applied Triple Clamps and Devol adjustable Pullrod dialed in. I have literally never ridden a better handling bike and really hate to part with this baby especially after freshening everything up recently, but I need the cash for a new business. I have receipts and a meticulous 10 year maintenance log. Text or call Paul at (nine four nine)9 three three- 2758 also includes: Scotts (Ohlins) Low Mount Steering Stabilizer (recently rebuild) CAN REMOVE FOR CHEAPER PRICE Brand New lower fork tubes New Shock Body Athena BigBore Cylinder 489cc (10 hours) Athena BigBore Piston (10 hours) Stealy 9oz? Flywheel Wt. HotCam Stage 2 Cam FMF Ti MegaBomb Header FMF Ti Factory 4.1 Muffler ELine Carbon Fiber Pipe Guard New Cam Chain (10 hours) Tokyo Mods Carb Sump Bolt Tokyo Mods Light Throttle Spring Tokyo Mods Hot Start Collar Tokyo Mods Carb Hose Kit Tokyo Mods Engine Oil Vent Kit RD Racing Power Bowl RD Racing Flex Fuel Screw Boyesen X-Wing LoudMouth AirBox Mod New TwinAir Filters (2) Factory Connection Suspension (Re-Valve to buyers weight included in sale) Factory Connection Rear Spring Bearing Devol Adjustable Pull Rod New SKF Fork Seals SKF Wheel Bearing Seals Wheel Bearings (10 hours new) Applied 20mm offset Triple Clamps (blue) CycraLite Front Fender New Cycra DX Handguards ASV C5 Clutch Lever with Hotstart ASV C5 Front Brake Lever with Rotator Clamp MotoStuff Pro Lite Steel Braided Front and Rear Brake Lines IRP Aluminum Billet Master Cyl./Caliper Banjo Bolts (blue) Braking 270mm BatFly Front Brake Disk NueTech Tubliss Tire System New Renthal Kevlar Half Waffle Grips Motion Pro Titan Throttle Tube New OEM Throttle Cable New Motion Pro T3 Terminator Clutch Cable Zeta Alum. Billet Clutch Cable Holder (red) Zeta Alum. Billet front Brake Cable Holder (blue) Alum. Billet Engine Plugs and Oil Fill Caps (blue) Cycra Stadium Front Number Plate Works Connection Holeshot Device Works Connection Hour Meter Works Connection Radiator Guards Works Connection Skid Plate Works Connection Engine Guards Reinforced OEM Radiators Dr. D Radiator Lowering Kit CV4 High Pressure Radiator Cap Mishimoto Silicone Radiator Hoses (eliminates Y) (blue) Boyesen SuperCooler Water Pump Kit Fastway Wide Footpegs New OEM Clutch Springs New OEM Clutch Plates Hinson Clutch Cover Hinson Clutch Basket Hinson Clutch Pressure Plate Hammerhead Shifter Hammerhead Rear Brake Pedal Hammerhead Countershaft Case Saver Renthal TwinRing Rear Sprocket Renthal Lite Front Sprocket TM Designworks Chain Guide TM Designworks Swingarm Protector TM Designworks Chain Roller Throttle Jockey Seat Cover

    $3,200.00

  14. Greets to all. I'm about to install an Athena BB kit on my S. Kit comes with a single layer base gasket an gives 12.3:1 compression ratio. I've been thinking about bumping up the compression a bit. No budget available for a hi-comp piston, so I was thinking of machining the cylinder face down a couple of tenths of a millimeter. I have access to machinery needed for the task, so cost is out of the question. Will check piston-to-deck height and all before proceeding. My main concern is the nikasil coating, actually the point it "finishes" at the top of the bore. There's a chamfer right there, measures over half a mm high, so could easily be ok. But I need confirmation, wouldn't want to ruin my BB. Anyone done that before? Any problems with it? Thanks in advance. Lefteris.
  15. Doing my traditional obsessive searching, I ran across the Niche 434 kit for DRZ for a very low price of $245 USD, http://partdiscounter.com/cylinder-kit-drz-ltx-kfx.html I see some old inquiries on Thumpertalk about this, but nothing recent. Anyone have more recent information/experience with this kit?
  16. I currently have a 2015 DRZ400S with 5k miles on it. I have the 39mm FCR carb installed, the airbox mod, and the MRD exhaust. I am looking to do the big bore kit with a set of hot cams to probably finish off the mods that I plan to do on the bike. My question is, with this bike at this mileage, is it necessary to replace or change anything else when doing a BB kit and cams? or is the bike still new enough and low mileage to get away with just bolting the kit and cams on? I just want to do it safely without risking anything, but also do not want to waste money on things I dont need. Thanks in advance for the input!
  17. So my son was riding his 2004 CRF80F around yesterday and had a major mechanical failure. I am unsure of the issue so I am going to post it here before I start the tear-down tomorrow. He was riding around hauling balls, as usual, and he said he heard a metal "clank" noise from the engine. Being the 14 year old that he is he kept ripping it and a couple of minutes later went OTB. The bike starts and runs but wont shift at all and when I clutch in and push it the bike only rolls a couple of feet before the rear wheel locks up. I have never experienced anything like this so any assistance would be appreciated. Unless I can spot something externally during the initial stages or get some definitive answer on here I will begin the tear down tomorrow. I will keep the thread updated on my progress so maybe it will help someone in the future. Thanks in advance, Skin
  18. NOT ANOTHER BIG BORE QUESTION!!! Ok, ive searched high and low but cant seem to find concrete answers. I have a 97 Cr125 that been sleeved and bored twice over already. i blew the top end at the end of summer and am getting around to the maintenance. I plan on sending the top end into Millennium Technologies to have it bored out and the powervalves gone through. My question is... how big can i go? I have found a 56mm overbore kit on ebay.. will this be too big? its cheaper to buy thr rebuild kit myself and just send them the top end for machine workThanks for the read and the help