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Found 50 results

  1. Okay guys, first post on the forum, hope I can get some help. I have a 1998 ktm 250sx and the bike runs great, starts first kick, idles fine and is very responsive and hits the power band great, but when I'm wot in the power band it bogs, if I let off the throttle slightly it will hesitate for a moment and then make it's way into higher rpms. This only happens at wot but is very annoying. Any help would be great thanks! I have replaced the gaskets on both side cases, adjusted the carb and still have no luck
  2. A 1994 KX125... This is my first 2-stroke (and a new purchase for me), i was told by the previous owner that the oil from the exhaust was a sign that it needed a new piston ring. Replaced the piston and ring and now the bike bogs down bad from a stop/very low speed while in first gear. New piston and ring (Wiseco spec sized for the year but is flat while the original one was crowned) Cleaned the carb (42 pilot jet with a 158 main jet) 800' above sea level Reeds look great Repacked the FMF silencer (still have oil out the exhaust so I know its running rich) I just can't figure out what else to do or check. The bike has great pull and power in the upper RPM range of first and all through the rest of the gears it pulls strong. Just looking for something that I might be missing. I have been searching this forum along with others for an answer to the issue I am having but have been unlucking in finding any leads...
  3. Backstory: 2003 cr125 piston siezed during mud race. cylinder replated, fresh top end, all back together and bike rips well but looses coolant out exhaust. Fast forward 3 years and 3 complete gasket sets later and found out that the replated cylinder had a crack behind the inner power valve axle stay, so it was loosing coolant out the power valve. Now: new oem cylinder and head, fresh wiseco piston, carb rebuild, air filter, fresh silencer packing, and now the bike starts and runs well but bogs soooo badly off idle and when i crack it WOT. feels like its misfiring. it rolls on power okay if i roll onto the throttle slowly. Im at a loss. So far I have changed out spark plug, checked correct piston orientation, checked correct PV operation, Jetting is currently 410 main, 37.5 pilot, needle 2nd cip, AS 1.5 out. I don't know what to do with this bike. Can anybody suggest anything that I haven't tried yet? I want to get this bike back on the trail
  4. Hi all i have a 2016 ktm 125 sx with 3 hours on and it has n weird bogging issue. It runs great with lots of power until i dont ride on the pipe for about a minute, then i have to clear it up again. Or it would just platter until it cleans itself. please guys any advice would help, this is driving me crazie.
  5. Hi folks, I recently purchased a Honda CR80 from a friend. It was sitting in a shed for 3 years and was beat pretty hard in the past I believe. I took the opportunity to get my first bike for cheap knowing I would have to fork out some cash on it. The main issue I found was that the crankshaft seal on the clutch case side was shot so I replaced it the bike started to run ( did not even idle when I got it). The issue I am having now is that when at WOT it revs high but then start to bog down it only happens on WOT. The lower RPM range is fairly clean and responsive but if i go WOT it goes up and then falls off hard. I have check the main jet, primary jet and float bowl height as well. Any ideas you guys can come up with will be much appreciated !
  6. This is my first post. I have been reading the forums since I picked up my 17 SM in January. The bike has the 3x3 mod, JD jet kit 160 main blue needle 4th position 25 pilot 2.5 turns on the fuel screw, and full rs2 exhaust at sea level (gulf coast). My issue was I pulled the carb yesterday to install an fcr only to realize that the company didn't send the intake boot with the fcr. So I decided to put everything back together so I could at least ride a little. Note prior it was running perfect. Got everything together and went for a ride. If I was in 4th or 5th doing over 50 and went wot then it would buck and sputter otherwise it ran ok. Long story short, I read and tried everything suggested on here. Nothing worked, but last night I found an answer buried in a post about capping off the vacuum line to the petcock and carb. Once I done that the bike ran perfect. So obviously there was a small vacuum leak at wot where the line was on the petcock. The line was on the petcock like normal but im guessing it stretched just enough from removing several times. Just wanted to share with everyone because I was scratching my head since all I did was pull the carb off and put it back on several times.
  7. I was out for a ride the other night, just puttering around the local back roads (what I mostly do) on my 2017 DRZ400S. The bike is stock with the exception of the 3x3 mod and JD Jetting kit (their recommended settings). The bike had been running very well. I had sorted out the few issues after doing the 3x3 mod and was enjoying the bike a great deal. Most of the way around the loop I was riding (only about 45km) I pulled off a side road onto a minor highway - no traffic, so I ripped up through the first few gears (bouncing off the rev limiter once) before slowing to about 90km/h. While downshifting for an upcoming traffic circle the engine did not "blip" like I expected, it sort of bogged. As long as the revs stayed up I was able to accelerate (modestly by this time). At this point I'm still beyond pushing distance from home. I managed to make the lights and didn't need a full stop until almost home. I stalled coming from a stop and found that if I rolled the throttle on "very" gently I could get moving and stay moving. At home in the driveway I confirmed the engine would die if the throttle was opened from idle with any sort of enthusiasm, and then seemed reluctant to start again. Before I start pulling things apart I though I'd ask if anyone out there had similar experiences. Bike is 2017 S, stock exhaust, 3x3 with JD's kit at their recom. settings - ran very well until that WOT rip. Gas is local Chevron 94. (though I did tank up at the start of the ride, just over a half a tank. Gas in tank was last fall's gas (94 again) with stabilizer added when parked for winter in November. I've never had issues with this suppliers gas before. Last bog issue was just after the jetting upgrade. I buggered the plastic needle retaining clip in the slide (a $110 lesson). A loosely bouncing needle isn't a good thing. At that time, the issue made itself known very soon after I'd put everything back together. I've put a fair number of kilometers on since fixing that issue so I'm not immediately inclined to think it's the same thing. (unless I "almost" bodged it again and it's taken until now for a weakened retainer to toast itself...?) I will check stator/battery/RR to rule out electrical issues before I pull the carb to see if it rattles. If you read this far, many thanks!
  8. My 2008 wr250x has recently been struggling a bit!!! ?There is some odd sort of throttle lag/bog which seems to be regularly prevalent when i put the bike into gear and apply throttle(or blip throttle) or when i am rev-matching/downshifting. I have also noticed at times (quite randomly) if i am accelerating on the harder side the bike struggles and acts like it is going to cut out/looses power. When i realease the throttle it is fine again. My mods are as followed; fmf q4, fmf megabomb header, fmf programmer, airbox flap glued closed. I have played a lot with my fmf programmer settings and have still had no luck. I have also tried adjusting the clutch cable (for whatever reason) and that has also had no effect. Almost 2000 miles ago i took apart the whole motor replacing the gaskets, piston rings, etc. I have not yet tried unplugging the fmf programmer or done a compression test, but those are two things i would like to try. I have also considered the clutch needing to be replaced, but i don’t see how that problem would affect the throttle lag/bog. Any advice is greatly appreciated!! jay #SOS
  9. HI, I am new, looked on this forum but did not see a definite answer, I have a zongshen Bull 250 and one day I was riding and suddenly the bike lost all power and now will not rev more than half of max rpm, it acts like it has a rev limiter so low, and it pops and maybe smokes little black, i replaced the carb so it is not an issue there and then noticed after a day that it has low compression on the kickstarter and there is a sound in the air filter/box when i kick it over so i figured maybe a cam chain skipped a tooth and now the timing is off and intake is maybe open slightly so i am trying to adjust the valves but I cannot find the T mark, there are random letters like SM, and then there are 2 lines that match up with the marking on the crank case but no letter T for Top dead center. How are the markings on the cam sprocket supposed to sit relative to the T mark for Top dead center? .. I don"t know anymore where to start and what to do, can someone guide me through valve adjustment and what the clearences should be? I think the engine is CB250, it is air cooled and it is SOHC. THANK YOU!
  10. 2013 KTM EXCF 350 Replaced spark plug cap after experiencing sputter/ cutting out after the engine got warmed up. Now it idles and runs strong but will start to cut out if I give it full throttle. I can get to high RPM’s as long as I only give it 50-70% throttle. It’s almost like I hit the rev limiter and then it chokes. It takes a few seconds to recover and it will go again.
  11. My buddy has a 2001 wr250f that bogs a little when you punch the throttle. Upon tearing down the carb we found that the AP nozzle was completely plugged off. Tried to clean it but to no avail, ended up using a little drill bit to clear it out. Long story short I need to buy a new AP nozzle but the part doesn’t seem to exist. doesn’t show up in any parts diagrams and can’t seem to find it anywhere. If someone could find one that would be great!
  12. let me start off by saying, that i am a long time reader, but have never posted until today. I HAVE SEARCHED EXTENSIVELY. all over. i have done multiple fixes and changes. but, here we go... I road race in a mini bike series. kx65's are ultra popular and competitive due to their cheapness, speed and weight. I have a kx65, my frineds have kx65's, everyone has kx65's! lol My kx65 however seems to have no top end power. I can run lap times close to 2 seconds faster on our endurance bike (which i dont own), and I can always really feel the top end pull on it. Both bikes are modded exactly the same. except one runs race gas, mine does not. I have ridden other peoples kx65's and their bikes also make more top end power than mine does. What its doing is it feels like the top end just flattens out and tapers off right when it should be at peak power. It doesnt bog, it doesnt stutter, it just flattens out and makes no power where there should be 2-4k rpms of more power band. MODS MADE TO BIKE -wiseco 46.5mm piston (72cc), GENUINE keihin pwk28 carb - 132-148 main tested. float level set to factory specs, 42 pilot is golden, clip set to third position, off idle is beautiful, mid is great and will power wheelie shifting from first to second. vforce 3 carbon reeds. moose intake spacer, dent free factory expansion chamber, brand new pro circuit pipe. -crank, piston, and main bearings have 10 hours on them. rings have maybe 1 hour on them, plug color with WOT plug chops in fourth are kinda ehhh, not dark, but not light, but i can never jet it to the point of it being brown on the main jet. i have as of today ordered a 130 main jet to try even leaner settings...color largely remains the same no matter what, power is flatter with richer jetting things ive done to try and recitfy this issue -new crank seals, split case and resealed it, new piston rings, performed leak down test, held pressure except for at the plugs on the leak down tester. confirmed with soapy water... jetted and jetted and jetted. confirmed timing position. 120psi of compression on brand new rings...maybe they just hadnt seated yet?, new dent free expansion chamber, new head gasket, pit free head, confirmed squish at .65mm at all four corners. squish is however tighter right at the edge due to head gasket being slightly smaller due to 72cc piston (everyone else i race with is like this too though), what else...checked coolant system, no leaks, holds water over the course of a race weekend. last year i ran a grom, it was a pig, i wanted to get results and lap times like i had on my buddies 65, so i got a used clapped out 65 and built it. so here we are...makes great bottom and mid power, falls flat on the top, doesnt bog, doesnt stutter, and my gearing is a little bit shorter than some peoples. i get plenty of drive off of other riders on the corner, but they catch, pass me on the striaghts. when trying to pass people, i suck up on them on the brakes and in turns, then they leave me on the straight. its been half a season of me not getting results and im getting heavily annoyed... am i simply running out of my powerband and its being exacerbated by slightly shorter gearing? is my clutch slipping and making it feel like it doesnt build anymore power, but the motor isnt really increasing in revs...is my stator or coil going bad? who knows. im sure its engine related... any more ideas or questions and i will immediately respond because i sit at a desk all day at work, and have pretty much unlimited internet access... long post is looooonnnnngggggggg my neighbors are beginning to get pissed at me for screaming around all the time doing plug chops...
  13. Hey all! New owner and thumper enthusiast here. I purchased a used 2000 XR650L about 2 months ago. Using the endless help here throughout the forums, I performed Dave's mods, UNI filter, snorkel removed, smog removed, and FMF Q4 exhaust slip-on. I rejetted to 55/158 at sea level, mixture screw out 2 1/4 turns. Now, originally I had stock exhaust with dave's mods. The stock exhaust had a large hole on the underside of the muffler section. With the 55/158 jetting this problem still occurred, even with the new FMF slip-on. I rejetted again to 58/160 and the problem persists. What is happening: Originally, when riding 55+ mph the bike would stutter as if it's shutting down for a split second. It would continue every few seconds unless I let off the throttle a bit or slowed down. Now, throughout nearly all gears when cruising 25 mph to 55+ it stutters as if it is not getting enough gas or something. This happens throughout 1/8 throttle to full throttle. Less at full throttle. I'm not sure if the problem is worse with the larger jets. I took side cover off from the airbox section and it doesn't run any better. I have recently adjusted the valves and performed an oil change with new filter. Am I too rich? Too lean? Could it be something entirely different? I'm not sure which parts of the spark plug are which, but the round bottom part is a little dark and the tip is brown/white. Thank you so much for anyone who may help!
  14. Hey guys and gals, I've been trying to pin down a problem for a few weeks now with no success. I've read countless forum posts to no avail so here I am. This post will be a bit long but I want to provide as much info as possible as this has me stumped. I have a 2005 DRZ400e. Mostly stock besides the 'free power' mod and the previous owner opening up the airbox and drilling some holes in the stock exhaust to open it up (and make it way too loud). When I bought this bike last year it ran flawlessly. The day after I bought it I left on a two week adventure through far north Australia. Unfortunately the stator was toast, but I luckily had a starter pack that got me through the trip. Other than that it was mechanically solid. After arriving home I let it sit for a few weeks and after that the damn thing just wouldn't start. I got the stator professionally rewound and had them check compression for me. Low and behold the compression was terrible, so I pulled the top end apart and found that the piston rings were absolutely embedded in their grooves. I assume this could be the result of overheating, as without a working stator I was leaving the bike running as much possible. It took a lot of persuading and hot water to get them unstuck before replacing them, but the piston and cylinder looked absolutely fine. So after this the bike started up straight away but wasn't holding idle. Knowing that I'd need to clean the carb I decided to purchase a carb rebuild kit along with a JD Jetting kit. Unfortunately my compressor has broken, but I was as through as possible trying to clean out all the circuits and replacing the clogged jets with the new ones in the kit as well as replacing all the O-rings and gaskets. Currently my carb settings are as follows: Float hight 9mm Main Jet 155 (142 is stock) Pilot jet 45 (stock) Pilot air jet 60 (stock) Mixture screw at 2.5 turns And I'm using the JD blue needle on the 4th notch as suggested by the instructions. Now after doing all of this the bike starts up perfectly and runs great at low speed but has a very weird problem. When I accelerate in any gear through around 1/2 to 3/4 throttle the bike falls flat on its face. It doesn't backfire, but it feels like it is starved for fuel and misses considerably until it gets to a higher Rpm and then it takes off like a rocket again. Never experienced anything like it before and the bike is unfortunately unridable because of it. Here is a list of things that I have tested: Petcock flows fuel fine Replaced fuel with a fresh tank Checked for air leaks - no change Rode with choke on - no change/ worse Rode with airbox cover off - no change Disconnected RR - no change Disconnected TPS - no change I'm really running out of ideas here. I need to test if putting the original needle back in changes anything, but that will probably have to wait until next week. A few other notes: My battery is pretty much shot. It has enough juice to start the bike a few times but that's it. Is it possible for a dodgy battery to cause these sort of problems? I was under the impression that the bike gets its juice from the stator once running. The mixture screw does not seem to do a whole lot. The bike will idle with the mixture screw all the way in, and will still idle with it out 3 turns. This doesn't seem right. I have an extended mixture screw on the way so that I can test it a bit easier. I would appreciate any input as I am grasping at straws here. Thanks in advance, Jet
  15. Hi all, I have a 2005 crf250r that has a pretty bad bog whenever you whack the throttle. If you roll on the gas you cant even tell. The motor has about 7 hours on the full rebuild. Jets are 48 pilot 162 main 70 leak and i dont remember the other one. Has full fmf exhaust with mega bomb header and 4.1 pipe motor is stock. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Luke
  16. Hey all, so my bike is dying when i give it anything over 1/2 throttle. It is completely stock and I have pulled the carb and cleaned the 3 jets. Not very experienced with bikes so any help would be much appreciated. It was running rough when i pulled the carb now it idles perfect but bogs down under throttle. I have changed the plug and have tried running with no air filter. I also took the carb off again to make sure float wasn't stuck. Here is a clip of the bike https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6FW4yt2Oja3Wks5NDNGNXBiUjA
  17. I have a 2008 ktm 250sxf and I'm having a lot of problems with it. I missed yesterday's race because it wouldn't run right. It's idling really rough. Every few kicks it will back fire really loud when I get it to run it will idle rough and when I give it gas it will bog then when I release the gas it will rev high and is hard to come down. I will give it the smallest bit of throttle and it will stick at a really high idle and I have to rev it hard and quick a few times for it to come back down. When I put it in gear and try to ride it slowly it just tries to take off and it doesn't even feel like a high idle. I have to ride the front and rear breaks for it to not take off. I can let off the throttle and put it up to 6th gear and it still keeps going. I just had the entire top end replaced. Cylinder piston rings etc. I cleaned the carb several times cleaned all of the jets and still nothing. Replaced the throttle cable even disconnected it and still nothing. If I disconnect the throttle positioning sensor it runs a little better but is still pretty rough. I used a multimeter to test the tps and it seems fine other than when it's at "idle" it's at 1.14 on 20k I give it a little gas and it sticks at 1.17 until I rev it hard a few times. No idea what it could be. Needle and seat seem fine I'm stumped on it. Please help!
  18. Hi everyone, Really hoping for some advice on how other people have their 625 set up, and their experience with both the R&D Power Bowl 2 (or alternatives, though I feel the Boyensen Quickshots don't get the same reviews - and I'm not spending my money on gimmicks.) My specs - KTM 625 SMC 2007, 16,800 MILES. Titanium Akrapovic - twin slip on Stock header KTM airbox mod - steel cover with gauze 16-38 gearing (P/o had it 17-38) 188# main jet. This is it as far as I'm aware. So - it's a quick bike don't get me wrong, and I love the noise it makes, the torque and generally the character of the bike. But the 'light front wheel' everyone describes in 1,2,3 gears, I only experience in 1st. Short back story - I bought the bike and due to UK licence restrictions I had to put a carb disk into the inlet to restrict the power (by air flow). This meant the bike ran so damn rich it would bog at any more than 1/5 throttle. This didn't last long, I passed my test and took it out. My friend adjusted the fuel screw to make it a little leaner when the disk was in, and readjusted it when the disk came out, with the words 'its probably really rich how I've left it, but it's better than lean'. So I know my fuel economy isn't great, and the bike has good power, but this 188# main jet that's fitted sounds too rich. Most guys are saying between 170-182 and I'm planning to get it dynod and set up - I want it spot on. But I'm here to complain about the throttle response - the sharp wrench of the throttle seems to not have much power. I don't race this bike, and I don't take it to the track even, but I do want to get the best out of the carb. Second gear wheelies don't happen for me, let alone third. I don't really want to be trying to pull wheelies using techniques like clutch up, but the power wheelies you get, Only thing is - I just found out from the P/o that the bike hasn't had it's valve clearances checked since around 2500 of its 16,800 miles. I'm also concerned the spark plug is really due a change especially after all the rich running. So I need advice on the three solutions here - Servicing, analysis and re-jetting, and mods. I plan to take it for a proper service. I plan to get the carb cleaned and re-jetted (after dyno analysis), and I had been looking at the R&D powerbowl. However this is £180 ($250) and equals nearly the full cost of servicing and carb work. I hear some amazing reviews: 'tranforms the bike', 'how do people own bikes with FCR carbs and not own this' , 'how do people ride without this', and then I hear 'why do people turn to over-priced bolt on parts rather than a proper re-jet', and 'why do people refuse to rejet their bikes correctly, and use gimmicks instead'. But I'd rather not spend that money, as for example it equals a new set of tires down the road in summer when I've worn the current ones down. I've also got my eye on some tech7's, my current boots are &%$#@!ed. So what's the verdict? Will the carb rejet solve the issues, or only partially? If so, is there a cheaper alternative to the R&D Powerbowl that definitely does work? When I take it to the performance shop and run it on the dyno, will the mechanic need a JD jet kit to fully tune the carb? Or will a selection of jets suffice? And which ones? I appreciate any advice, I just want to get the bike running how it should, without throwing money at it. It just feels like it should accelerate with more urgency... After all that's why I have a supermoto!
  19. the bike starts kindof hard you have to give it a good kick and more than a little throttle. It will not idle and smokes like crazy like it way rich it blubbers and stall and hesitates at low RPM but it clean out in second and third gear then runs great. 1992 RM 250, good compression, good spark. cleaned the carb 4 times - I am sure its good - stock jetting - stock needle center clip, 40 pilot, 370 main, Air screw at 1-1/2 out Timing is on the factory marks exhaust valve 1 turn clockwise, its clean and free moving. Reeds good, very slight air gap at the edge, but very slight. no air filter is on right now gas is older but still smells good - not old smelling the pipe is light and does not seem to have any buildup or blockage ports were polished but not ported you can see the original cast marks at the port edges. so recap on the 5 essentials spark = good fuel = good, air = good timing = good compression = good Carb / Jetting stock and clean HELP!
  20. In need of some expert opinions here... Got a 94 Cr250r with a new top end that we cannot get to run. We tore into the top end to insure everything was good (which it was) and reinstalled everything to oem torque. The bike will fire and instantly die. If you open the throttle when it fires, it sounds like it wants to run but bogs terribly and instantly dies. Eventually the bike wasn’t even firing by the time we gave up. We cleaned the carb and every jet, replaced the plug halfway through the trials with no luck. Also tried adjusting the air screw and the needle clip position on the slider with no luck. The bike has spark, is definitely getting fuel and air. What could we be missing to where this thing barley fires at all? No idea who did the top end, but it’s definitely new. Could they have installed something wrong? Could it be timing maybe???
  21. I have a 2007 DRZ400SM with 8500 miles on the clock. Recently when riding, in first gear going up hill kinda slowly but with gas it will start to bog down, and then lurch forward, and then stall. It also did this the other day when I was going about 30 mph in 2nd or 3rd and once I pulled in the clutch, it died. I let it sit for a few minutes and it fired right up again and I revved the piss out of it in 1st gear, and it died again a few minutes up the road. I took off the carb, cleaned the jets and the carb with carb cleaner, has a new petcock, and fuel line. Fuel flows fine when I start it and have the fuel line disconnected from the carb. After I reinstalled the carb, it fired up fine and idled fine, but the same problem only 500 feet up the road. Mods are listed below. yoshi full system rs4 dual exhaust 3x3 rejetted carb K&N air filter This may have been asked before, but I could not find a thread of this exact nature. Thanks.
  22. I own a 2016 KTM 85 sx, and ride Enduro and dabble in motocross. The bike normally performs flawlessly, until the last ride. After about 20 hours since having a full engine rebuild, it started having this small bog at high revs, sometimes I could be full throttle and have no problem, but other times I’d be hard on the throttle, and the revs would randomly cut off while on the throttle, after letting off the throttle, the bog would disappear. This used to only happen once every couple rides, but over time it has become more and more frequent, and about half an hour into my last ride I couldn’t go above half throttle withought the bike bogging and the revs cutting off. Anyone know what this might be?? Thanks in advance. -Reeve
  23. Hi all i have a 2016 ktm 125 sx with 3 hours on and it has n weird bogging issue. It runs great with lots of power until i dont ride on the pipe for about a minute, then i have to clear it up again. Or it would just platter until it cleans itself. please guys any advice would help, this is driving me crazie.
  24. Hello everyone, I have a 2003 yz85 that seems to have issues at around 1/4 throttle under load. It makes starting from a hill damn near impossible, although starting from flat ground is no problem. Spark plug is fairly new and the color looks good on it. I just rebuilt the carb completely with all new stock jets, needle clip was on the first clip (full lean) so i left it at that. It has a airbox mod, Twin air filter, and Pro circuit silencer so its possibly too rich and needs a larger diameter needle? It idles and runs well, rips really well in the powerband, just seems like it struggles to do hill climbs if it falls out of the powerband while doing so. Also on a unrelated note the clutch arm seems to not want to return fully under its own spring tension unless the clutch is fully pulled in and then released. I think it may just need the spring replaced on the clutch actuator arm but i am not sure. I am also unsure how to remove the clutch arm in the first place. Any help with these issues would be greatly appreciated. Running 93 octane at 40:1, trail riding only no track use. Not sure when the last top end was done on it, it was probably awhile ago but compression still seems good. Edit: forgot to note I am running +1 tooth on the rear sprocket, although now I think I should have added 3 or 4 teeth to it and this wouldnt be an issue.
  25. You might have seen some other posts from me lately on this section, as I bought a 2005 CRF80 for my son. I took the bike apart to check/regrease everything, found nothing wrong, overall conditions were excellent. On the engine side, I put a new Tusk air filter, new spark plug, changed oil, set valve clearances, set cam chain tension, cleaned thoroughly the carburetor, set the float level to 21.5mm, and everything looks as good as it could be ( I have the Service Manual). But carburetion is all wrong: she starts at first kick, throttle response at low RPMs is good, then as she revs, she stutters as if the fuel is cutting off, or there's no spark. If you're ultra-cautious with the throttle you can get her to rev, but if you just open (and I'm not talking about going WOT when she's idle, but when she's about half-way in her RPM range), she stutters like crazy and does NOT rev. As said, carburetor is as clean as it could be, needle is on center groove, main jet is a 90, exhaust is stock (and the spark arrestor screen is clean). I tried a 95 and a 100, raising and lowering the needle, things change but the stuttering / cutoff doesn't go away. I have not done proper testing, meaning starting from all lean and going to all rich to see if things get better or worse, but before I do that I want to ask: is there anything else that is known to cause this type of behavior on this bike? Dunno, faulty stator, CDI, etc? I opened the left engine cover and the flywheel/stator look absolutely pristine, no signs of rust or anything like that. The fact that if you play ultra-carefully with the throttle you can get her to rev, seems to indicate there is nothing wrong on the electrical side, but I'm not sure this is true. Spark seems solid, makes a nice sound, and in any case it starts at first kick, so again another indication that electrical stuff is in order. All electrical connections seem ok. Tank, petcock filter, tank vent hose have been checked, I get a nice flow of gasoline from the carburetor hose, so all seems to be in order there. Any suggestions?
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