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Found 38 results

  1. Hey guys so i have a pretty interesting scenario going on here. I got a used kx65 on craigslist that needed the bottom end rebuilt, couldn't really hear it run because the knock from the crank and bearings was so bad, so i replaced the crank, bearings, seals, and gaskets. (In my college apartment living room) Bike started in a few kicks! Here is where it gets interesting It starts up totally fine but anything past idle, it really spits and sputters, and past half throttle it wants to cut it out completely. I tried cleaning the carb once, checking the plug and it looks to be burning fine, adjusting the clip position on the needle jet up and down both ways, new gas. Could it be possible the top end would cause that? I did put the old piston in it but it didnt have much sign of wear, but I could be way off. Or is there some stuff I should try first again? Cleaning the carb again? Im open to any and all suggestions! Not willing to give up now, its so close to being done! I have rebuilt quite a few bikes now, 4 and 2 stroke so i have a decent amount of fix it know how, just really stumped on this.
  2. My bone stock kx250f has almost killed me twice bogging on the face of a jump, it has 12 hours on it, seems to only do it when hot. Don’t know if this would make a difference but I run vp110 and 87 pump mixed little less than half. I’m floored by this and terrified of this machine
  3. So I don't seem to find my specific issue so here I am asking. I have a 1997 Xr600r. It was recently re-jetted and has ran really well ever since until more recently it has begun to have this issue. Everything works fine. Kicks right away, nice and easy. Runs great, sounds great, purs. But when I'm downshifting and slowing down to a stop, if I let my hand off the throttle that's when it just dies. I found that I can counter this by lightly holding the throttle as I down shift (so I'm revving quite a bit during downshift). But it hadn't done this before. The only thing I've done that I suspect may have been an issue on my part was when I pulled out the engine to change the valve cover gasket and upon doing so perhaps when connecting the carb back to it, I may have missed something or made a crack in the boot? Any ideas? Thanks
  4. Hey guys, I bought a very low hours 2006 WR250F back in December. The previous owner did the following: Airbox snorkel removed ProCircuit T4 exhaust Gray wire mod Throttle stop mod Smog hardware removed Quickshot 2 DynoJet Kit – stage 2 Bike runs great except it has the much talked about off-idle bog when you whack the throttle from idle. So I’ve been doing my research on TT and watching all the AP timing videos on YouTube. Last weekend, we changed the leak jet from a #90 to a #40. This made no difference. Then, we did the O-Ring mod to the AP cam/arm and adjusted the slack/timing. This made no difference. Then, we removed carb from airboot and recorded the AP squirt with an iPhone and found there was ZERO squirt! AHAH….here’s the problem. So then we took off carb bowl and inspected the AP diaphragm & spring, cleaned out junk under the diaphragm, reassembled and took another video. This time we saw a nice strong squirt from the AP when the throttle got whacked and the timing looked perfect -> it just missed the slide. However, on the stand and when riding out of a corner, we are still noticing a small bog. So I’m wondering what to do next to tune out the remaining bog. Here are my questions: Do I still need to have the larger leak jet (like a #40) even though I also have the Quickshot 2 which is supposed to fix the bog? I have no idea what needle clip position the previous owner set up. Even though the bike is running great through mid-throttle range, could the needle clip position be related to my off-idle bog? Same question about the main jet? (I know previous owner put in largest DynoJet main that came with the kit and he did not experiment with the other 4 main jets that came in the kit.) Most explanations of off-idle bog say it’s caused by temporary lean condition and this is what AP squirt is supposed to solve. However, if my AP squirt is too big, would this also cause the same symptom of a bog? I would love to hear your thoughts and get some advice on how to move forward here and eliminate the remaining off-idle bog. Thanks! Steve
  5. riverside21

    1987 xr200r tuning

    Recently picked up a 1987 xr200r in pretty good condition, all stock. The carb was all gummed up and running real rich, and the previous owner removed the baffle and end cap from the exhaust, but left the air box top chute in place. I cleaned up the carb and verified all stock jetting, needle position, air screw, etc. Where we live the quieter the better for off-roading so I ordered a new baffle and end cap, but did ride the bike for a week before the parts arrived. With the muffler parts out I had a brown plug and plenty of power throughout the entire throttle range. Got the muffler parts, installed them and now the bike falls flat while climbing hills and gradually rolling on the throttle, I get a burble at low speed sometimes and I have a black sooty plug. I'm kind of at a loss on this one. I realize that the parts restricted the exhaust....but it's basically back to stock and I've had these bikes stock before and they ran fine. Seeing as I have all stock jets and am getting a sooty plug, I'm wondering if electrics are weak? I also tried adjusting the air screw in/out and moving the needle clip to position 2, either of the two made my problem worse. Any ideas?
  6. A friend of mine asked me to fix his drz125 for him. The bike was put away running and sat for about 6 years In a shed. I cleaned the carb, air box, air filter, etc... and shimed the valves. The bike will start right up 1st kick but when it gets hot it will only idle and die out when u give it gas. I think it's a fuel related issue but I don't know what else to do. Please help, any ideas are appreciated.
  7. Tnewsome525

    YZ125 cdi problems?

    I have a 2006 YZ125 that I bought new back in 06, I have went through the whole bike recently and everything is in good shape. Checked all the electrical system and it is up to spec. cleaned the carb spotless inside and out. Stock jetting always worked fine where I live. So for about 4 years now I haven’t ridden the bike but a few times and now I noticed that the bike isn’t running right when you snap the throttle it hesitates too long and just doesn’t have the throttle response it had before. Also when I looked at the head it was pitted some from detonation. I have read in here that a few people have had cdi trouble on the YZ125 and 250, if you have can you share your expirence of a bad cdi with me? I’m hesitant about buying one cause you can’t return electronics even if they are faulty also if anybody has a cdi box 2005-18 they would sell let me know, thanks
  8. Whaddup boys and girls, New around here, as well as very new to the dirt biking (riding in general) scene. I recently moved out of the city and more, country livin' so I got a dirt bike. I got a '04 YZ250F and haven't had much problems with it, except as I've been getting more and more comfortable on the throttle, and practicing my wheelies and such, I noticed... Low RPMs (Just above standstill, probably below like 10-20km/h) When i crack the throttle, it bogs if I'm going very slow/at a stand still. I have to release the throttle and twist the throttle more slowly (up to about 20km/h) then I can crack her wide open no problem. My question is, because I bought a racing bike, is it intented to be like this, since they would require a lot less low end power (since they're starting in dirt/mud/sand etc) or is there an issue with my bike. If there is an issue, what would possibly be the fix? Since i've had my bike (About 2-3weeks now) I've done: -oil change, air filter change, oil filter change, installed new sparkplugs and personal stuff such as suspension stiffness, handlebar position. Anything else I should be doing often other than those ^ (above) and is there a fix to my bike issue? or this how it is suppose to be? Thanks in advance homies.
  9. Just give me a second before sending me off to read all the previous posts (trust me, I have been there). Picked up a used bike about a month ago, bike ran ok'ish but was hard to start. Changed the pilot from a 50 to a 45, bike ran better and was easier to start. And with some adjustment of the fuel screw no bog. Installed a JD jetting kit, bike ran great and pulled like a freight train! No bog at all! The suddenly, the bike started bogging. It's only a problem right of idle, if it gets up in revs there is nothing. Video: https://goo.gl/photos/4t5xVVXQRfa8Cqjb8 I do not believe the temperature changes across our practice rides are big enough to explain that big a change. I have tried 25, 38, 42, 45 and 50 pilot jets without much change. Also changing the fuel screw does little to the bog. Any ideas on what to try? Could my idle adjustment affect this?
  10. XL600

    Off idle bog

    My bike, a 2007 300 XCW, has been acting very weird lately. A few months ago, it was in great shape. Perfectly jetted, nearly new top end, etc. Perfect power. But the last two rides were cut short. On the first, the bike was running perfectly for about 25 miles. Then, suddenly, it started to randomly bog down at up to 1/4 throttle. If I could get it past the bog, it lit up and ran fine. Only to bog again a few minutes later. Made low speed twisty uphill turns nearly impossible. Naturally, I thought "Damn pilot jet must be clogged from crud in the float bowl". Unfortunately I didn't have a wire small enough to clean it (it was clogged badly). When I got home, I replaced the pilot and cleaned the clogged one. Rebuilt the carb and added a fuel filter. Thinking I was now good to go, I went out this morning only to find it's behaving exactly the same way. I checked the pilot and carb and everything was nice, open, and clean. What could it be then? Could a sticky power valve behave like a clogged pilot jet? Something electrical perhaps? Even now, every once in awhile, it runs perfectly. Only to bog randomly and usually at the worst time. Thanks! Baffled as usual,0 XL600
  11. Ok, so ive got a 98 yz80, it runs amazing. Ill fire it up and it starts first kick. Idles great. Ill ride it, and its pretty good in the low end. But sometimes, if i open the throttle it will bog, it slows me down, could it be a rich bog, or a air bog? then ill just hold clutch in, rev it back up and itll be fine. Its not too big of an issue, but it sure is annoying. Im running 50:1, do i need to be running more oil, or could it do with something else?
  12. Kangaroo_Smasher

    Help! cr125 bogs!

    Backstory: 2003 cr125 piston siezed during mud race. cylinder replated, fresh top end, all back together and bike rips well but looses coolant out exhaust. Fast forward 3 years and 3 complete gasket sets later and found out that the replated cylinder had a crack behind the inner power valve axle stay, so it was loosing coolant out the power valve. Now: new oem cylinder and head, fresh wiseco piston, carb rebuild, air filter, fresh silencer packing, and now the bike starts and runs well but bogs soooo badly off idle and when i crack it WOT. feels like its misfiring. it rolls on power okay if i roll onto the throttle slowly. Im at a loss. So far I have changed out spark plug, checked correct piston orientation, checked correct PV operation, Jetting is currently 410 main, 37.5 pilot, needle 2nd cip, AS 1.5 out. I don't know what to do with this bike. Can anybody suggest anything that I haven't tried yet? I want to get this bike back on the trail
  13. Okay guys, first post on the forum, hope I can get some help. I have a 1998 ktm 250sx and the bike runs great, starts first kick, idles fine and is very responsive and hits the power band great, but when I'm wot in the power band it bogs, if I let off the throttle slightly it will hesitate for a moment and then make it's way into higher rpms. This only happens at wot but is very annoying. Any help would be great thanks! I have replaced the gaskets on both side cases, adjusted the carb and still have no luck
  14. A 1994 KX125... This is my first 2-stroke (and a new purchase for me), i was told by the previous owner that the oil from the exhaust was a sign that it needed a new piston ring. Replaced the piston and ring and now the bike bogs down bad from a stop/very low speed while in first gear. New piston and ring (Wiseco spec sized for the year but is flat while the original one was crowned) Cleaned the carb (42 pilot jet with a 158 main jet) 800' above sea level Reeds look great Repacked the FMF silencer (still have oil out the exhaust so I know its running rich) I just can't figure out what else to do or check. The bike has great pull and power in the upper RPM range of first and all through the rest of the gears it pulls strong. Just looking for something that I might be missing. I have been searching this forum along with others for an answer to the issue I am having but have been unlucking in finding any leads...
  15. This is my first post. I have been reading the forums since I picked up my 17 SM in January. The bike has the 3x3 mod, JD jet kit 160 main blue needle 4th position 25 pilot 2.5 turns on the fuel screw, and full rs2 exhaust at sea level (gulf coast). My issue was I pulled the carb yesterday to install an fcr only to realize that the company didn't send the intake boot with the fcr. So I decided to put everything back together so I could at least ride a little. Note prior it was running perfect. Got everything together and went for a ride. If I was in 4th or 5th doing over 50 and went wot then it would buck and sputter otherwise it ran ok. Long story short, I read and tried everything suggested on here. Nothing worked, but last night I found an answer buried in a post about capping off the vacuum line to the petcock and carb. Once I done that the bike ran perfect. So obviously there was a small vacuum leak at wot where the line was on the petcock. The line was on the petcock like normal but im guessing it stretched just enough from removing several times. Just wanted to share with everyone because I was scratching my head since all I did was pull the carb off and put it back on several times.
  16. 2013 KTM EXCF 350 Replaced spark plug cap after experiencing sputter/ cutting out after the engine got warmed up. Now it idles and runs strong but will start to cut out if I give it full throttle. I can get to high RPM’s as long as I only give it 50-70% throttle. It’s almost like I hit the rev limiter and then it chokes. It takes a few seconds to recover and it will go again.
  17. HI, I am new, looked on this forum but did not see a definite answer, I have a zongshen Bull 250 and one day I was riding and suddenly the bike lost all power and now will not rev more than half of max rpm, it acts like it has a rev limiter so low, and it pops and maybe smokes little black, i replaced the carb so it is not an issue there and then noticed after a day that it has low compression on the kickstarter and there is a sound in the air filter/box when i kick it over so i figured maybe a cam chain skipped a tooth and now the timing is off and intake is maybe open slightly so i am trying to adjust the valves but I cannot find the T mark, there are random letters like SM, and then there are 2 lines that match up with the marking on the crank case but no letter T for Top dead center. How are the markings on the cam sprocket supposed to sit relative to the T mark for Top dead center? .. I don"t know anymore where to start and what to do, can someone guide me through valve adjustment and what the clearences should be? I think the engine is CB250, it is air cooled and it is SOHC. THANK YOU!
  18. Jaundre Allers

    2016 ktm 125 sx bog

    Hi all i have a 2016 ktm 125 sx with 3 hours on and it has n weird bogging issue. It runs great with lots of power until i dont ride on the pipe for about a minute, then i have to clear it up again. Or it would just platter until it cleans itself. please guys any advice would help, this is driving me crazie.
  19. luke8500

    2005 CRF250R Bog

    Hi all, I have a 2005 crf250r that has a pretty bad bog whenever you whack the throttle. If you roll on the gas you cant even tell. The motor has about 7 hours on the full rebuild. Jets are 48 pilot 162 main 70 leak and i dont remember the other one. Has full fmf exhaust with mega bomb header and 4.1 pipe motor is stock. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Luke
  20. Hey all! New owner and thumper enthusiast here. I purchased a used 2000 XR650L about 2 months ago. Using the endless help here throughout the forums, I performed Dave's mods, UNI filter, snorkel removed, smog removed, and FMF Q4 exhaust slip-on. I rejetted to 55/158 at sea level, mixture screw out 2 1/4 turns. Now, originally I had stock exhaust with dave's mods. The stock exhaust had a large hole on the underside of the muffler section. With the 55/158 jetting this problem still occurred, even with the new FMF slip-on. I rejetted again to 58/160 and the problem persists. What is happening: Originally, when riding 55+ mph the bike would stutter as if it's shutting down for a split second. It would continue every few seconds unless I let off the throttle a bit or slowed down. Now, throughout nearly all gears when cruising 25 mph to 55+ it stutters as if it is not getting enough gas or something. This happens throughout 1/8 throttle to full throttle. Less at full throttle. I'm not sure if the problem is worse with the larger jets. I took side cover off from the airbox section and it doesn't run any better. I have recently adjusted the valves and performed an oil change with new filter. Am I too rich? Too lean? Could it be something entirely different? I'm not sure which parts of the spark plug are which, but the round bottom part is a little dark and the tip is brown/white. Thank you so much for anyone who may help!
  21. jet_bunny

    DRZ400e Mid Throttle Stumble

    Hey guys and gals, I've been trying to pin down a problem for a few weeks now with no success. I've read countless forum posts to no avail so here I am. This post will be a bit long but I want to provide as much info as possible as this has me stumped. I have a 2005 DRZ400e. Mostly stock besides the 'free power' mod and the previous owner opening up the airbox and drilling some holes in the stock exhaust to open it up (and make it way too loud). When I bought this bike last year it ran flawlessly. The day after I bought it I left on a two week adventure through far north Australia. Unfortunately the stator was toast, but I luckily had a starter pack that got me through the trip. Other than that it was mechanically solid. After arriving home I let it sit for a few weeks and after that the damn thing just wouldn't start. I got the stator professionally rewound and had them check compression for me. Low and behold the compression was terrible, so I pulled the top end apart and found that the piston rings were absolutely embedded in their grooves. I assume this could be the result of overheating, as without a working stator I was leaving the bike running as much possible. It took a lot of persuading and hot water to get them unstuck before replacing them, but the piston and cylinder looked absolutely fine. So after this the bike started up straight away but wasn't holding idle. Knowing that I'd need to clean the carb I decided to purchase a carb rebuild kit along with a JD Jetting kit. Unfortunately my compressor has broken, but I was as through as possible trying to clean out all the circuits and replacing the clogged jets with the new ones in the kit as well as replacing all the O-rings and gaskets. Currently my carb settings are as follows: Float hight 9mm Main Jet 155 (142 is stock) Pilot jet 45 (stock) Pilot air jet 60 (stock) Mixture screw at 2.5 turns And I'm using the JD blue needle on the 4th notch as suggested by the instructions. Now after doing all of this the bike starts up perfectly and runs great at low speed but has a very weird problem. When I accelerate in any gear through around 1/2 to 3/4 throttle the bike falls flat on its face. It doesn't backfire, but it feels like it is starved for fuel and misses considerably until it gets to a higher Rpm and then it takes off like a rocket again. Never experienced anything like it before and the bike is unfortunately unridable because of it. Here is a list of things that I have tested: Petcock flows fuel fine Replaced fuel with a fresh tank Checked for air leaks - no change Rode with choke on - no change/ worse Rode with airbox cover off - no change Disconnected RR - no change Disconnected TPS - no change I'm really running out of ideas here. I need to test if putting the original needle back in changes anything, but that will probably have to wait until next week. A few other notes: My battery is pretty much shot. It has enough juice to start the bike a few times but that's it. Is it possible for a dodgy battery to cause these sort of problems? I was under the impression that the bike gets its juice from the stator once running. The mixture screw does not seem to do a whole lot. The bike will idle with the mixture screw all the way in, and will still idle with it out 3 turns. This doesn't seem right. I have an extended mixture screw on the way so that I can test it a bit easier. I would appreciate any input as I am grasping at straws here. Thanks in advance, Jet
  22. Hey all, so my bike is dying when i give it anything over 1/2 throttle. It is completely stock and I have pulled the carb and cleaned the 3 jets. Not very experienced with bikes so any help would be much appreciated. It was running rough when i pulled the carb now it idles perfect but bogs down under throttle. I have changed the plug and have tried running with no air filter. I also took the carb off again to make sure float wasn't stuck. Here is a clip of the bike https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6FW4yt2Oja3Wks5NDNGNXBiUjA
  23. Hi everyone, Really hoping for some advice on how other people have their 625 set up, and their experience with both the R&D Power Bowl 2 (or alternatives, though I feel the Boyensen Quickshots don't get the same reviews - and I'm not spending my money on gimmicks.) My specs - KTM 625 SMC 2007, 16,800 MILES. Titanium Akrapovic - twin slip on Stock header KTM airbox mod - steel cover with gauze 16-38 gearing (P/o had it 17-38) 188# main jet. This is it as far as I'm aware. So - it's a quick bike don't get me wrong, and I love the noise it makes, the torque and generally the character of the bike. But the 'light front wheel' everyone describes in 1,2,3 gears, I only experience in 1st. Short back story - I bought the bike and due to UK licence restrictions I had to put a carb disk into the inlet to restrict the power (by air flow). This meant the bike ran so damn rich it would bog at any more than 1/5 throttle. This didn't last long, I passed my test and took it out. My friend adjusted the fuel screw to make it a little leaner when the disk was in, and readjusted it when the disk came out, with the words 'its probably really rich how I've left it, but it's better than lean'. So I know my fuel economy isn't great, and the bike has good power, but this 188# main jet that's fitted sounds too rich. Most guys are saying between 170-182 and I'm planning to get it dynod and set up - I want it spot on. But I'm here to complain about the throttle response - the sharp wrench of the throttle seems to not have much power. I don't race this bike, and I don't take it to the track even, but I do want to get the best out of the carb. Second gear wheelies don't happen for me, let alone third. I don't really want to be trying to pull wheelies using techniques like clutch up, but the power wheelies you get, Only thing is - I just found out from the P/o that the bike hasn't had it's valve clearances checked since around 2500 of its 16,800 miles. I'm also concerned the spark plug is really due a change especially after all the rich running. So I need advice on the three solutions here - Servicing, analysis and re-jetting, and mods. I plan to take it for a proper service. I plan to get the carb cleaned and re-jetted (after dyno analysis), and I had been looking at the R&D powerbowl. However this is £180 ($250) and equals nearly the full cost of servicing and carb work. I hear some amazing reviews: 'tranforms the bike', 'how do people own bikes with FCR carbs and not own this' , 'how do people ride without this', and then I hear 'why do people turn to over-priced bolt on parts rather than a proper re-jet', and 'why do people refuse to rejet their bikes correctly, and use gimmicks instead'. But I'd rather not spend that money, as for example it equals a new set of tires down the road in summer when I've worn the current ones down. I've also got my eye on some tech7's, my current boots are &%$#@!ed. So what's the verdict? Will the carb rejet solve the issues, or only partially? If so, is there a cheaper alternative to the R&D Powerbowl that definitely does work? When I take it to the performance shop and run it on the dyno, will the mechanic need a JD jet kit to fully tune the carb? Or will a selection of jets suffice? And which ones? I appreciate any advice, I just want to get the bike running how it should, without throwing money at it. It just feels like it should accelerate with more urgency... After all that's why I have a supermoto!
  24. the bike starts kindof hard you have to give it a good kick and more than a little throttle. It will not idle and smokes like crazy like it way rich it blubbers and stall and hesitates at low RPM but it clean out in second and third gear then runs great. 1992 RM 250, good compression, good spark. cleaned the carb 4 times - I am sure its good - stock jetting - stock needle center clip, 40 pilot, 370 main, Air screw at 1-1/2 out Timing is on the factory marks exhaust valve 1 turn clockwise, its clean and free moving. Reeds good, very slight air gap at the edge, but very slight. no air filter is on right now gas is older but still smells good - not old smelling the pipe is light and does not seem to have any buildup or blockage ports were polished but not ported you can see the original cast marks at the port edges. so recap on the 5 essentials spark = good fuel = good, air = good timing = good compression = good Carb / Jetting stock and clean HELP!
  25. shift_love


    let me start off by saying, that i am a long time reader, but have never posted until today. I HAVE SEARCHED EXTENSIVELY. all over. i have done multiple fixes and changes. but, here we go... I road race in a mini bike series. kx65's are ultra popular and competitive due to their cheapness, speed and weight. I have a kx65, my frineds have kx65's, everyone has kx65's! lol My kx65 however seems to have no top end power. I can run lap times close to 2 seconds faster on our endurance bike (which i dont own), and I can always really feel the top end pull on it. Both bikes are modded exactly the same. except one runs race gas, mine does not. I have ridden other peoples kx65's and their bikes also make more top end power than mine does. What its doing is it feels like the top end just flattens out and tapers off right when it should be at peak power. It doesnt bog, it doesnt stutter, it just flattens out and makes no power where there should be 2-4k rpms of more power band. MODS MADE TO BIKE -wiseco 46.5mm piston (72cc), GENUINE keihin pwk28 carb - 132-148 main tested. float level set to factory specs, 42 pilot is golden, clip set to third position, off idle is beautiful, mid is great and will power wheelie shifting from first to second. vforce 3 carbon reeds. moose intake spacer, dent free factory expansion chamber, brand new pro circuit pipe. -crank, piston, and main bearings have 10 hours on them. rings have maybe 1 hour on them, plug color with WOT plug chops in fourth are kinda ehhh, not dark, but not light, but i can never jet it to the point of it being brown on the main jet. i have as of today ordered a 130 main jet to try even leaner settings...color largely remains the same no matter what, power is flatter with richer jetting things ive done to try and recitfy this issue -new crank seals, split case and resealed it, new piston rings, performed leak down test, held pressure except for at the plugs on the leak down tester. confirmed with soapy water... jetted and jetted and jetted. confirmed timing position. 120psi of compression on brand new rings...maybe they just hadnt seated yet?, new dent free expansion chamber, new head gasket, pit free head, confirmed squish at .65mm at all four corners. squish is however tighter right at the edge due to head gasket being slightly smaller due to 72cc piston (everyone else i race with is like this too though), what else...checked coolant system, no leaks, holds water over the course of a race weekend. last year i ran a grom, it was a pig, i wanted to get results and lap times like i had on my buddies 65, so i got a used clapped out 65 and built it. so here we are...makes great bottom and mid power, falls flat on the top, doesnt bog, doesnt stutter, and my gearing is a little bit shorter than some peoples. i get plenty of drive off of other riders on the corner, but they catch, pass me on the striaghts. when trying to pass people, i suck up on them on the brakes and in turns, then they leave me on the straight. its been half a season of me not getting results and im getting heavily annoyed... am i simply running out of my powerband and its being exacerbated by slightly shorter gearing? is my clutch slipping and making it feel like it doesnt build anymore power, but the motor isnt really increasing in revs...is my stator or coil going bad? who knows. im sure its engine related... any more ideas or questions and i will immediately respond because i sit at a desk all day at work, and have pretty much unlimited internet access... long post is looooonnnnngggggggg my neighbors are beginning to get pissed at me for screaming around all the time doing plug chops...