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  1. Have a 2003 rm 125 on the first ride it seized bad crank bearing changed the crank and bearing and gaskets first ride after being fixed there started to be a weird grinding sound coming from bottom end almost sounds like clutch side bike starts and runs fine im not starting it though to minimize damage
  2. Hello I am looking for a set of cases for a 05 KX250 2 stroke. Part # is 14001-0021. From what I can tell cross referencing parts, 06-07 are practically identical to 05 and have all the same internals. the part # for 06-07 is 14001-0065. Anybody out there who might have some lying around collecting dust? Kawasaki discontinued manufacturing these apparently
  3. I have a bike someone gave me thats in pieces and I have a good 426 bottom end and a good 03 450 top end. Can I put these together and what if anything would I have to change?
  4. Hello, I was rebuilding my bottom end in my 1999 wr400 because the crankshaft broke on it. Bought a 1998 yz400 crank to put in it and after measuring them, the can chain timing gear on the crank is ~0.5mm different between the two along the shaft. The rod bearings on the yz are also bigger but that shouldn't be an issue. Should I be ok or do I need to buy a wr specific crank off of fleabay? Thanks for the responses!
  5. So just a short background I was heavily invovled in the ECEA and raced since I was 6. At 16 my 2006 crf250r blew up and than I broke my leg. Long story short I'm now 26 and just purchased a 2000 RM 125 and I need some help. It has a rebuild bottom end but the top end needs some love and there are small parts missing from the bottom end as well. Both cases are together trans is all there and mostly everything is done. The main issues I'm having are locating parts and making sure I get everything that's missing like washers and spacers where needed. I just need a few knowledgeable people to help me put this bike back together. I can give pictures and as much information as you need to help. As soon as someone replies I think it'd be easier for me to just take pictures of everything I have and you tell me what I'm missing. Also if anyone is selling parts and close to south jersey I'd be more than willing to purchase parts.
  6. I recently purchased a 1997 Honda Cr125, i was riding Monday when all of a sudden I lost all power, it bogged and then stalled and would not start .. before hand I have done all general maintenance (clean carb, new filter and oil.) so I took the top end apart right away and found my piston got mangled by what looked like a piece of spark plug or rist pin.. the cylinder has a deep score down the side all the way from top to bottom from the mangled piston ring also. So I have the cylinder out to get machined to stock bore and of coarse will get a top end rebuild kit .. what my worry is, is the bottom end ... I checked my connecting rod and as I turned it I noticed tiny little metal fragments on the crank shaft not many but some, also there is lots of left-right play but very little up and down with my connecting rod. I drained my oil and checked my magnetic drain plug and noticed more tiny metal fragments. I'm wondering how big of an issue these fragments are as I would rather avoid taking apart bottom end and paying a lot more ... and also how much left-right play is the connecting rod supposed to have ? All opinions appreciated !!
  7. I'm looking for someone in the Denver/Springs area to work on my KTM 525 EXC bottom end. Had it shipped to a reputable builder on KTMTalk three separate times and the bike is still dropping in gear when rolling it around in neutral. I've given up, gotten a refund, and looking to go somewhere local. So far I've been recommended Jeff Graves at Apex in Colorado Springs. Anyone else worth looking at? Thinking about TFOG as well. Thanks!
  8. Hi guys, thinking of buying an 05-07 crankshaft for my 02 cr 125, and wondering whether they are interchangeable, i´ve seen that hotrods sells complete cranks and claim they are compatible from 90-07, so im assuming it will fit. Has anyone ever used these newer cranks in the older models? If so are there any benefits to using these cranks i´ve heard they are lighter and easier to service? Thank you in advance.
  9. Hello! Last fall I seized up 1998 ktm 200 exc. thinking it was just the top end, I took it apart (the top end - cylinder, piston, head) and the bottom end appears to be seized. (The bike died and I stupidly tried popstarting it one too many times). I do not have much experience and would prefer to have someone else work on the bottom end. Does anyone know a good shop in Connecticut where I won't get ripped off or somebody who is knowledgeable and would help me out for a decent price? Not looking to spend a fortune just want to get back on the trials. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
  10. I just traded for a 2004 crf450r that has a bad crank. I am new to 4 strokes and their engines, so i am a bit scared to try to do this myself. If i were to send it to a dealership, about how much would that cost to get a crank replaced? And if i were to do it myself, would i need any specialty tools?
  11. Hey all, I have a few questions. I just sold my 2002 KTM 380EXC and bought a 2008 KTM 300 XC-W with 373 hours. I did it because I didn't want to have to figure out how I was going to come up with money to do a crank rebuild in the future. But anyways I love it, although it isn't a 380. It has crazy CRAZY torque. I loved the power from the 380, and was kinda disappointing not having all that power right from idle, But the ability to actually lug the motor in the low RPMs and not stall the bike or boil it over... EVER. Made me pretty dang happy. Also the 300 is much quieter than the 380. Must be those extra ccs that contibute to the noise. Anyways, the other day I rode my bike around to warm it up, then let it idle for about 5min while I got my gear on... Right before I took off, I heard a Squeal and it shut down. I go to kick it again and it's stuck. I pulled it apart, and it wasn't the top end that was Seized, but the bottom end that was. I was able to wiggle it loose after a few turns but when the crank turns it isn't 100% smooth which tells me it must be one of the bearings. So I guess I'll be doing what I had planned all along. So back to my question, now that I will have the cases split, should I replace all the Transmission bearings along with the main crank bearings? Or do I never really have to worry about the Transmission bearings? There's a full Wrench Rabbit kit for $620 on ebay, which includes all bearings including transmission bearings, or should I just get the bottom end and top end rebuild which is close to $500? (I was planning on doing both top and bottom anyways).
  12. So I recently bought a locked up Crf150r for 250$ that is in really rough shape. I got the bike completely tore down and be cases split and everything looks very new like it just got rebuilt. The only damage i found was the cylinder had a a nick at the top, the piston oil ring was damaged and the underside of the piston had a bunch of nicks and small gouges in it like something from the bottom end broke into a bunch of small pieces and went up into the cylinder. I split the cases though and all the bearings and gears and everything showed no signs of damage. It had a wiseco crank in it that also looked brand new. I think the reason it was locked up was something with the piston, cylinder cuz once I got those out the crank and everything spun very smoothly and freely. The only thing that I am concerned about and need help with though is on the inside of the crankcase halves where the crank goes, there is some damage right in the middle all the way around. It looks like the main bearing went at some point and the crank crashed into the walls surrounding it and scored it up. There is also lots of nicks and gouges but not too bad. I just need to know if it is ok to run the cases like that or if I’ll need new cases or to get them worked on. I wouldn’t think it would affect anything because it doesn’t come in contact with the crank or anything but I just wanted to get somebodies opinion on it who knows what they are talking about before I spend a bunch of money and time rebuilding it just to have it blow up again in the 1st hour. Any help will be greatly appreciate. I’ll try to figure out how to post some pics of it to help out.
  13. Hi all this is my first post, sorry if it's not in the proper area. Anyways I'm very puzzled with the current state of my 2008 YZ250, I rebuilt my bottom end fairly recently, out in all new bearings, seals, gaskets, and a couple new tranny gears. I checked the crank shaft to make sure it was smooth and the bearings weren't being side loaded and everything checked out. I put around 20hrs on the bike over the next few weeks and ended up breaking my inner clutch hub. I replaced it and now there's lots of friction somewhere, the kick starter is very difficult to move, I pulled the cylinder and everything checked out there. I'm really confused, my bike worked great a clutch part broke, I replaced it and now the crankshaft doesn't wanna rotate easily. I'm really hoping to not need to split my case again, has anyone heard of anything like this or have any ideas? Thanks!
  14. I started working on a bike I left for a year or so when I left off I just put the crank bearings in but I didn’t press them In enough is there a tool or a way I could get them in?
  15. So I was getting the old main bearings out of my yz85 and this shifting fork popped out. I put it back and it felt like it was in the right place but I wanted someone to confirm that I had put it back in correctly and in the right spot.
  16. Hello Everyone, I'm doing some work to my 06 CR250 after it was decommissioned due to a broken spoke and flat rear tire. I tried to install a steahly fww a few weeks back and had trouble getting the weight to fully thread. I'd put the cover on thinking it was completely screwed in (yes i had the spacer gasket on) and tried to kick over the bike, but the motor was seized. I came to realize that the fww was stuck against the cover of the motor. Reached out to steahly and they seemed to think either the flywheel or the fww had damaged threads prior to the install or i crossthreaded the weight. They offered to repair my flywheel for free if i sent it out to them (that's some kick ass customer service if you ask me). Anyways, let me get to the point. Removing the flywheel was fairly straight forward with the flywheel puller. My only concern is I have no idea how to install the flywheel and I can't seem to find any how-to vids on the web. Can anyone help me out? I'm sure it can be that difficult!
  17. hey so I have 2010 Yz250f and was riding in the bush and I was getting a clunking sound when I gave it throttle. thought it was the loose chain since it was very loose. later in the ride it starts puffing white smoke straight out of the bottom as well as leaking oil out the bottom. I know something must have broke in the bottom end it was running until I shut it down when I seen that. anybody know what I did?
  18. Hi TT.. Does anyone have in the possession a 2003 Genuine OEM Yamaha WR450F Crankshaft assembly. Part No. (5TJ-11400-01-00) - Alternatively, would you know where I could source one ASAP. I am located in AUS. Thanks
  19. 2008 crf250r, I removed the 7 bolts around left case/cover and the oild filter because Im trying to put the timing chain back on. It fell off the sprocket when I dropped in down in the engine. After removing those bolts, I cant get the thing to come off and I have tried tapping around the perimeter with a hammer. Is there something else to remove so it will come off?
  20. Hi I am doing a full rebuild on my bike and I want to know if it s OK to replace the Bottom End and Transmission bearings with the Timken bearings that a dedicated bearing store can match up. I do this with the frame and wheel bearings but Idk if the bearings in the engine are heat treated or something where I couldn't just use a 'normal' bearing. Just to clarify Timken are high quality bearings made in France/Brazil that supply the OEM bearing, Not the made in china aftermarket crap. They typically are little cheaper than getting 'genuine' KTM bearings. Thanks
  21. Hi guys got a few questions before I dive into a little project. I have some mechanical experience with cars, and working on my yz125 but aside from common service and topend rebuilds I've never dived into these dirt bike engines as far as the bottom end goes. So here's what I'm looking at, my brother in law has an 01 rm125 that as far as body and frame is almost perfect condition. He bought the bike a little over a decade ago and siezed the engine a year or so after he got it he believes from oil starvation. I haven't gotten the engine yet but it's all split open and disassembled. He wants to get into woods riding with me and I told him I'd take a look at it and see what I can do. So here's the questions, if the crank is toast what are my best options and what crank should I be looking for (I've heard to avoid the wiesco cranks)? I figured I'd send the cylinder off to millenium for a replate. Is there anything else I should be doing or buying (telling him to buy). Any reassembly tips? I appreciate it greatly guys, this is by far one of the best dirtbike communities out there!
  22. Thought I would share my bike rebuild I did on my 2001 CR125. The bike was in a rough shape when I bought it. Here is the only pictures I have when I bought the bike. I didnt take before pictures. The picture does not do enough justice on how bad this bike was. Sorry about the quality it is the picture the guy send me and he had a filter on it. Got the bike back and started working on it right away. It would start only by bump starting and would not go into the powerband so I started to tear the bike down.(I did a compression test and it was at 60PSI cold) after i pulled the motor I found the cylinder to have a crack in the exhaust side and pits all down the cylinder. It had a Wiesco piston and crank. The pits down the cylinder, the walls were scored. The steering kept grabbing while turing so I tore apart the steering stem and found the shape of the bearings... Took the dremel and cut out the bearing it would not break loose due to being rusted bad. On the frame and swingarm I took the sand paper to and sanded it down from 600 grit to 800,1000,2000,3000 grit. Then on the pipe it is a pro circuit pipe that was black and I took a sandblaster to it then sanded it down. I used a torch on the seams to give it the blue tint. Have the bike completly tore down cases were not split this time the crank seemed fine no slop in it move freely figured it would be fine for awhile... front and rear shocks were rebuilt no shock oil was in either front or rear shocks, soaked the chain in gear oil for 2 weeks and let air dry for 2 days, cleaned up the case halves with wd-40 and a scotch brite pad. I wish I would of took before pictures of everything the cases were caked in cow manure and grass took a long time to get the stains out of the cases and swing arms. Was time to put the bike all back together piston and cylinder came got a oem cylinder and wiesco piston. I did not put in a new crank more to that later. Got the bike back together did not buy any plastics or look good things yet I planned within a month after the build to get all the plastics and graphics. I wanted to focus on all money going in to the bikes motor and more important things. Went to do a break in cycle on the bike ran great had no signs of anything going to fail started first kick, clutch worked great after I used it a bit but then was riding down a gravel road still during the break in cycle and the bike locked up on me that ended the break in cycle. Took it back and started to pull the motor and found that the crank locked up on me. Split the cases pulled the crank and decided to split the crank apart to see out of curiosity what it was and found the big end bearing to be shelled. The marks on the crank were from splitting the crank used a air hammer to split it. Ended up going with a OEM Crank and another Wiesco Piston. scored the piston bad with the chunks of the bearing, cylinder was fine no scoring. Big mistake not replacing the Crank after the crank locked up I looked up wiesco cranks and they say they do not last at all. Got new plastics, seat cover and graphics also and finished up the bike project. I spent plenty of time on the bike making it look good and cleaning it up. It was my first bike rebuild I ever have done.
  23. So I am about to rebuild the top end bottom end, rejet the carb, clean the air filter, and put a new spark plug in my ‘05 yz85. (Along with all new fluids obviously) is there anything special I should do before I ride the bike after I do all those things? Or should I just put my 32:1 in it and ride? I have heard about like heat cycle and break in period for new top ends but I have heard good and bad about them and I don’t know enough to make an opinion on it. Does anybody have any tips?
  24. So I seen another post similar but couldn’t find the answer I was looking for. I need to rebuild my 2000 KX125 but I only found rebuild kits for 2003 and up. Are they a universal fit to the 00’-02’ models? If not what’s the best option to go with, I was thinking to order each bearing, crank, rod etc OEM through Motorsport or bike bandit but if anyone has a better idea or advice I’d love to hear it! Thanks
  25. Have a 1985 Cr80. Needs a full rebuild. Any ideas what matches up? Having a hard time finding a crankshaft...
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