Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'bottomendrebuild'.
We riding mid November and had to be pulled out of the woods! Coolant made it into cylinder and piston crack (144 kit). Eric Gorr covered all work related under warranty even though piston was close to a year old-stand up guy! Got cylinder back and was getting ready to assemble top end. Check for play in rod and noticed the rod and crank journal have turned blue. Don’t notice any up and down movement on rod but it has 32 hard hours and has definitely seen some heat!! Bottom end kit is a hot rods. Should I replace bottom end or run until I get play in rod? Check out the pics! Merry Christmas
HELP PLEASE!!! I just replaced the crank and main bearings on a 2010 KX250F with a Hot Rods crank and bearings kit. All went well during the rebuild thus far. When I attempt to torque (87inlb) the case bolts the crank starts to tighten up and gets worse at the case gap closes tighter. The bearings are seated all of the way. I've pulled the bearings and re-installed them to make sure that they were seated correctly. Upon inspection i noticed that the Hot Rods crank is wider than the OEM crank by roughly 1 mm. Total length is the same but the actual crank body is a little wider. I can see a very small gap between both sides of the crank and left / right case halves. However, the gap is a little bigger on the right side. The crank does not appear to be rubbing on the case though. See picture below. I can't find what the spec for this gap measurement is in the manual. My guess is that the crank being 1 mm wider than the stock is putting the bearings in a bind when I try to torque the 8mm case bolts. Any help would be appreciated. Not sure where to go from here and could use some advice.
So I bought a bike half disassembled with the rod seized (stupid I know but i got excited it was a cheap dirt bike) I tore it all apart and found the coolant o ring was ripped. I bought all new bottom and top end rebuild kit and put it all back together. I tried to start it up and it wouldn't go I had good compression but I think i had the clutch improperly adjusted I drained the oil so I could pull off the clutch cover and out pours most of my coolant with it... Is it possible the brand new water pump seal is bad? Or maybe the case is cracked honestly idk. Or since it leaked that much before the bike was even started is it probably that o ring didnt get put in right. I didn't see any oil in the coolant but since it never ran I don't think it would have any pressure to get it up there. Thanks in advance for any answers I get its my first bike ive ever owned and I would really like to ride it XD
In today's post, I'm very excited to share details about my new book,The Two Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook. As with all of my blogs and technical resources, my goal has been to bring riders clear and concise technical information. My two-stroke book exemplifies this and puts nearly 300 pages of engine building knowledge at your fingertips. I wroteThe Two Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook to be an all-encompassing guide on engine building. From the moment there is doubt about the engine's overall condition to the time the rebuilt engine is broken in, I give you a step-by-step guide to help you work towards a successful build. My aim was to create a definitive resource that hit on all the relevant topics you'll encounter as you proceed through an engine build and take any guesswork out of the equation. Throughout the book, engineering knowledge and practical experience are fused together to detail the how and why behind the way procedures are performed, parts are designed, and engine performance is affected. This is the most important and valuable aspect of the book, and it's something you won't find in a service manual. The book doesn't just tell you to bolt part A to part B, it teaches and explains the correct way assembly procedures should be performed and why it is necessary to do so. It also explains the intricate relationship between parts, where to look for wear patterns, and shows examples of worn and damaged components. If you're interested in making modifications to your engine or if you're curious about how certain modifications affect performance, I wrote an entire chapter dedicated to the subject. Within this chapter a discussion on how performance parts such as expansion chambers, port timing modifications, and cylinder heads alter overall engine performance is included and helpful suggestions are provided to aid you in choosing the correct components for your build, depending on your specific riding needs. If you have a thirst to learn more about how your engine works and a desire to correctly disassemble or assemble an engine to professional standards, you will benefit greatly from this book. Whether a complete beginner or a seasoned builder, with nearly 300 pages and 250 images worth of information, there is fresh and useful knowledge for everyone. There is also valuable material packed into this handbook that doesn't just pertain to the act of building the engine. I include instruction on diagnosing engine problems, sourcing and determining which parts to replace, using precision measuring tools, setting up your workshop, and additional tests and inspections that should be performed when preparing racing engines. If you just want to build your engine back up to stock spec, you are covered. If you want to go the extra mile and prepare a racing engine, you are also covered. In a way, this book allows you to choose your own ending by giving you all the tools and knowledge you need to complete your build at whatever level you decide. As a way to thank you for your support, we're offering TT members 15% off during a special TT pre-sale which runs from now until December 5th (when the book officially launches). Simply follow this link to learn more and order: ThumperTalk Pre-Sale Thanks again for all your support as we've grown DIY Moto Fix from an idea to a thriving community of riders who are passionate about making their machines perform better through their own hard work. Thanks for reading and have a great week. -Paul