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  1. We got my 4 year old daughter a jr50 for Christmas, my boyfriend has completely flipped the bike inside out. Yesterday we had our first crash into a fence realizing now that the handbrake is way to far for her to grab, the foot brake is inaccessible due to training wheels. any modifications or suggestions would be awesome
  2. So I stripped one of the screws on my reservoir cap for my front brakes. Anyone have any techniques for taking stripped screws out? I'm planning on replacing the whole reservoir cap with an aftermarket one, but I still need to get of the one I have on now. Thanks The aftermarket cap if anyone was curious: http://www.motosport.com/ride-engineering-front-brake-reservoir-cap?mmy=yamaha;yz450f;2017
  3. I just bought a 2003 kx250 a few weeks ago. The guy I bought it from said he dropped the bike on it's side, and after that, the front brakes would "act up," but after feeling them, I figured they would just need bled and would be fine. After getting the bike home, I bled the brakes and realized that they weren't just mushy, but they would only grab on for a second before losing pressure, even while holding the lever all the way down. Sometimes they grab a lot harder for a lot longer, but they mostly just squeeze for a quick second. Also, when attempting to bleed the brakes for the third time, I realized that every time I pulled the brake lever, bubbles would rise from the bottom of the reservoir, which I was thinking maybe meant the master cylinder was damaged causing it to pump air into the brake line, but I don't know. I don't really want to take my bike to a shop or to buy a whole new front brake setup, so any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks! (Edit: I've never dealt with dirt bike brakes, so this is all new to me)
  4. Hi guys , Mounting and dismounting the rear wheel I`ve broken the safety piece in the rear brake . I cannot see the piece in the Beta parts Diagram. It`s ok to ride without this piece ? Thanks
  5. I would like to preface this by saying that this might be somewhat of a rookie question, but never the less I am in search of answers. For some time now I have noticed that the front brake on my 2003 450 EXC has been fairly squeaky when coming to stops, even though I have hardly put any miles on the bike since I installed new pads several months ago. Upon closer inspection to the front caliper I noticed that the outside stationary brake pad does not appear to clear the thin channel located at the top of the brake pad for the rotor to pass through (picture provided). I would also like to add that I have an extra front caliper for my model KTM that also appears to have the same "issue", and this caliper is also the one I will be posting photos of, instead of the one currently mounted on the bike. So, is it possible that this is the source of the banshee screech my front brake seems to emit whilst coming to a stop? If so, does anyone know of any fixes for this issue, or is it something that I just shouldn't be worrying about? As a final side note, the only direct, let's call it, "performance" issue I have noticed is that my front brake is unable to keep the front wheel locked whenever I attempt to do burnouts. I could basically be squeezing the lever so hard that I feel like it's going to snap off in my hand, and the front wheel will either slowly roll, or sightly hop. Thanks to all in advance for any help or wisdom given, it is very much appreciated.
  6. Hello from Washington! i've been trying like crazy to get my '96 xr400 ride worthy again and the last thing i gotta fix is the front brakes. i got a master cylinder rebuild kit and got it installed and even got some fluid coming from the caliper bleeder but it seems kinda slow? brakes still don't work. i'm wondering how much fluid should i expect to come from the bleeder when i grab the brake lever? it took about 5 minutes for anything to come out, is that normal? or should it be shooting out with some force? i'm trying to figure out if my MC is toast or it i should start tearing into the caliper. also, before it gets said i do have a clymer manual.
  7. Recently purchased 2017 500 RRS. New to Beta. Only real gripe I have is mushy rear brake action. Doesn't relate to heat build up as it exhibits this characteristic on the stand immediately after a bleed. Seems like there's about 2 - 3 inches of travel in the rear pedal after initial rotor contact to full rock hard lock. That's a lot off mush. I've taken some of the mush out by adjusting pedal position but that's a work around which only takes advantage of very soft initial contact. Probably just going to glaze my pads, rotor and make it worse so just an experiment perhaps. Pads and rotor dry and clean. Using Motul 660 DOT 4. Satisfied no air in system. Have bled several times. Question.....is there something about the rear brake light set up (switch) which may contribute to this? Different "versions" of this model maybe with the earlier , or later, having substandard brake lines? Anything? Don't see where anyone else has experienced this. Are some calipers just weak due to some freak internal?
  8. Hello, I feel like I have read all the tips and tricks on the spongey/springy KTM front brake. I've got an 05 250 EXC and last summer I lost my rear brake during a ride, so I decided to do some maintenance this winter on both front and rear. Rear brake went smooth, new pads, rebuild kit on mc and caliper, fresh fluid, new lever bearings. Rear brakes now work great, but the front brakes are spongey/springy. I've tried just about everything from zip-tie to tapping on the caliper when bleeding, back bleeding with a syringe and traditional bleeding. What I am noticing now is, my lever gradually gets firm as it is pulled in but can still pull to the bar and never gets solid (the adjustment is all the way in so there is no free play), what I am seeing and hearing is the caliper kind of creak and flex. Note that this is just in the shop, not during movement. I've never had issues with bleeding brakes and I am 90% sure there is no air in the system. I'm about to the point of getting on ebay and getting a Nissin MC. Any suggestions on what to try before I try a Nissin? I'm not sure how I still have hair! Thanks!
  9. Hey boys, my rear tail light is stuck in the on position. I did some research the problem is usually the rear brake light switch on the drz-400. I have a 2002 model. I can not seem to find any wiring that is coming from the brake pedal area that I could even assume would be the brake light switch. Starting to wonder if my bike even has any. Can anyone here help me find it??
  10. Like the title asks, will a 2014 Husaberg FE350 Clutch & Brake Levers Fit on a 2014 KTM 350 XC-F? I found a great deal on some MSR front brake and clutch levers and was wondering if they would fit on the KTM, as Husaberg and KTM are virtually identical. Thanks
  11. Hello, I have a 1989 XR250R that I am going to convert to a dual sport. I ordered the Tusk lighting kit and the drum brake switch. However, I do not know how to install the front brake light switch. What part would I need and how would I install? Sorry I am a noob. Thanks
  12. On standard dirt bikes, you can simultaneously control the clutch, rear brake, and either throttle or front brake, without awkwardness. But throttle+front brake can be awkward, since one hand must both twist a grip and pull a lever. In particular, it's awkward to vary the twist while maintaining a steady unchanging pull on the lever. I'm considering alternative arrangements of the controls, and have 5 either-or questions. Think of all the different ways in which you need to simultaneously operate controls or rapidly alternate among them, for normal riding, difficult terrain, blipping the throttle while downshifting while decelerating using either or both brakes, and doing wheelies, stoppies, burnouts, and various other stunts. Q #0: Overall, if you had to choose, which option would be worse? A: clutch+front brake being awkward B: clutch+rear brake being awkward Q #1: Likewise, if you had to choose, which option would be worse? A: throttle+front brake being awkward (as is standard) B: throttle+rear brake being awkward Q #2: Think also of the need to shift hand position for sitting, standing, and shifting weight. Consider mounting the right lever on the twist grip, instead of on the non-twist part of the handlebar, thus allowing twisting the grip without moving the hand relative to the lever, since the lever will twist with the grip. Would this be better or worse than standard? Q #3: Consider moving the clutch control to a left grip twist, like right grip twist for throttle, thus freeing the left lever to use instead for the rear brake, which eliminates the need to use a foot for braking. The tradeoff is that it makes clutch+rear brake be awkward. Would this be better or worse than standard? (Ignore the problems of having a non-standard setup and having to re-train muscle memory.) Q #4: Consider doing as in Q #3, but swap the brake controls, to have left front and right rear. This makes clutch+rear brake and throttle+front brake be not awkward. The tradeoff is that it makes clutch+front brake and throttle+rear brake be awkward. Would this be better or worse than as in Q #3?
  13. Found this on the trail and realized it was mine. Tabs tore off. What’re my options? Weld on new ones?
  14. Now that I am rebuilding my 2001 DRZ400S due to a crash.. I want to be sure that when it happens again the bike will not be completely totaled. I cannot find any axle sliders for it because it does not have hollow axles. The only thing I have been able to find are engine guards that mount to the frame so I will for sure be getting those. So I just have questions on how to get axle sliders mounted on my bike, and I also will probably be getting a handbrake sometime in the near future. Would I be better off just swapping to an SM swingarm? I wish there was a document listing all the spec differences between the SM and S models. Any help would be great. Best regards.
  15. (At this point my front brake is strong, could do endos) So my front tire pops, I take the wheel off. Take it to a shop, they fix it, I bring it back, put it on the bike, disc slides in without issues, but now my front brake is so weak, and it comes to the handle bar quite easily. So I try to bleed them out, but can’t get them any better than what they were already at when I put the wheel back on. But they were perfect before? So why? It can’t be my pads, this is pissing me off. 06 rmz450
  16. Hi! I have a 2016 Kawasaki KX85 High Model. The front brake was all fine and hard as it should. I had a crash, so my dad switched out the front brake lever. For some reason, after that, the front brake has been very soft. Now I can press the lever all the way into the grips. My other friend has the same bike, but a little older (2014 Kx85 high model), his front brake was much better. Does anyone know what I can do? It may be air in the line, but I'm not sure. The brake changed after we switched the lever. Can someone help? Thanks
  17. Dear fellow enthusiasts, Over production years, have there been changes to front brake calipers and the forks? I have a pair of forks and original front brake calipers that don't seem to fit by about half a centimeter length wise. If the top fixating hole of the caliper braket is aligned with its respective match on the fork, then the bottom holes don't connect because the calipers are resting on the disk brake. I'm wondering, what's my best solution.. which year fork / brake caliper should I proceed to procure? According to this description, these calipers should fit all production year XR600's: LINK to EBAY Is that legit at all? Price is good 🙂 Can anyone share their knowledge in this regard? I cannot safely say which years either of these components are, as I am going through a difficult restoration. Pictures are attached 🙂 cheers!
  18. I just got a new dirt bike, but I'd like to adjust the rear brake pedal. The rear brake feels more instant than I'm used to. I know how to raise and lower the pedal, but is there a way that I can add free play? I want to have more space between "not braking" and "locked up rear brakes". I can still ride the bike as it is now, I'm just used to more play in the break pedal. Thanks for your help.
  19. Im looking for a front brake caliper rebuild kit for my '85 RM125. I can't find anything besides an incomplete kit on eBay which lacks some of the parts I need. Does anyone know of a kit that will fit my bike or a company that still makes a kit for it? Any help is appreciated, thanks.
  20. I have a 2018 SSR 125 TR and I'm trying to buy a hydraulic brake switch for a brake light. I'm not sure what size I need is it 10x1.25 or 10x1.00?
  21. At 180 hours, I looked at the brake pads on my 300 and decided that they were visibly worn. Not worn to the "throw out spec" in the manual, but clearly warn. Time to buy some spares so I can pop the old ones out anytime I want. So I called my dealer to make sure they had them in stock before I drove out. He asked "KTM or Gelfer?" and I said "what?" followed by "what is the difference?" with the answer that the Gelfers look the same, wear the same, work the same, and may even be made in the same factory, but are missing the orange box. Oh and one other minor thing, the KTM front pads sell for about $100 a set, and the Gelfers sell for $35. Is there a real difference? Or is the KTM markup really that bad? I have noticed (over two KTMs) that prices are a bit higher than other brands, but only by 20% or so, and it never was an issue. But this is a 300% markup over retail.
  22. I bought a used bike online, 2002 KX125, it doesn't have a front brake line or front brake lever/master cylinder, but it does have the brake caliper and brake disc (stock Nissin brake). So I put a ad on a local classifieds site saying I need a brake and someone offered me the brake line, master cylinder, and brake lever off a 2007 CR125 (see attached pictures). So what I want to know is, will the brake line from the Honda bike fit my KX? Is the banjo bolt that attaches brake line to the brake caliper the same size? This is my first 'real' bike so I don't much about the technical stuff like this, and I couldn't find any information online regarding the size of the banjo bolt on the different makes.
  23. Anyone local running the Ox-brake as an LHRB? Seriously considering getting one, especially for steep downhill, but was curious as to longevity, if it gives adequate braking power, and also if it easily gets snagged? Looks like they're located right in Lakewood, so that seems like a plus. http://www.ox-brake.com/
  24. Hi all, Looking at a couple of LHRB options. Has anyone compared the Clake SLR (or any Clake?) to an OX brake? Looking at turning my bike into more of a mountain goat and I think one of these setups would be the icing on the cake for a few uses. (wheelies, hill stops/starts, bulldogging) Obviously the Clake looks like the premium product, and more ergonomic, but I am liking the simplicity of the OX setup, the clake also looks very bulky and I am betting I will have trouble fitting it on my bars. These will be used with my stock magura hydraulic manual clutch. A rekluse is not on the cards. I also will be retaining the foot brake. Clake: OX: So simple.
  25. Hey TT! So I have been having problems with the rear brake on my 2006 S; it will work immediately after bleeding the system but loses stopping power after a few pumps of the brake pedal. Just today I rebuilt the rear master cylinder (replaced all seals and cleaned the all parts with brake cleaner), but the problem persisted even after that, the brake worked for the first few applications and then lost almost all of its power. It seems that air is getting into the system somewhere and I can say without a reasonable doubt that it isn't the master cylinder since I've just rebuilt it. What is the next most likely place air is getting in? The lines are quite dirty and I'd guess they've never been replaced since the bike was made (06) Should I start there? It's a good excuse to with to steel braided lines haha! The reservoir is also looks a bit corroded and warped at the top where the reservoir cap goes on, so it's possible there isn't a good seal there.
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