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Found 33 results

  1. I just bought a 2003 kx250 a few weeks ago. The guy I bought it from said he dropped the bike on it's side, and after that, the front brakes would "act up," but after feeling them, I figured they would just need bled and would be fine. After getting the bike home, I bled the brakes and realized that they weren't just mushy, but they would only grab on for a second before losing pressure, even while holding the lever all the way down. Sometimes they grab a lot harder for a lot longer, but they mostly just squeeze for a quick second. Also, when attempting to bleed the brakes for the third time, I realized that every time I pulled the brake lever, bubbles would rise from the bottom of the reservoir, which I was thinking maybe meant the master cylinder was damaged causing it to pump air into the brake line, but I don't know. I don't really want to take my bike to a shop or to buy a whole new front brake setup, so any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks! (Edit: I've never dealt with dirt bike brakes, so this is all new to me)
  2. Hey Guys - Yesterday while washing her I noticed the reservoir window on the front master cylinder has a bunch of little spider cracks on it. Does anyone know if this is just a plastic cover over a thicker plastic piece or is this the only barrier between the fluid and the outside world? if this is the only barrier it is reasonable to believe its letting small amounts of Air into the reservoir? Also anyone out their have any suggestions for aftermarket caliper and master cylinder?? Figure if the cracks are letting small amounts of AIR in the master then i need to replace it so id rather just upgrade.. I have been trying to up the stopping power of my front brake on my YZ and i'm still not happy with it. I really want rock solid throw you over the bars power with an easy pull but cant seem to find it. I have already upgraded to a oversize rotor, Galfer stainless line w/ CR style conversion, New EBC Pads and fresh fluid from Motul Right now for steep drops or ravines i'm literally having to squeeze the lever as hard as i can to get it to hold tight Any advice is appreciated
  3. Good evening. Rode in a dual sport event this weekend and on the last leg of the first day's trip (about 15 miles) I was doing about 50 mph the whole way on a paved hilly road on my 2013 WR250R. About a mile before my destination it felt like the bike was powering down (thought maybe fuel injection or throttle issue). Eventually stopped and saw smoke coming from front brake caliper. Loosened the bleed valve and steam came out. I'm guessing that I must have bent the front disk slightly after rear ending someone in a mudhole and the high speed heated up the pads and eventually the brake fluid which expanded the fluid and pressed the pads together forcing the bike to slow down (which felt like a power issue-engine bogging down). I plan to replace the pads, disk and caliper seals (parts #5 below). Are there any other parts I should consider replacing in the caliper? Thanks All.
  4. Hey all, picked up a used 250x about 6 weeks ago. Brakes have been a bit weak IMO. I've only been out on it 3 times. I replaced fork seals after first ride due to leaking seals and figured brakes were weak because of oil dripping on front brakes. I then had my mechanic replace the brake fluid after my second ride. It seemed better, but now after the 3rd ride, they just seem.....squishy and weak. What are my next steps? Brake pads have life left in them, but thinking I should replace them as preventative and relatively cheap maintenance. Wondering if in addition I should get stainless steel brake lines and maybe new rotors? Any help/advice would be great. I realize that the X is known for weak brakes, but looking for best remedies/steps/options.
  5. I just recently bought a thumpstar tsx 125 did alot of research an found they r decent pit bikes i bought one brand new and had carb problems idle problems i got that solved and took it on the first ride after and my back braked siezed wen using it. It is like it locked up now why did this happen and how can u get it unlocked or fix this any help apriciated. Thanks also i am haveing trouble get response on my throttle it seem delayed or i have to start really lightly and easy the gas on it
  6. Hello fellow riders. there is a trend that i see with Japanese brands which is they love to use same parts or designs on different bikes even from different manufacturers. Which in the end works for us customers. We can find same parts cheaper or more avaible but labeled for another bike. Esspecially in markets where DRZs are rare and/or discontinued (Europe etc) Also for bearings seals and o-rings. most of them are off the shelf products. i like to buy my parts from reputable manufacturers like skf-koyo-ariete when you buy those as a "kit" from a company that doesnt produce any of that stuff you often pay for package than product itself and theyre mostly inferior. So i will try to list the parts that i know compatible with drz400 and if you can chime in on this post with your knowledge i will add those as well. DRZ400SM --------------- -Front forks: Looks like same unit as on honda CR and suzuki rmz bikes (maybe sm travel is shorter) but i think fork internal spares are compatible. (Need confirmation on fork covers, not sure bottom lugs are same with every bike uses this shock. its near impossible to find fork covers for drz even in aftermarket plastics kits) Ariete"Ari" Seals 2007 ARI.117 size and model: DC4Y - 48 X 58,2 X 8,5/10,5 prtno. 51153-28H30 2007 ARI.126 size and model: Y-1 - 48 X 58,5/62 X 6/11,5 prtno. 51173-28H30 (Dust seal for ARI.117) 2005-2006 ARI.105 size and model: TC4 - 47 X 58 X 10 prtno. 51153-37F80 2005-2006 ARI.106 size and model: SG5 - 47 X 58,5/62 X 6/10,3 prtno. 51173-37F80 (Dust seal for ARI.105) (not sure if drz went to 48mm forks on 2007. tc4 model has one steel spring where as dc4y has 2, also different design on sealing surfaces. i assume its for choice of fork sticktion vs sealing power. Im attaching catalogue.) SKF seals Kit47S Kit47SHD (labeled as "Heavy Duty") SKF Mud Scrapers MS 47S Bushings SKTE/TI 47S -Front brake disc Same hole pattern as Yamaha wr and yz lines of bikes -Front brake pads: Theese exact calipers and pad design used all across dirtbikes from japan and even on gasgas and beta bikes.(too many to list) EBC FA185R for sintered or FA185X for carbon pads (thats the brand that i use you may contribute with other brands part number as well) -Front brake caliper rebuild kits for pretty much all Japanese dirt bikes of the era, can be further detailed. Rm125 Rm250 Rmz450 Rmx450 (2011-2017) dr650 are the ones for suzuki -Front master cylinder: "Road" type master cylinder with bigger reservoir than most dirt bikes. suzuki part fiche shows it has the same piston as intruder1400 cruiser and dr 125 and dr350 bikes -Radiator Louver Same with rm125(till 2008) and rm250 (till 2005) range can be more than that. checking on european resources. -Rear shock S and SM units have different part number. probably sm has shorter travel. since parts fiche doesnt show any inner parts cant confirm suzuki-wide compatibility. But its a pretty wide spread shock produced by showa and used on many bikes arround (with different lenghts of travel and valving etc) Needs more info on bushings and seals and o-rings. -Rear Sprocket Same bolt pattern as rmz ones. -Front sprocket Needs more info -Bearings Steering stem bearings: same across most Suzuki dirt bikes from 1991 to 2019 (specs are welcome to make it easier to find bearings from other manufacturers like skf) Engine bearings: (needs further info. while some bearings are standart off the shelf products some of them are produced just for suzuki with 1milimeters of difference than standart sized ones. thus fitting anything other than oem impossible. size info needed for standard bearings. Swing arm and wheel bearings: As most of us know drz sm uses old rm125 and rm250 swingarm. Thus shares bearings bushings and spacers. Detailed sizing info needed for aftermarket bearing compatibility. (same with wheel bearings) -Seals & O-rings Countershaft seal: 30x40x6mm Countershaft bushing o-ring: D:2.5,ID:21 Catalogs guides charts and manuals for drz : https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HtnVHyxvNvFAG_MEUJwffJwJThD-AIVn Contribitions are more than welcome !! have a good day and ride safe
  7. my rear brake is getting soft during downhill i have changed the fluid and clean the caliper pin but still it gets soft while going on long descents the pad is like almost gone but is till in the clear according to the manual i am going to change pads and am looking for stainless pin's any other thing this could be o its a 2016 te300
  8. So I wanted to increase the rear brake effectiveness on my XT. They're good as they are but could always be better if somebody is laying on the track in your line. Then it hit me like a two-ton heavy thing: Swap the rear brake arm! That's a remedy for touchy brakes that lock up too easily as well as for bikes needing more stopping power. Experiment with different lengths until you find one you like.
  9. Hiya, I need a bit of help with finding a caliper adapter. I've spent a good few weeks trying to find an adapter for my Husqvarna FE 2015 to fit a cheap used 4 pot from like a honda tokico or whatever else I can find on ebay. Simply because I can't afford the best Motomaster or Beringer setup. Now, my problem is that the only axial to radial adapter I can find are either horribly expensive or don't fit my bike. That's when I stumbled upon this thread The problem though, is that the OP mentions finding someone on ebay, who made the adapter for him as a special one off. I've been trying my best to find this seller with no luck. My requirements are a bit annoying as I got my hands on a used 310mm Beringer disc and two sets of Alpina wheels (4 wheels) for 220quid. Every adapter/bracket on ebay is for 320mm discs. (which, if they were axial to radial brackets, I could easily grind down a few mm to fit my 310mm disc) Could anyone help me find where I could get a custom adapter made for under 100 quid or a standard item on ebay that would help me a lot. I even considered learning cad and designing my own, however then my problem is that I don't have a CNC machine and don't know of any shops near me (I live in Scotland). As a side note I also found this brake kit However 100 quid for a full braking setup? Sure its from china but this just looks too good to be true. I would try my luck with this however ideally I need a solution before the 21st of September.
  10. This is a front brake line off of a husqvarna tx300i. The is the top end of the line that goes to the master cylinder. The flared end that goes inside the threaded collar is what broke off. I'm trying to avoid paying $160 for an OEM line. I thought I could take it in to a hydraulic hose shop and get a fitting put on. But that has proven to be harder than I thought. A couple of places I've been to say they dont have those fittings and dont touch DOT stuff. Any thoughts on where I can go to have a fitting like this put on? Or how I can do it myself? Any reason why Husqvarna would not use a banjo set up on top as they did on the caliper end? Could I get away with buying a cheaper hose with banjo fittings on both ends and putting in a banjo bolt on the top? Just looking for options much much cheaper before I got OEM.
  11. I purchased an 87 XR600R with a front caliper that locked up once enough pressure was applied. Probably due to dirt / corrosion in the piston housing. I'm wanting to replace the caliper with a new one, but can't find anything online that would fit. Does anyone know what other calipers will fit the bike? The forks and disk is factory. Thanks in advance!
  12. Been reading here for years and sure you covered this but can’t find it. I have a 2001 Xr 200 and want to upgrade the front end to disc . Would a 2005 crf 230 complete front work?
  13. When the bike is cold the front brake seems normal, after you ride it and get it hot it seems really tight. Cold it would have like 15mm of travel from free to locking the brake up, warm its like 8mm of travel (guesstimates). I've checked to see if the front brake is dragging and it is not, I'm just worried that's where I'm headed. The front pads are wearing even and the caliper slides nicely on the slid pins. Think bleeding the brakes and getting new fluid would help? Maybe a master going bad? Piston sticking?
  14. Found this on the trail and realized it was mine. Tabs tore off. What’re my options? Weld on new ones?
  15. so i just bought a 120cc pitter and practiced wheelies for about a week. Im already good at wheelies on my bicycle and can hold a balance point wheelie using rear brake for a solid 30 seconds. but on my pitter i can get up to balance point but my body just wont let me tap my rear brake when i need it. the only reason i dont loop out every time is because i drop the throttle and let engine brake take over. im not always so lucky tho
  16. I was riding the other day and the front brake went out on me. No stopping power at all. The lever pulls all the way to the grip easier than the clutch lever. Replaced the brake fluid, cleaned the master cylinder, and bled the brakes (I think) and can't get it to build any pressure at all. Do i need a master cylinder rebuild kit? seems odd that it quit out of nowhere
  17. 2004 WR250F Doing some catchup work, rebuilt forks, new seals n bushings, new front tire. I got down to the last item: replace the oiled up brake pads, and I couldn't get the cover screw out so I could remove the pad pin. Grrrr. So I hit it with PB Blaster, .....nothing. Cleaned it and hit it with heat, ....nothing. So now the flat blade slot is starting to get wallowed out and the screwdriver is slipping off. Im thinking about welding on a sacrifice screwdriver and using a wrench on that..... or drilling it out. Recommendations appreciated. Never had problems with that cover screw before.
  18. Hey guys, so I got my bike back from my mechanic a few days ago and then he left to California with another one of his riders for a month or so, and he rebuilt the motor...but forgot to bleed my front brake lol. SO, I've been messing with this thing for about a week now and a one broken banjo bolt, one seized bleed port bolt and a master cylinder rebuild later I am back to where we started. We have been using the traditional squeeze and open then close the bleed port to try and grab some of the air on the way out but that hasn't been working. We also tried bleeding it at the banjo bolts with no avail. I work as a mechanic at a bike shop so i typically know what I'm doing with this type of stuff but this has me stumped. I think what i need to do next is to completely drain the whole system and use a syringe or something to fill it from the bottom up, but I'd like to avoid that if possible. If anyone knows anything that i may have missed please let me know! Thanks -JT
  19. As I was inspecting my new-to-me bike that I just purchased, I noticed there is a grove on the back side of my front brake rotor that goes completely around it, and you can feel it with your finger nail. I have noticed some poor performance, but I figured it was because of the new pads that the previous owner installed just before I bought it hadn't seated yet. However, I've ridden a couple times and it doesn't seem to get much better, if any better at all. Is that enough to explain why when I pull in the brake as hard as I can, it only slows me down a little, instead of going into a stoppie and over the bars (as I wish it would)? Should I look into buying a brand new rotor? I have no pictures of it, I'll try to post some when I can.
  20. (At this point my front brake is strong, could do endos) So my front tire pops, I take the wheel off. Take it to a shop, they fix it, I bring it back, put it on the bike, disc slides in without issues, but now my front brake is so weak, and it comes to the handle bar quite easily. So I try to bleed them out, but can’t get them any better than what they were already at when I put the wheel back on. But they were perfect before? So why? It can’t be my pads, this is pissing me off. 06 rmz450
  21. Now that I am rebuilding my 2001 DRZ400S due to a crash.. I want to be sure that when it happens again the bike will not be completely totaled. I cannot find any axle sliders for it because it does not have hollow axles. The only thing I have been able to find are engine guards that mount to the frame so I will for sure be getting those. So I just have questions on how to get axle sliders mounted on my bike, and I also will probably be getting a handbrake sometime in the near future. Would I be better off just swapping to an SM swingarm? I wish there was a document listing all the spec differences between the SM and S models. Any help would be great. Best regards.
  22. My rear brake does not even stop my rear tire from the slight rotation while in neutral, revving the bike. I have replaced the brake fluid with the DOT 4 (suggested Suzuki brake fluid), bleed the line countless times, and still to no avail, absolutely no brake. So I believe the problem lies in the caliper piston? Has anyone ever experienced a bad piston?
  23. Hello, I have an xr250R and need to replace to front braking system in its entirety. Im UK based and im finding it hard to get hold of what I need. Is anyone able to point me in the right direction?
  24. Hello Everyone, I Am trying to change my sprocket from a 14 tooth to a 13 tooth on my 2016 CRF250L to get a little more low end power since I ride about 80/20 dirt/road. I have watched some YouTube videos and I see it shouldn't be that hard. I was wondering though, Will I have loosen the back tire/chain tensioner? It looks to me like I could just take of the OEM sprocket off the chain and put the new one on but that's not what I'm seeing online. (Please do note I'm only changing the front sprocket). If anyone has a good/clear directions of how to do this change I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks! ALSO since I'm making a post anyway. Does anyone else's brakes sort off squeak/grind after riding a lot off road? It seems like dirt may have gotten in front brake. The brakes only have 350 miles on them so I know there not bad. Any info helps!!!
  25. First off thanks everyone for the great forum. My 2019 enduro r is giving my some unexpected soft brake lever action in hard braking situations. Front brake is the worst. The lever doesn’t go completely to the hand grip but almost. If I give it a few pumps it goes back to normal but then slowly comes back to severe brake fade territory. I’ve bled there lines multiple times but haven’t reverse bled. No air in the bleed off as far as I can tell. Bleeding so far has not helped. This started with about 400 miles on the clock and happens with every ride. I ride Once a week. Wtf. Could something be going on with the abs? I ride mostly in mode 2. Hopefully I'm not posting from the hospital next time haha!
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