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  1. Hello Thumper Talk Community! This is my first post here, just created my account a few minutes ago. I apologize if I violate any type of forum rules or formatting, but I'm sure I'll learn as I go. To begin with: I've been riding dirtbikes since I was 8. I am currently a 19 year old University student in upstate NY, and I am riding a 2006 Honda XR650L that I bought myself when I turned 16. I've attached pictures of it (taken today, as I wrote this post) to illustrate the condition it is in, what it looks like, etc. While I have been riding for an extremely long time, and consider myself a safe and competent rider, I have a very limited mechanical knowledge of motorcycles. My dad introduced me to bikes and taught me to ride, but my riding experience over the years has been on my own, and my mechanical knowledge is self-taught and basic maintenance of my bike at best - nothing fancy whatsoever. He and I don't really speak anymore, and therefore I don't have any type of guidance or reference points when it comes to bike mechanics (or mechanics of any kind, for that matter). Nevertheless, I am very interested in modifying and improving my bike and possibly beginning a project to convert it into a café racer or scrambler-esque bike. I rarely go off-road anymore and use my XR as a daily driver, but I find the traction of off-road tires to be favorable and have never had street tires. Therefore I'm debating whether or not to keep my off-road tires (or get different ones), making the bike more of a scrambler - or to use street tires making it more of a café racer. If I'm using terminology wrong and have no idea what the f**k I'm talking about, then please always feel free to correct me. I am using Daniel Peter's custom XR650L café racer, and Ready Moto's brat/cafe racer as inspiration. I think both are beautiful bikes/rebuilds, and want something very similar as my final product. However, I think Daniel Peter's bike is tricked out in a very expensive (and unnecessary to me) way (i.e. antelope seat, c'mon dude). I also want to preserve my passenger seat and pegs, if possible. I have absolutely no idea where to start, and have no current access to welding or fabrication machines of any kind. I'm asking for a full walkthrough and as much help as you all are willing to give me. Because I'm in school, I have a very limited budget. Basically, I'm willing to do my short term modifications and enhancements, and probably put the conversion project on hold until the spring. This is particularly dependent upon the advice I get. I don't need the bike as much in the fall, because I live on my college campus, but it's nice to have around in working condition (I know the project would require pulling it all apart and not riding for a while). So if any part I need for this is expensive but necessary, I will save up for it and make it happen. If there are cheaper, reasonable alternatives to achieve the same goal, then I will do that. I'd appreciate all advice along those lines. I just replaced my battery two weeks ago, and am going to attempt to replace the brake pads (a simple job, I know, but with luck/mechanical ability like mine, it can be quite daunting!) The chain is new, the frame has been reinforced at certain points, but everything else is stock! What I Want Out of This Bike (Short Term) 1. I'd like to put the battery underneath the seat. 2. I want to clean it up, particularly the rusted parts, and possibly repaint/replace them to make sure the bike looks better. (Need guidance for this, as I'm unsure how to remove rust/how to go about repainting parts - why I posted pics, so hopefully this community can identify where my "problem areas" are on this bike). 3. Learn how to properly winterize and maintain bike. Currently I check oil regularly, fill it with premium gas, lube the chain once or a week or more, and wash it (probably not enough) and spray WD-40 on various pieces. If I'm an incompetent fool, tell me. 4. Replace footpegs, throttle, handgrips. 5. If feasible with my current bike, put in a circular (brighter) headlight instead of the stock square one. Am willing to get rid of red plastic housing, or find an alternative. What I Want Out of This Bike (Long Term) 1. A full café-racer type conversion, styled similar to what I linked above. My dream "bought brand new" bike currently is a Triumph Bonneville converted to a scrambler (provided a pic) to let y'all know what I'm interested in, aesthetically. 2. Switch out stock carb (40mm) with a 41mm Keihin FCR-MX flat slide. I've been doing lots of reading, and it looks like this will drastically improve bike performance and throttle response in many ways, not limited to AFR and starting. 3. Repaint the sucker! Sorry for the giant wall of text, I appreciate those who have read this far. Please ask any questions, give comments, critiques, advice, anything! I look forward to hearing what the TT Community has to say. Cheers! John
  2. Hey TT, so over this summer I'm planning on building a 250 two stroke. I'm going to use this bike for both the track and desert riding, specifically in Glamis, CA. I have a few questions for this. Would this be a viable option for the dunes in comparison to just buying a stock 450f? I'm wondering if it would be a good, viable option for the dunes, especially with going huge with jumps. Would it be better to buy an older 450f and trick it out a bit? What can I add or do to the bike to make it so it keeps cool in Cali heat(most likely going to go higher compression ratio than stock)? Which older (early 2000s) 250 two strokes are the best for building/turning into a solid bike? I'm thinking a 2000-2001 CR250. Any comments or thoughts on this will be much appreciated. I can also answer any questions you guys have. Thanks!
  3. Hey everyone, I had an idea for the ultimate/ my dream electric dirt bike of the future. An electric dirt bike with enough power to match the output of all dirt bikes ever made. This would mean that you could map different dirt bike characteristics into 1, creating the dirt bike to end all dirt bikes. Imagine being at a moto park and wanting to ride a 125 2t for a few laps and then, with the push of a button being able to change to the characteristics/power of a 250 4t. Or if you wanted the characteristics of a Wr450 for some DS action to get to a track/trail and then switching to a yz450 for the track. This would mean that you could literally buy 1 dirt bike and never buy one again. Also allowing a beginner to have the same bike throughout their dirt riding "career" and be able to move up in power and delivery for free. The extreme tuneability of electric motors could also allow users to create their own engine maps, specific for their riding style and/or terrain. (ie. having a 125 2t with the amazing top end of the engine with an extra bump in the low end). This plus the inherent benefits of electric motor: operates cooler, silent, low maintenance, max hp and torque at 0rpm and how "green" they are, would make this bike an absolute beast with pretty much no government restriction. Obviously there would be restraints in the frame, tyres, suspension (although electric suspension like in road bikes could fix this) and battery life but I believe in the not so distant future this would be achievable and would be pretty amazing Don't get me wrong, I love my dirt bikes, 2 strokes specifically but electric bikes are the future and the faster we except this the faster this could be a reality. Everyone seems to be afraid of these new bikes but I think that if we embrace them we can allow a whole new era of dirt riding to happen. Just my $0.02, feel free to point out flaws/ completely shoot this entire thing down or add your own ideas below.
  4. Hello all, i am having trouble with my rm250 (2000) power valve, i have almost everything complete motor wise but getting the powervalve put back together is proving to get the best of me, i cannot figure out how the spring (17) sits exactly when re assembly. any help is greatly appreciated.
  5. I'm looking at doing a disc brake swap on my CRF230F but I'm not 100% sure how to go about it and I'd like to get some clarification. I've already lined up a blown 150R that I can get for cheap, so my plan is to use the wheels and disc brake setup from the 150R on the 230. I know I will need to hack and weld parts to make it work, but that's fine by me. I would appreciate any info on anything I should use or do, or if I should even use the 150R setup at all. Thanks
  6. March 2016 I bought my first motorbike A CRF50 May 2016 I moved to a 2.5acre block and started creating jumps for my level of riding I really tried to make the most of the natural features that were hidden beneath the grass/weeds but I really just ended up adding to a worm line that we constantly rode and added lip to sections that we saw fit. Straight / last corner First Jump Sandy burm Exit burm, minor woops into second jump Second Jump followed by small burm Small lip into into uneven decent into the last burm/beginning Perhaps this is a good start for a youngster on his/her first bike I failed to mention that I was born in 1995. This track was fun to start with but it was not long until this simply wasn't enough I started to build this line which opposed the direction of the original track. But the idea was to jump this, hit the small burm and then go onto hit a big jump.. But I got distracted by what I accidentally created. A little dodgy I know, this is the creation of when you can no longer be bothered digging and use random items to fill the gaps. Imagining is a great thing to do and to visualize is even better ! I took photos of my jumps and drawn on them with my smart phone. Little did I know this was going to be the most crashed jump of my life (so far) This was the beginning of my laziest effort. Pallet down ramp. These are pretty great if done well. -Level the area for stable stacking of pallets -Use pallets to fill most of desired down ramp space. -Then put any type of thick wood on top (helps spread the load and not crack pallets) -Then carpet so soil doesn't fall through the cracks -Last add soil/clay and lots of it ! I learnt the hard way (not the greatest effort on the jump but it puts the size in perspective a little) This jump quickly became our favourite And the little track quickly got forgotten and over grown. My lust for a bigger and greater jump and had clouded my mind... And with bigger jumps you soon require a bigger bike and this is when I upgraded to the KLX110L 2016 My stupidness resulted in this creation It stood at about 6ft And shook in the breeze After the result of poor pallet down ramp I realised making these sketchy jumps is dangerous and requires a lot of maintenance. So I contacted a lot of earth moving companies. And tried finding companies that were working on clay sites. This was free for me and should be for you. Each load of dirt 15-20t costs roughly $450 to dump in some parts of Australia. So I offered free dumping within my yard, I get dirt for jumps and they save a lot of money, win win. My first load arrived, roughly 17t of dirt.... it sounds like a lot but it really is not. I got these big crate boxes from work and screwed a door across the top of them to help spread the load. The crates are only there to try and save anybody that is lacking the correct speed. Progress was slow, but I needed to move this first load up against the crates as much as possible to allow the track to back in closer to the pallets. When I cant be bothered digging or don't have the dirt. I like to visualize what it will be like in the end Finally destroyed the old ramp and created a new one with the most desired material. That's what 4 days afterwork of my digging looks like (4 hours a night), worth the giant blisters This is about 22-26ft jump which is a good/fun size I believe. This is currently where I am at but I do think my plans are pretty great This is the plan for the future Apologies for not numbering the above photo The yellow jump with the 16 beside it is my pallet jump which is jump #1 And the second large jump of 21ft is the orange one that follows and that is jump #2 From now I ask that you use your imagination and hopefully can figure out which ones are which in regards to the following images. This one is Jump # 3 Note the burm will not swing around the tree and go to the left. This will be a bit of a hip and send you into a right hand turn quickly followed by a left as shown on the birds eye view. #4 is going to be a pretty hectic step down that I am already scared of the idea ! #5 is going to be a 25ft hip #6 is going to be roughly a 20ft triple (rollable) #7 will be a 17-18ft tabletop #8 and #9 need to swap as I think double-table-double would flow a lot nicer rhythm wise.... #11 a good sized triple roughly 18ft Into a hopefully very vertical burm Then into a +20ft hip to finish it off through the trees Hope you've enjoyed this read so far. I will keep you updated with the progression of the rest of the track. Please feel free to give me tips (other than spelling) in regards to the track and ideas. Cheers Jackson
  7. This is going to be a long read so put on your &%$#@!ing helmets and lets get into it. A friend and I convinced another friend of ours to come ride with us one day. He rode around on my 01 yz80 and was instantly hooked. We took him riding a few more times until he finally made the decision to buy his own bike. Two days after that we went and picked up a 2001 KX125 for $300. Oh boy, a 300 dollar bike this will be fun. What makes it better is the previous owner's mind was fried from drug abuse. This poor bike looked like nagasaki had just hit. Lets just start off with the first view of her. Quite a sight it is.. Gotta love all the over spray. We did ask him why everything has extra paint on it (including inside the air box) and his response was gold. He told us you don't need to take anything off to paint if you're good. uhm, that explains why it looked like trash. Anyways, we got the bike back to the house safe and sound then started taking inventory. First thing that was bought for the bike was a bolt kit and gasket kit. No matter what those will be needed. There are a few key parts that are needed to get this 125 back to running status. First is the head. Apparently the previous owner has it but couldn't locate it after an hour of searching. Lets rack up this build budget! We also need the stator cover and a stator (pretty sure he "lost" it so the copper could be sold for money for drugs). Flywheel is missing. Powervalve assembly is gone as well. The kickstarter lever is missing but the gear assembly is there. Also needs a crank case and clutch cover. We have the clutch basket which is a surprise. The previous owner gave us an extra crankshaft because the current one is not in correctly...? Oh and no front wheel or expansion chamber, but those can come later down the line. There may be a few other pieces we are missing but we will go down that road when we start digging into the motor. First thing that had to be done was get rid of the poorly done paint job. We figured this was the best time to do this because the bike was just a frame. The front forks, rear shock, air box, and sub-frame were removed to start the process. We spent about 8 hours total using wire brush bits on an electric drill to remove the paint. For the smaller parts that could not be reached some 60 grit sandpaper was used. Over the hours the frame, sub-frame, and rear shock started to clean up nicely. The front forks managed to miss most of the paint so those were set aside. Oh did i mention he painted the seat? At this time my friend decided to get his use out of his parts washer. He brought in some parts that were just plain nasty looking. After a rinse or two they started to come out looking like proper parts. As he was pulling out some of the parts he noticed they weren't for his bike. Whoops. Back to the frame. Once it was finally down to bare metal it was time to go hard in the paint. Get it? no? okay, anyways it was paint time! The owner of this bike has a special touch to his paint that makes it stand out. Or maybe I just suck at painting. First coat was black primer. After the primer dried it was time for the main event. Before you tell me about the color, yes, I informed my friend Kawasaki's are normally green. The color came out beautiful. The final thing to this date was putting the rear shock, sub-frame, and forks back on. Once we had all this done it was time to grab another beer and make a plan of action. After talking it over we are taking a day break then going straight into the fun part, splitting the cases and making sure everything is up to standards. After that its time to put her back together and hope it starts. Luckily for me i get that day break to work on my cr250, but that is a different topic that i'll save for another day. I will be posting more progress here as it comes since my friend does not like using forums (what a whacko). Feel free to enlighten us on some tips and tricks for our adventures or just to say his paint color is wrong. Thanks for reading! More to come!
  8. Hello, new poster with a new build and looking for insight. I've been working on this 74 Honda 350XL for a while and was hoping for some help as far as a potential fork swap or disc conversion. I want to end up with a nice scrambler build that will be a 50% street 50% dirt capable bike. Bike History: Picked it up for $500 about 8 months ago, went through the engine replaced gaskets and cases, added a mikuni 36, new header from xlint performance, open air intake, antigravity battery, new seat, bars, grips, light, signals. Eventually want to have a nice rebuild to rear frame. It came with the rear shocks on it and they feel good but not against changing them out. Won't let me upload a picture but I will try to figure that out. Thanks for any help available as far a s a fork swap or disc brake option. Also open to other good ideas. BabyKing
  9. Pictures of the restoration of a 1995 XR600. Bought the bike for 300$ on craigslist. I decided to rebuild with a scrambler theme. Couldn't bring myself to chop the frame, so all scrambler inspire mods are reversible (I might want to go back one day). Currently about 85% done. Day 1 vs Today Day 1: Head and many parts were packed up in boxes. Engine Removed: Rear master cylinder was pretty filthy Bought a $20 sand blaster and blasted all parts DYI powdercoating setup. I used this to powder coat the entire bike. Went with the $50 chicago powder coating gun. Was an ok setup but if I could do it again i would go with the eastwood powdercoating setup. Prebaking parts Coating parts After 20 minutes in the oven and 10 minutes to cool its done. Turned out alright. Cylinder Camshaft was toast. Never seen a more warn cam Rocker arms were also absolutely horrible as well. This thing must've been run with no oil for a while by the PO. Head journals are probably not good as well. In stock form the stator doesn't produce very much power (only uses 6 of the 12 cores). I would like to run aftermarket lights so I decided to re wind it. Fingers were basically bleeding by time I finished. I went with 18-gauge wire, wrapped all cores at 72 turns per core. Should produce around 200 watts i believe. Taking the rest of the engine apart. removing clutch basket Apparently the flywheel is torqued down to around 100 ft-lbs. I should've taken it off when the engine was in the bike. Instead I ended up cracking the case like an idiot trying to get the flywheel off. Had to order a used case from ebay (got a good deal, was around $100). Head before Head and cases after powder coating it. Used larger oven for these parts. Had to split the cases so I could replace the broken case and powder coat. Transmission forks/gears looked ok... I think. Main bearing had too much play, had to replace it and a few other bearings. Engine and transmission completely disassembled. Bottom end re assembled and cases powdercoated. Frame was pretty rusty. Sandblasted it at home but I couldnt fit it in my oven to powder coat. Decided to Linex the frame because all the powder coating places wouldnt return my calls. Here it is with the engine installed. Wheel bearings and linkage were pretty gross. Ultrasonic cleaner for about $100. This is probably my favorite purchase of all time. Makes everything so much easier. U Taking apart rear shock Shim stack looked fine. Debated some valve upgrades but ultimately decided it wasnt worth it since i will be mostly street now. I did replace the seals while i was there Replaced front fork seals and powder coated as well. Sandblasting fork Installed a LED headlight. Installed DG slip on (cheapest available). Ended up switching tanks from the above pictures for better fitment. Went with a Shinko705 rear tire, waiting on the front tire still. TODO: Front Tire Front brake Taillight Engine lights (why not) Find a way to create some custom side covers to go below seat. Put stock exhaust heat shield back on Fork seal savers ....I think thats it
  10. Hey guys, So I’m about to go to college in the fall, and I’m not ready to give up dirt biking. Since I will have to buy my next bike = very slim budget, I’m thinking about buying a blown out (or running if I could find one) yz 250 and converting it to an enduro bike. Has anyone done this? If so, are there other bikes I should be looking at? I feel that for the price of a used off-road bike, I could potentially have a converted Mx bike that is taylored to my likings. And riding that ex Mx bike may make me a better rider if I learn it correctly. I’m coming off an xcw-f 350, so I’m not entirely new to riding, but I still have a lot to learn. Another plus to this is that I will learn my bike well (from a mechanical aspect). So what do you guys think? Is it worth the time and money? Thanks for any input you can give
  11. Just a quick post to share my son's TTR50 street legal build. We've decided to start a YouTube channel to help document the process. Please take a moment to watch, subscribe and comment: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChS...3ztqQeJfUT2lCQ Looking forward to hearing what you guys think... thanks!
  12. Hey All, Made an original post on this forum that is a bit wordy, so giving a condensed summary here for those willing to read a bit more (pics are also in that post), and help me out. 19 year old with very little mechanical knowledge, fairly proficient rider, looking for advice on proper bike maintenance and how to get started on converting my bike into a café racer/scrambler type of bike. In OP (and here) I included pictures of what I want the bike to look like more or less, and many other details. My bike has around 27,000 miles on it, and I've let it get a bit too rusted - so advice on the pics in that post and whether I need to replace certain parts or just get to polishing/scrubbing away rust with WD40. Any and all tips are appreciated about this bike and project - thanks! John
  13. Hello, i already post about it but i want more opinions as posible, i have this yamaha yz100 76 with a 74 carabela 200cc 2stroke italian-mexican engine on it, my plan is to take off the 200cc engine and replace it with a 400cc 4stroke newer yamaha engine, so i understand that is an old bike and the bike would worth more getting a 76 yz100 2stroke, but... i want to build an ADV bike with a 400cc engine. Im still looking for the new engine and all the other components. so my principal questions are. It will fit the new engine? Can i use any other series engine or only an YZ series engine? Should get a smaller engine? What do you recommend?
  14. Hey all, I bought a 2015 YZ250F that a kid had been running with an oil leak until (surprise!) it stopped running, massive compression leak but no seize. I bought it cheap as a project for fun and I've uh... found the problem! The piston is clearly destroyed, I always knew this would need replaced, but my question to you all is: What do you think the prognosis on the cylinder is? I'm not a finely tuned mill, but it looks to me like the cylinder wall isn't gouged, just has a bunch of piston bits welded to it. I've read online that the cylinder is Nikasil-plated and am seeing widely mixed opinions on whether a nikasil plate can be restored/honed. My current plan is to take it to my local shop and ask them if they can save it. If not, or if the price >$100, it won't be worth it and I'll just buy a new cylinder. I'm prepared to replace the whole cylinder, just don't want to jump the gun if there's a way to save it. Thanks! P.S.: If I end up replacing the cylinder, I'll need to make the decision whether or not to go big-bore. Does anyone have experience with this bike with a big bore kit? Is it worth it? P.P.S.: Change your oil friends
  15. Hey guys and gals, I was wondering if anybody knows whether or not a crf250r motor would fit in the crf150 frame without and frame modifications. I was thinking of doing this because, while love the power of a crf250r, the bike feels too big for me and i just feel much more safe on a smaller bodied bike. and lets be honest, whats more fun than the idea of riding a small bike with lots of power? I was hoping to make a winter project out of custom building a new bike and was hoping to go this route. Thanks for any help in advance!
  16. Had my bike tapped out on pavement then she locked right up, held the clutch, came to a stop, loaded her up, top end looks perfect. Trying to find the next best bottom end to OEM standards.. I didn’t expect anything of this kind of nature but here we are and I believe it’s only the bottom bearing on my rod, Hope I can get some suggestions on getting parts and also is there any suggestions for tools (crankcase splitter, flywheel puller, bearing and seal driver) as I’m on my way to Edmonton tomorrow for a break the bank kind of day, any opinions are greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!!
  17. Not sure how this ended up in 4 stroke land - the 2020 TE250i is most definitely a 2 stroker. Guys and Gals - I can't say enough about how smooth this bike build went. Dan North, and Cal made this thing happen seamlessly. From advice on my bike purchase, component selection, to ensuring the street legal inspection/dealer registration occurred in a timely manner. Dan even pointed out a warranty issue on my bike that the dealer neglected to inform me of! They told me they could get all this done in a day and I was honestly skeptical. I dropped the bike off early but they started on the designated day (Saturday morning) and it was ready to rock by Saturday afternoon as promised! The video doesn't mention that they also replaced the rear and front shocks to set the bike up for my weight as well. TrueNorthMotos out did themselves and I'm sure their business will continue to flourish with customer service like this. I am not being compensated in any way shape or form for posting this! Check out the build on their website! RoboD's TrueNorthMotos 2020 TE 250i Build!
  18. Just picked up this 2005 YZ125 for $2000. I think it has upgraded sss forks right? I plan on doing some work to it and this is the start of my next build. Im thinking Powdercoat the frame and swingarm, black wheels, and some graphics. Question is the guy who owned this running the stock silencer with an fmf pipe for power? Go Check out the build I did on the yellow and gold 2005 YZ250
  19. Hi people, I know very little on how to do what I want to do regards to putting together a 2nd hand ec 300 I'm making videos to entertain others and myself during the build Any help would be great in the weeks to come Here is the link to my 1st episode of the Gas Gas Ec 300 Build Series Enjoy https://youtu.be/aMTOXVhyikI
  20. Whats up ThumperTalk, so for the past year I've had this bit of a project bike that I've been working on, its an 01 CR-125 as you can tell by the title. My original plan was to build it for more of a motocross scene, and in January I broke my CB, I cased a double and it threw me over the bars. After that I've decided to move towards more of an enduro scene, I had just got the CR before I broke my collarbone, and I didn't want to sell for a 250 4T or 250 2T, so working with what I had... I began this build. I didn't take many pictures along the way due to it being spread throughout the year, but recently I finally splurged and bought the last bit of stuff I wanted for the bike minus a 3.1 gal tank, that can wait. When I first got the bike she was making pretty low compression, and I could work on my bike all day, but troubleshooting is not my strong area, so I send her into the local K&N Yamaha, man those guys know what they are doing, I've never been disappointed in any of their work. Turned out the piston was shot, the cylinder is a little worn, and the power valve linkage wasn't even hooked up! So they threw a new piston in there, and now it's making about 140psi, still 40psi under but it still rips, at some point before this upcoming race season I will throw a new cylinder in there, but I got the motor running good, and I started to work towards making it more woods ready (Pipe Guard, Hand Guards, Moose Torque Spacer, Skid Plate (not made yet), etc.) Spent 6 hours in the shop a couple days ago getting her cleaned up, running the swingarm and frame with scotch brite and mothers polish, and here is my final product! What are your opinions on it? anything else you'd recommend for a 125 woods bike? And by the way, I'm sure I'm gonna hear "A 125 in the woods?", "just buy a 250", "you won't have enough bottom end", etc. But after riding a yz250, a ktm 200exc, and a cr250f through the woods, I wouldn't trade my bike for anything like that, it is so much lighter, and although I have to work the hell out of the clutch, I feel like I have a lot more control over logs, rocks, etc. I also feel like its easier to throw the 125 around more than the other bikes. '
  21. Hey gang! First post here. I wanted to start a thread for my bike build. I have some know as to what I want to do, some stuff I can't decide on, and other stuff I don't know about that I'm searching for answers for. This first post will serve as a background for where my bike stands, what I plan to do, and the questions I currently have that I'm looking for answers for (also to be search/posted in the area dedicated for them). If you want to follow along on this 2021 build, you've joined the right thread. The history: I started off on a Ninja400. Loved that bike for the short time I had it. Rode it hard, took a few classes with it, and added new levers, clip-ons, frame sliders, tail kit, windshield, and some other small odds and ends. I zipped around hard on that bike. After my second riding season with it, I decided it was time for something else. I would give myself a horrible headache every time I rode it, my legs always felt cramped, I consistently broke the speed limit by far, and knew I would end up hurt or in trouble before too long. Being around friends and family that off-road a dual sport was in order. I could sumo it and keep 21/18s for the off road. I dug into google to uncover my desires. Made spread sheets of data, read and watched reviews, analyzed all major dual sports from every angle other than riding them. I found a nice wr250r that came with sumo wheels that got sold out from under me, checked out a crf250l that felt hella under powered compared to what I was used to, and google told me the DRZ400 was the best all around option with some of most annoying draw-backs. So there I was, trying to find my big, heavy, slow, pig. I found her, I had to buy a hitch carrier and drive all the way across the state but I got her. I only got a chance to ride her probably 3-4 times before hell froze over for the winter. My initial thoughts of the DRZ400s: Heavy, tall, *@!^ 5 speed transmissions, 50/50 tires aren't smooth, and it doesn't turn like my little Ninja. But boy oh boy, something about it is perfect. That brings us to where we are today, winter of 2021 planning and budgeting for winter upgrades. I will outline my plans and questions below to start the journey off. Suspension: First thing I noted was how freaking soft it is. I sit on the bike and it sinks. So I will be upgrading springs. Racetech 5.7kg in the rear, and 4.7kg or 4.8kg in the front with an obvious oil change. I will be trying to tackle this myself. Rear is no issue as I have had the shock out before, but the front will be tackling new territory ripping those out. Videos make it seem fairly easy to replace oil and springs. The 4.7/8kg front and 5.7kg rear seem to be a good compromise according to RT for someone who plans on riding 90% street with the occasional fire roads. Just have to decided if I want the slightly softer .7 or slightly stiffer .8 front spring. Headlight: There is an LED light in it already, but I have come to love the big round baja style light. Do I need to spend $600 on a new headlight, no. But do I want to? yes, yes and more yes. Talk me out of it. I don't need it but I really want it. Will it look silly if I get sumo wheels? Maybe. Do I care? Not really. Wheels: Currently have two sets, one with DOT knobbies, and another with 50/50s. Probably doing to sell the 50/50s and get sumo wheels for it. Where I live there is 0 off roading within 2 hours or so. It doesn't make sense to keep a set of 50/50s on it when I can easily ride paved road and then swap wheels and transport 2-4 hours to get some light off road action. So I am keeping an eye out for stock SM wheels or Warp9 wheels to buy for $600-$900. Just unsure of the breaks which I will cover below. Breaks: I have decided I want the larger front rotor. Either stock SM size (310 I think) or the warp9 (320 I think). It will be easy enough to remove and re attach the caliper relocation bracket if I want to swap wheels out. Or I can buy a larger rotor for the off road wheels. The rear is where I'm confused. Apparently the S has a 220mm rear disc, the SM has a 240mm rear disc. If I get stock SM wheels with a 240mm rotor, what else do I need to change for the rear break to work? A whole SM caliper assembly? Or do I just swap out the 240mm disc with a 220mm? Choices and questions I am still unsure of. Also, reading online it sounds like there is a different bolt up pattern on the hubs. 4 vs 6 bolts. Levers: Clutch level has to much vertical free play it's unreal I will probably be replacing both levers with the cheapest ASV ones. Had those on my ninja and loved them. Performance Mods: Currently have a full yosh exhaust, and some sort of jetting kit. The guy I bought it from wasn't sure which kit it was but he said he never had issues. So I will probably leave it alone and not do the 3x3 mod. Drive-train: I will probably start with the 14/44 setup I have, but possibly look to switch to a 14/39 or 14/41 for more street oriented use. My off-road set has a 50t in the rear so I get all the up hill torque. Stay tune for more pics, more info, and my winter build giggles.
  22. Hey guys. I recently saw a 1999 Buell X1 for sale and The ad said it was missing parts. The bike was given to the seller and he was either going to sell it or part it out. I gave him an offer of 200 for the whole bike and he took it. Ive ridden dirtbikes but this would be my first street legal bike. Im 20. Is this a good idea or should I stay away. I like working on bikes and my pops could help if I got stuck. Ill attach pics. Also I wanted something between a cruiser and a sport bike that can handle the freeway and also be good in traffic as far as getting to class, which is why I like this bike. Thanks for your help.
  23. Putting back together a 2000 kx250 project bike I picked up a while ago after replacing the crank, bearings, and seals, etc. and have a question about the shift drum assembly and positioning. Must it be in a specific gear or neutral when putting the cases back together??? I removed everything from the case halves and want to insure that I put it back together right but can not find anything in the service manual that relates to this area and timing. PLEASE HELP!
  24. The start of the budget build on my 2017 SSR 125!
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