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Found 16 results

  1. I’m putting together my 96 YZ250 and can’t figure out where the clutch and throttle cables should be routed. I am in able to find it a n my service manual as well
  2. Hey guys. I picked up a 2000 TTR 125 from a friend of mine for $350. The bike runs, although i haven't really been able to get it to idle. I'm having a few different issues I'm trying to sort through. I'll list them in bullets. Any help is greatly appreciated. Problem 1: No idle. Warm or cold the bike dies off the throttle. Interestingly, i started the bike with the choke cable completely removed and the bike started without throttle and idled pretty well. What's the reason it would idle/start so much better just removing the cable altogether? (I found that someone else purchased this same type of bike and it had the choke cable deleted altogether, so i'm assuming they had the same discovery. Picture and post below) https://imgur.com/a/5hfdO https://www.reddit.com/r/Fixxit/comments/6qr5uf/ttr125_only_runs_with_choke_cable_completely/ Problem 2: High RPM breakup. At higher RPMs / higher throttle the bike sputters and pretty much loses all power. Afterwards, the bike just stops accelerating until I let off and get back on throttle. The accelerator diaphragm is not torn. Could this still be something causing issues with the break ups at high load? I've tried adjusting the float and adjusting the fuel screw. None of this really seems to fix it. The recommended setting is 2 turns out on the fuel screw. Problem 3: Black soot on spark plug. I purchased a new spark plug for the bike after it did not want to start. Installed the new plug and it started right away. Idled on it's own, whereas it did not before. Well, before long I pulled the plug to check it and noticed black dry soot on the tip and the bike would not idle on its own. I've cleaned the plug and adjusted the AFR multiple times. Still gives me black soot. This is it at idle, and low speeds in my neighborhood. So i'll have to give this more testing. This is the first bike I've owned. Never really played with carburetors before. Obviously they need to be clean. I took this carburetor apart and sprayed the passages down with cleaner. What does everyone use to really push the crud out of all the tiny passages?
  3. When my bike is not running, I noticed if I put my bike in gear and squeeze the clutch all the way in and roll the bike, the clutch is not fully disengaging and it is turning the engine over. Last week I took it out for a ride and noticed I also cannot start it in gear without giving it a good amount of throttle and if I stop in gear with the clutch squeezed all the way in, the bike will stall. I have no clutch slippage issues or any other problems I can recognize other than the clutch not fully disengaging. I figured it was likely a stretched cable and they're cheap so I put a new motion pro cable in this morning and adjusted it properly and I'm still having the same issue, I have not rode the bike with the new cable but I put it in 1st gear and tried to roll it with the clutch squeezed all the way and it was still turning the engine. What else could be my problem???
  4. Hey folks. First of all, I'm loving this site so far; having a great time collecting DRZ info and already ordered some stuff from the TT Store. So I did lots of searching in advance but I didn't find a whole lot of pics on the subject. Short story: I'm putting Renthal CR Highs on my DRZ so I decided to just re-route the throttle cables in advance. Many folks have said to route them on the right side of the frame so this is what I'm trying right now. I'm just not sure I like that the cables are almost touching the engine bolts and I'm also not sure about routing farther up towards the front of the frame. I snapped some pics of my current routing from carb to bars and am just curious if anyone can see anything problematic? In the second pic, I would be replacing the zip tie, tying the throttle and clutch cables together. Any better options that others have done? Thanks in advance!
  5. Hey guys first post, hope im putting it in the right place. searched around for an answer to my problem but couldnt find it. So i dumped my 2017 kx250f on the left side the other day. the clutch lever got bent and from then on the cable seemed real loose and couldnt get it to disengage. so i bought some asv levers and some random cable since i assumed i just stretched the sheath. unfortunately those didnt help and its seems like the cable is still too long. I was playing around with the bottom connection to the cable and even when i would manually pull it the clutch wouldnt disengage. so im starting to think its something internal. what do you guys think? clutch spring?? TIA this is really pissing me off
  6. Hi, I jetted my bike today and decided to open up the cable area to lube it up. Not sure when exactly it happened but after I opened it up, sprayed some cleaner in there, then lubed it up the cable started sticking. The only other thing I did was put on the lock nut for the cable on the left side in this photo (it was completely off). Now the throttle just sticks open wherever I turn it too. It seems like it is not being pulled back into position not really like it is dirty and sticking because of dirt. It looks clean where I can see, it has been lubed everywhere, and I had no throttle issue before now. Any ideas? kx250f thanks!
  7. My 2001 rm125 has a terrible clutch feel. Compared to my friends bikes (both 125s), the clutch pull is heavier and no where near as smooth (slightly notchy throughout entire pull it feels like). Are these crappy breakaway levers the cause of this, or is it that my basket is notched a tad bit, or is it something else? Cable was replaced with a new one and has similar feeling to before but a little better.
  8. Hey guys, just got a new clutch cable for the XR and found that I may have routed in incorrectly. Since I got the bike with no clutch cable on it to begin with I am not entirely sure just how it is supposed to be routed. Right now I have it routed through the handle bars and down the right side of the bike in between the headers. The problem is that it is tight around turns and rubs on the header as well. Is it supposed to be centered along the frame rail with the oil lines? If there a place which has the location for this that would be great to know. I have looked in the manual but have come up with nothing so any help is appreciated!
  9. I picked up a 1975 MT250 elsinore yesterday, and its a solid bike to start a restoration. Frame and motor is great. Runs, but needs some work. Throttle cable is junk, and its idling too high but i cant adjust the cable because its broken and sticky. Killswitch is also junk, so a stuck throttle scares me right now. Headlight is mismatched and not wired up (nothing is wired up all wires are cut). Missing taillight and blinkers are not original. Side plate is there, but the piece that holds it on is missing so it falls off. it runs and drives, but would like to sort out the throttle cable and killswitch before i start doing any carb tuning to get it crisp. seat cover has a burnt section from the exhaust... do these usually have something to keep it off of the exhaust when its up? Its missing the latch for the seat as well, so im using a nut and washer right now. Whats the general consensus with the oil injection? Cap it and premix, or rely on the injection? Anyone with some knowledge of these bikes is greatly appreciated, because mine is very limited. Im mechanically inclined and excited to dive in, but will definitely need some help along the way.
  10. Hello, I own a kx250f 2012 and I need to replace the OEM line cable by a new braided steel line. I have the same issue as many riders apparently. It seems pretty hard to find the lenght of Front and Rear cable... Anyone has the OEM size ? I could probably just go remove my cable and check the lenght but the cable is &%$#@!ed and I dont want to do any mistake mesuring it or what ever. Sorry for my english Thank you !
  11. Ok so I recently bought an EBC clutch kit for my drz400. I installed the kit and when I went to adjust the clutch cable I could not get all the slack out of the cable so I barely had the ability to separate the clutch plates with the clutch lever. I took everything apart again and compared it with the old plates. It turns out the EBC stack is a little thicker. Yes I have two little rings in the inside of the the basket and yes I was sure to install the thinner friction plate first. So I decided to take out a steel and see if that help and sure enough my clutch feel perfect and engages just as I would like. But now Im missing a steel. Has anyone had this problem? Im I missing something. Your thoughts please. Im hoping someone has dealt with this before. Or even a link to a discussion about this. Thanks
  12. Hey guys, just got a new clutch cable for the XR and found that I may have routed in incorrectly. Since I got the bike with no clutch cable on it to begin with I am not entirely sure just how it is supposed to be routed. Right now I have it routed through the handle bars and down the right side of the bike in between the headers. The problem is that it is tight around turns and rubs on the header as well. Is it supposed to be centered along the frame rail with the oil lines? If there a place which has the location for this that would be great to know. I have looked in the manual but have come up with nothing so any help is appreciated!
  13. I just bought a Magura hydraulic clutch for my 2014 CRF450R. Bought it thinking install would be easy, and I'm not sure that's the case now that I have the product in my hands. I have searched the forums, YouTube, etc for install help specifically for my model year (2013 and 2014 are same really), and haven't found anything specific for the 2013-2014 model install at all. Instructions from Magura are TERRIBLE, and are not specific at all to the Honda - generic instructions - so I'm debating if I want to return the product, cuz I don't want trouble or a big install job. Question: for the 2013-2014 CRF450R install ONLY of a Magura Hymec hydraulic clutch - other model years are different and thus it won't be helpful for other model years - do you have any tips or feedback? My concerns are below... 1. The 2014 model has a sleeve behind the clutch actuation arm that the Magura clutch slave cylinder fits into. Stock, the sleeve holds one end of the cable, with a nut on the other end to keep the cable end tight in the sleeve. The Magura slave cylinder, however, slides into the mounting sleeve - but does NOT have a nut: the tension from the clutch actuation arm pulling on the metal Magura slave cyl tip end is apparently supposed to keep the Magura slave cylinder tight in the mounting sleeve. Q: Will the Magura slave fit in to the mounting sleeve easily, stay tight, and is there any adjustment needed in order to keep the 4-6mm of freeplay that Magura recommends? How easy is it to get the Magura slave fitted into the sleeve and the metal tip in place? Is there enough freeplay between slave and tip end to mount in actuating arm AND the holding sleeve, so that the holding sleeve doesn't need to be unbolted? 2. The stock clutch cable and OEM setup runs out of the mounting sleeve (see pics marked "metal starts", and then runs through a metal sleeve that routes the cable through the engine compartment - keeping the cable away from the hot parts of the engine case, so as not to melt the cable insulation (I believe). That metal sleeve is about 6-8 inches in length. The Magura clutch cable, on the other hand, exits the Magura slave cylinder at an angle - yet has no such metal routing. I don't think the OEM metal routing sleeve will accept the Magura cable either, so a) the OEM metal routing sleeve would have to be removed first before installing the Magura - and then b) you have to hope that the Magura cable can be routed in such a way with zip ties holding the hydraulic line that line will not touch or be close to the hot metal engine casing as you route it through the engine. Q: how easy was it to get the OEM clutch cable and metal routing sleeve out? Easy as unscrewing the nut on the other end of the OEM cable, on the other side of the black rubber cable flange in my pics? 3. My stock clutch pull isn't bad. I just like the feel of a hydro clutch. Any feedback on how much better feeling and easier pull will be with the Magura? What's your feedback on the difference? FYI, I'm leaving my clutch plates and springs stock.
  14. So I have this 1991 kx125 and I got it with a broken clutch lever I got a new one and the cable seems to not be long enough to get to the lever I need like 2-3 more inches are there any aftermarket ones that are a little longer
  15. I have a 2001 Honda Cr125R that i just had the whole clutch replaced because my old one was shot do to a bad bearing that caused all types of problems. Anyway, i was happy with the work that got done on it right after because my bike started on 1 kick every time until i stalled it in the street due to a failed burnout attempt (lol). I had my bike in gear and just naturally held in the clutch and went to kick it over expecting it to start right up with no issues. But it did not start, it kind of jerked me forward a little bit and just didnt feel right when i was kicking it over. So i put the bike in neutral and kicked it over 1 kick, no problems. This just seemed very odd to me because I've never come across this problem before. With some further investigation on the bike, I put it up on the stand where the back tire does not touch the ground, started it up in neutral, put it in first gear just to stall it out but the bike DID NOT STALL! I let go of the clutch completely and the back tire just spun. Can anybody help with this? My first suspicion was something with the clutch cable possibly being too tight???
  16. So I purchased a 1999 Yamaha xt350 yesterday and it came with a trail tech digital gauge. The previous owner left the Tachometer cable and it is annoying the hell out of me when I ride. My question is: is there a manufacturer that makes model-specific plugs so that I can delete the drive cable or will I have to just find some sort of plug that will work? If my only option is the latter option then do any of you guys have suggestions for what size plug I should be looking for?
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