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  1. I wanted to share my experience for all to enjoy, ever since owning this bike a year ago, i've thoroughly enjoyed learning thru this platform bare with this story, and let me know your thoughts, honestly 2003 DRZ400S 20k miles with suspected coolant leak that i was trying to ignore After riding 2000miles and a few oil changes, i noticed stalling when running hot and coming back to idle Figured i'd clean the carb Pulled the carb, couple screws were stripped already (ordered a rebuild kit and sprayed it out with carb clean [ through drain plug and all over, letting it soak upside down, 3 times and brown stuff was flowing out]) When i put it back together, i primed it and left the prime on for a bit after it started up Heard it backfire (i think just once) It wouldn't hold idle for longer than 30 sec, blowing a little gray smoke (was thinkin it was just burnin off some junk) I messed with the fuel screw/idle screw (yes have the screw upgrade) Got it idling then the IDIOT LIGHT (coolant temp) lit up Started blowing more smoke, this time sweet and whitish Checked coolant and level and was low Next day i got more coolant in and started it up Cranked easy, after a little it would blow white sweet smoke again Noticed: -coolant leak coming out of coolant hose seal connecting to front of head -found fuel in the oil when draining fluid -also looked like oil/gas was in coolant when draining From my research (thanks team) i figured at minimum have a head gasket issue I ordered, rubber valve seals, engine gasket kit, rings.... Now i finally got to taking off the head cover today (crankcase bolt was stripped so i got to TDC by dropping it into 5th and turning the wheel before removing spark plug...) I haven't gotten deeper than that due to running outta daylight but noticed that the Exhaust Cam Cover looks way dirtier (with oil all around it) than the Intake Cam Cover I'm assuming its oil that has been burning off around the cover, what should i expect now? Feeling like i may be a bit underwater with this one but i wanna keep charging. i love my drz I'll post a pic tomorrow when i have more light THanks for reading through this case, time to get a beer, CHEERS!!!!!!!!
  2. Just finished adjusting the valves on my 2008 crf250r, I kicked once and the motor turned over maybe one rotation and then it locked up. I thought the cam was set correctly but it' possible its off. I also forgot to use the engine locking bolt on the bottom side that locks it at tdc while working on it but I wasn' concerned because I didn' feel like I was turning the engine the chain while working on it. Before the valve adjustment it kicked over fine. What could the issue be?
  3. I know this is a reach... Anyone happen to have step by step assembly pics of xl600r engine? I have the manual, but it's not always super clear. I've gotten this far with manual and my own experience, but I'm hitting a wall on this side of the engine. Total basket case. Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
  4. I'm considering swapping my stock cam for an R cam or Stage 1 Hot Cam. I did a bit of research and found that the R cams vary from year to year, some having more broad power, while others have a punchy mid to top. The Hot Cam seems to have the best bottom end, with not as much up top. My question: what cam would you guys recommend for someone who rides mostly trails (hare scrambles and enduro) with little to no MX riding? Is it even worth swapping cams? I wanted something with more mid to top, but I also don't want to lose all of the beastly bottom end that this bike has. I heard that the '05 R cam is pretty good for overall power/torque. The Stage 1 Hot Cam looks the most promising, but is it that different from the stock X cam? Anyone have experience with these cams?
  5. I recently purchased a 2010 KX250F from a friend of mine that had been sitting in his garage for about 5 years. The bike seemed to be in decent shape and the price was right so i picked it up. I went through most of the bike before riding it (air filter, oil, greased all the bearings, adjusted suspension, changed all the fluids, etc) The valves sounded a bit loose so i decided to have a "Buddy of mine" adjust the valves. I get the bike back, go for a ride and the cam chain tensioner falls out while i was riding, luckily i caught it very soon after it happened and it never jumped timing. I put the tensioner back in and continue to ride the rest of the day. as the day goes on the valves sound much looser than they were originally before the adjustment was done, I decided to call it a day and tear the bike down myself. I shim the loose valves and button the bike back up, but now the thing sounds god awful. Straight up clacking coming from the right side of the top end. Since then ive probably had the bike apart and back together 4 or 5 times trying to figure out the problem. Its not the auto decompression valve, every valve is in spec, timing is solid, and the cam chain tensioner is working fine. I'm stumped. anyone have any thoughts?
  6. While checking my valve clearances and putting on a hot cam on the exhaust i noticed my intake cam was a tooth off. Read about stock hydro one sometimes not doing its job. so instead of buy one for $60 a made one for my '08 250 xcfw with a the following. 10x1 60mm long bolt. 10mmnut and oring to fit bolt. make the hex end round so it fits through the case. Slot the other end for a flat head thread into stock cap install and tension. lock the nut down. used some blue locktight to make sure no oil leaks out.
  7. Hey everyone, I purchased a cam chain tensioner cap http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/182609975758? for my 2005 DR-Z 400 E the problem is that my cam tensioner is differtent to any others I've seen. It doesn't ratchet and the cap sits inside the shaft. Please see pics any ideas???
  8. My CRF450R was hard to start, so I took it to a shop for Valve inspection They found the valves were way off, and they have now been set to: 222 on Top 2, 179 on Bottom 2 But they warned of a very big problem - the Upper Right Cam Tower bolt is stripped in the threading, and said that would require a new Head replacement They also said the Tensioner has no tension So I am wondering how serious of a problem the Stripped Threading is on the Head, because it seems to be very expensive fix. But they also said when the Cover is on, the bolt cannot escape. Some Question: 1) If I do ride it like this, can the problem get any worse - or has the damage been done and I may as well keep riding until it stops running if an entire head is to be replaced anyways 2) What parts will I exactly need in the replacement - because if I search for CRF450R HEAD, there are multiple parts packages and they are so pricey I want to ensure I get only what I need - seems like I may want to replace Valves too if they are close; and is the Tensioner a part of that package? 3) Should I try to get a Big Bore kit or something, so the large expenditure of time and money at least puts me to a point of better than stock? Thanks in advance - let me know if any pics or anything can help - really a sad day
  9. Just did a cam rebuild strictly by the service manual and now there is an intermittent ticking coming from the cam cover area. Does anyone know what this is?
  10. Hey all, new to the site. Looking forward to getting a better understanding of my 95’ XR600R. Its street legal and I plan on using it to commute and also ride all around. Camping etc. its running strong. But seems to have a few common problems I’ve been reading on the forum here. Like the hanging high idle. Possibly the old carb but I did order a new intake boot because it was slathered in rvt. lol Little noisy in the valve cover. Probably cause its running hot and I imagine the tensioner needs replaced. Also have some leaks around the lower cases appears to be vent line on the right side. Good news is I pulled the plug and its burning tan. Doesn’t seem to lean to I think its a idle problem and not an air leak: I plan on pulling the engine this winter. To address these issues and clean the bike and repaint the frame and engine. The xr has acerbis headlight and plastic. The headlight is a bit of a joke. I’m looking to replace it with an led of some sort. Even if I have to retro fit another type of led bar. Any ideas or links to prior post would be awesome if you are follow something similar. Thanks
  11. So, I purchased a clean 2012 kx250f with 49.6 hours on it. Bike starts first kick and runs and idles great. It revs out and shifts through all the gears and has plenty of power. This weekend I took it down to the frame and went through the whole bike for a rebuild for peace of mind. I decided to check the valve clearance before I threw it back together, and got some weird measurements. The exhaust clearance was at .28mm on both lobes. Is there any reason that someone would set the exhaust clearance "loose" and be .06mm above the spec in the manual? My intake clearance is in spec, one at .11mm, the other at .15mm. I am bringing the .11mm up to match the .15mm at the upper end of the spec. I also plan to bring the the exhaust back down into spec, but want to make sure i'm not gonna mess something up if this was done intentionally. I know the gap tightens as the valves stretch over time, so I don't see why the gap would be above the specification. This is my first Kawi KX250F, so the valve train sounded loud in my opinion. I owned a Kawi ZX6R. This also had a loud valve train, but that was typical for this bike. It had a self adjusting cam chain tensioner, so the valves would get a little loud before it self adjusted. Let me know what you guys think before I throw the bike back together. Thanks!
  12. I have this spark plug o ring left to install, and I cannot for the life of me figure out where to put it and I don't want to chance it and install it the wrong way. will someone please tell me where this thing goes.
  13. Hey guys. I got a pair of white and blue ODI grips for my birthday but want to order a quick turn cam for it. Odi customer support tells me that they don't make them but aftermarket parts should work. I'm not trying to spend $100 on a G2 or a power parts quick turn aluminum throttle... Wondering if the replaceable cams that come on the 17's would work Here's a link to what I am referring to http://www.ktm-parts.com/AOMC/product/26102924100?gclid=Cj0KEQjwiI3HBRDv0q_qhqXZ-N4BEiQAOTiCHnJktmpYUsC4lAQpAsIPkpHUZiNYvDVeTQ8439xzfTsaAvbK8P8HAQ Does anybody know if these cams are compatible with the MY 16 fe501s. Or is there another budget friendly alternative?
  14. I have been reading that the stage one hot cam increases a lot of low end torque, but was wondering does this take away from the top end, right now the bike is setup ONLY for street use what cam is better for street use in your opinion?
  15. Hi all...sorry if this is a question that has come up in the past. I attempted to search through the forums but couldn't find an answer to my exact question. In the off season we picked up a ShiftUp Spartan big valve head for an xr/crf100. The plan is to put into our race bike that is currently running higher lift Megacycle camshaft. After looking at the ShiftUp head we noticed that the valve steams and springs are significantly smaller than what we are currently running the stock head. As a matter of fact when you look at the Megacycle catalog it specifically calls for using heaver springs. So the question is has anyone else had any experience running this head with anything other than the stock camshaft? If so what is the lift and duration of the camshaft you are running and have you run into any issues with valve float, or dropped valves? Thanks for the help.
  16. Hey everyone, I'm actually new to the forum and just created my page, so hello to you all! Anyways, I have a 2014 Honda Crf250r that I purchased in December of '16 with only 34.5 hours on it. I have since ridden that bike everyday that my work schedule allows, and she now has 100 hours on her. I have noticed the bike has become a bit harder to start, taking 10-20 kicks compared to the 1 or 2 that it would originally take to start it. Once the bike hit 100 hours, I decided it was time to tear it down to the frame and open up the heart of the beast. Upon removing my stock air boot, I noticed some dirt in my throttle body. After removing my throttle body, I also noticed some dirt where the throttle body connects to the engine... Probably why my bike is getting hard to start... Now I have not opened up my engine yet, and this is where you guys come in to help, but what exactly should I replace internal wise in my engine at 100hrs? I consider myself a C or B class rider, and I stay in the upper rpm range of my bike frequently. I would like to gain a little bit more power out of my bike, specifically in the top end/over-rev area since my bike has enough bottom end already to pop wheelies in 4th if I really try. I was thinking a high compression piston, cam, and idk what else. I don't want to lose bottom end power though, and I would like these internals to be reliable too. What part recommendations do you guys have, and what are some good brands? Hotcams/Procircuit/Carillo/Wiseco/etc
  17. Greetings TT! Hoping to glean some knowledge from you YZ owners. This is by far the nicest vehicle of any type I have ever owned and absolutely love the bike. My experience is with street bikes and 2 stroke dirt bikes. That said, I now have about 30-35 hours on the bike. Around 5 of those hours are beginner level XC race hours, the rest is a mix of slow single track and faster double track. I realize its past time to do the necessary top end checks. It's just so damn fun to ride I kept putting it off lol. Oil change was after 1st hour, then 3rd hour and since then every 2nd ride-around 8 hours with filter every other oil change. Screen is cleaned every time, and I always crack the bleeder screw til oil runs out. I have until now been using Yamalube conventional oil that the dealer recommended. I am switching to the Yamalube synth from this point on. Air filter is cleaned oiled after every ride, I use No toil green stuff and swap between the stock filter and a funnel web filter if its going to be dry and dusty. SO, just now checking the valve clearances. Clearances are good. However, I pulled the cams out anyway for a look. I'll share my findings and appreciate any insight First off the exhaust lifter or bucket that corresponds with the decomp is showing lots of wear. New part has been ordered ( I also realize that my clearance on that valve should be rechecked when new part arrives), but I am curious if this type of wear is normal for such low hours? When checking by hand the weight/spring/pin all move fine and easily retracts. So I am assuming the pin is not stuck out when running. When I first got the bike it was fairly hard to start sometimes and before my first race would not stay running at all. Another racer with same your WR advised me to turn the idle up. Did the trick. I'm not used to a modern 4 stroke-or 4 stroke dirt bikes in general other than my DRZ for that matter, so I did not realize how high the idle needs to be. Starts no problem and runs great always since. Perhaps it took a beating early on from a low idle/ frequent cranking to start? Also, I tend to ride lots of technical trails that require lugging/clutching, perhaps the revs being low from the lugging is not overcoming decomp spring? Finally, more recently I have to doing single track trails that include gnarly engine off descents, and sometime I will just click it back into gear and pop the clutch to restart. Perhaps I'm not spinning the motor over as quickly as the starter will and the decomp pin is beating on the lifter til the motor restarts? My decomp pin has rings or ridges that look like tooling marks, but on the pics of say hot cams, their decomp pin is quite rounded and polished smooth. Thoughts on this? I have not yet measured anything with a mic or plastigauge, just visual checks. More wear than I was expecting, but again I'm used to prehistoric 2 strokes. So here's some pics:
  18. Hey guys. So I have just replaced my cam chain on my DRZ400 and now, after reassembly, I can't get the bike to shift into neutral, and maybe it doesn't even shift at all. I started the bike and from using the clutch it feels like im probably in third gear. I didn't do much testing because im afraid to do more damage when running the engine any longer. I think the gears above work, the shifter click sounds familiar when shifting up, but I can shift endlessly, even after shifting up 5 times. When trying to shift down, the clicking is a bit quiet and it feels like the shifter doesn't move far enough. The shifter itself has quit a bit of left to right movement, which is weird. But even more weird to me is that I didn't think that anything I touched during the cam chain change could cause problems with the transmission if I made a mistake. Maybe I did some damage while removing or torquing down the nut on the clutch basket. I don't have a special tool to hold the basket so I just blocked the rear wheel and therefore All the force went trough the transmission to the wheel. This is my first time working on the bikes engine and I don't have any knowledge about the topic, except for what I found on the Internet in the past few days. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  19. Hi All, First time posting here, just reaching out for information on what can be done about this situation. In course of replacing a valve cover gasket several years ago, I noticed a tiny crack in the threads for one of the valve cover mounts on the exhaust cam guide. I believe it's from the previous owner over tightening it. Well, my bike was leaking oil all over the side of the head so I took the cover off again the other day, before a ride, to apply some silicon and take care of that oil leak. In doing so I noticed the crack has gotten considerably worse. Here is a picture: In looking at it, it appears that even if it cracked all the way, nothing would really happen, as the cam itself is held in place on either end by the 4 bolts, and the "bridge" in the middle mostly serves as a location for those threads to hold the cover on. It also is my understanding that this guide is machined with the head (or something like that), so you can't just get another exhaust cam guide and bolt it on. But, this hasn't ever really made sense to me as I have hot cams in my bike as well installed by previous owner, and those have a different profile than stock cams but don't require any machining, just drop and go. Bike currently runs like a top. So, what are my options? I saw a few other, older posts where something similar happened. It seems perhaps having a shop plug weld it then drill new hole would be the preferred approach but not sure. Much appreciated. -Brad
  20. I had my ACR break off of the exhaust cam and it seems to be irreparable. I'm wondering if anyone has some good leads on finding a replacement as Kawasaki no longer makes them. Maybe looking for a parts motor?
  21. I have an 1989 xr250r that had an oil issue that I already fixed but my camshaft is rocked one of the lobes messed up and I can't find another. My question is can i use a 1996 or later cam on it they look the same but I was hoping someone knew thanks
  22. Hi, I recently got an old beat up 1996 XR600 for cheap. I want a project bike to completely tear down and learn on, so I figured I would start here. I am an engineer and mechanically inclined, but I am not a mechanic. I lack the experience to identify potential issues as being problematic, so I would like to post pictures of what I find and ask you experience guys to help me out. Here is what she looked like when I bough her: With the exception being that the cylinder and head were attached (but not the head cover). The bike is actually pretty much complete, everything else (engine side covers, seat, plastics, etc) are in boxes. The previous owner said he got it for a trade for doing some work, he started to take it apart, didn't have time, so left it and sold it to me for cheap. Upon examination, there are some things that worry me. The rocker arms and sub rocker arms are the most destroyed I have ever seen. They are toast right? I bought all new rocker arms and sub rocker arms. What would cause this to happen? The wear is where they come into contact with the cam right, so does that mean the cam is toast too? Here is the cam: It looks pretty bad, flash makes it looks worse tho. What would cause the rocker arms and cam to look this bad? Ran with no oil, over heated, normal wear since 1996? Here is the cylinder: So this is where I absolutely have no idea. How do you tell when its bad? It feels smooth to the touch, but there are the vertical scratch marks and what looks like water marks/blotches? At what point do I have to toss it or get it resleeved? Any rules of thumb I should follow? I plan to hone it with a little drill attached honer, I will do the proper research to make sure I do it right, hopefully this will be enough? Here is the piston: Again, there are vertical scratch marks, but I dont know at what point it becomes a problem. This seems a little worrisome to me. Here is the rod: So.... is it supposed to be discolored like that...lol. I worry that in the past it got really hot and caused the rod to become discolored. If this is the case, what else could be affected that I should check? Do I have to split the cases and replace it? I would prefer not to, but this is purely for the sake of learning, so it might be a good opportunity. Here is something weird: Notice how the rear shock reservoir is hose clamped to the frame? As soon as I removed this hose clamp I could rotate the entire rear shock on its axis by probably 3-4 inches at the reservoir. So I could grab the reservoir and move it away from the frame (to the right) about 3-4 inches. The entire rear shock assembly rotated with it. However, there is no vertical free play at all!? So I could grab the rear wheel (suspended off the ground) and move it anyway and it didnt have any slop at all. Whats going on here? A bushing or something worn? The front forks seem a little rusty up by the seals, its worse in real life than in that picture... anything i can or should do about that? With the given info above, here is what I am in the process of doing: All new rocker and sub rocker arms, cam chain, cam chain tensioner and guide, top rear shock bushing (it was cheap, idk if it will help tho), cylinder honed, new piston rings, new plunger/spring (this was just missing? maybe someone ran it without the plunger and that caused the rocker arm / cam wear?)... And thats about it, will this be enough? Any theories on what happened to it and what else I should inspect? Cosmetic: And then for fun I'm going to make her look as beautiful as possible. I have a home sand blasting / powder coating setup that I got for cheap for the sake of learning. I am going to try powder coating pretty much everything on her. Here's what I've done so far while waiting for parts: After sand blasting: After powder coating: Granted my DIY powder coating setup is a little ghetto, but it does the job. I need a bigger oven to fit the cylinder and exhaust in tho. Everything is pretty much off now: I'm still waiting on stator wire, epoxy, and gaskets to come before putting things together / fixing. I am planing on learning how to rewind the lighting coils on my stator so I can put an led light bar on it, like my 400 ... and honestly... I have only really needed to use the light bars and pod lights a handful of times. But for like 70$ on amazon for all 4, you cant really go wrong lol. Side note, does anyone know what the baja designs regulator/rectifier is rated to? Max watts? I would prefer not to blow it. Thanks for any help or input on what I should do and look out for, I really appreciate the help
  23. Checking my valve clearances and trying to take out the cam chain tensioner. Seems the frame blocks the removal, if I just unscrew the unit as a whole, bring it out to give slack, can I then just screw it back in or do I need to reset the tensioner? Anyone have a way to get this out without removing the head?
  24. Hello YZ250F 2016/2017 CAM Intake Exhaust LIFT what is the lift of the OEM cam´s? Intake? Exhaust? OEM PART NUMBERS 1SM-12170-20-00, 1SM-12180-20-00 (2017-2018) 1SM-12170-00-YX, 1SM-12180-10-00 (2014-2016) Please can someone tell me the value? Thank you, Cu Thomas
  25. Hey everyone, new member here. I recently traded my 2001 Honda 250EX for a 1985 XR200R. The bike is tight all around and looks like it wasn't used much in its life. However, there is a noise coming from the engine that's not from the crank. It's up in the head somewhere. I adjusted the vales and started the bike up, only to hear a slightly quieter noise which led my father and I to believe that it's the Cam chain. If the bike ends up needing one, where can I find an aftermarket chain? I've checked eBay, xrsonly, and the normal part sites and I am not able to find anyone who has a chain in stock. I called my local dealer and they said they could get one for $70, but I just think that I can find it online for cheaper. It doesn't have to be OEM. Thanks
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