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Found 33 results

  1. The exhaust cam on my 03 yz450f walked over because the half moon piece fell out. Now the exhaust cam has quite more resistance than the intake cam when rolled. Is it possible to disassemble the cam and just put a new bearing on it?
  2. floydstar

    Timing Chain Links

    Rebuilding top end of my 2004 EXC 400. Now onto re-riveting the timing chain but having some problems. 1) it looks like I 'broke' the chain incorrectly? I've managed to remove this section: Opposed to this section (new replacement riveting link, (I bought 2 in case a damaged one)) I was hooing to just use the old pins and re-swedge them but the old pins will not fit in the links in the chain now (by hand). The pins will not push into these link holes.... I thought I must have distorted the ends enough when removing that they no longer fit but then I tried the new riveting link in these same holes and they don't fit either! Then I tried pushing (again by hand) the new riveting plate to on to the new riveting link pins (plate see resting on top if the pins below but that also doesn't fit.... So am guessing plates have to be pressed back on to the pins (old or new pins). Is this correct? Given the way I 'broke' the chain its going to be very tricky press the old pins through the chain, though the section I removed and in the plate. I'm using the motion pro chain riveting tool... Any advice/thoughts welcome. Far too many tiny bits to juggle and not drop in the motor! Have I buggered it by removing the section rather then riveting link supplied as replacement? Hope that all makes sense. Thanks in advance. Dan.
  3. Guy Robinson

    Xr250r 1998 head

    I may be being a bit of a moron so forgive me :-) Stripped down top end on an old xr250 1998 i haven't done this kind of rebuild before but took the plunge anyway All stripped down and starting to clean all the parts up before rebuilding cam out .. all good until I tipped over the top of cylinder head ( part with valves in it ) and a little spring fell out ? Only maybe 4mm wide by 15-20 mm long ? I think I have found a hole it came from. It nonidea what it is or if I have definitely got it in the right spot ?
  4. Hello everyone. New to this forum. I've got an 84 XL600R and I'm doing a top end rebuild because it's seaized. I'm to the point where I have the head off and trying to take the cam chain and cam off to get to the cylinder but because the engine is seized I can't turn the cam to get to the second cam sprocket bolt. Do any of you more experienced riders out there know of any other ways to get the cam off with a seized engine?
  5. Otto646

    kx250f God Awful Noise KX250F

    I recently purchased a 2010 KX250F from a friend of mine that had been sitting in his garage for about 5 years. The bike seemed to be in decent shape and the price was right so i picked it up. I went through most of the bike before riding it (air filter, oil, greased all the bearings, adjusted suspension, changed all the fluids, etc) The valves sounded a bit loose so i decided to have a "Buddy of mine" adjust the valves. I get the bike back, go for a ride and the cam chain tensioner falls out while i was riding, luckily i caught it very soon after it happened and it never jumped timing. I put the tensioner back in and continue to ride the rest of the day. as the day goes on the valves sound much looser than they were originally before the adjustment was done, I decided to call it a day and tear the bike down myself. I shim the loose valves and button the bike back up, but now the thing sounds god awful. Straight up clacking coming from the right side of the top end. Since then ive probably had the bike apart and back together 4 or 5 times trying to figure out the problem. Its not the auto decompression valve, every valve is in spec, timing is solid, and the cam chain tensioner is working fine. I'm stumped. anyone have any thoughts?
  6. While checking my valve clearances and putting on a hot cam on the exhaust i noticed my intake cam was a tooth off. Read about stock hydro one sometimes not doing its job. so instead of buy one for $60 a made one for my '08 250 xcfw with a the following. 10x1 60mm long bolt. 10mmnut and oring to fit bolt. make the hex end round so it fits through the case. Slot the other end for a flat head thread into stock cap install and tension. lock the nut down. used some blue locktight to make sure no oil leaks out.
  7. Just finished adjusting the valves on my 2008 crf250r, I kicked once and the motor turned over maybe one rotation and then it locked up. I thought the cam was set correctly but it' possible its off. I also forgot to use the engine locking bolt on the bottom side that locks it at tdc while working on it but I wasn' concerned because I didn' feel like I was turning the engine the chain while working on it. Before the valve adjustment it kicked over fine. What could the issue be?
  8. MNThumper250

    CRF250X: Stock Cam, R Cam, or Hot Cam?

    I'm considering swapping my stock cam for an R cam or Stage 1 Hot Cam. I did a bit of research and found that the R cams vary from year to year, some having more broad power, while others have a punchy mid to top. The Hot Cam seems to have the best bottom end, with not as much up top. My question: what cam would you guys recommend for someone who rides mostly trails (hare scrambles and enduro) with little to no MX riding? Is it even worth swapping cams? I wanted something with more mid to top, but I also don't want to lose all of the beastly bottom end that this bike has. I heard that the '05 R cam is pretty good for overall power/torque. The Stage 1 Hot Cam looks the most promising, but is it that different from the stock X cam? Anyone have experience with these cams?
  9. So I was feeling pretty good having done just finished replacing the shims and re-timing the cams. As I was double checking the timing by rotating the motor via a socket, I stuck my finger where the ACCT would go and could feel the cam chain go slack and then immediately get tight. The cam chain would move about inch or so (I attached a picture of the cam position immediately before the cam chain goes slack) Is this normal motor operation as the motor goes through the cycle? For the rest of the cycle the cam chain tension is consistent. I have never closely monitored the behavior of the cam chain but it strikes me as being odd, and something that could be damaging at 7000 RPM. Please help a brother out, I am at a loss and dont really want to start taking apart the bottom end for no reason. I know it s hard to diagnose from a keyboard, but would appreciate any guidance.
  10. Garage_Dog

    Cam decompression spring

    Does the decompression spring need some preload? In other words, do I add a turn or 2 to the spring increase tension? It sure seems like there isn't much preload on that little spring. -thanks for the help gd
  11. Alex Seprish

    Kx250f new topend help

    Hi, I have a new topend in my bike, head, valves, buckets, everything except exhaust cam. My intake cam is also new and when i put the holder on it, it is a little hard to move and when i tighten the bolts i cant move it at all(with my hands, not with motor i did not try it with motor) any ideas? My exhaust cam moves fine no matter what.
  12. tater1994

    2000 wr400f cam timing

    I know this has probably been over a hundred times. But im at wits end. Does anyone know the STOCK timing for a 2000 wr400f? Right now i got it at intake came is at 9 12 and 3. And i got the exhaust cam retarded (clockwise) one link for the yz time? Is this right for a 2000? Ive heard that the 2000 wr400 the stock time was one of the cams retatded one link? Idk..it wont crank for nothin..it ran the other night for 20 min perfect. And hasnt since. Bowl keeps overflowing. Ive adjusted the float and tried to blow through the inlet with the float shut and it was sealed...its getting spark. Seems to have great compression. ..idk WTF else it could be! !??? Im at my wits end with this bike...
  13. Rx7man

    XR400 cam timing issues

    So I tore the 400 apart and put the new cam chain in, but the timing marks make no sense.. I line up the T mark on the flywheel and it doesn't feel like it's actually at the top of the stroke, with the valves closed it's still building compression.. could someone have put the flywheel on keyed wrong? sounds unlikely.. Yes, I'm sure it's the T mark and not the F mark... Should I put a dial indicator on the piston through the plug hole and use that as a mark instead? I've been getting so pizzed off with the automatic decompression I removed it all, and will just have a manual decomp like the 500.. so much easier to start! The old cam chain was REALLY stretched, I didn't have any accurate method of measuring it, but I'm sure if the were cut and laid end to end, the old one would have been 1/8th to 1/4" longer.. If you bent them sideways, the old one would bow twice as much as the new one. Should be getting the new tensioner for it here soon too.. I do NOT want a repeat of my close call. Any tips for getting that cam timed would be great
  14. Doogee57

    Cam question

    I've got an XR 200 cam with "WB1013" engraved on it. Any ideas what I might have here? I think it may be a 'White Brothers".
  15. Hi, I recently got an old beat up 1996 XR600 for cheap. I want a project bike to completely tear down and learn on, so I figured I would start here. I am an engineer and mechanically inclined, but I am not a mechanic. I lack the experience to identify potential issues as being problematic, so I would like to post pictures of what I find and ask you experience guys to help me out. Here is what she looked like when I bough her: With the exception being that the cylinder and head were attached (but not the head cover). The bike is actually pretty much complete, everything else (engine side covers, seat, plastics, etc) are in boxes. The previous owner said he got it for a trade for doing some work, he started to take it apart, didn't have time, so left it and sold it to me for cheap. Upon examination, there are some things that worry me. The rocker arms and sub rocker arms are the most destroyed I have ever seen. They are toast right? I bought all new rocker arms and sub rocker arms. What would cause this to happen? The wear is where they come into contact with the cam right, so does that mean the cam is toast too? Here is the cam: It looks pretty bad, flash makes it looks worse tho. What would cause the rocker arms and cam to look this bad? Ran with no oil, over heated, normal wear since 1996? Here is the cylinder: So this is where I absolutely have no idea. How do you tell when its bad? It feels smooth to the touch, but there are the vertical scratch marks and what looks like water marks/blotches? At what point do I have to toss it or get it resleeved? Any rules of thumb I should follow? I plan to hone it with a little drill attached honer, I will do the proper research to make sure I do it right, hopefully this will be enough? Here is the piston: Again, there are vertical scratch marks, but I dont know at what point it becomes a problem. This seems a little worrisome to me. Here is the rod: So.... is it supposed to be discolored like that...lol. I worry that in the past it got really hot and caused the rod to become discolored. If this is the case, what else could be affected that I should check? Do I have to split the cases and replace it? I would prefer not to, but this is purely for the sake of learning, so it might be a good opportunity. Here is something weird: Notice how the rear shock reservoir is hose clamped to the frame? As soon as I removed this hose clamp I could rotate the entire rear shock on its axis by probably 3-4 inches at the reservoir. So I could grab the reservoir and move it away from the frame (to the right) about 3-4 inches. The entire rear shock assembly rotated with it. However, there is no vertical free play at all!? So I could grab the rear wheel (suspended off the ground) and move it anyway and it didnt have any slop at all. Whats going on here? A bushing or something worn? The front forks seem a little rusty up by the seals, its worse in real life than in that picture... anything i can or should do about that? With the given info above, here is what I am in the process of doing: All new rocker and sub rocker arms, cam chain, cam chain tensioner and guide, top rear shock bushing (it was cheap, idk if it will help tho), cylinder honed, new piston rings, new plunger/spring (this was just missing? maybe someone ran it without the plunger and that caused the rocker arm / cam wear?)... And thats about it, will this be enough? Any theories on what happened to it and what else I should inspect? Cosmetic: And then for fun I'm going to make her look as beautiful as possible. I have a home sand blasting / powder coating setup that I got for cheap for the sake of learning. I am going to try powder coating pretty much everything on her. Here's what I've done so far while waiting for parts: After sand blasting: After powder coating: Granted my DIY powder coating setup is a little ghetto, but it does the job. I need a bigger oven to fit the cylinder and exhaust in tho. Everything is pretty much off now: I'm still waiting on stator wire, epoxy, and gaskets to come before putting things together / fixing. I am planing on learning how to rewind the lighting coils on my stator so I can put an led light bar on it, like my 400 ... and honestly... I have only really needed to use the light bars and pod lights a handful of times. But for like 70$ on amazon for all 4, you cant really go wrong lol. Side note, does anyone know what the baja designs regulator/rectifier is rated to? Max watts? I would prefer not to blow it. Thanks for any help or input on what I should do and look out for, I really appreciate the help
  16. I freshly rebuild top on my 09 yzf250 with new valves and piston. I put it back toget her and it ran mint, turned off starting back up and really out noise coming from top end( not normal ) so I was freaking out. I took the valve cover off after guessing it was the auto decompression sticking and played with it a little and it had stopped, pUT it back together ran mint, thought I had solved the problem. Yet when starting it up again after a oil change the noise was back again. ffs, tore it apart and took the exhaust cam out and it was sticking a little but nothing to worry about ( I thought ) I gave it a good clean out with brake cleaner and air compressor. as the decompression comes on it gets stuck half way and feels like something is grinding away in the shaft. sometimes I cant even get it to return. I can even see a edge pointing off the exit of the shaft, means it's being grinding away the insides, so something is stuck in there but how do I remove the decompresson system to clean out? cheers
  17. Checking my valve clearances and trying to take out the cam chain tensioner. Seems the frame blocks the removal, if I just unscrew the unit as a whole, bring it out to give slack, can I then just screw it back in or do I need to reset the tensioner? Anyone have a way to get this out without removing the head?
  18. Bilbo Swaggins

    Cracked Threads on Cam Guide

    Hi All, First time posting here, just reaching out for information on what can be done about this situation. In course of replacing a valve cover gasket several years ago, I noticed a tiny crack in the threads for one of the valve cover mounts on the exhaust cam guide. I believe it's from the previous owner over tightening it. Well, my bike was leaking oil all over the side of the head so I took the cover off again the other day, before a ride, to apply some silicon and take care of that oil leak. In doing so I noticed the crack has gotten considerably worse. Here is a picture: In looking at it, it appears that even if it cracked all the way, nothing would really happen, as the cam itself is held in place on either end by the 4 bolts, and the "bridge" in the middle mostly serves as a location for those threads to hold the cover on. It also is my understanding that this guide is machined with the head (or something like that), so you can't just get another exhaust cam guide and bolt it on. But, this hasn't ever really made sense to me as I have hot cams in my bike as well installed by previous owner, and those have a different profile than stock cams but don't require any machining, just drop and go. Bike currently runs like a top. So, what are my options? I saw a few other, older posts where something similar happened. It seems perhaps having a shop plug weld it then drill new hole would be the preferred approach but not sure. Much appreciated. -Brad
  19. brettbogler

    KLX 650 Exhaust Cam

    I had my ACR break off of the exhaust cam and it seems to be irreparable. I'm wondering if anyone has some good leads on finding a replacement as Kawasaki no longer makes them. Maybe looking for a parts motor?
  20. Hello YZ250F 2016/2017 CAM Intake Exhaust LIFT what is the lift of the OEM cam´s? Intake? Exhaust? OEM PART NUMBERS 1SM-12170-20-00, 1SM-12180-20-00 (2017-2018) 1SM-12170-00-YX, 1SM-12180-10-00 (2014-2016) Please can someone tell me the value? Thank you, Cu Thomas
  21. Hey everyone, new member here. I recently traded my 2001 Honda 250EX for a 1985 XR200R. The bike is tight all around and looks like it wasn't used much in its life. However, there is a noise coming from the engine that's not from the crank. It's up in the head somewhere. I adjusted the vales and started the bike up, only to hear a slightly quieter noise which led my father and I to believe that it's the Cam chain. If the bike ends up needing one, where can I find an aftermarket chain? I've checked eBay, xrsonly, and the normal part sites and I am not able to find anyone who has a chain in stock. I called my local dealer and they said they could get one for $70, but I just think that I can find it online for cheaper. It doesn't have to be OEM. Thanks
  22. Dan huss

    Xr250r cam help!

    I have an 1989 xr250r that had an oil issue that I already fixed but my camshaft is rocked one of the lobes messed up and I can't find another. My question is can i use a 1996 or later cam on it they look the same but I was hoping someone knew thanks
  23. Hi all...sorry if this is a question that has come up in the past. I attempted to search through the forums but couldn't find an answer to my exact question. In the off season we picked up a ShiftUp Spartan big valve head for an xr/crf100. The plan is to put into our race bike that is currently running higher lift Megacycle camshaft. After looking at the ShiftUp head we noticed that the valve steams and springs are significantly smaller than what we are currently running the stock head. As a matter of fact when you look at the Megacycle catalog it specifically calls for using heaver springs. So the question is has anyone else had any experience running this head with anything other than the stock camshaft? If so what is the lift and duration of the camshaft you are running and have you run into any issues with valve float, or dropped valves? Thanks for the help.
  24. Hey guys. I got a pair of white and blue ODI grips for my birthday but want to order a quick turn cam for it. Odi customer support tells me that they don't make them but aftermarket parts should work. I'm not trying to spend $100 on a G2 or a power parts quick turn aluminum throttle... Wondering if the replaceable cams that come on the 17's would work Here's a link to what I am referring to http://www.ktm-parts.com/AOMC/product/26102924100?gclid=Cj0KEQjwiI3HBRDv0q_qhqXZ-N4BEiQAOTiCHnJktmpYUsC4lAQpAsIPkpHUZiNYvDVeTQ8439xzfTsaAvbK8P8HAQ Does anybody know if these cams are compatible with the MY 16 fe501s. Or is there another budget friendly alternative?
  25. TY REX

    Who knows what this is?

    Just did a cam rebuild strictly by the service manual and now there is an intermittent ticking coming from the cam cover area. Does anyone know what this is?