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Found 23 results

  1. I recently purchased a 2010 KX250F from a friend of mine that had been sitting in his garage for about 5 years. The bike seemed to be in decent shape and the price was right so i picked it up. I went through most of the bike before riding it (air filter, oil, greased all the bearings, adjusted suspension, changed all the fluids, etc) The valves sounded a bit loose so i decided to have a "Buddy of mine" adjust the valves. I get the bike back, go for a ride and the cam chain tensioner falls out while i was riding, luckily i caught it very soon after it happened and it never jumped timing. I put the tensioner back in and continue to ride the rest of the day. as the day goes on the valves sound much looser than they were originally before the adjustment was done, I decided to call it a day and tear the bike down myself. I shim the loose valves and button the bike back up, but now the thing sounds god awful. Straight up clacking coming from the right side of the top end. Since then ive probably had the bike apart and back together 4 or 5 times trying to figure out the problem. Its not the auto decompression valve, every valve is in spec, timing is solid, and the cam chain tensioner is working fine. I'm stumped. anyone have any thoughts?
  2. How do I fix this mess I've gotten myself into? I was adjusting valves and turned the engine over without the cam chain tensioner in place and ended up with the arrows at 11:30 and not 12:00. The bike is at TDC compression stroke. I am in the 15th pin though.
  3. Hi guys, I’ve got a 2005 kxf250 here and Im concerned about how oil is fed from the bottom end to the top end ... anyway I bought it blown up... I’ve had to buy new bottom end casings, new cylinder head new valves all that lot.. but once it was put back together and oil was put in, I went to re time the bike and noticed there was no oil by the magneto hole, I took the side cover off to inspect whether oil was actually in this side casing where the conrod and big end bearings sit and there’s nothing? But normally oil is fed through the timing chain to the top end isn’t it? you can clearly see by the sight glass there is the right amount of oil inside there (not to mention I measured the amount of oil I put in anyway) I’m just wondering if there’s another oil top up point I’m struggling to find or is this just how the bike is? Because there is two oil drain hole plugs so it’s just a thought, any advice will be appreciated!!
  4. Good day! I recently picked up a new, 2019 DRZ400SE in stock form. After doing a little research about common upgrades and farkles, I've found a lot of owners replace the automatic cam chain tensioner with a manual due to premature wear of the cam chain. I wasn't sure if Suzuki had rectified this issue by now and wanted to see what y'all thought about changing it out while it's still under warranty. Any tips would be appreciated. Fair winds and following seas.
  5. While checking my valve clearances and putting on a hot cam on the exhaust i noticed my intake cam was a tooth off. Read about stock hydro one sometimes not doing its job. so instead of buy one for $60 a made one for my '08 250 xcfw with a the following. 10x1 60mm long bolt. 10mmnut and oring to fit bolt. make the hex end round so it fits through the case. Slot the other end for a flat head thread into stock cap install and tension. lock the nut down. used some blue locktight to make sure no oil leaks out.
  6. 1984 Honda XR200, runs good but has weird chattering sound. Found the sound online and it indicated it was cam chain issues. I took the cover off (the flywheel?) And oiled spilled out. Oil had fine metallic dust in it...could kinda move the chain with a screwdriver without removing the flywheel and it def seems to have some play....correct me if I'm wrong cuz I'm a noob at mechanics, but I think I need to rebuild engine, new chain, new gears maybe, valves...what do I do?!
  7. I am trying to change my cam chain. I CANNOT get the dam front cam chain guide out...looks like the head has to come off. Looks like it is pinched between the head and cylinder. If so. Can i reuse the head gasket? I have never reused them before. But in thus case i dont want to waiit on another...thanks in advanced
  8. My Xr600 has 28,000 km and started doing this clicking like it would when decomp is engaging and starts to sort of miss and at idle holds for a bit but starts dying. Kind of suspect on the cam chain after reading the forum's but keen on some advice before I open it up. Thanks in advance. Since first post might as well as a pick of when it was riding 👌
  9. My XR250R needed a new timing chain (and clutchplates) and I've noticed that some people doesn't have a clue where to start, and thinks it's a job for pro's... But I can tell you that everybody can do it, so I've made some pictures during my process. See it as a reference next to your manual 😉 The patient, yes... I have painted it a bit grey just to see if I like the look of a grey XR engine in my Honda Banana XR/DRZ project (see topic elsewhere on TT) This engine has a 77mm Wiseco piston kit (so it's a 277cc) together with a new headgasket and I flowed the inlet and exhaust ports a bit. That it needed a new timing chain was something I already knew, but when I installed the overbored set I noticed that my cilinder head wasn't that good either... A XR engine is quite bulletproof but it's heads are prone to crack... Typical, these cracks always (99 of 100 times) appears next to the exhaust valves and plug hole. Also a typical XR250R failure are their head gaskets.... I still don't understand why Honda haven't made the front stud a bit beavier at the exhaust side... If you torque your cilinder down, it's almost at it's point where threads will vanish... so it happens that a lot that people over thighten this front stud > biggest cause of a leaking head gasket... I just fixed it with tapping a new M12 (! instead of 10mm) thread into the cilinder, so no more leaking head gaskets... ever... Ok ok... now back to the timing chain... If you lift of the valve cover you'll see something like this, and you know that your chain is shot if you experience the same view as below; next to the chain you see a piece of metal where the left side of it, sunk into the metal slider. Only on the right side you'll see a small piece of metal sticking out... well, if you see this, you can be sure that your chain is shot : And, in my case, that the "T mark" in the inspection hole doesn't line up anymore with the 2 lines on your cam sprocket: Just 1 line (on the right side of the sprocket) is visible The bike started really bad (it took a lot of kicks to wake up the beast) and that's isn't really strange when your ignition is a bit off... 😉 Anyway... let's start: Press with your finger on the metal tab (which is sticking out) at the cam chainslider, it releases the tension of the chainslider. Now grab with your other hand a screwdriver and pry out the left sunken piece of metal and try to get this piece as high as possible out of this 'sink hole'. You know when you're high enough when a small gap appears in which you can put a paperclip or something to secure the left slider to sink back again into the hole. I have used a pop rivet to secure it: Now the tension is of the chain so now you can start with loosing the cam chain, cam and chain sprocket. At the backside of the cam chain sprocket you'll see 2 10mm bolts. Just turn them loose, no worries, the sprocket will stay put on the cam. Use a rachet on the other side of the engine (inspection hole) to line up the 2 cam chain sprockets bolts for easier unbolting. Next, you'll need to wiggle out the cam, I found it easier to pull the 2 ball bearings first. Then the cam will slide out easily. Then you'll have something like this Don't worry if the chain falls down the hole, we are going to open up this side of the engine case anyway 🙂 Loose all the engine case bolts and don't forget to loose the bolt of the oilpipe too (shown on the picture). If you're sure that all bolts are loose (the 3 bolt for the oil filter and filter itself can stay), tap with a rubber hammer on the engine case as most of the times the gasket acts as glue so splitting the case will be a bit of a challenge... whatever you do, don't use a screwdriver to pry open the case!!!! EVER!!!! When everything is off nicely, you'll see this: You notice that the cam chain is hidden after the clutch cage and behind the pickup coil. So that has to be removed otherwise the chain can't be changed... We start with removing the clutch, you have to loose the 4 10mm bolts in cross patern, really easily and step by step. I usually do max. 3 turns per bolt and move to another one. If you don't do this and you decide to completely loosen the bolts one by one then the clutch springs could be damaged. If the 4 bolts are loose, then you can take the springs out. And while they're out you can measure them for wear. Mine are good enough for another decade of abuse 🙂 Next thing to do, is to remove the clutch plate cage (holder). You can do this on different ways... With the 'special Honda tool', with the "special low budget tool, which is clothing or a towel between the gear sprockets" or just a plain ol air impact wrench. I use the last one: Clutch cage out of the engine You can check these for wear too, the service limit is 2.69mm, mine are 2.78... But also measured one plate (first plate engine side) which was only 2.71mm So... nearly at the service limit... Hmmm... I decided to order some new clutch plates... It's really to near to it's service limits to ignore... Anyway, let's proceed with the chain: When the clutch removed we still need to loosen the bolt which holts the pick up sprocket, same story here as with the clutch cage, let the impact wrench do it's magic: When this bolt (24mm) is loose, then we have full access to the chain and you'll have the following pieces of the pick-up axle; Not needed to mark anything, as Mr. Honda did the marking for you.... Also it is almost impossible to put it back on the wrong way as it's a one way fit 😉 Full access to the chain now: You now can remove the chain from this side really easy I know a lot of people swear by OEM parts, but I prefer D.I.D. as my cam chain supplier... why? They're cheap... €20 for a chain is a better price than OEM costs... and yes, they are reliable as I've used these chains in a lot of bikes (also supersports) with no problems. You don't need to be an expert to see which chain is new and which chain is shot: Put the new chain in in reverse order, so follow the steps from above back to the beginning... When everything (so your cam, cam chain sprocket and cam bearings, pick up gearing) is bolted up again, use a torque wrench to secure the the pick up axle (or cam chain axle in the engine) at 65 NM (is what I use). Before you torque this bolt down (and install the cam chain sprocket) make sure that the "T'" mark in the inspection hole lines up with the mark at the case, and that the 2 lines of the cam sprocket lines up with the top of the cilinderhead. (see pictures below). If you're sure that everything lines up then you can bolt it up, torque it down and don't forget to remove the paperclip (or pop rivet) you've used to keep the chain tension off! When the job has been done correctly you'll see something like this: Also notice that you won't have that 'sink hole' anymore and the sprocket lines up with the top of the cilinder head 😉 Perfect! 🙂 🙂 🙂 A bit less perfect is, is that I have to wait for my clutch plates to arrive... When they arrive I'll continue in this topic to make it a complete write up. Hopefully I have shown that doing some mild engine work isn't that difficult and that a lot of cam chain related questions has been answered with this topic. Update will follow when I have my plates in house! 😉
  10. Hey fellas, Got my new to me derzz back together and I have some worries... First off, the idle seems to be a bit rough, but I figured I'd ask for a second opinion from you guys, does this sound okay? It seems like every few revolutions the motor drops off a sec. Second, the top end of the motor sounds very clacky, not sure if this is normal for this bike but let me know what you think from the video. Lastly, I noticed when in neutral, holding the engine at mid rpm causes what sounds like little pops in the exhaust. I was looking into it and was wondering if either of these could be symptoms of a stretched cam chain. My bike has 30k miles on it and still has the ACCT so I figured maybe this was a possibility? The valves are within spec (although one exhaust valve is on the tighter end of the spec). Maybe a MCCT could alleviate these problems? Let me know your thoughts.
  11. Hi all, so I recently snagged an 02 WR250f off of Craigslist that "blew while riding" and was seized and wouldnt turn over for dirt cheap as a project bike to fix and flip. (story of rebuild at the bottom if interested). I bought new parts, put everything back together and am having trouble setting the timing. Ive been down almost every thread out there in search of an answer and cant find anything conclusive. SO, Ive put the engine at TDC and set the intake and exhaust cam marks at the top of the head, confirmed that there are 13 pins between top timing marks, and that the lobes are indeed pointing away from each other at the 11 and 2 positions. After all that, I can "kick" the bike over by hand, easily. it feels like there is no compression and one of the valve sets is opening too soon, or late. Ive moved both cams forward and backward one tooth each way, experimenting, hoping to find a position that will run. and cant seem to get it to work. At one point, it did start, but would only run at mid to high rpm. but I dont remember what position I had the cams. I've also read about putting a yz cam in the wr, no clue if thats been done or not (how can you tell?). so that might also be throwing me off a little. any help would be awesome! -Evan Rebuild Story: So the head looked to be brand new or rebuilt as it was shiny and new looking and the rest of the motor had a used patina. It turns out the water counter balance gear had taken a dump and taken out the water pump gear in the process and had jammed the engine from turning. So I got a new counter balance gear and water pump gear, threw it all in and noticed the counter balance on the other side of the engine from the gear (next to the timing chain) was rubbing on the timing chain guide. It was making contact, but was still able to rotate all the way around. I am guessing that is what caused the gear to shatter. So, I used a dremel to grind the back side of the guide down just a tad where there was a wear mark and there doesnt seem to be any more contact.
  12. Plagued with very loud knock from inside of the cam cover of the cylinder head following rebuild on broken gearbox basket case. Removed top cam chain guard that was not the knock cause, then cut off the entire decompression assembly and that was not the cause of the knock.......... On reassembly noticed the exhaust right front bolt had bits of helicoil on it and was stripped only leaving three bolts to hold the cam cover on. Question could the missing bolt cause the case to flex enough to make the knocking noise?
  13. Hey guys, Made a profile to seek any knowledge on a problem I am having. I have a 2009 klx 250SM that I purchased with blown a crank bearing. I rebuilt the engine, new bearings, gaskets and put a BB 351 kit while I was there. Also has bigger TM carb. There is a new cam chain and a Krieger tensioner I got for it also. It starts and runs well, however im experiencing a lot of cam chain noise. I've adjusted the tensioner in completely tight until the engine dies, it still makes the noise. (I dont have it normally that tight, Just wanted to make sure it wasn't the tension that was making the noise) I took off the clutch case and inspected, nothing unusual and guides are in place. I took off valve cover and inspected top end, everything looks normal and made sure valves were in spec. I have not checked my sub cam chain tensioner - the one under the oil line that looks like I would have to take the pipe off to get to. At this point, I'm about to buy a new chain, guides and sub tensioner, though I really don't want to. Here is a video of it running. You can clearly hear the cam chain rattling away. The pic below is of the cam guides on the bottom end. Let me know what you guys think and if anyone else has experienced this. Mike
  14. Hey everyone, new member here. I recently traded my 2001 Honda 250EX for a 1985 XR200R. The bike is tight all around and looks like it wasn't used much in its life. However, there is a noise coming from the engine that's not from the crank. It's up in the head somewhere. I adjusted the vales and started the bike up, only to hear a slightly quieter noise which led my father and I to believe that it's the Cam chain. If the bike ends up needing one, where can I find an aftermarket chain? I've checked eBay, xrsonly, and the normal part sites and I am not able to find anyone who has a chain in stock. I called my local dealer and they said they could get one for $70, but I just think that I can find it online for cheaper. It doesn't have to be OEM. Thanks
  15. 2007 DRZ-400e - I have lately had a weird engine noise coming from inside the engine at exactly 4800 - 5000 rpm. It is like a high vibration / grinding noise. I have done some digging on forums on TT but nothing seems to have quiet the same problem. The noise is going up and down gears, but only once the engine is hot. I have ordered a MCCT incase it is the Cam-Chain (though a cam-chain could make noise through all rpm) but has anyone else had this problem or a big enough gear head to give some advice on what to check? Bike has done around 20,000km's. Any help is greatly appreciated guys!!
  16. I just replaced the rings in my 07 yz450f and when i put it back together it did not kick start so i pull started it and it ran (kinda) but at high rpms it would bog. i know its not the carb because i had it in another bike and it ran fine. but then i could not start it a second time. it would start for 1 or 2 seconds but not run. so i took it apart and found the timing was off (more then i thought) but one of the cam timing marks was always to high or to low. so i got it as close as i could but now it has a ton of compression, is that good? please help
  17. I have a 2000 DRZ400S, I got the bike with less than a thousand miles on it now has 1200. Around 900 miles I put on a manual cam chain tensioner because I knew about the automatic cam chain tensioners and I did a extended Drive 66 miles, which I know isn't a lot but for me it is being a new Rider. Upon coming back from the ride I stopped 15 miles away from the house and I heard the engine making a weird/ feeling weird as well on how it drove. So I got the DRZ towed back and now I'm opening up the head cover because I believed it was the old timing chain that I had to switch out because through the 19 years it could have been stretched out extremely far do to the automatic cam chain tensioner. in the picture I posted it looks like the plastic could only be from one of the guides for the cam chain, I'm curious if I should take it apart completely to clean out the Plastics change out the timing chain and possibly change out the plastic for the guide I don't know what to do please help. Thank you so much for your time. A.C. DrzFlorencybell
  18. 2017 CRF450R about 40 hrs on bike. so my cam chain is slapping enough to hear it at idle and when accelerating/decelerating. can I adjust the stock chain tension? If so so i screw the little "flat head bolt" in or out on the tensioner? And how far? don't want to ride the bike until i can get this situated. Thanks for the help in advanced, Jake
  19. Hi peoples, I recently bought an '05 DRZ 400E with lots of aftermarket stuff on it, including a manual cam chain tensioner. I have never done any top end work. How do I check to see if it's in spec?
  20. Hi all, I took apart my '86 Honda XL600r because the spark plug thread was stripped. Now I am in the process of putting everything back together but I have some questions. Also this is my first time taking apart a 4-stroke. My first question: Is my timing chain worn out? I can just lift it very slightly but it looks pretty tight and cannot move it a teeth when the tensioner is on. However the hole on the tensioner is not pointing up anymore but slightly to the back. My second question: When re-installing the timing chain I put the cylinder on Top Dead Center and tried to put the timing chain on the timing sprocket as precise as possible, however the marking stripes are slightly of when installed, if I move the chain a tooth it will be again too far of. Can I leave it like this? And is this adjusted by setting the valves?
  21. So the bike had the camshafts taken out to adjust the tight valve clearances and at the same time a used FCR 39mx was swapped into the project. The camchain was left sitting at the bottom of the engine one night, after a few too many shots... long story short the engine was turned over through a couple strokes and the cam chain bundled up at the bottom. Cam chain was recovered and bike was put back together with new shims, clearances were triple checked and new (used) FCR 39mx was installed. Bike struggle like hell to run, had to turn up idle adjustment screw quite a bit. Only jet that is different from the standard DRZ FCR jetting happens to be a potentially lean size 42 pilot jet. Gaskets in fcr are all new, midbody wasn't touched. Anyways there is a gnarly clanging sound coming from the bike, especially at the end of the video when the revs slow down before it dies. Could that be from the carb, or could it be that the cam chain or valves have an issue? I tore it down and rechecked the clearances after running it for about 5 minutes, everything was right in the middle of the range. I went ahead and rebuild the mikuni paperweight, so I can always test and see how the bike runs with that. First I would like to see if anyone has an opinion based on the sound of this video, i'm tired of taking the fcr out and putting it back in so many times with all the bikes I maintain for my family. You'd think I would get faster at it, and sure that's true but my eczema skinned hands hate it the most! Does it sound like the noise is from the top end of the motor?? Thanks for any input.
  22. I have on 06 crf250r. Problem- Making loud low noice seems to be coming from top end or left side(while seated). It sounds like the weird decompression tick when a bike usually idles too low and has those hard clacks but in my case it has started to happen at higher and higher rpms and now the noice is at idle too. I just redid the top end, was my first time redoing it, but has about 8 hours on the new top end and was running fine in the beginging. I redid the top end because after a long trip I heard the bike start to kind-of pulsate with that low loud noice while riding. What do you guys think? Im going to take it apart but what should I even look for?
  23. hello drz enthusiasts gathering parts and preparing to big bore my 2000 drz s, about 30k km parts acquired: fcr 39 web cams 288/540 exhaust is aftermarket, unknown but good diameter header and no restrictions. questions: do these cams need upgraded springs? guess I should get new Ferrea valves and new OEM valve guides, correct? guess a new cam chain would make sense, correct? what other parts aka gaskets, bearings, etc would you recommend? cheers from Thailand
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