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Found 13 results

  1. ADAVEN6

    Need Help (Timing)

    I just replaced the rings in my 07 yz450f and when i put it back together it did not kick start so i pull started it and it ran (kinda) but at high rpms it would bog. i know its not the carb because i had it in another bike and it ran fine. but then i could not start it a second time. it would start for 1 or 2 seconds but not run. so i took it apart and found the timing was off (more then i thought) but one of the cam timing marks was always to high or to low. so i got it as close as i could but now it has a ton of compression, is that good? please help
  2. tater1994

    2000 wr400 cam chain guide

    I am trying to change my cam chain. I CANNOT get the dam front cam chain guide out...looks like the head has to come off. Looks like it is pinched between the head and cylinder. If so. Can i reuse the head gasket? I have never reused them before. But in thus case i dont want to waiit on another...thanks in advanced
  3. So the bike had the camshafts taken out to adjust the tight valve clearances and at the same time a used FCR 39mx was swapped into the project. The camchain was left sitting at the bottom of the engine one night, after a few too many shots... long story short the engine was turned over through a couple strokes and the cam chain bundled up at the bottom. Cam chain was recovered and bike was put back together with new shims, clearances were triple checked and new (used) FCR 39mx was installed. Bike struggle like hell to run, had to turn up idle adjustment screw quite a bit. Only jet that is different from the standard DRZ FCR jetting happens to be a potentially lean size 42 pilot jet. Gaskets in fcr are all new, midbody wasn't touched. Anyways there is a gnarly clanging sound coming from the bike, especially at the end of the video when the revs slow down before it dies. Could that be from the carb, or could it be that the cam chain or valves have an issue? I tore it down and rechecked the clearances after running it for about 5 minutes, everything was right in the middle of the range. I went ahead and rebuild the mikuni paperweight, so I can always test and see how the bike runs with that. First I would like to see if anyone has an opinion based on the sound of this video, i'm tired of taking the fcr out and putting it back in so many times with all the bikes I maintain for my family. You'd think I would get faster at it, and sure that's true but my eczema skinned hands hate it the most! Does it sound like the noise is from the top end of the motor?? Thanks for any input.
  4. Hi all, I took apart my '86 Honda XL600r because the spark plug thread was stripped. Now I am in the process of putting everything back together but I have some questions. Also this is my first time taking apart a 4-stroke. My first question: Is my timing chain worn out? I can just lift it very slightly but it looks pretty tight and cannot move it a teeth when the tensioner is on. However the hole on the tensioner is not pointing up anymore but slightly to the back. My second question: When re-installing the timing chain I put the cylinder on Top Dead Center and tried to put the timing chain on the timing sprocket as precise as possible, however the marking stripes are slightly of when installed, if I move the chain a tooth it will be again too far of. Can I leave it like this? And is this adjusted by setting the valves?
  5. Hey everyone, new member here. I recently traded my 2001 Honda 250EX for a 1985 XR200R. The bike is tight all around and looks like it wasn't used much in its life. However, there is a noise coming from the engine that's not from the crank. It's up in the head somewhere. I adjusted the vales and started the bike up, only to hear a slightly quieter noise which led my father and I to believe that it's the Cam chain. If the bike ends up needing one, where can I find an aftermarket chain? I've checked eBay, xrsonly, and the normal part sites and I am not able to find anyone who has a chain in stock. I called my local dealer and they said they could get one for $70, but I just think that I can find it online for cheaper. It doesn't have to be OEM. Thanks
  6. While checking my valve clearances and putting on a hot cam on the exhaust i noticed my intake cam was a tooth off. Read about stock hydro one sometimes not doing its job. so instead of buy one for $60 a made one for my '08 250 xcfw with a the following. 10x1 60mm long bolt. 10mmnut and oring to fit bolt. make the hex end round so it fits through the case. Slot the other end for a flat head thread into stock cap install and tension. lock the nut down. used some blue locktight to make sure no oil leaks out.
  7. billy400cc

    cam timing off. 2003 DRZ400s

    How do I fix this mess I've gotten myself into? I was adjusting valves and turned the engine over without the cam chain tensioner in place and ended up with the arrows at 11:30 and not 12:00. The bike is at TDC compression stroke. I am in the 15th pin though.
  8. Otto646

    kx250f God Awful Noise KX250F

    I recently purchased a 2010 KX250F from a friend of mine that had been sitting in his garage for about 5 years. The bike seemed to be in decent shape and the price was right so i picked it up. I went through most of the bike before riding it (air filter, oil, greased all the bearings, adjusted suspension, changed all the fluids, etc) The valves sounded a bit loose so i decided to have a "Buddy of mine" adjust the valves. I get the bike back, go for a ride and the cam chain tensioner falls out while i was riding, luckily i caught it very soon after it happened and it never jumped timing. I put the tensioner back in and continue to ride the rest of the day. as the day goes on the valves sound much looser than they were originally before the adjustment was done, I decided to call it a day and tear the bike down myself. I shim the loose valves and button the bike back up, but now the thing sounds god awful. Straight up clacking coming from the right side of the top end. Since then ive probably had the bike apart and back together 4 or 5 times trying to figure out the problem. Its not the auto decompression valve, every valve is in spec, timing is solid, and the cam chain tensioner is working fine. I'm stumped. anyone have any thoughts?
  9. Hey guys, Made a profile to seek any knowledge on a problem I am having. I have a 2009 klx 250SM that I purchased with blown a crank bearing. I rebuilt the engine, new bearings, gaskets and put a BB 351 kit while I was there. Also has bigger TM carb. There is a new cam chain and a Krieger tensioner I got for it also. It starts and runs well, however im experiencing a lot of cam chain noise. I've adjusted the tensioner in completely tight until the engine dies, it still makes the noise. (I dont have it normally that tight, Just wanted to make sure it wasn't the tension that was making the noise) I took off the clutch case and inspected, nothing unusual and guides are in place. I took off valve cover and inspected top end, everything looks normal and made sure valves were in spec. I have not checked my sub cam chain tensioner - the one under the oil line that looks like I would have to take the pipe off to get to. At this point, I'm about to buy a new chain, guides and sub tensioner, though I really don't want to. Here is a video of it running. You can clearly hear the cam chain rattling away. The pic below is of the cam guides on the bottom end. Let me know what you guys think and if anyone else has experienced this. Mike
  10. Plagued with very loud knock from inside of the cam cover of the cylinder head following rebuild on broken gearbox basket case. Removed top cam chain guard that was not the knock cause, then cut off the entire decompression assembly and that was not the cause of the knock.......... On reassembly noticed the exhaust right front bolt had bits of helicoil on it and was stripped only leaving three bolts to hold the cam cover on. Question could the missing bolt cause the case to flex enough to make the knocking noise?
  11. gatorades

    DRZ-400e Engine Vibration

    2007 DRZ-400e - I have lately had a weird engine noise coming from inside the engine at exactly 4800 - 5000 rpm. It is like a high vibration / grinding noise. I have done some digging on forums on TT but nothing seems to have quiet the same problem. The noise is going up and down gears, but only once the engine is hot. I have ordered a MCCT incase it is the Cam-Chain (though a cam-chain could make noise through all rpm) but has anyone else had this problem or a big enough gear head to give some advice on what to check? Bike has done around 20,000km's. Any help is greatly appreciated guys!!
  12. Hey fellas, Got my new to me derzz back together and I have some worries... First off, the idle seems to be a bit rough, but I figured I'd ask for a second opinion from you guys, does this sound okay? It seems like every few revolutions the motor drops off a sec. Second, the top end of the motor sounds very clacky, not sure if this is normal for this bike but let me know what you think from the video. Lastly, I noticed when in neutral, holding the engine at mid rpm causes what sounds like little pops in the exhaust. I was looking into it and was wondering if either of these could be symptoms of a stretched cam chain. My bike has 30k miles on it and still has the ACCT so I figured maybe this was a possibility? The valves are within spec (although one exhaust valve is on the tighter end of the spec). Maybe a MCCT could alleviate these problems? Let me know your thoughts.
  13. Hi all, so I recently snagged an 02 WR250f off of Craigslist that "blew while riding" and was seized and wouldnt turn over for dirt cheap as a project bike to fix and flip. (story of rebuild at the bottom if interested). I bought new parts, put everything back together and am having trouble setting the timing. Ive been down almost every thread out there in search of an answer and cant find anything conclusive. SO, Ive put the engine at TDC and set the intake and exhaust cam marks at the top of the head, confirmed that there are 13 pins between top timing marks, and that the lobes are indeed pointing away from each other at the 11 and 2 positions. After all that, I can "kick" the bike over by hand, easily. it feels like there is no compression and one of the valve sets is opening too soon, or late. Ive moved both cams forward and backward one tooth each way, experimenting, hoping to find a position that will run. and cant seem to get it to work. At one point, it did start, but would only run at mid to high rpm. but I dont remember what position I had the cams. I've also read about putting a yz cam in the wr, no clue if thats been done or not (how can you tell?). so that might also be throwing me off a little. any help would be awesome! -Evan Rebuild Story: So the head looked to be brand new or rebuilt as it was shiny and new looking and the rest of the motor had a used patina. It turns out the water counter balance gear had taken a dump and taken out the water pump gear in the process and had jammed the engine from turning. So I got a new counter balance gear and water pump gear, threw it all in and noticed the counter balance on the other side of the engine from the gear (next to the timing chain) was rubbing on the timing chain guide. It was making contact, but was still able to rotate all the way around. I am guessing that is what caused the gear to shatter. So, I used a dremel to grind the back side of the guide down just a tad where there was a wear mark and there doesnt seem to be any more contact.