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Found 16 results

  1. I have recently done a lot of maintenance to my WR 450f and there are still some issues which concern me with it, when I took out the clutch basket there was a gear with a bent piece on it (picture attached) This was probably done by the previous owner but I think it should probably be replaced? - When I checked the valves they were only opened for measuring when the knob things were pointed down instead of up, (picture attached) I dont know if the timing is messed up or if it has been retarded to the yz specs. ( the picture of the cam chain was when the valves were open, at the same time as the knob things were downwards in the other picture). -There is also a clattering noise from the engine but it seems to run fine? I will try to make a video for mine soon but it sounds pretty much like this persons - sorry about the bad pictures.
  2. Does this cam look damaged? I bought a used one online but can't tell if it's good or bad. The right side doesn't feel perfectly smooth but yet it doesn't feel scratched either.
  3. So to simplify this, I'm getting an XR100 like next weekend and I was looking for upgrade parts to make it competitive with a crf125, or just make it go faster . Ive heard of many of the mods already but i have a very tight budget. Is there any other rejetting or other things I need to do after installing these? I'm thinking FMF header, atc200x carb, bbr120 kit, and modded air filter/ intake. (wanted a hotcam camshaft too but may be out of budget). I really only have about 350 to spend. I was also wondering if the cr80 throttle and cable are really needed for the atc200x catb. And the big question is if i buy these is there anything id have to buy to make them work or fit? nothing worse then brand new parts you cant use... also is this the 200x carb? http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/301891165034?chn=ps&dispItem=1
  4. hi i am rebuilding a 2013 kx250f an i can't get the cams to spin freely after the engine wase oil starved the cams got discolored and have groves but are not the worst thing the seats lost shape and i can't tighten the bolts without the cam's getting looked up allso the ex cam bering can move up and down int seat is there a way to fix this without getting a new head like honing or machining thnks
  5. Hey guys, this is probably just a brain fart of a thought, but is it possible to use an emodel exhaust cam with auto decomp removed as an intake cam? I'm sure there is a good reason not to but the reason escapes me at the moment, it's not a good pic but it looks possible. And using this camshaft profiles the e model exhaust seems to fit within the limits of Web and yoshi intake cams if not perfectly its close. It seems very close to the rhc grind.
  6. Alright, so I just got done rebuilding the top end on my 07 KX 450F and as I am getting ready to install the top of the cylinder head I notice I have one last piece remaining that I can't account for. I mark everything and take several pictures so I can make sure everything is put back together perfectly, but somehow this piece evaded me. I showed where I think it goes in one of the pictures I provided. Can someone tell me if I am right or if this piece goes somewhere completely different?
  7. So I screwed up big time. I had a small leak coming from the outer screw on the timing chain plug and I pulled it apart to find the o ring is smashed. No biggie so replaced it threw it back in and went to start it and it wouldn’t turn over. Turns out you gotta reset the tensioner, so looked it up how to reset the the tensioner did that put it all back together properly but it still would not turn over. Found a video saying you have to have it at top dead center for it to engage properly, (now that I think now was probably wrong). Any way pulled it apart and proceed to find top dead center without the tensioner in place and the chain slipped on one of the sprockets. And now I believe the cams are out of sync and I’m not going to be able to properly set the timing back in to sync. So my question is what should I do to get my cams back into sync and how to get it top dead center? And why was the tensioner not allowing the bike to turn over? How do I get it back to normal?
  8. So, looking for a little wisdom. I just rebuilt my bike last night and finished at 12:30 this morning. Last night i wanted to make sure i could get the bike to fire up and make sure everything is okay and begin the break in. As luck would have it, the HG is leaking coolant. what would y'all recommend i do. I have a cosmetic gasket because i have a cylinder works 269cc. P.S. it was running for 15 minuets with me modulating the throttle when i noticed it. It was a VERY small little line but its still leaking coolant with less than 20 minutes in the the motor. Thanks -Brandon
  9. Hi, Anyone on the forum, or can be referred too, that is an experience engine builder with extensive experience on this DRZ motor? Someone that has built multiple motors and fully understands camshaft profiles? Calling Hot Cams is useless. I have yet to call Webb. I know they are are good. They have done cams for me in the past. I just have a bunch of questions on what I can get away with without head modifications. Using parts off an E or e3 model. I've been digging around and found some info. Can cams from an LTZ400Z be used? Whats the profile? Are the e3 model cams from the 400e a direct bolt in? Springs OK? Decompression still active. I have a bunch of questions. If anyone can help, Id certainly appreciate it. Thanks!
  10. Bike already has tt-kit fcr39mx, mrd exhaust, 3x3, jets, etc... Hypothetically if money weren't really an issue and you were set on putting a quality 434/440 bbkit and set of cams.. what would you purchase? Mostly need help figuring out the valve/spring situation.. don't want to put something together and have it supported by weak parts & grenade at some point down the road when I could've prevented it with real parts.. Having a hard time figuring out which cams require new valves & whether or not I'll need different springs.. want a grind that'll give me more power midrange. Mostly just ride wheelies and &%$#@! around.. pulling 3rd up with stock cams and displacement is getting old. If someone coule procure a partlist for a braindead bastard he'd really appreciate it.. http://www.webcamshafts.com/pages_vehicles/motorcycle/suzuki/499.html
  11. Hi all, so I recently snagged an 02 WR250f off of Craigslist that "blew while riding" and was seized and wouldnt turn over for dirt cheap as a project bike to fix and flip. (story of rebuild at the bottom if interested). I bought new parts, put everything back together and am having trouble setting the timing. Ive been down almost every thread out there in search of an answer and cant find anything conclusive. SO, Ive put the engine at TDC and set the intake and exhaust cam marks at the top of the head, confirmed that there are 13 pins between top timing marks, and that the lobes are indeed pointing away from each other at the 11 and 2 positions. After all that, I can "kick" the bike over by hand, easily. it feels like there is no compression and one of the valve sets is opening too soon, or late. Ive moved both cams forward and backward one tooth each way, experimenting, hoping to find a position that will run. and cant seem to get it to work. At one point, it did start, but would only run at mid to high rpm. but I dont remember what position I had the cams. I've also read about putting a yz cam in the wr, no clue if thats been done or not (how can you tell?). so that might also be throwing me off a little. any help would be awesome! -Evan Rebuild Story: So the head looked to be brand new or rebuilt as it was shiny and new looking and the rest of the motor had a used patina. It turns out the water counter balance gear had taken a dump and taken out the water pump gear in the process and had jammed the engine from turning. So I got a new counter balance gear and water pump gear, threw it all in and noticed the counter balance on the other side of the engine from the gear (next to the timing chain) was rubbing on the timing chain guide. It was making contact, but was still able to rotate all the way around. I am guessing that is what caused the gear to shatter. So, I used a dremel to grind the back side of the guide down just a tad where there was a wear mark and there doesnt seem to be any more contact.
  12. So Ive decided its time to pull apart my favorite machine and freshen it up, and I'm looking to make some improvements in the process. I already have a 3x3 mod and a JD jet kit done and it seemed to have changed the world. The stock bike just plain sucked and now its a lot better. I never expect 450 race bike power here but I know there is a little more and I'm wondering if the juice is worth the squeeze. I already plan to add a header and exhaust, an FCR39 carb and stage 1 hotcams. After some research it really seems like those places are where the gains actually come from, so would it be worth it to throw a 434 big bore kit at this bike or just stick with what I already mentioned and a new stock bore top end??? Also my rides are often solo and pretty isolated,how much of a reliability headache can I expect with these mods?
  13. Hi all, Does anybody have the part number for the original OEM "E" exhaust camshaft? By chance is it 12720-29F01 (E3 and E28 models)?
  14. Hey guys, need some help pinpointing the problem on my 2010 yz450f. so it's a turbo snowbike setup, and late this past spring I was doing some last runs before season ends, outside temps were warmer, my temp gauge wasnt working and it was overheating on the hillclimbs. Started dying on a hillclimb and loosing power, I thought it was low fuel so I pop a u turn and go down, check to find out it's got plenty of fuel. Tried to start it- no luck. Tow start- no luck. Got towed back the the truck. The turbo setup was used, previously installed on another 2010 yz450f, and I didn't tune it after install. (Dont ask why 🤦‍♂️) Next season is almost here so I decided it was time to fix it. Procrastination at its finest 🤣🤣. So it has a good spark. No amount of starting fluid got it to even pop. Compression check- doesn't feel low on compression at all. Bought a new Leak down tester- 9% leak. Checked the cams- they appeared to have jumped several teeth on the cam chain 🤔? While fiddling with getting it at TDC for leak down testing, I noticed an inconsistency with the TDC timing mark on stator and actual piston TDC. the actual piston TDC is about 0.7inches before the TDC mark on stator lines up with mark on the cover. Is that normal, or did I bend my crank? I believe it is bent, as this also explains why my cams appeared to have skipped several teeth, with no valve damage. I just need some verification before I start splitting the cases, as I doubt I will be able to visually see this bend... Thanks in advance.
  15. Hello everyone, I am currently rebuilding my top end on my 2001 Wr250f. Everything has been going smoothly until it came time to set the cam timing. I have set the motor to tdc, and slipped both cams under the timing chain. No matter what I do, I cannot seem to align the camshaft timing marks level with the head of the motor. The exhaust side cam aligns perfectly with the dot sitting flush with the head line. The intake side cam mark always ends below the head line or above. Neither way looks natural. The dot is either too deep to the point I can't see it, or too high to the point it floats above the head line. Which way is correct? Thanks in advance for any input.
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