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Found 18 results

  1. frontline510

    Need help with Timing

    Hello everyone, I am currently rebuilding my top end on my 2001 Wr250f. Everything has been going smoothly until it came time to set the cam timing. I have set the motor to tdc, and slipped both cams under the timing chain. No matter what I do, I cannot seem to align the camshaft timing marks level with the head of the motor. The exhaust side cam aligns perfectly with the dot sitting flush with the head line. The intake side cam mark always ends below the head line or above. Neither way looks natural. The dot is either too deep to the point I can't see it, or too high to the point it floats above the head line. Which way is correct? Thanks in advance for any input.
  2. I'm looking for some advice about the wear that I found on the center of the camshaft and the opposing surface on the head. Could I clean up the head? Would it be negligent to re-use the camshaft after smoothing it up some? The thing still ran pretty decent actually—it just smoked and leaked. Images attached.
  3. Stephen122193

    2005 kx250f Decompressor moving

    Hello all, Not sure if this is the proper place to post. I have a 2005 kx250f with a brand new head from millennium technologies. This means new valves, seats, and springs. I also have a brand new cylinder, piston, and rings. The bike is making a ticking noise that seems to be coming from the head. I checked the valves clearance and it is within specifications. The timing is also correct. Here is my question When I took a look at the exhaust cam, I noticed that the auto decompressor moves around a lot WITHIN the camshaft (So not hitting the camgear but closer to the cam lobes). I know that it is supposed to open and close when I move it with my finger and it does so smoothly, but I mean that I am able to wobble it around within the groove that it sits in within the cam. Is the auto decompressor supposed to fit snuggly within the hole in the camshaft? When I move the decompressor around it hits the cam and that causes ticking. I just want to know if this movement is normal. Thank you, Stephen
  4. LoganC14

    CRACKED CAMSHAFT HOLDERS

    OK so I have a 2013 crf250r jumped time and as I was putting the can holders back on I cracked the left one I ordered new ones and cracked them too. Im looking to buy either the left cam holder or a set. Or looking to buy a 2013 crf250r complete head. And help would be great. And any info is helpful. Thank you for your time
  5. Need help on deciding what to do or how to find what i need. Bought a 1978 Honda xl125s for father son project. It had low compression, found piece of metal holding both valves open. It had beaten piston, valves and compression chamber up some. Havent located machine shop that works on cycles yet so ordered upper end rebuild kit containing cylinder and new piston and gaskets and cleaned up other components. Lapped valves. Seemed ok but leaking compression on intake valve. So, orded cylinder head which I thought was for 1978 . This included valves, springs, and camshaft etc... first we noticed camshaft not the same. Rest of it looks ok or same. Discovered it must be a pre 1976 head which although it is a split 2 piece head it used contact points instead of the cdi pulse generator we have. So the shaft is shorter. Cant put in my old somewhat worn camshaft because the journals and bearings and cap cover etc are different. I have not seen any heads specifically for my year model online so cant just order right one and resale other. Also i have new valves for mine since seller would not confirm if valves were included. Seller also has not responded about this not fitting. So the question is:? Do I 1: order parts to convert to points ignition?? Dont want to and may be unexpected complications. 2: see if new head can be machined to except my original cam? Or new cam shaft extended further? 3: get original head machined, valve job , new guides and seals and new oem valves installed etc.. . Note suspect new parts are chinese but suspect if i can find someone willing to do this it would cost much more than new parts. 4: try to do a diy valve job and guide replacement? Have never done this and do not have tools.?? Thank you sooooo much for any advice or info!!
  6. Hi all...sorry if this is a question that has come up in the past. I attempted to search through the forums but couldn't find an answer to my exact question. In the off season we picked up a ShiftUp Spartan big valve head for an xr/crf100. The plan is to put into our race bike that is currently running higher lift Megacycle camshaft. After looking at the ShiftUp head we noticed that the valve steams and springs are significantly smaller than what we are currently running the stock head. As a matter of fact when you look at the Megacycle catalog it specifically calls for using heaver springs. So the question is has anyone else had any experience running this head with anything other than the stock camshaft? If so what is the lift and duration of the camshaft you are running and have you run into any issues with valve float, or dropped valves? Thanks for the help.
  7. Let me share an email with you that I sent to Freddy, the owner of 4 strokes Unlimited and XRSonly. Obviously nothing went well after Al Baker sold it. It took me over three months and over $500 to get XRsOnly to take care of a problem that is their creation. Anyone running a reground cam (HRC copy) from XRsOnly is heading for disaster unless you take steps to fix their laziness. In the photos below you can see the results of losing the JBweld in your XRsonly cam, as well as how the cam looks fresh from the store (JB weld slopped all over, comes off with your fingernail), and what I did for a permanent fix (drilled and tapped for grub screws). I am running all HRC valve train hardware and would not have been able to replace it if it would have had a melt down. Do we blame the legalization of weed? They seem to have very short memories down there.
  8. Paul Olesen

    Checking and Setting Cam Timing

    Today I'm going to cover how to check and set cam timing, which is something you can do if you have adjustable cam gears in your engine. This is a procedure often performed by race engine builders to ensure the valvetrain performs just as they intend, and ultimately so that they extract the desired performance out of the engine. Adjustable cam gears typically aren't a stock option but are abundantly available in the aftermarket. The following text is exerted from my book, The Four Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook, so if you find this info valuable please take a look at the entire book. Degreeing the camshafts is the process of checking, and if necessary altering, the cam timing so that the timing is set perfectly to specified timing values. On stock and performance engines, cam timing can be off slightly due to manufacturing variations in parts such as the camshafts, cam gears, cam chain, cylinder, cylinder head, crankshaft, crankcase, and gaskets. With so many parts having an influence on cam timing, it is necessary to adjust and correct the timing so it coincides precisely with the desired timing values. The biggest factor determining how the camshafts must be timed is whether the cam lobes are symmetrical or asymmetrical. Camshaft lobes that are symmetrical have opening and closing ramps that share the same profile. Asymmetrical cam lobes have opening and closing ramps with different profiles. Symmetric and asymmetric camshafts are timed differently. First we will focus on the timing of symmetrical camshafts. Symmetric camshafts are timed most accurately by determining the position of the camshaft’s lobe center in relation to crankshaft position. A camshaft’s lobe center is where peak lift occurs, which is the most important timing event of the camshaft. Since the tip of the camshaft is rounded, it would be difficult to determine the lobe center by taking a direct measurement of peak valve lift. The opening and closing points of the camshaft are also of little use because the cam opens and closes gradually. This makes it difficult to determine the precise position in which the camshaft opens or closes the valves. The lobe center position is a calculated value based on the position of the camshaft at two specific points of valve lift, typically with valve clearances set to zero. Normally the position of the camshaft is recorded at 0.050” (1.27mm) of lift as the valve opens and 0.050” (1.27mm) of lift when the valve closes. By recording the position of the camshaft at a specific valve lifts, the cam lobe is on a predictable portion of the opening and closing ramps. The center of the cam lobe is exactly in the middle of these two measurements. To calculate the lobe center of a symmetrical cam lobe you will need to do the following: 1. Add the measured opening and closing timings together 2. Add 180 degrees to the sum 3. Divide the answer by 2 4. Subtract the smaller value of the two opening and closing numbers from the answer to reach the lobe center value. Once the actual lobe center value has been determined on the engine, it can be compared to the specified lobe center timing presented by the manufacturer, aftermarket cam supplier, or the engine tuner. If the measured lobe center position coincides with the targeted position, all the work is done. If not, the cam gear will need to be adjusted so the timing is corrected. If you are checking the timing on stock cams and lobe center information isn't presented, you will need to determine the lobe centers the manufacturer recommends. To do this, the opening and closing timing information supplied in the service manual can be used. Aftermarket camshafts should come with a timing card full of useful information to set the cams correctly if they are adjustable, otherwise the lobe centerline can be calculated if the opening and closing timings are known. If you don’t like math, there are plenty of lobe center calculators available on the internet you can use. For the Kawasaki KX250F engine with the stock camshafts, the timing information is as follows: Intake Opens 40° BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) Intake Closes 72° ATDC (After Top Dead Center) Intake Lobe Center = ((40 + 72 + 180) ÷ 2) - 40 = 106° My calculated lobe center timing is 106°. When I check the cam timing, this will be the value the real engine hopefully yields. The lobe center for the exhaust cam can be found the same way. For the KX250F exhaust cam: Exhaust Opens 69° BBDC (Before Bottom Dead Center) Exhaust Closes 49° ATDC (After Top Dead Center) Exhaust Lobe Center = ((69 + 49 + 180) ÷ 2) - 49 = 100° Something not obvious I want to touch on is that if the intake opens after top dead center, a negative value for the opening should be used. If the exhaust closes before top dead center, a negative value should be used here as well. To start the process of checking the timing the valve clearances should be set to zero. Thicker shims can be used and zero clearance can be confirmed with a lash gauge. A degree wheel and pointer will need to be installed on the engine. There are many ways of attaching these items and each engine will provide its own challenges. Here I’ve left the flywheel on and installed a couple washers behind the degree wheel to space the degree wheel from the flywheel. Then the flywheel nut is used to secure the degree wheel. The pointer can be made from welding rod, a coat hanger, or anything else you can find. I’ll be finding TDC with the cylinder head installed, so I used one of the exterior head bolts to secure the pointer. If you will be finding TDC with the head off, choose another location. Before the cams can be timed, TDC must be found. This can be done with the cylinder head on or off depending on the process you use. The piston dwells a few degrees at TDC so more accuracy than zeroing the degree wheel to the piston’s highest position is necessary. Similar to finding the cam lobe center, TDC can be found by measuring equal distances on the piston’s up and down stroke and then confirming that the degree wheel timing is equal on both sides at the measured distances. Dial indicators or piston stoppers are commonly used to do this. HOT TIP: Piston stoppers can easily be made by removing the center section of a spark plug and then tapping a suitably sized threaded hole in the remaining part of the plug so a bolt and lock nut can be installed. The stopper can then be easily threaded into the spark plug hole. Whichever method of finding TDC you decide to use, start by moving the crankshaft to the approximate TDC position. Then without rotating the crankshaft move the degree wheel so that TDC on the wheel coincides with the pointer. Next, set up your piston stops or measure piston travel on both sides of TDC. In this example I’m using a dial indicator which extends through the spark plug hole down into the cylinder. I’ve decided to take measurements at 0.050” (1.27mm) of piston travel before and after TDC. At each measurement point the number of degrees indicated on the degree wheel before and after TDC should be the same if I have found true TDC. If the degree wheel values don’t read the same before and after TDC determine which way the wheel must be rotated so that the values become equal. Then carefully rotate the degree wheel without rotating the crankshaft to alter the degree wheel’s position. Once altered, recheck and confirm that true TDC has been found. This can be a tedious process but is extremely important for checking cam timing accurately. Repeat the procedure for checking TDC 3 - 5 times to ensure repeatability and accuracy. After true TDC has been found, be extremely careful not to inadvertently move the degree wheel or pointer. Do not rotate the crankshaft using the nut securing the degree wheel to the crankshaft. Instead, use the primary drive gear nut or bolt to rotate the engine over. Next, set up a dial indicator on the intake or exhaust lifter bucket, depending on which camshaft you are checking. You’ll have to use some ingenuity here in determining the best way to secure the dial indicator to the engine. I’ve used a flat piece of steel and secured it to the cam cap using the cylinder head cover holes. Make sure the indicator travels as parallel to the path of valve travel as possible for accurate readings. Also makes sure at least 0.060” (1.52mm) of travel from the indicator’s resting position is possible so adequate valve lift can be measured. Once the indicator has been set up, the cam timing can be checked. Whenever checking timing only rotate the engine over in the direction of engine rotation. Reversing engine rotation will result in inaccurate measurements due to the reversal of gear meshes and chain slack. If you miss a measurement point, rotate the engine over until you get back to the previous position. Slowly rotate the engine over until 0.050” (1.27mm) of valve lift has occurred. Then record the position of the degree wheel. Next, rotate the engine until the cam begins to close the valve. Once only 0.050” of indicated valve lift remains record the position of the degree wheel. Repeat this process of checking opening and closing positions 3 - 5 times to check for repeatability before calculating the cam lobe center. Once you are confident in your measurements proceed to calculate the cam lobe center. On the KX250F engine my intake lobe center is as follows: Measured Intake Open (0.050” Lift) 39 ° BTDC Measured Intake Closure (0.050” Lift) 74 ° ABDC Intake Lobe Center = (( 39 + 74 + 180 ) ÷ 2 ) - 39 = 107.5° On my stock KX250F engine the actual lobe center is 107.5°. At this point if I had adjustable cam gears, I could rotate the gear slightly so that the lobe center corresponded to the specified lobe center value. The same procedure is followed for checking and adjusting the exhaust cam timing. Remember if mistakes are made when setting cam timing big problems can result, so it is best to be very patient and focused when performing this task. Always check your work 3 - 5 times to make sure the timing is repeatable and making sense. When tightening adjustable cam sprockets, use a locking agent and be sure to torque the bolts to their specified values. When working with single camshafts that have both the intake and exhaust lobes ground on them, focus your efforts on achieving correct intake timing. Correctly setting intake timing is more important since it has a larger effect on power. The intake valves also have higher lift than the exhaust valves, potentially creating clearance troubles between the piston and valve if the intake valves are mistimed. With your new fangled ability to adjust cam timing, you may be wondering what happens if you advance or retard the intake and exhaust cams from their standard positions? The lobe separation angle refers to the number of degrees which separate the lobe center of the intake lobe from the lobe center of the exhaust camshaft. The lobe separation angle can be calculated using the following formula: LSA = (Intake Centerline + Exhaust Centerline) ÷ 2 As a rule of thumb, reducing the lobe separation angle by advancing the intake and retarding the exhaust camshaft will increase valve overlap, move power further up the power curve, increase cylinder pressure, increase the chance of detonation, and reduce the piston to valve clearances. On the contrary, increasing the lobe separation angle by retarding the intake cam and advancing the exhaust cam will have somewhat of the opposite effect. There will be less valve overlap, power will move to a lower RPM, chances of detonation will be reduced, and the valve to piston clearances will increase. The likelihood of finding more or better power by advancing or retarding the camshafts is not all that likely because manufacturers, tuners, and aftermarket companies already test specific combinations of cam timings to death. In addition, if the lobe separation angle is reduced, the piston to valve clearances should be checked to ensure they are adequate. My advice is to run the prescribed cam timings to reduce the chance of problems occurring. Asymmetric camshaft timing can be set in a similar fashion to symmetric camshafts, however instead of focusing on the lobe center position, the specific opening and closing points will need to be measured. Timing cards supplied with asymmetric cams should have specific instructions for setting timing, but normally valve clearance is set to zero and cam positions are recorded at specific lift heights. Based on the measured opening and closing positions, adjustments are made to the timing until the timing matches the specified values. I hope you enjoyed this exert on checking and adjusting cam timing. As always feedback is appreciated so please leave comments below. If you're interested in more engine building info check out my book The Four Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook. Right now we are having a 4th of July Sale where everything on our site is 20% off with the discount code fourthofjuly2017. Just be sure to enter the code upon checkout so you receive your 20% off! So if you've had your eye on our Four Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook or even our Value Pack, but haven't pulled the trigger yet - go for it! Availabe at: DIYMotoFix.com - Paul
  9. Greetings TT! Hoping to glean some knowledge from you YZ owners. This is by far the nicest vehicle of any type I have ever owned and absolutely love the bike. My experience is with street bikes and 2 stroke dirt bikes. That said, I now have about 30-35 hours on the bike. Around 5 of those hours are beginner level XC race hours, the rest is a mix of slow single track and faster double track. I realize its past time to do the necessary top end checks. It's just so damn fun to ride I kept putting it off lol. Oil change was after 1st hour, then 3rd hour and since then every 2nd ride-around 8 hours with filter every other oil change. Screen is cleaned every time, and I always crack the bleeder screw til oil runs out. I have until now been using Yamalube conventional oil that the dealer recommended. I am switching to the Yamalube synth from this point on. Air filter is cleaned oiled after every ride, I use No toil green stuff and swap between the stock filter and a funnel web filter if its going to be dry and dusty. SO, just now checking the valve clearances. Clearances are good. However, I pulled the cams out anyway for a look. I'll share my findings and appreciate any insight First off the exhaust lifter or bucket that corresponds with the decomp is showing lots of wear. New part has been ordered ( I also realize that my clearance on that valve should be rechecked when new part arrives), but I am curious if this type of wear is normal for such low hours? When checking by hand the weight/spring/pin all move fine and easily retracts. So I am assuming the pin is not stuck out when running. When I first got the bike it was fairly hard to start sometimes and before my first race would not stay running at all. Another racer with same your WR advised me to turn the idle up. Did the trick. I'm not used to a modern 4 stroke-or 4 stroke dirt bikes in general other than my DRZ for that matter, so I did not realize how high the idle needs to be. Starts no problem and runs great always since. Perhaps it took a beating early on from a low idle/ frequent cranking to start? Also, I tend to ride lots of technical trails that require lugging/clutching, perhaps the revs being low from the lugging is not overcoming decomp spring? Finally, more recently I have to doing single track trails that include gnarly engine off descents, and sometime I will just click it back into gear and pop the clutch to restart. Perhaps I'm not spinning the motor over as quickly as the starter will and the decomp pin is beating on the lifter til the motor restarts? My decomp pin has rings or ridges that look like tooling marks, but on the pics of say hot cams, their decomp pin is quite rounded and polished smooth. Thoughts on this? I have not yet measured anything with a mic or plastigauge, just visual checks. More wear than I was expecting, but again I'm used to prehistoric 2 strokes. So here's some pics:
  10. TeamGrey

    07 yz250f

    Have anyone used wiseco center intake valve with the four rest beginning OEM? How does it turn out in terms of power and reliability?
  11. All, I just bought a 1982 XT250 project bike. We had one of these in the family in the 90s, so I know the model fairly well already. I guess my plan is just to have a small, simple bike for shorter local trips, and maybe some light trail touring. I do know it has some known weaknesses, i.e. suspension, brakes, 6V electrics, corroding mufflers, and open frame/exposed engine cases. So I am looking for tips regarding big bore/ higher comp pistons, camshaft (Web Cam) stiffer shock, fork springs, 12 V upgrade, and so on. I was also thinking about fabricating a stepped SS headpipe, and use a 1 1/2" inlet Supertrapp IDS2 muffler. I guess the weight saving will be replacing heavy stock parts with lighter parts in alloy etc (Sprocket, handlebar, rear fender reinforcement for tail light etc), and using smaller/ lighter tail light, indicator lights. And also replacing the stock instruments with a digital dash from KOSO, Trailtech etc. Any and all tips are welcome!
  12. Hey everyone, new member here. I recently traded my 2001 Honda 250EX for a 1985 XR200R. The bike is tight all around and looks like it wasn't used much in its life. However, there is a noise coming from the engine that's not from the crank. It's up in the head somewhere. I adjusted the vales and started the bike up, only to hear a slightly quieter noise which led my father and I to believe that it's the Cam chain. If the bike ends up needing one, where can I find an aftermarket chain? I've checked eBay, xrsonly, and the normal part sites and I am not able to find anyone who has a chain in stock. I called my local dealer and they said they could get one for $70, but I just think that I can find it online for cheaper. It doesn't have to be OEM. Thanks
  13. I freshly rebuild top on my 09 yzf250 with new valves and piston. I put it back toget her and it ran mint, turned off starting back up and really out noise coming from top end( not normal ) so I was freaking out. I took the valve cover off after guessing it was the auto decompression sticking and played with it a little and it had stopped, pUT it back together ran mint, thought I had solved the problem. Yet when starting it up again after a oil change the noise was back again. ffs, tore it apart and took the exhaust cam out and it was sticking a little but nothing to worry about ( I thought ) I gave it a good clean out with brake cleaner and air compressor. as the decompression comes on it gets stuck half way and feels like something is grinding away in the shaft. sometimes I cant even get it to return. I can even see a edge pointing off the exit of the shaft, means it's being grinding away the insides, so something is stuck in there but how do I remove the decompresson system to clean out? cheers
  14. Dan huss

    Xr250r cam help!

    I have an 1989 xr250r that had an oil issue that I already fixed but my camshaft is rocked one of the lobes messed up and I can't find another. My question is can i use a 1996 or later cam on it they look the same but I was hoping someone knew thanks
  15. Time Left: 13 days and 2 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    My bike was stolen so I'm liquidating my spare parts. A few years back, I installed "E" cams on my bike, so these have been in the toolbox ever since. They were removed from a well maintained 2003 DRZ-400S. I'm estimating they have about 10k miles on them. There are no irregular wear marks on them and the cam journals looked great when they were removed. If you need more pictures, please PM me. I can only post 10 for the advert, but I can take more if there is a specific concern. $20 each + shipping. Thx for looking.

    $20.00

    West Lafayette, Indiana - US

  16. BoondocksUtah3

    Cam Bearings help

    Hi all- Bought a 84 xr250 with a blown head gasket cheap. Have fixed the head, but during fix noticed the camshaft bearings are worn pretty bad. No longer OEM available, none on ebay. Any aftermarket options? Thanks in advance. Eric
  17. yeti_runner

    XL250R Web Camshaft

    Hi yall, I am new here so I will introduce myself. My name is Collin and I ride a 1982 XL250R. I got it for a steal because it was smoking a ton. I did a full top end rebuild on it and now it runs like new! Now knowing that it is solid and running well, I would like to start adding some more power to the engine considering that it only had 17 horsepower stock... I have already modded a Pro Circuit Platinum exhaust pipe from a 98 KLX300R to fit on the bike. I do need to rejet the carburetor, but I probably won't do that until I get a new cam and a pod filter. Now for cams, I looked for a very long time and finally came across Web Cam Inc. They have three different grind cams for my bike and I was wanting to see if any of y'all have used any of these grinds before on a 250 and what you would have to say about it. Also, I am not too good at determining how cam specs will effect the performance of an engine, so if someone know how to do that, could you help me out with the specs below? What would add the most power to my bike (forged piston, free flowing exhaust, pod filter, ported and polished head)? They do give descriptions of what kind of engine each cam would be best for, but my main issue is that I am not sure how to tell if my engine fits into the modified or "well prepared" category.. There is a 402 grind with .360/.360 lift and 238/238 degrees duration at .050. There is a 340b grind with .372/.372 lift and 248/248 degrees duration at .050. This one is likely not an option because it is for racing engines, but there is a 389a grind with .390/.390 lift and 250/250 degrees duration at .050. http://www.webcamshafts.com/index_blank.html?pages/vehicle_search.html Thanks in advance!
  18. Alex Seprish

    2005 kx250f Camshaft problems Please Help

    Hello, I have a 2005 kx250f and the intake cam bearing has some left to right play in it, not much at all but I was wondering how much if any it can have in it. Also the cams have some wear from lack of oil change or something among the lines of that, but I think this can be sanded or something,any input? The whole head assembly besides the cams are brand new and I dont want to mess it up.
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