Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'carb'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Dirt Bikes
    • General Dirt Bike Forums
    • Make / Model Specific
    • Dirt Bike Technical Forums
    • Special Interest Forums
    • Dirt Bike Regional Discussion
  • General
  • ATV / UTV
  • Inside TT
  • ThumperTalk Clubs FAQ & Help's FAQ/Help & Discussion
  • Chadwick, Missouri: Information & Riding's Topics
  • So Cal Flattrack's Club Forum
  • Thumperjunkies - Ottawa & Eastern Ontario Riders's Discussion
  • Jersey MX and offroad's Places you ride
  • Jersey MX and offroad's Discussion
  • SE Ohio Riders's Club Discussion
  • NorCal Trail Riders's Topics
  • Northern Nevada Roaming Bastards's Discussion
  • North Texas Enduro Riders's Topics
  • Twistin it in PHX's Introduce yourself!
  • Twistin it in PHX's Discussion
  • So-Cal Track and Trail's 1st club ride coming soon...
  • Moto TnT Track & Trail's Moto Tnt Racing Questions
  • Moto TnT Track & Trail's Rider's Forum
  • Dualspot Riders Orange County So~CaL's Club Discussion
  • Chester County PA DS/Adventure's Im here
  • Chester County PA DS/Adventure's Ride Dates & Times
  • Niagara region's Club Discussion
  • Walker Valley Single Track Riders's Unanounced ride(s) recap(s)
  • Walker Valley Single Track Riders's Supplements & recovery aids
  • Walker Valley Single Track Riders's Bikes maintenance & restoration
  • Walker Valley Single Track Riders's Safety gear & apparel
  • Walker Valley Single Track Riders's General
  • Walker Valley Single Track Riders's Riding technique
  • Sacramento Area Trail Riders's Club Discussion
  • Sacramento Area Trail Riders's Info from another club
  • NC woods riders.'s Club Discussion
  • Colorado US Route 50 Rides's Club Discussion
  • Middle GA Off-Road & Trails's Club Discussion
  • WNY Dual Sport Trail Riders's General Discussion's
  • SoCal JUST RIGHT riding club's SUNDAY 10.13
  • OREGON Riders Club's Club Discussion
  • Glamis bike crew's Topics
  • Glamis bike crew's One last trip
  • Glamis bike crew's Let’s hit the dunes!
  • South Texas Dirt riders's Topics
  • PNW Trail Maintenance Club's Trail equipment and how to carry it
  • PNW Trail Maintenance Club's General Discussion
  • PNW Trail Maintenance Club's Introduce Yourself
  • New England riders's Events
  • SC Dirt Riders's Topics
  • Club RMX's Photos and videos
  • Club RMX's Engine & Engine tuning
  • Club RMX's Chassis, Suspension, & tuning
  • Club RMX's Electrical and electronics
  • Club RMX's Body, fender, & Graphics
  • Club RMX's Build projects
  • Club RMX's Everything else
  • Club RMX's Classifieds
  • North GA Trail Riders's Topics
  • NorOnt Trail Riders's Topics
  • Virginia Supermoto's Club Discussion
  • Kentucky Trail Riders Club's Topics
  • ADK ADV's Notes
  • Pennsylvania Dirtbike Riders's introductions
  • Missouri Dual Sport Riders's General discussion
  • Missouri Dual Sport Riders's General discussion
  • Missouri Dual Sport Riders's Adventurepalooza 2021
  • Missouri Dual Sport Riders's Organized ride section
  • Missouri Dual Sport Riders's Gpx files
  • Missouri Dual Sport Riders's For sale items
  • WISCONSIN TRACK RIDERS's Racing

Categories

  • Powersports Gear & Apparel
  • Universal Parts & Accessories
  • Parts & Acc. - Japanese Bikes
    • Honda Parts & Accessories
    • Kawasaki Parts & Accessories
    • Suzuki Parts & Accessories
    • Yamaha Parts & Accessories
  • Parts & Acc. - Euro Bikes
    • Beta Parts & Accessories
    • Husqvarna Parts & Accessories
    • KTM Parts & Accessories
    • Other Euro Parts & Accessories
  • Motorcycles
    • Off-Road Motorcycles
    • Dual Sport Motorcycles
    • Street Motorcycles

Products Categories

Vehicles Categories

Garages

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Calendars

  • ThumperTalk Clubs FAQ & Help's Club Calendar
  • Chadwick, Missouri: Information & Riding's Events
  • So Cal Flattrack's Club Calendar
  • So Cal Flattrack's Events
  • Thumperjunkies - Ottawa & Eastern Ontario Riders's Club Calendar
  • Thumperjunkies - Ottawa & Eastern Ontario Riders's Events
  • SE Ohio Riders's Events Calendar
  • NorCal Trail Riders's Ride & Event calendar
  • Northern Nevada Roaming Bastards's Stuff that happens on a particular date
  • Central Washington riders's Events
  • Central Washington riders's Group ride?
  • Dualspot Riders Orange County So~CaL's Events Calendar
  • Niagara region's Club Events Calendar
  • Walker Valley Single Track Riders's I love Mondays trail ride
  • Sacramento Area Trail Riders's Events Calendar
  • Sacramento Area Trail Riders's First round of Hollister 2020
  • NC woods riders.'s Club Calendar
  • Colorado US Route 50 Rides's Club Calendar
  • Middle GA Off-Road & Trails's Club Calendar
  • OREGON Riders Club's Club Calendar
  • PNW Trail Maintenance Club's Calendar
  • North County San Diego - DirtbikesWithDad.com's 2020 Calendar
  • North GA Trail Riders's Ride Calendar
  • Virginia Supermoto's Club Calendar
  • Kentucky Trail Riders Club's Events

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Facebook


Instagram


Twitter


TikTok


YouTube


TeleGram


LinkedIn


Website


Interests

Found 312 results

  1. I have a Ktm 200exc that was jetted very nicely. The other day, after doing some of research, I decided I wanted to play around with the powervalve. Now the the bike will rev to a certain rpm and then flatline on power (wont rev out). 1/8 - 1/2 throttle feels very nice, but 3/4 - full throttle wont rev any higher and doesn't have any power. Can anyone help me fix my mistake?
  2. New spark plug, new air filter. Went for a ride and all was good. Hadn't run it in a week and a half. Now it won't start. Getting spark. The plug is dry. Is it possible I over oiled the filter and it has somehow gummed up the carb/ float? Thanks
  3. Hi I have read lots of similar topics on here and elsewhere, but couldn't find an answer that seemed to fit. I have a 2003 DRZ400-S with an old - style FCR39 slant fitted (now with Eddie mod for about a 1 second AP spray) as well as an FMF pipe, and the previous owner has attempted a 3x3 on the airbox but it is more like a rough 2x3. Air filter is standard Hiflofiltro oiled foam type. I live in the UK so altitude is more or less sea level, the air is fairly humid and the yearly average temperature is about 15C which is around 55F I believe, or average lows of 0C in winter and 30C in summer. Now, the bike doesn't exactly run poorly (now that I've just reassembled the carb after the pilot jet fell out into the bowl and the bike sounded like a misfiring Harley), power delivery feels fairly decent throughout the rev range but I know the carb runs quite rich. The best economy I've ever got can't be more than about 30 MPG. I have just done the Eddie mod and got the AP spray down from about 4-5 sec to about 1 sec so I hope this will help fueling. When I changed the spark plug the other week to a standard CR8E (There had been a CR9E in there) it was very black and filthy/sooty. Also the backside of the rear registration plate, which has only been on there about a month, is already covered in black splatters and sooty sideblast from the end can. Also, I have one of those R&D flex fuel screws attached, doesn't do anything even if you turn it all the way in. Main jet is 155 Starter jet 70 Pilot Jet 42 Sorry I don't know which needle - I took it out but stupidly didn't note down which, I know it was about 5 letters. If I cut out the airbox to the correct full 3x3 size, will this lean things out a little and have it running better? Or is it worth changing some of the jets down due to the fuel screw doing nothing? Any advice is greatly appreciated as I am a complete noob to carburetors and have hardly any idea what I'm doing! Thank you for any light you can shed on this.
  4. I picked up a 2003 Honda XR50 that would barely run on a full choke. I thoroughly cleaned the carb, I've got the fuel/air screw backed out 3/4 turn, and the bike will start cold on the first kick - but without any choke. I'm not complaining, but wondering what I've got wrong. If I use any choke, I think carb is flooding bike and it will not start. I think the clip is set in the middle position on the needle jet. Why is there no need for choke when the motor is cold?
  5. Hello Thumper Talk Community! This is my first post here, just created my account a few minutes ago. I apologize if I violate any type of forum rules or formatting, but I'm sure I'll learn as I go. To begin with: I've been riding dirtbikes since I was 8. I am currently a 19 year old University student in upstate NY, and I am riding a 2006 Honda XR650L that I bought myself when I turned 16. I've attached pictures of it (taken today, as I wrote this post) to illustrate the condition it is in, what it looks like, etc. While I have been riding for an extremely long time, and consider myself a safe and competent rider, I have a very limited mechanical knowledge of motorcycles. My dad introduced me to bikes and taught me to ride, but my riding experience over the years has been on my own, and my mechanical knowledge is self-taught and basic maintenance of my bike at best - nothing fancy whatsoever. He and I don't really speak anymore, and therefore I don't have any type of guidance or reference points when it comes to bike mechanics (or mechanics of any kind, for that matter). Nevertheless, I am very interested in modifying and improving my bike and possibly beginning a project to convert it into a café racer or scrambler-esque bike. I rarely go off-road anymore and use my XR as a daily driver, but I find the traction of off-road tires to be favorable and have never had street tires. Therefore I'm debating whether or not to keep my off-road tires (or get different ones), making the bike more of a scrambler - or to use street tires making it more of a café racer. If I'm using terminology wrong and have no idea what the f**k I'm talking about, then please always feel free to correct me. I am using Daniel Peter's custom XR650L café racer, and Ready Moto's brat/cafe racer as inspiration. I think both are beautiful bikes/rebuilds, and want something very similar as my final product. However, I think Daniel Peter's bike is tricked out in a very expensive (and unnecessary to me) way (i.e. antelope seat, c'mon dude). I also want to preserve my passenger seat and pegs, if possible. I have absolutely no idea where to start, and have no current access to welding or fabrication machines of any kind. I'm asking for a full walkthrough and as much help as you all are willing to give me. Because I'm in school, I have a very limited budget. Basically, I'm willing to do my short term modifications and enhancements, and probably put the conversion project on hold until the spring. This is particularly dependent upon the advice I get. I don't need the bike as much in the fall, because I live on my college campus, but it's nice to have around in working condition (I know the project would require pulling it all apart and not riding for a while). So if any part I need for this is expensive but necessary, I will save up for it and make it happen. If there are cheaper, reasonable alternatives to achieve the same goal, then I will do that. I'd appreciate all advice along those lines. I just replaced my battery two weeks ago, and am going to attempt to replace the brake pads (a simple job, I know, but with luck/mechanical ability like mine, it can be quite daunting!) The chain is new, the frame has been reinforced at certain points, but everything else is stock! What I Want Out of This Bike (Short Term) 1. I'd like to put the battery underneath the seat. 2. I want to clean it up, particularly the rusted parts, and possibly repaint/replace them to make sure the bike looks better. (Need guidance for this, as I'm unsure how to remove rust/how to go about repainting parts - why I posted pics, so hopefully this community can identify where my "problem areas" are on this bike). 3. Learn how to properly winterize and maintain bike. Currently I check oil regularly, fill it with premium gas, lube the chain once or a week or more, and wash it (probably not enough) and spray WD-40 on various pieces. If I'm an incompetent fool, tell me. 4. Replace footpegs, throttle, handgrips. 5. If feasible with my current bike, put in a circular (brighter) headlight instead of the stock square one. Am willing to get rid of red plastic housing, or find an alternative. What I Want Out of This Bike (Long Term) 1. A full café-racer type conversion, styled similar to what I linked above. My dream "bought brand new" bike currently is a Triumph Bonneville converted to a scrambler (provided a pic) to let y'all know what I'm interested in, aesthetically. 2. Switch out stock carb (40mm) with a 41mm Keihin FCR-MX flat slide. I've been doing lots of reading, and it looks like this will drastically improve bike performance and throttle response in many ways, not limited to AFR and starting. 3. Repaint the sucker! Sorry for the giant wall of text, I appreciate those who have read this far. Please ask any questions, give comments, critiques, advice, anything! I look forward to hearing what the TT Community has to say. Cheers! John
  6. So I have had my 2005 Honda CRF 150F for around 4 years. It always gave me a hard time when it came to idling, but now the bike will just stall from idling for 3 min. I have to constantly rev the engine just a bit to keep the bike running. It runs great but when you come to a complete stop and put it in neutral, it dies. I preform regular maintenance on the bike but have not taken the whole bike apart myself. I was wondering if it would have something to do with the fuel/air mix screws.... i dont really know which one is which, i might have turned them too much(yes im a bit confused). I have attached a picture and if someone could tell me which one should be adjusted and how many turn out they should be. ( i have adjusted the bottom screw - near exhaust pipe and the middle screw..) Is there anything I could do to see if it will fix the problem before I would need to take it in to be serviced.
  7. Trying to get some opinions on the 2017 Husqvarna tc250 jetting. I have 2.5hrs on the bike and 2 fouled plugs. Since switching from a yz250 and various 4t's, I have realized that my carburetor knowledge and setup is not what I thought it was. I'm currently at stock jetting and needle settings. If you have suggestions for jetting, air screw positions, idle screw from factory, etc. Please let me know!
  8. Today I decided to clean the carburator of my crf250r 2005. It was my second time doing it. When I opened up the top of the carburator to remove the slide, I didn't remove the throttle shaft screw and I still slid the slide out, but the control arm is now stuck. This video explain what I should have done at about 1:00. The only difference is I didn't remove the throttle shaft screw and now the control arm is sutck up and I can't slide it back down with the slide. I was still able to remove the slide. Anyone knows how to fix this? I can't acces the throttle shaft screw anymore since the control arm is stuck up.
  9. Back story. Just finished complete rebuild new head, valves, crank, bearings seals, and muffler bearing. I've checked, double checked ,and checked again timing. Exhaust valves are .011 and the intake are. .007 (I know a frog hair loose). It will fire right up when towed and it will stay running. So I am assuming ( I know) the carb probably needs some help. Can you guys point me in the right direction as I am baffled by carburetor theory and function. By the way happy Mother's Day to any that are reading brad
  10. Hey All, I have a question about needle taper and how it affects fueling? 2003 DRZ400S (E model FCR39, 3x3, E Header with fiber wrap, Stock S muffler with endcap mod, and stock S cams). JD JEtting stage 2 Kit for DRZ E model, not for the S model with FCR Current Carb Settings: -155 main -Blue needle 2nd clip from top (DRZ E taper profile) -Coast enrichener removed -everything else stock E Carb settings (including slow jets, and air jets) -idle screw = 2 1/8 turns out (and idles perfect) I ordered the EMN needle as per suggestions from other TTers My Question: I was just wondering what the EMN needle would do to my AFR graph? The taper chart doesn't make sense to me. If you see the attached image, my AFR seems to be rich at 1/4 and 4/4. I believe the EMN needle will flatten/richen out my mid range. So, to compensate I also bought a 150 main. Is this a correct assumption? PS. Is the first rich state the AP effects? I know it's too rich because it's not a punchy as a pumper should be. I'm saving up for a leak jet kit/power bowl/AP cover, but was just wonder what effects to look for when I start tuning more in the next few months as funds become available? Thanks! Note: Blue is first run with needle clip in 4th from top. Red is 5th run with needle 2nd from top to lean it out. Note:
  11. I'm looking at picking up a used DR650/KLR/690 Enduro for the lady friend and there happens to be a cheap DR650 in my area for sale right now. The potential problem? It's a model year 2000 with less than 4500 miles on it. I have a 2013 DRZ-S that has about 6000 miles on it and I feel like that's borderline neglect so a 2000 with even less has me concerned. What should I look for or be concerned about that I can check in someones driveway. Would it be worth it to trailer it somewhere and have it checked out professionally? I'm new to the area and therefore don't have a "trusted mechanic" and the nearest Suzuki dealer is ~2.25 hour drive away. Edit: I should add that I've got probably 30 hours seat time on a 2007 DR650 so I know roughly how they should feel.
  12. Recently bought a Husky WR 125 the one without restrictions. Since this is my first two-stroke I need some questions answered, a big thanks to all people that spend their own time to help me. This bike was ran 50:1 so 20ml of oil per litre of fuel. It ran ok when started but never wanted to idle it would just cut straight out not BOG but just die I winded out the mixture screw completely and it still wouldn't start the only time I actually got it to start is if I hold the throttle open about a 1/4 of a turn and it would start up on the second kick sometimes lucky on the first. Because it's road legal I spend a lot of time at traffic lights which meant I had to keep the throttle steadily open so the bike would keep running, if I let go of the throttle it would just die. I recently switched oils from Motorex to Castrol but still rocking the 50:1 ratios. After every ride I have to clean the swing arm and exhaust tip because of black spooge. Earlier today I set out and 30 seconds down the road the bike bogged out and died, it then wouldn't start at all even the 'bypass - hold open throttle 1/4' wouldn't start the thing. I then ripped out the carb cleaned it out entirely and cleared ALL jets, I took off the air filter and cleaned inside the air box it seemed a little wet/oily inside and oiled the air filter slightly as it felt dry. It has decent spark but the plug was black and wet which I then cleaned and tried to kick over baring in mind I just refuelled. It would start with a 1/4 turn throttle and then rev up then bog out and die, of course it would not start with choke and without throttle. It has nice compression but when it comes to power if I don't pull the throttle crisp/fast enough it would snag and sound a little like a 4 stroke then all of a sudden power comes, to me that just sounds someone is going to say 'that is a two-stroke for you'. Thanks best of luck!
  13. Hi guys, First post here, hopefully one of you guys can help me out. I've already checked the forums, as well as the haynes manual and carb schematic - no luck. I just rejetted the carb on my 06 DR-Z400 SM (stock mikuni bsr36 carb). After putting it back together, I found that I'd left the following part out (circled red in photo - small plastic part clipped on top of main jet. Photo taken on spare carb) Can anyone tell me what this does? The bike seems to be running fine without it. Unless this is going to cause any damage, I probably won't be pulling the carb to replace this any time soon. Cheers, Jake
  14. All righty folks, put your thinking caps on.... What size is the hole in the Mikuni 22.5 pilot jet for the BSR36? (been around the Google for a while and I can find all the other relevant dimensions for the jet but not the hold diameter) is it 22.5 thousands of a inch? 22.5 hundredths of a mm?
  15. Recently got back into riding after a 10 year hiatus from it. Found an 07 KX250F for a good price. Been learning to wrench a little bit too so it's been a lot of googling and trial/error. Noticed the bike was backfiring a lot on deceleration. Search results told me it could be the valves (got them checked and adjusted by a local shop) or exhaust leak (DID have an exhaust leak - got it fixed at the same time as the valve adjustment) or too rich/lean air/fuel mixture. Bought one of those handy, flashy thumb adjusters and installed it last night. Noticed that a cable (tube?) may not be run properly and is pushing against it. It's the one in the attached photo with mesh wrap that runs over the carb and back down below it. Would love to know if it's safe to reroute that cable around the backside of the carb and what it is at all. Thanks!
  16. To those of you who ride both during summer and winter, how often and which jets do you have to adjust? Let's say you get the jetting bang on during the summer at 30 degrees. How much of a temperature difference is enough to make you re-jet? And if there's a big change in temperature (let's say you want to ride at 0 degrees during the winter, same altitude), which jets do you change? Is it enough to just change the main jet and adjust the air screw, or do you change the main jet, pilot jet and the needle (or the position)? I want to hear from those who have personal experience, concrete examples with jet sizes would be nice. I've read many tutorials on jetting, but most of them just tell you how to adjust the jetting right now, not the things I mentioned.
  17. I have a 2001 wr250f, I am searching for a carb for it. I was wondering if anyone has put a different carb on and if so what it was.
  18. Hey guys I just picked up an 03 Baja 250, if I didn’t pay $100 for it I wouldn’t of even bothered. The good, everything works lights, blinkers, starter, brakes cool looking little bike. Needed throttle cable so I put one on it, greased the handle, ripped the carb off dipped it cleaned it up got it all back together, apparently the seat needs replaced trickles out the overflow. The needle is in the middle I was going to bend the the float tab but pulling the carb is kinda a pain. It acts like it’s on 1/4 throttle running clearly lean, within 30-40 seconds the pipe from the head to about mid is glowing red I can take the idle adjustment completely out and won’t make a difference the air/fuel is about 1 1/4 out. I was going to just put a pwk28 on it that I had for my blaster but would need rejetting surely and an manifold adapter
  19. I have a 2008 Yamaha TTR 50 and pulled the electrical connections at the top of the carb thinking they pulled out, but it appears that the one to the heater broke off. Do I need to replace this in order for the bike to run after I put the carb back together? Or can I glue this back together with Gorilla glue? I have attached several photos of the connection and the break. I am waiting on a carb rebuild kit and a new ignition switch and key, so the bike is down right now. Any help is appreciated
  20. Hi guys, Had an interesting experience on the way to work this morning. My morning commute consists of mostly highway. I was driving in 5th gear at ~75-80 (15/41 gearing) and I got a quick choke on the engine, as if I was outta gas. Nothing huge, just a slowdown for a second. Now I'm still on the highway and everything seems fine afterwards but about two minutes later, I'm starting to see a bit of traffic ahead. Naturally I let off the throttle a little, but the RPMs stay very high, despite the throttle closing. Downshift and now the RPMs are even higher (as if I was on the throttle). At this point I pulled in the clutch, let totally off the throttle. The clutch works fine as all power was taken off the drive, but those RPMs didn't go anywhere. I've had a stuck throttle cable before and this does not seem to be the problem (from a quick glance). The throttle returns to its closed position no problem, but the engine is still revving at quite high RPMs no matter what. Relatively new (<6mo old Motion Pro) throttle cable that was properly lubed. Luckily I was able to get to work just fine, but upon turning everything off and restarting, same problem. Throttle seems to be stuck open and I have no idea what direction to go in. When the bike is off and I pull the throttle then release, I'm pretty sure I can hear the click of it closing completely, so I'm dumbfounded on this one. Apologies in advance because I'm at work and only have absolute basic tools on me, and can't get to the carb right now (also time restricted). FWIW, I can rev the bike higher than where it is stuck, but it will not go below a certain point. Like I said, throttle cable seems to return just fine, but it is definitely stuck open (maybe just the port on the throttle or something? maybe one of the springs? maybe jetting needle is fooked?) Thanks in advance, looks like I'm out of action for at least the next couple days
  21. Hi I recently bought a KTM 250sx 2005 and my bike leaks a lot of oil. I made a topic recently asking how to fix this and got amazing answers from everyone! And I asked this question on the other topic, yet to be answered, but I felt it was a different question wholly due to the paragraph it took to ask the question. And if it is answered there, this one can be deleted, but I wanted to know how do I tune the carburetor to run 50:1. It currently runs 32:1 and I believe the carb is tuned for that. I don't know jet specs but I will try to find out. I know you can adjust the jets via the air/fuel screw... I was told to turn it all the way lean and run the fuel, and I understand to adjust accordingly. But I just want to know what I must do to know if I should turn it richer or leaner based on what the bike does. What are the signs to tell to tune richer once I turn it all the way lean? And is there only one screw I must turn? or are there many? someone please explain all of this.
  22. I have a 2004 Yamaha WR250F that the previous owner modified and the bike doesn’t run the way it should. It has an FMF muffler with an aftermarket pipe coming from the engine. There’s no other silencers or restrictions in the exhaust. When I got the bike, it was backfiring every time I let off the throttle no matter what speed I was doing. When the previous owner first started the bike, part of the exhaust pipe was cherry red while he was warming it up by giving it more throttle. I took the carburetor apart and found out that I have a 178 main jet, 40 pilot jet, and 72 leak jet. The needle clip was in the middle in the 4th position. I adjusted the fuel screw back to the 1.5 turns out position from the 3.5 turns out position the previous owner had it set at. I changed out the pilot jet to a 45 and the bike no longer backfires while I ride it but it does die when I leave it to idle. Sometimes it dies immediately after letting off the throttle and other times it will idle for a minute or two before dying. Now before this gets too confusing, I ran the bike with the fuel screw at 1.5 turns out and 3.5 turns out after changing the pilot jet. At 1.5 turns out, the bike would only run when choked and would die when idling. At 3.5 turns out, the bike will run with the choke off but will still die when idling. If anyone has any suggestions to try, please let me know.
  23. Hi all, I have a completely stock 2005 Suzuki drz110 (same thing as a klx110) and it is running way to rich. It wont idle at all but will hang before it dies. It puffs a little bit of black smoke too. It always starts 1st kick and has decent power. Jets are stock at 35 pilot and 80 main. playing with the idle and fuel screws don`t do anything. Spark plug is black but it doesn't foul plugs. checked all around engine for air leaks with carb and choke cleaner and have found none. Air filter is clean and valves were just adjusted. Im out of things to try. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Luke
  24. All, I'm new to the forum but I've been reading quite a bit. I've got a new to me Suzuki DRZ400e with a no start problem. I've never had it running so I have no baseline for what normal is for this particular bike but it looks great. It will turn over but not fire. I do have a good solid spark and I recently rebuilt the carb. I wouldn't be surprised at all if I screwed up during the carb rebuild and that's the source of my issues, however I do have a few questions. For the carb rebuild, I installed all stock jets with all stock settings and I felt pretty good about the rebuilt. Not my first carb rebuild but certainly the most complicated. Through all my attempts to start the bike, the spark plug has remained dry. I tried starting fluid tonight and all it did was pop and backfire out of the carb and start a small blue fire. It did not come close to starting. I also checked my valve clearances and I'm getting some out of spec readings. I was expecting between .10mm-.20mm on the intake and between .20-.30mm on exhaust. What I found was my exhaust valves were in spec but I was getting a max of .457 and .406 on the intake clearances. 1) First question - the pop and backfire out the carb. Is that indicative of bad timing, bad valves, a stuck valve....or what? 2) Regarding the Keihin FCR 39 carb -The airbox and filter are removed and I'm looking down the air intake of the carb. When I rotate the throttle, I don't see any squirt of fuel at all when I attempt to start it. Should I be able to see a mist of fuel spray down the carb throat when I turn the throttle? 3) Regarding valve clearances, could a max of .457 and .406 on the intake clearances cause a no start condition and could it cause the pop and backfire? 4) Even with those valve clearance specs should the bike have started if the carb was ok? 5) Lastly, my cam sprockets are off a bit. I read they were each supposed to be "straight up" but I don't know how specific that should be. On the left sprocket, the number 3 is more at the 11 o'clock than straight up and down. The right sprocket with the number 2 is perfectly centered straight up. In looking at the lobes, I read they should be at 10 and 2. The exhaust is at 10 but the intake seems to be at 3. Seems consistent with the sprocket being slightly counter clockwise. Help please!
  25. After doing some adjusting to my float, my 2 stroke has started running a lot better than before but started acting a little bit funny. First, It's a little bit of a pain to start. Then, The idle feels low and it dies if not given gas. Also, if I'm on the clutch while coasting it tends to die. Lastly, bottom and mid power feel pretty good, but the top end power feels weak. Whenever I stop it pours a little gas out of the vent hoses. Is my problem still my float? If so, how do I adjust to fix this?
×
×
  • Create New...