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Found 260 results

  1. I'm looking at picking up a used DR650/KLR/690 Enduro for the lady friend and there happens to be a cheap DR650 in my area for sale right now. The potential problem? It's a model year 2000 with less than 4500 miles on it. I have a 2013 DRZ-S that has about 6000 miles on it and I feel like that's borderline neglect so a 2000 with even less has me concerned. What should I look for or be concerned about that I can check in someones driveway. Would it be worth it to trailer it somewhere and have it checked out professionally? I'm new to the area and therefore don't have a "trusted mechanic" and the nearest Suzuki dealer is ~2.25 hour drive away. Edit: I should add that I've got probably 30 hours seat time on a 2007 DR650 so I know roughly how they should feel.
  2. Hey All, I have a question about needle taper and how it affects fueling? 2003 DRZ400S (E model FCR39, 3x3, E Header with fiber wrap, Stock S muffler with endcap mod, and stock S cams). JD JEtting stage 2 Kit for DRZ E model, not for the S model with FCR Current Carb Settings: -155 main -Blue needle 2nd clip from top (DRZ E taper profile) -Coast enrichener removed -everything else stock E Carb settings (including slow jets, and air jets) -idle screw = 2 1/8 turns out (and idles perfect) I ordered the EMN needle as per suggestions from other TTers My Question: I was just wondering what the EMN needle would do to my AFR graph? The taper chart doesn't make sense to me. If you see the attached image, my AFR seems to be rich at 1/4 and 4/4. I believe the EMN needle will flatten/richen out my mid range. So, to compensate I also bought a 150 main. Is this a correct assumption? PS. Is the first rich state the AP effects? I know it's too rich because it's not a punchy as a pumper should be. I'm saving up for a leak jet kit/power bowl/AP cover, but was just wonder what effects to look for when I start tuning more in the next few months as funds become available? Thanks! Note: Blue is first run with needle clip in 4th from top. Red is 5th run with needle 2nd from top to lean it out. Note:
  3. Recently bought a Husky WR 125 the one without restrictions. Since this is my first two-stroke I need some questions answered, a big thanks to all people that spend their own time to help me. This bike was ran 50:1 so 20ml of oil per litre of fuel. It ran ok when started but never wanted to idle it would just cut straight out not BOG but just die I winded out the mixture screw completely and it still wouldn't start the only time I actually got it to start is if I hold the throttle open about a 1/4 of a turn and it would start up on the second kick sometimes lucky on the first. Because it's road legal I spend a lot of time at traffic lights which meant I had to keep the throttle steadily open so the bike would keep running, if I let go of the throttle it would just die. I recently switched oils from Motorex to Castrol but still rocking the 50:1 ratios. After every ride I have to clean the swing arm and exhaust tip because of black spooge. Earlier today I set out and 30 seconds down the road the bike bogged out and died, it then wouldn't start at all even the 'bypass - hold open throttle 1/4' wouldn't start the thing. I then ripped out the carb cleaned it out entirely and cleared ALL jets, I took off the air filter and cleaned inside the air box it seemed a little wet/oily inside and oiled the air filter slightly as it felt dry. It has decent spark but the plug was black and wet which I then cleaned and tried to kick over baring in mind I just refuelled. It would start with a 1/4 turn throttle and then rev up then bog out and die, of course it would not start with choke and without throttle. It has nice compression but when it comes to power if I don't pull the throttle crisp/fast enough it would snag and sound a little like a 4 stroke then all of a sudden power comes, to me that just sounds someone is going to say 'that is a two-stroke for you'. Thanks best of luck!
  4. I have a 2006 yz250. It was fully rebuilt top to bottom last winter before racing started rode all year and it was fine the problem I am having after winter start up is starts no problem, run decent, when I turn the throttle smoke and. Lack oil spray out of the silencer like if I put a glove on there's a nice layer of oil also the part of the carb that comes out of the tps and sits on the throttle slide. To me seems loose as in I can lift it to a point and it doesn't spring back. Is it suppose to stay tight to the top of the slide it feels like it doesn't any force down till about 3/4 throttle when I hold it up with my finger also when I lean my bike over the idle picks up a lot
  5. Need some pro tips on a main jet question for my 1991 Kx 125
  6. Hello Thumper Talk Community! This is my first post here, just created my account a few minutes ago. I apologize if I violate any type of forum rules or formatting, but I'm sure I'll learn as I go. To begin with: I've been riding dirtbikes since I was 8. I am currently a 19 year old University student in upstate NY, and I am riding a 2006 Honda XR650L that I bought myself when I turned 16. I've attached pictures of it (taken today, as I wrote this post) to illustrate the condition it is in, what it looks like, etc. While I have been riding for an extremely long time, and consider myself a safe and competent rider, I have a very limited mechanical knowledge of motorcycles. My dad introduced me to bikes and taught me to ride, but my riding experience over the years has been on my own, and my mechanical knowledge is self-taught and basic maintenance of my bike at best - nothing fancy whatsoever. He and I don't really speak anymore, and therefore I don't have any type of guidance or reference points when it comes to bike mechanics (or mechanics of any kind, for that matter). Nevertheless, I am very interested in modifying and improving my bike and possibly beginning a project to convert it into a café racer or scrambler-esque bike. I rarely go off-road anymore and use my XR as a daily driver, but I find the traction of off-road tires to be favorable and have never had street tires. Therefore I'm debating whether or not to keep my off-road tires (or get different ones), making the bike more of a scrambler - or to use street tires making it more of a café racer. If I'm using terminology wrong and have no idea what the f**k I'm talking about, then please always feel free to correct me. I am using Daniel Peter's custom XR650L café racer, and Ready Moto's brat/cafe racer as inspiration. I think both are beautiful bikes/rebuilds, and want something very similar as my final product. However, I think Daniel Peter's bike is tricked out in a very expensive (and unnecessary to me) way (i.e. antelope seat, c'mon dude). I also want to preserve my passenger seat and pegs, if possible. I have absolutely no idea where to start, and have no current access to welding or fabrication machines of any kind. I'm asking for a full walkthrough and as much help as you all are willing to give me. Because I'm in school, I have a very limited budget. Basically, I'm willing to do my short term modifications and enhancements, and probably put the conversion project on hold until the spring. This is particularly dependent upon the advice I get. I don't need the bike as much in the fall, because I live on my college campus, but it's nice to have around in working condition (I know the project would require pulling it all apart and not riding for a while). So if any part I need for this is expensive but necessary, I will save up for it and make it happen. If there are cheaper, reasonable alternatives to achieve the same goal, then I will do that. I'd appreciate all advice along those lines. I just replaced my battery two weeks ago, and am going to attempt to replace the brake pads (a simple job, I know, but with luck/mechanical ability like mine, it can be quite daunting!) The chain is new, the frame has been reinforced at certain points, but everything else is stock! What I Want Out of This Bike (Short Term) 1. I'd like to put the battery underneath the seat. 2. I want to clean it up, particularly the rusted parts, and possibly repaint/replace them to make sure the bike looks better. (Need guidance for this, as I'm unsure how to remove rust/how to go about repainting parts - why I posted pics, so hopefully this community can identify where my "problem areas" are on this bike). 3. Learn how to properly winterize and maintain bike. Currently I check oil regularly, fill it with premium gas, lube the chain once or a week or more, and wash it (probably not enough) and spray WD-40 on various pieces. If I'm an incompetent fool, tell me. 4. Replace footpegs, throttle, handgrips. 5. If feasible with my current bike, put in a circular (brighter) headlight instead of the stock square one. Am willing to get rid of red plastic housing, or find an alternative. What I Want Out of This Bike (Long Term) 1. A full café-racer type conversion, styled similar to what I linked above. My dream "bought brand new" bike currently is a Triumph Bonneville converted to a scrambler (provided a pic) to let y'all know what I'm interested in, aesthetically. 2. Switch out stock carb (40mm) with a 41mm Keihin FCR-MX flat slide. I've been doing lots of reading, and it looks like this will drastically improve bike performance and throttle response in many ways, not limited to AFR and starting. 3. Repaint the sucker! Sorry for the giant wall of text, I appreciate those who have read this far. Please ask any questions, give comments, critiques, advice, anything! I look forward to hearing what the TT Community has to say. Cheers! John
  7. Hi all, I have a completely stock 2005 Suzuki drz110 (same thing as a klx110) and it is running way to rich. It wont idle at all but will hang before it dies. It puffs a little bit of black smoke too. It always starts 1st kick and has decent power. Jets are stock at 35 pilot and 80 main. playing with the idle and fuel screws don`t do anything. Spark plug is black but it doesn't foul plugs. checked all around engine for air leaks with carb and choke cleaner and have found none. Air filter is clean and valves were just adjusted. Im out of things to try. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Luke
  8. I picked up a 2003 Honda XR50 that would barely run on a full choke. I thoroughly cleaned the carb, I've got the fuel/air screw backed out 3/4 turn, and the bike will start cold on the first kick - but without any choke. I'm not complaining, but wondering what I've got wrong. If I use any choke, I think carb is flooding bike and it will not start. I think the clip is set in the middle position on the needle jet. Why is there no need for choke when the motor is cold?
  9. So I have had my 2005 Honda CRF 150F for around 4 years. It always gave me a hard time when it came to idling, but now the bike will just stall from idling for 3 min. I have to constantly rev the engine just a bit to keep the bike running. It runs great but when you come to a complete stop and put it in neutral, it dies. I preform regular maintenance on the bike but have not taken the whole bike apart myself. I was wondering if it would have something to do with the fuel/air mix screws.... i dont really know which one is which, i might have turned them too much(yes im a bit confused). I have attached a picture and if someone could tell me which one should be adjusted and how many turn out they should be. ( i have adjusted the bottom screw - near exhaust pipe and the middle screw..) Is there anything I could do to see if it will fix the problem before I would need to take it in to be serviced.
  10. Trying to get some opinions on the 2017 Husqvarna tc250 jetting. I have 2.5hrs on the bike and 2 fouled plugs. Since switching from a yz250 and various 4t's, I have realized that my carburetor knowledge and setup is not what I thought it was. I'm currently at stock jetting and needle settings. If you have suggestions for jetting, air screw positions, idle screw from factory, etc. Please let me know!
  11. Back story. Just finished complete rebuild new head, valves, crank, bearings seals, and muffler bearing. I've checked, double checked ,and checked again timing. Exhaust valves are .011 and the intake are. .007 (I know a frog hair loose). It will fire right up when towed and it will stay running. So I am assuming ( I know) the carb probably needs some help. Can you guys point me in the right direction as I am baffled by carburetor theory and function. By the way happy Mother's Day to any that are reading brad
  12. Today I decided to clean the carburator of my crf250r 2005. It was my second time doing it. When I opened up the top of the carburator to remove the slide, I didn't remove the throttle shaft screw and I still slid the slide out, but the control arm is now stuck. This video explain what I should have done at about 1:00. The only difference is I didn't remove the throttle shaft screw and now the control arm is sutck up and I can't slide it back down with the slide. I was still able to remove the slide. Anyone knows how to fix this? I can't acces the throttle shaft screw anymore since the control arm is stuck up.
  13. My sons Rm85 is pouring out petrol all of a sudden. He thinks it's something to do with the jet. I know nothing about bikes and he is only 13 and isn't experienced enough to be taking it apart but I was just wondering if anyone could advise me what I should do?. Also I've noticed he never puts coolant in the water tank and just wanted to know if this is important and would have an effect on its performace? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks ?
  14. Basically this is causing my carb to overflow as it gets stuck on this brown pin, how and what do I need to do to fix this, many thanks
  15. Appologies for the book but bare with me here, in need of some input... Ok, so i bought a wr250f it wasnt street legal i made it legal and got plated through south dakota. I did a baja designs enduro lighting harness kit with the stator modification. Put an fmf slip on exhaust on it and jetted the carb. I forget what jets i used and i put an air fuel mixture screw in it. Problem1.After my baja kit i put on it wouldnt start. Turned out that the solenoid under the seat was loose or something i pushed down on it when it was clicking and it started running again. Problem 2.Went riding, it ran great on the trails. Went riding for a day or 2 on the street, after a while the electric start stopped working and it became a bitch to kick over. It started making the same click noise like when the battery is dead under the seat. Idk whats up with that. Then on the street i was riding and the bike stopped having power in the throttle i would pin it full throttle and it wouldnt take off like it usuallt does. I pulled over, let it sit for 5min and kicked it over again and the power i had came back in the throttle. It did that 2 more times durring the ride and i went home. Do you think this is a computer issue, a carb issue, fuel air ratio issue. Im going to do an airbox mod on it thiss weekend maybe thatll help. Problem3. I ordered some rims and stuff from warp9 so i can sumo it out and i was curious on what size sprocket would make my gears longer and better so im not maxing my rpms out at 40mph. I can do a solid 65mph on the bike but thats like pushing it and im in 5th gear as soon as i hit like 30mph, id love 6gears but im trying to avoid regearing the bike and using a smaller sprocket in the rear and maybe a tooth or 2 bigger in the front i guess, i still wanna be able to pull wheelies. I feel like im gonna blow the motor if i leave it alone and just ride street with it. Mind you this was the wr250f=for off road use only. not the wr250r=street legal from factory, i live in nj. I should have just got the street legal one or a supermoto already done but i wanted to build one and make it custom for me. I already put alot of money in to it and dont even own it 100% yet so im not trying to get rid of it anytime soon. Im not even done with it yet.
  16. So I just finished installing a big bore kit 2 rides ago (amazing btw!!!) and I have been working on getting the carb settings dialed in. So, I was checking the ap squirt, (first time) and I intended to adjust it to the point it would hit the slider and then back it off - trying to get the squirt to just clear the slider as it goes up. Well I ran out of adjustment before I could get it there. I have the o-ring thing done already, but is there any way to get it to squirt sooner? maybe a longer rod? The one that goes between the throttle cable housing and the AP diaphragm? or a different diaphragm? I am trying to minimize the bog that is much worse since the BB kit install, or maybe just more noticeable since I am spending more time @ <1/2 throttle. FYI, my leak is a 70 right now. Wes
  17. 2008 KLX450, FMF power bomb header, FMF Powercore 4 muffler, Desmogged, Air box top off 1000'-3000' altitude. 40 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Humid during summer I ordered the KX NCVR needle. What clip position should I put it to? Had a 155 Main jet, seems way too lean. Should I go 165 or 170? Have a 42 and a 45 pilot, not sure which to use with NCVR needle. What leak jet should I run for best throttle response/least bog? Currently have size 50 leak jet, I'm guessing it's stock as it has the Keihin star symbol next to the number. Float is at manual recommended measurement. Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks
  18. So when rebuilding my carb on my 99 DR350SE I realized I have a problem. The metal tubing that spans top to bottom on the right hand side of the carb is broken at the top threaded connection. First of all, what does this do? I assume its part of the pilot circuit but cant really find a good schematic or free service manual. Secondly, does anyone know where I can source this part? It's not in any of the rebuild kits, nor is available through BikeBandit or the likes. Any ideas? I have attached a picture that shows the part in question. Thanks!
  19. Hey guys new to the forum I just bought a new pitbike it's a gio 125cc when I bought it the bike wouldn't run without the choke fully on so my guess was the pilot jet just needed to be cleaned out and some fresh fuel should do the trick.... not the case after tearing the carb apart what felt like 100x and not much change in the idle I decided to go order a new carb. I put the new carb on which fit great minus the throttle cable being to long, the bike started right up and with some tuning it ran great with the choke off. I loaded the bike up in my truck to go rip it at a friend's place, I stopped by another buddy's place on the way to show him the new bike, I started it up did a burnout in the bed of my truck shut it off then headed to my friends house to go rip we off loaded the bike went to start it and it wouldn't run without the choke even after being warmed up. So I grabbed by old carb cleaned out the jets again with a torch and compressed air and slapped it back on, it runs way better then in the first place it will start with the choke or some throttle and will continue to run until it's without throttle for more then 5 seconds. I'm at a loss I have no idea what could be causing this any help is welcome! But please read the whole post I know it's long but I wanted to go over the whole situation so it's narrows things down hopefully
  20. Recently got back into riding after a 10 year hiatus from it. Found an 07 KX250F for a good price. Been learning to wrench a little bit too so it's been a lot of googling and trial/error. Noticed the bike was backfiring a lot on deceleration. Search results told me it could be the valves (got them checked and adjusted by a local shop) or exhaust leak (DID have an exhaust leak - got it fixed at the same time as the valve adjustment) or too rich/lean air/fuel mixture. Bought one of those handy, flashy thumb adjusters and installed it last night. Noticed that a cable (tube?) may not be run properly and is pushing against it. It's the one in the attached photo with mesh wrap that runs over the carb and back down below it. Would love to know if it's safe to reroute that cable around the backside of the carb and what it is at all. Thanks!
  21. New spark plug, new air filter. Went for a ride and all was good. Hadn't run it in a week and a half. Now it won't start. Getting spark. The plug is dry. Is it possible I over oiled the filter and it has somehow gummed up the carb/ float? Thanks
  22. To those of you who ride both during summer and winter, how often and which jets do you have to adjust? Let's say you get the jetting bang on during the summer at 30 degrees. How much of a temperature difference is enough to make you re-jet? And if there's a big change in temperature (let's say you want to ride at 0 degrees during the winter, same altitude), which jets do you change? Is it enough to just change the main jet and adjust the air screw, or do you change the main jet, pilot jet and the needle (or the position)? I want to hear from those who have personal experience, concrete examples with jet sizes would be nice. I've read many tutorials on jetting, but most of them just tell you how to adjust the jetting right now, not the things I mentioned.
  23. After doing some adjusting to my float, my 2 stroke has started running a lot better than before but started acting a little bit funny. First, It's a little bit of a pain to start. Then, The idle feels low and it dies if not given gas. Also, if I'm on the clutch while coasting it tends to die. Lastly, bottom and mid power feel pretty good, but the top end power feels weak. Whenever I stop it pours a little gas out of the vent hoses. Is my problem still my float? If so, how do I adjust to fix this?
  24. Hi guys, First post here, hopefully one of you guys can help me out. I've already checked the forums, as well as the haynes manual and carb schematic - no luck. I just rejetted the carb on my 06 DR-Z400 SM (stock mikuni bsr36 carb). After putting it back together, I found that I'd left the following part out (circled red in photo - small plastic part clipped on top of main jet. Photo taken on spare carb) Can anyone tell me what this does? The bike seems to be running fine without it. Unless this is going to cause any damage, I probably won't be pulling the carb to replace this any time soon. Cheers, Jake
  25. All, I'm new to the forum but I've been reading quite a bit. I've got a new to me Suzuki DRZ400e with a no start problem. I've never had it running so I have no baseline for what normal is for this particular bike but it looks great. It will turn over but not fire. I do have a good solid spark and I recently rebuilt the carb. I wouldn't be surprised at all if I screwed up during the carb rebuild and that's the source of my issues, however I do have a few questions. For the carb rebuild, I installed all stock jets with all stock settings and I felt pretty good about the rebuilt. Not my first carb rebuild but certainly the most complicated. Through all my attempts to start the bike, the spark plug has remained dry. I tried starting fluid tonight and all it did was pop and backfire out of the carb and start a small blue fire. It did not come close to starting. I also checked my valve clearances and I'm getting some out of spec readings. I was expecting between .10mm-.20mm on the intake and between .20-.30mm on exhaust. What I found was my exhaust valves were in spec but I was getting a max of .457 and .406 on the intake clearances. 1) First question - the pop and backfire out the carb. Is that indicative of bad timing, bad valves, a stuck valve....or what? 2) Regarding the Keihin FCR 39 carb -The airbox and filter are removed and I'm looking down the air intake of the carb. When I rotate the throttle, I don't see any squirt of fuel at all when I attempt to start it. Should I be able to see a mist of fuel spray down the carb throat when I turn the throttle? 3) Regarding valve clearances, could a max of .457 and .406 on the intake clearances cause a no start condition and could it cause the pop and backfire? 4) Even with those valve clearance specs should the bike have started if the carb was ok? 5) Lastly, my cam sprockets are off a bit. I read they were each supposed to be "straight up" but I don't know how specific that should be. On the left sprocket, the number 3 is more at the 11 o'clock than straight up and down. The right sprocket with the number 2 is perfectly centered straight up. In looking at the lobes, I read they should be at 10 and 2. The exhaust is at 10 but the intake seems to be at 3. Seems consistent with the sprocket being slightly counter clockwise. Help please!
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