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Found 14 results

  1. Hey everyone! I'm new here and just picked up my first dirt bike about a month ago. 1991 Suzuki DR350M. I've been dying to get on the trails here and enjoy the season before the snow comes, but i've been having a heck of a time getting the thing to run consistently. When i first got it it ran ok, it was a beast to kick start but when it got running it stayed running. Ran it around town for a few hours and then parked it. tried to start it up later and it wouldn't go. So I took the opportunity to do all the usual maintenance on it: Oil change, spark plug, repack exhaust, clean and oil air filter, valve clearances, and gave everything a good clean. Got it running again but broke the pumper carb lever so I waited on that for a little bit and now i'm trying to get it to run again. After all that work and pulling the plug i found that the bike was running lean. spark plug came back almost completely white. Oddly enough, it seems that the bike perfers to start without the coke applied even when dead cold. I don't want to damage the bike, and therefore I need to tune the carb. The bike is mostly stock, however the air filter and exhaust have been changed. Here are all the details on the current set up of the fuel/air system Exhaust: Supertrapp Exhaust (i think it has 5 plates on it) K & N airfilter Pilot Jet: 35 and Main: 122.5 Pilot screw is turned out 2 turns (stock of this bike is (Pilot 37.5, main 127.5 and 1 1/8 turn). Here are my questions now that i've covered all of that: I live in Boulder, CO at elevation ~5,000'. Most of where i want to ride is between 7,000' and 10,000'. Does anyone know a good starting point for tuning to that elevation? I realize that carb work is an art and a pain, every bike is different and unique, but i'm still hoping i can find some starting spot. My preference would be have it tuned more for around 7,000' as long as it would still run ok at 5,000' without going too lean. I've heard to reduce the main jet from stock by 2% (which would put me at 125. How would the aftermarket exhaust and air filter affect this? On my other bike I jumped up two pilot jet sizes from stock (which would put it at 42.5). Any idea of this is the right way to go with this bike as well?
  2. OK here goes... Picked up an 04 200 EXC few months back, needed some work to say the least, wont go into detail of all the things i've fixed on the bike just the current and most present issue I cant seem to fix... it is smoking IE blue smoke/lots of splooge to the point that at the end of a few hour's ride, it's out the tail pipe, running down the back and dripping onto the swing arm/rear break caliper and blue smoking quite a bit. When I first got it, it smoked more and smelled like shit. So first things first went to the carb, I live on the Oregon coast (elevation/temp reference) it's old dirty/stained but inside looks good, came with jetting pilot-45, main-178 needle: no idea what brand guessing stock in the 3rd clip, adjusted the float height due to it leaking gas when bike was upright no tilt with the gas on, Bought JD jet kit and running pilot-45, Main-185 and Needle is blue 3rd clip (JD's recommend specs for my bike @ my attitude). I have also replaced my Inner crankcase seal twice (First time I thought I messed up the O-ring so redid to make sure). I've rebuilt the top end/new piston (same thing) cleaned the PV, NOTE HERE that the PV has some issues, it seems to work fine but the screw that goes on top of the cylinder, down into the PV/flap would not come out preventing me from removing the flap to clean it, however it move's/ function's correctly, and has minimum clearance on both sides. One of the PV cover bolts that also works at the exhaust spring holder, was over torqued at some point (impact driver prob), or a result in a hard impact, the hole the bolt goes into is flailed/jared open a bit, not bad, not in the way of any function/ PV Gearing/hinge, it is not needed for that area to be air tight as their is also a breather that goes out of the PV so will not result in an "air leak" or loss in Top end PSI.... anyway... it's still smoking.... quite a bit.. now the bike itself rides fine I feel, the carb does puke gas when tilted over slightly/ hard to start (kick start) after flooded (like all bikes tho) I don't have any stalling/low idle issues outside of user error on clutch control. Honestly outside of it smoking as much as it does I would think nothing is wrong with it.. I have also tried raising the needle Clip to 2nd clip and it changed nothing at all, not even feel of the bike/response and have a new Spark plug I have yet to put on the bike. I have also "compromised" the crankcase Gasket (new one in the mail) while I was putting the Crankcase back on but that should do nothing with the exhaust just a little gear oil leak not relevant but throwing it out there. So I am at a loss... I've been toying with the idea of getting a Lectron carb... However... would hate to drop $400~$500 and the issue still persist, if it's a jetting/carb/float issue that would fix it and improve MPH/fuel consumption Or something with the PV? but I don't see the PV causing that much smoke/sploogee... I've ridden the bike normally/hard and nothing's happened but I don't want to keep pushing it and possibly clip the bike. Any ideas? "Oh help me 2 stroke community you're my only hope"
  3. My 06 yz 125 runs great at idle and riding at low rpm however after about a lap around a track it dies almost like if you turned the gas off. this only happens when you ride the bike in the powerband for 2+ minutes. before it decides to die the bike has great power and is very responsive I just did a top end maybe an 2 hours ago and rebuilt the carb along with new reeds. does anyone have any ideas on what the problem might be. I've searched google and cant seem to find anyone whos having this problem.
  4. I have just bought a new FMF Gnarly for my 2012 KTM 200 XC-W, it works great but i want to use it to its full potential to get my moneys worth. So i need some advice on jetting my carb for the Gnarly pipe. Any ideas on jetting for my bike? Thanks
  5. I've been having some issues with with my 2000 yz125, first problem i need a new clutch basket and plates and was wondering what years share the same style of plates and basket. Next, i had the bike out a few times and its been ridden hard going through gears and high rpms but its running really rich. Its blowing oil out the tailpipe all over the back tire and swingarm. I mix the fuel at 32:1 and am not sure what the problem is?
  6. Hey guys I hate to be the kind of person who makes these kind of posts but I’m lost and need some help. I picked up an 03 250 the other day and it ran pretty well. Maybe a little bog at 3/4th throttle, but nothing major. Went out today to take it on it’s first ride, and the bike would not run. Would kick over in about 3 kicks with choke on, idle for a second, then die. Same with if you gave it throttle, it would die. Would also give a a backfire it seemed like when trying to kick every once and awhile. The weird thing is I could bump start the bike and ride it around somewhat, if it did not let off the throttle. When it would run like this, it almost seemed to backfire too, or pop a lot. Got home, pulled the plug, appeared to be fouled, sprayed with some break clean and gave it a good clean off, put back in the bike, and bike performed the same way. Compression is good, reeds are good, air filter is clean. There is a 50 pilot jet and I’m unsure of the main as there’s no number. I threw in a 48 pilot to see if there was a change, but doesn’t appear like it (starts up but dies shortly after) The bike has vforce, pro circuit pipe, and a pro circuit spark arrestor silencer. I’m about 1500 ft above sea level and the pervious owner said he mixes bike at 32:1 on 100 octane. Any help is much appreciated please!
  7. Hey i just put in a Jd jet kit and used the blue needle in the middle position with the 25 and 155 jets. I just need to adjust the fuel air mixture with the screw. I just don't know how to reach it and was wondering what people use to manipulate it. I obv. don't want to have to pull the whole carb out if I can help it. Thanks. Edit: The bike is a 2008 drz400sm with a stock carb that I just rejected. The bike start but the throttle is sticking. As in I can turn the throttle and let it go, and it will stay there. I still need to adjust the fuel screw but don't want to take the carb out. Is there a tool that can reach up and adjust the fuel screw at a 90 degree angle?
  8. Ok so I’m doing carb work on a 2007 Kawasaki brute force 750 and am wondering where the pilot screw is
  9. My 2001 cr250r won’t idle more than 6-7 seconds after it is warmed up. I tried messing with the air screw and idle screw and I could not get it to idle. The bike is also running rich since I fouled 3 plugs within a short amount of time and they were black in color. I looked at the pilot and main jet and both were the stock size. Getting the airscrew in the correct place may stop it from fouling. My question is would dropping the main jet a size help in idling? Thanks for the help
  10. Today I was riding my CR85R when I noticed it’s running weird. It seemed like i was hitting the rev limiter when I should have been in the meat of the power. So I put in neutral and slowly reved it up while looking around the bike. It smoked a little more then it usually does before it died. I tried kicking it over a few times but it wouldn’t start. So I pulled the plug that was pretty fouled up. Then took of the head to look in the cylinder and saw the normal cross hatching. I checked the air filter but it was fine. Any thoughts I want to have it fixed by Friday for one last ride with my bud before winter comes. Thanks ps I do have spark.
  11. EDIT: I just took the return cable off to make sure that wasnt sticking, it was still hanging for a while. So it is not the cables, the seal on the front boot seems good, the jetting is the same as it was when it stopped running. What could it be??? ORIGINAL: Hey y'all, so I took apart my z and painted the frame. Its all painted, put back together and looks great, but now it is idleing very weird. Jetting is same as when it was taken apart, I lubed the cables which are also pretty new as well. It is idling really low according to the trail tech, but after getting throttle it hangs when let off, for a long time. When the idle returns to "normal" it will die, Unless given more throttle. I dont know what this could be. I changed the plug to a "higher quality" plug, gap checked out. What should my first steps be? I did try adjusting the cables to make sure. Also if anyone knows where to get a white drz400E rear fender or plastic kit, please lmk. Thanks
  12. I have just bought a new FMF Gnarly for my 2012 KTM 200 XC-W, it works great but i want to use it to its full potential to get my moneys worth. So i need some advice on jetting my carb for the Gnarly pipe. Any ideas on jetting for my bike? Thanks
  13. I have a 2008 crf150rb. It has a problem where when it's stilling at idle it will rev up a little then go back to idle. Sometimes after 10 seconds or a minute. I am currently cleaning the carb to see if that helps. But i am wondering if anyone else has that problem and what they did to fix it. Or is it supposed to do that?
  14. Hi, today I finally got the old Xr 100 out for a nostalgic ride. But when I did I noticed it was acting strange. When I would go up hill or use more then half throttle the bike would bog out. I don't know if this is a jetting problem, airbox or spark. I was running some 2 stroke gas that I mixed wrong in it, but it was like 32 ounces of the 2 stroke gas to one gallon of normal gas. Thanks for the help!
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