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Found 17 results

  1. I just bought a new carburetor for my ttr 125 because when trying to remove the seat from the old carb i damaged the carb beyond repair. Anyway I set up the new carb and when I start it up it revs up and holds at high rpms. When I take the carb off the throttle slide still has about a centimeter or more that it can go down. I think it’s letting to much gas in. I tried firing it up and adjusting the gas and air screw but it doesn’t change the idle at all. Anyone have an answer?
  2. Hello Reader, I've been struggling with this issue for a year on 2005 Suzuki DRZ 400s. Configuration: Mikuni BSR36 carburetor (rebuilt 4 months back), brand new top end, new stator coil & battery Modifications: 3X3 air box mod, yoshimura slip on rear exhaust, 4 gallon fuel tank with manual petcock, added kickstart & TKC80 tyres Problem: I took my bike to hilly trails near the Big Bear national park in California in Dec'20. The point where we parked our trucks and took the bikes out was ~3.5K feet above sea level. My bike was starting fine with just button start, and also running fine around the parking area. When we started ascending the trail, which would be another ~400 feet the bike started to struggle to keep alive and whenever i felt it go sluggish i'd give more throttle. This helped and the bike would ascend, but my confidence was getting eroded. Then at a point where there were rocks and i had to rev the bike to climb them the bike couldn't climb over, and as my grip loosened on throttle the engine died. I bump started the bike by using the decline, and turned around to start ascending. After a mile we reached a plateau and here i stopped and pressed the kill switch, to test the kick start reliability. Ok, so i pulled out the choke, adjusted the idling switch (but couldn't twist the fuel screw) and ended up kicking 15-20 times before it finally started. Now i just turned back to the parking area since i couldn't risk getting stuck in the labyrinths of criss cross off-road trails ahead. When i reach the parking area, the bikes back to perfect performance. I can button start it and ride it around the same area with no issues. What gives? I checked with my fellow rides, some suggested float valve, some said something else but i haven't really take the bike apart since then. So here i am, trying to figure if it's the jetting, air fuel screw or float valve or something else? Any help would be much appreciated. Oh, and wish ya'll a great riding year of 2021 ahead!!! Kamal
  3. Hey forum, :Just picked up a Honda 1979 XR185 for 300$ and I got some work on my hands, I'm looking for some advice on one of the many problems. The carb needs a rebuild or replacement, I'm not sure if its better: Extract the pilot jet the broke off from previous owner, purchase a rebuild kit, and rebuild. Or buy a cost affective Chinese carb that fits... My question is which is more cost affective, and if I did go the Chinese route would the carb work correctly with this year? I live in Canada so shipping will be expensive. thanks guys!
  4. I've got an 01´ cr125 with the stock mikuni TMX probably the 36mm, i just got the bike. I've been riding it for awhile now and i can never get the idle to be set up right, and the power delivery seems very choppy. I just don't want to get lost in jetting with it because everyone just says its not worth it to try and get these things perfect. can anybody direct me to a forum that has information on the best carburetor to run on these for motocross? I think i'm leaning towards the PWK airstriker but which one? I would spend the money on a lectron but i would like some insight first I have the mechanical ability to re jet this carb everywhere i go but i don't really want too, i know you still have to adjust the PWK but i've heard it not as much. i'm going to ride it how it is right now because i'm not super picky, but i'd like to get into some racing next year and im saving up money to invest into my bike, i feel like the only thing on it that isnt quite ¨race ready¨ is the stock carb. some insight would be awesome! thanks -Devin bianco, 15y/o, not a good rider yet but trying my best to learn
  5. Hey everyone! So I’m stuck in a bit of a dilemma and could really use all your help as I’m kinda new to dirt bikes. So a few weeks ago I ran the bike too hard without letting it warm up properly and as a result, the piston over-expanded and got damaged. I educated myself and I finally finished rebuilding the engine and made sure everything’s to spec before putting it back together. Here’s where the problems start... The bike wouldn’t start with the new piston. There is a nice blue spark and the spark plug was getting wet but barely. Slapped a new plug in there after putting a few drops of pre-mixed gas into the spark plug hole and it finally started in 1 kick. I hear cycled it perfectly and it ran very well. All things were going well...until I got to the 3rd gear. As soon as I switched into 3rd the engine bogged and died. At this point I kicked and kicked and it wouldn’t start. It also feels like it lost compression because of this, but after a few slow cranks the compression comes back. How would that even happen?! I’m really stumped on this because I’ve done everything to spec and heat cycled it properly on a new top end so I really don’t know what could be wrong. Any help will help immensely. Thanks everyone!
  6. Purchased a 38mm Keihin PWK airstryker for my 2002 cr250. Fitting the new carb is an absolute pain and have had no luck getting it to stay in the boot leading to the reed cage and can’t even get the air boot on. Any tips/tricks? Thank you
  7. Hello, I have a Gilera Runner 2T 180 Malossi Kit scooter using stage6 32mm carburettor, stage6 intake manifold and malossi VL13 reeds. It runs good but after a while the spark plug gets wet and refuses to start. If i take the spark plug out and clean it then it runs again but keeps getting wet. I tried using a smaller main jet but then it gets bogged by too much air and it still gets the spark plug wet. I’m currently using jet size 138 and it runns good full open throttle I also tried replacing the spark plug but its still getting foulded I also tried using the original reed valve with new malossi reeds which is smaller than the malossi vl13 and it gets worse. Carb is spitting vape fuel and it bogs out even at half throttle. When i take the carb out, i can see fuel inside intake manifold and reeds are all wet in both cases. Do you think the reed valve is too small? If so, which one do you recommend? Thank you!
  8. My dad’s bike (2006 wr450) is having trouble staying started. When the choke is pulled out, it stays running but as soon as you push it back it, it dies unless you ride the throttle. When riding, it revs way too high and when you go to switch it to a new gear it backfires then stalls when the clutch is let out. (Even with the choke out)
  9. Hi, Dust is collecting around my carb. Is this an issue? Both clamps are tight and I don’t think fuel is leaking. Any thoughts?
  10. Hey y’all, this is my first time posting anything and I’ve done quite a bit of google searches already and found what I felt like was plenty of information but I can’t seem to resolve this issue. My kids have a couple of Automatic SSR 70’s but they are both having the same exact problem even though I’ve only tried adjustments to one of them. Every time you give them throttle (particularly full throttle) they bog down before speeding up and I’d say about 50% of the time they just cut off. I’ve cleaned the carb, verified the jets have no debris, checked the spark plug (looked like it was running rich), cleaned the air filter, adjusted the idle screw, adjusted the float, and adjusted the external mixture screw. The bikes are basically brand new and at one point the bike worked again for like an hour but went back to bogging. The carb is a 16mm Jing Ke and only has two internal jets (Main and Pilot) and one externally adjusted one that I think is the air mixture for the Pilot jet. Any thoughts or does anyone know what kind of adjustments I could make to the carburetor to fix this? Or maybe it’s not the carb at this point? Thanks in advance!
  11. Hello everyone first post here, so I goofed and need some help Ive been searching for hours with no luck, I have a 2006 kx250f that I was cleaning and rebuilding the carb on, and had the mid body apart to clean and change gaskets. Any way I removed the the brass piece, in the picture it’s inside the intake port to the right that just sticks straight up, and I lost it. So my question is can anyone tell me what that piece is called or have a part number for it or tell me where I can buy another one. Or am I hosed and looking at buying a donor carb or a new used one?
  12. Like the title says, My carburetor is dumping gas when ever I move the bike and sometimes when its on the kickstand. I just rebuilt the top end, its a 2001 cr250r and the carb was fine before I did the piston and rings. I blasted it with some carb cleaner when i had it out, and that it. Didn't open it. Now it just dumps about 2oz of gas every couple seconds/minutes out of one of the overflows. The bike runs ok and start easy. I know people say an issue like this is float related but it isnt a constant stream its inconsistent. As if it fills up, then dumps, then repeats.
  13. Hello all hope I am posting in correct topic area. I have a 1985 Honda XL350R Dual carburetor with stock gearing 14 front 40 rear. First thing, my fuel tube was leaking so I bought an O-ring and gasket kit to repair. Tore down carbs and cleaned the hell out of them. I then eagerly test rode. Fired up in two kicks and ran like a champ. A day or two went by and I then wanted to take it for another spin. Started right up two or three kicks. Awesome! But after riding for about 5 to 10 minutes throttle response was gone. Idles fine, but when put in gear and give it 1/4 throttle it falls on its face and dies if I don't let up. What could cause this ladies and gents? Any knowledge and suggestions are very appreciated. Next question is gearing. I plan on doing 90% trail riding with it and if I get good enough would like to start practicing some tougher enduro stuff. Will this stock gearing work for me or should I re-gear to get a little more torque. I am new to the dirt bike/enduro world due to wasting 10 years on road bikes lol. Thanks, AVP89
  14. So here is my story, please excuse me, it will be a long one... I recently purchased my 2002 Honda XR400R from a used seller on Craigslist in Fresno. Upon arriving, the bike kick started on the first kick, unfortunately, this was my first bike. I tried to do research before hand to ask certain questions about the bike, but I fumbled and asked the wrong questions and forgot about others. I got excited, test rode (didn’t see or hear any problems) and bought the bike for $2500. I came home and tried kick starting it, it began to be a bit difficult, but I wrote it off because I assumed this would need a bit of tuning. I ended up getting it started and riding it to my friends garage. The Problem Moving forward, it began leaking gas from the overflow valve. I freaked out and started doing research on reddit and thumpertalk forums. I came to the conclusion that I would order a new float needle and get the entire carburetor ultrasonic cleansed. Fortunately, the leak stopped! On the other hand, it was still super hard to start. I read online that rejetting the Carb would help things get started and run a bit better. I ordered a Moose Carburetor rebuild kit, alongside a 60/160 combo on the pilot and main jet. It started! However, it started only while the choke was fully on and as soon as I turned the choke down or off, it shut off. I decided to call a buddy over to diagnose the problem and we found out that my intake manifold was missing the O-ring completely! I thought to myself what the &%$#@!. I am currently ordering a OEM O-Ring from bike bandit but it has not been shipped yet. For now, I sealed it up with a high temperature permatex. It worked for the time being, but I will replace it as soon as the O-ring comes in. So once that was patched up, we sprayed starter fluid over the intake manifold to see if there were any other leaks, or if the seal wasn’t going to work, there weren’t any. We adjusted the idle and fuel mixture screw at about 1 - 1/4 (based on my manual) and it was solid, able to run with the choke on and off. Moving on once again, today, my friend suggested that when we give the bike throttle, it had a delaying response. And on top of that, it was still a pain in the ass to start. Before doing this, the previous day, I switched out the spark plugs to a new NGK DPR8Z, so it couldn’t have been that. I thought about the compression, but that does not feel off at all either. So my friend, which I trust due to his track record of bikes told me to use the rebuild kit’s jets, which were about a 52/150 jet and once we replaced the jets, the carburetor leaked a bit of gas and started, but the throttle response was a bit weird for me, nonetheless, it was starting no problem when warm with no problem from accelerating. I let it sit for a bit, cool off to see if it would start easier while not warm, I accelerated a bit and it immediately shut off. Annnnnd guess what? It is a b*tch to start again. My friend is assuming that it can be a valve adjustment issue, but at this point I am not sure. Maybe I should get the 60/160 jets back in the bike? I have a scheduled mechanic meeting on Saturday, I just don’t know what to say to them so they can help me out. I don’t want to go in debt over something that could be so small. I don’t even know where to go from here. also, thank you to Trialryder (I believe that is the user) that has been answering my previous questions.
  15. Hi everyone, first time long time. I’m sure someone’s had these problems before but I can’t find it anywhere. 2015 DR650, tm40 carb, opened air box, yoshimura exhaust. I had let the bike sit a long time and when I started her up it was a nightmare. At the time I had the stock carb on, I got it to run pretty good by cleaning the jets but figured it was time to get the pumper carb, so I did. I installed the pumper carb with my idiot friend, he’s like a child and always has to be touching something or fiddling around. The carb shipped out to me set up for what I have done on my bike, but when I came back to the bike after grabbing a ratchet I see my idiot friend playing Away with the adjustment screws on the carburetor before the bike had even been started. Anyway, I flipped out at him and we had to go from there. So now I have the bike giving me all kinds of weird issues. First off it backfires like crazy after coming off the throttle, I thought this might be normal with the exhaust I have on but I figured I’d throw it in, considering I’ve done a little digging and heard this might mean the bike is running lean. The bigger problem is intermittently the bike seems to misfire and die, and a puff of smoke will come out of the air box. I believe the carburetor is my main issue here, but like I said it sat a long time. The bike runs better on choke then it does off the choke. I had to adjust the idle speed screw way out to get it to idle off choke, but it still pops and dies here or there. The mixture screw is at about two and a half turns out from bottomed out. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can confidently rule out gas problems because I drained the tank and added a nice big inline fuel filter. also did an oil change with a new oil filter. the only two screws he touched were the gold screw on the bottom (mixture screw), and the big screw off the side with the spring and white plastic, which I believe is the idle adjustment but please correct me if I’m wrong. I know there is an accelerator pump screw somewhere on there but he didn’t touch it, and to be honest if I can avoid it, I’d like to. I really just want a nice running bike, if I can play with it later to make more power, I’ll do it down the road. THANKS AGAIN, PLEASE HELP!
  16. Have a 1995 yz125 that will start only with a half to wide open throttle. Will run not idle when it is kicked over but runs well when you're on the gas. Did a top end rebuild w/ cylinder plating, replaced reeds, cleaed carb. Oh air screw is 2 full turns out but only time I get close to idle is when the idle screw is all the way tightened. Should I drop a size or two on my pilot jet?
  17. So Im planning on taking my pitbike to the track this weekend so i thought i would give it a servicing. I drained the oil, put in new oil and gave her some kicks, she had trouble idling so I went in and cleaned the carb, took out the pilot jet and was able to spray carb cleaner through (though I couldn't seem to get a wire to go all the way through). there was a screw that screwed into what Im assuming was the main jet, unless that was the main jet, Im not sure. I sprayed carb cleaner through that as well. I didn't take out what it was that the tiny screw went into. sorry if that's confusing. I screwed everything back into their proper places and started the bike, it idles fun but when i give it throttle to fast, it cuts out and dies if you don't let off. did I do something to the jetting? any help is appreciated
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