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  1. Hi everybody. I come to this forum which I've been browsing extensively. Despite the large amount of information concerning the settings of this carburetor on thumpertalk, I have a problem that I can't solve. That's why I'm creating a new topic despite the amount of information I already have. I live in the swiss alps and I bought a 2004 european WRF450 supermoto six months ago. Perfect bike for the small winding roads near my house. I have completely revised it and it works well. Here are the different characteristics: -Main jet: 165 defined by the method of stopping carburation at full throttle. good spark plug color. -Pilot Jet: 50 -Pilot air jet: 80 -Pilot screw: 3 and 1/2 turn out!!!! -Needle model/Clip position: OBDUQ/ 2nd positon from the top (european stock) (OBDUR ordered for lower clip height) -Exhaust: Stock -AP timing set correctly with a 3.1mm diameter shaft. -Altitude where you ride: 1500-2000 -Valve lash good The bike starts well at the first kick. No bugs when the motorcycle is running As you can see the pilot screw is (much) too loose. Even if I increase the diameter of the pilot jet (to have a richer setting and to be able to tighten the screw in a correct range),the setting of pilot screw remains the same: 3 or more turns out. I went up .48 to a .55 pilot jet and the problem remains the same. The carburettor has been completely disassembled, ultrasonic cleaned, all gaskets changed. the height of the float has been adjusted to 8 mm. Pilot screw, o-ring and spring are new and have been ordered from Yamaha. I don't understand why the change of pilot jet has no effect. Ideas?
  2. The bike has been sitting for over 5 years, and it seems the petcock failed. Of course this let gas sit in the carb and go bad. I just got the engine to spin today using a breaker bar on the magneto side of the crank, and now I'm going through the fuel system cleaning out 5 year old gasoline turned to cement. My current issue is the float needle is absolutely welded into the seat. I can't even get it out using 3/4 of my strength with pliers, and if I keep using that method the needle is going to be trashed. How would y'all go about getting the needle out? I've been soaking the carb in carb cleaner, and the passageways seem to turn too much / too sharp to get a guitar string from the fuel nipple to the needle + seat. This is my first KTM, so if I'm missing something obvious, please let me know.
  3. I just rebuilt the carb on my 2006 Honda CRF250R and I'm having issues with idling. I used a full rebuild kit and replaced every jet and gasket/seal. I fired it up for the first time and it idled a little low but steady with the choke out. I bogged it out when trying to give it gas and then it hasn't idled since. I have to constantly be twisting the throttle and it only runs when the accelerator pump is injecting the fuel but it dies if I hold the throttle open. Any advice?
  4. Hello all! New to TT and the dirtbiking world. Just recently purchased a 2014 klx250s at altitude (5000 feet). I almost immediately moved down to 2200 feet in the desert. I don't know what pilot and main jets are currently installed but I can assume it needs to change as the bike is probably running really lean. If anyone has recommendations for what jets to use and other settings to change before I start taking things apart would be gladly appreciated! I don't have a very permanent garage situation so every tune up/part replacement I do I try to make a one day job. I brought the bike with a FMF Q4 Muffler and Power Bomb Header Pipe. Thanks!
  5. So I got a 1973 Kawasaki F7 and it came with no spark and we did some testing and found out the stator is bad. I was gonna try rewinding but decided it would probably take a long time and then end up not working. It took awhile but we finally found a stator for a good price. We put it on and we got spark. A couple days later I hooked a little gas tank up to the carb and it started right up no problems. We saw that the fuel filter was messed up so we decided to put our own on there. It didn’t start. We did some messing around and decided to take the carb apart to see what was going on in there. It was in rough shape and I’m surprised it ran in the first place. Found a carburetor rebuild kit for a similar carb to ours and everything happened to fit perfectly on our carb. The bike was running again. It did have some flooding problems. I adjusted the float and it seemed to fix the problems so when I got it running I left it alone. The next time I tried messing with it I couldn’t get it started. There is a black (I think it has a white strip) (I think its a ground wire) wire that is hanging off the ignition or something (I can’t tell) and it would spark on some metal it was touching in sync with the engine noise. Once I saw it stop sparking and then the engine died. We couldn’t get it running and we were messing with the wire and it seemed to help the bike start up whenever the wire would spark. We hooked It up to the kill switch and it ran so I turned the kill switch to the off position and the bike shut off. The other day I was messing with it and the bike would start but immediately die and backfire (this bike is a two stroke so I thought the backfiring was interesting) I tried messing with the bike today and it didn’t even try start. Does any of this sound like carb problems? Or is it ignition problems. It seems like ignition problems to me but I’m not an expert. The carb still floods too but I think I know why. Thank you and I hope that wasn’t too confusing to read. Let me know if it is and I’ll try to explain better. now that I’m thinking about it, the spark plugs threads are pretty worn out and that could be causing compression issues
  6. Picked up this old bandit from a friend of mine in a not running condition, engine was free so figured id give it a shot. config is : 105 main jet 35 idle jet dynojet(I think) needle with the cv shaft lift hole drilled (I think) two washers under the needle and clip on 4 from top from a manual I found online. (I have factory needles if you guys think this is the problem) aftermarket pipe floats set to manual specs redone coil wired and plugs, with new spark plugs gapped to manual factory air box and suzuki filter new orings on the intake boots found throttle shafts to only have 2 felt seals of six so the whole set got orings installed instead of the felt factory seals. new bowl seals and float valves (polished the seats for the float and needle valves) fuel screws all set to 3 turns out. all new vacuum and fuel lines. all recent testing done from a cup of fuel with an inline filter, tank off great compression in all 4 cylinders I can't get this thing to fire right at all. It's my first venture into multi carb bikes and its really throwing me a loop. today i put it all back together to see if all my rework (again) paid off. cyl 3/4 run like champs, 1 isn't showing up to the party. 2 does occasionally. good spark in both. carb cleaner to the carb inlet while idling brings 1 and 2 to life but im getting fuel back through the inlet on 1. idles at around 1500rpm with just 3/4 running and choke takes it to about 5 and it slowly climbs after that. carb cleaner around the boots and throttle shafts isnt giving me any more leak indicators. I can rev it up pretty good with just the 2 cylinders but it bogs on the initial throttle. Honestly i would put all the jetting back to stock if it weren't for that aftermarket pipe. Any great insight? Thanks in advance.
  7. I have a drz400sm 2006, it has 3x3 mod, 39mm carb and fmf powerbomb header + powercore 4 slip-on I was out riding when the intake boot fell off, I re-attached it and went along. Short while after it started engine breaking harder than normal and when I stopped it would no longer idle (approx. 30min after me fixing intake boot) before this it was starting and idling fine (wouldn't start with choke on, but didn't think much of it) throttle response was ok also. Now after this I am able to get it to idle with choke on, but not without. tried adjusting idle as far as it would go but wouldn't work. I disassembled the bike and took of the carb, when I bought it I thought it was an FCR39mm carb on there. When I took it out I saw it is a Mikuni, but when I google "drz400 mikuni 39mm" I can't find anything other than the FCR39. Any Ideas about what could be wrong here? I have not torn apart the carburator yet, since I don't know what it is other than 39mm(I think) There is a weird port on the engine side which seem to be drawing air straight in, this was not plugged on the bike. drawn around in blue.
  8. Does anyone have a recommendation for a carburator replacement for a 2004 CRF250X? They're a dime a dozen on eBay, but has anyone really bought and installed one? Knock-offs for sure. Long story short, I've picked up a used 2004 CRFX that sat for years. I've cleaned the carb. and found a crack, it's leaking fuel. I'd rather start fresh rather than piece together replacement parts, but I'd also rather avoid the $500 for a name brand replacement. Thoughts?
  9. What is this Red Top Jet Needle without any other markings on it? When I bought my 2012 YZ250 a few months back it wasn’t long before I took the carb apart and noticed it had a JN with no markings on it. The only thing I could ID on it was that the top/Head was painted red. I tried replacing the JN with others (EW, EJ, CW) for ID reasons but nothing seem to work as good as the Red Top JN. It just seems to be the magic JN! Need to know for future reference and recommend it to anyone!!!
  10. Hey All, I have never posted but I have used thumper talk to get my bike squared away, very nice info and details. I just wanted to update some people that may have a honda crf450R carburated. I went thru all the forums for an after fire on a CRF450r and went thru them all with no luck. What fixed it I never found on the forum so I wanted to start a thread incase others were having similar issues. So what happened was my bike started popping like crazy nothing had changed (jetting, fuel screw, etc) checked for air leaks none, rebuilt carburator nothing, adjusted fuel screws thru all extremes in 1/8 turn increments nothing. Thinking it was jetting I rejeted to a ridiculous level sea level -28 degrees popping went away but had a bog. I finally realized the only thing I had not checked was the Float Level. After checked electrical, carb rebuilds, air leaks, etc I decided to check the float, did not think it would have a impact but by sure it did. I made a U out of cardboard |____________| 8mm deep and the width of the carb (saw this on thumper it worked wonders) and checked the float, I soon found out it was out of wack by 2mm (needs 8mm) I checked this by running fuel thru until it shut off and measured. Once I got the float figured out and measurement right I re-jetted to my altitude approx 50000 ft. with temps from 40-100 degrees (did a 172 jet, 42 slow jet, 2nd clip on the needle and my problem went away with a couple turns of the fuel screw no popping on acceleration (slight pop on decel when you go from full throttle to no throttle I believe this is normal or semi normal). I never saw the float mentioned so I do not know if the 3rd time taking apart the carb is the charm or if adjusting the float had that big of an impact. So if you CRF honda is popping while accelerating and you feel like your carb is clean and not plugged check the float it may save you some headache. Thanks Thumper Talk, best forum for any info on almost anything. Amazing experience here, keep up the good work.
  11. So, I bought this bike a month ago. It ran in the guys garage but I never rode it, just paid the man and loaded it up and brougth it home. So it runs, but is very hard to start...won't idle, backfires, spits, I have to keep working the throttle to keep it running. The first time I started it the throttle cable/throttle tube, etc...wouldn't even return so I parked it for some clean and lube...I wasn't wearing a helmet...it was 11:00 at night, snowing, I'd never ridded a BRP before...didn't want to have to pry myself off a parked car down the street so anyway here I am today. I've had time now to clean and oil the air filter, new spark plug, drained the tank, and carburator bowl, fresh fuel, new throttle tube, lubed cables, new grips, (new AVS levers), and so I'm back to where I started...Yesterday, with a ton of effort, I finally fired it back up. I almost quit trying to kick it; but I'd then try one more time. I finally tried a shot of starting fluid, but only caused a fire in the airbox but it quickly was put out...I had the Uni Filter (freshly cleaned) out with the choke on half; and it finally came to life. I had to keep working the throtte...I quickly flipped the choke wide open and it ran better and I thought it was going to run fine...I put it in gear and ran it down the street...hoping it would just run fine...One Block, Two Blocks, Three Blocks...turn around...same thing on return...I wheelied a bit in second gear...I know I was smiling...anticipating a nicley running bike that I now could continue to dump tons of money into. But then I got back to the house and I was still pumping the throttle, and then I thought well lets see how she idles...and flatline...................... I'm thinking rebuild the carb...AGAIN...the one reciept the guy gave me was fron his local power sport store for a carb rebuild and tune for $408...labor/parts etc...I am assuming it ran good then...??? What'd ya'll do?
  12. I'm new to this form and have a couple of my bikes I have questions on. First bike is my 2003 KTM 450 SX. It runs great and I can run it down the road throttle and on trails no problem without it dying on me. But when I jump it, it spits, sputters and dies. So when I land I need to pop the clutch to get it started again. Any idea what this could be? second question is on my 2003 KTM 125 sx. When I'm riding it it tends to surge around 3/4 to full throttle. But when I let off it will kinda go back to normal. I've cleaned the carb, new air cleaner, fresh rebuild, just can't figure it out. any help would be appreciated. I am a marine mechanic so I usually can figure this kind of stuff out but I've been stuck on these two bikes for awhile. Thanks
  13. I have a 2008 YZ450F with the stock Keihin FCR MX 39 carburator. The mods that I know the bike has are a new FMF PC4 pipe with no spark arrestor and a aftermarket header pipe that looks to be just an OE replacement. I have already done the O-ring mod the the carb and have thoroughly cleaned and replaced all the gaskets. I also just re-shimmed the bike and checked the timing and everything is in spec, she starts as easy as a 2 stroke now and runs VERY well in everywhere but from idle to the first 1/8th throttle any maybe just a bit beyond that. There is a lot of popping and it sounds like it is breathing decently hard. My jetting specs Main jet: 160 Pilot:50 (sounds rich I know) Needle: NFLR 4th position Leak jet:55 Starter:72 Fuel Screw:1.5 (when I adjust this it hardly changes anything) So for the jetting changes I make if I put everything close to stock it runs very lean! So the bike runs amazing everywhere but that first bit so I was thinking about changing the needle diameter but I have NO idea on how to decode the Keihin charts and would appreciate some help I want the same needle specs as my OE needle but with the diameter being just a tad more on the rich side. From what I have seen here https://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_type/needle_keihin_N427-OC_FCR_35-41mm.html Changing the diameter to more rich would help fix my issue. I may be too stupid to read that chart or something but help is appreciated, thank you!!
  14. Hi, I've been experiencing some weird symptoms on my 2003 yz125. I think this is usually the scenario: Ill stop for a second to take a break on some trails and then get going again. Right as I get going, about to get into power band range, the bike dies... as if theres no fuel, no spark, nothin. Just dies. It wont bump start and the only way I can start it is clutch in or neutral and kick it. Then it might do the same thing. After a couple more tries it will run completely normal until I stop again. I haven't done more than a 4 hour excursion at a time and I've only put 5-6 engine hours on the bike. At first i though it was completely random when it would decide to cut out. I'm not entirely sure but I believe stopping and taking a rest is key to recreating the problem. dunno why. Theres also something to do with it not liking the load of a bump start too. I had problems with intake leaks previously and a stuck float but I sorted all that out last week. Took apart the carb, carb dip and cleaned and inspected all the sealing surfaces. took an unlit propane torch and tested for leaks- everything seemed good. The reason I bring up the intake leak is the current symptoms seem similar to the intake leak- Get going and at a certain RPM the mixture goes to lean and the engine cuts out until RPMs drop again. Except that now it dies completely and cant be revived with a bump start or lowering rpms. gotta stop the bike and/or pull clutch and kick it over. On a side note, at the end of todays ride I took a good spill... also lost my kickstart lever in the last 5-6 miles of trail somehow. Bump started it on a hill and everything seemed good. Got to the parking lot and put it in neutral and the idle was way higher than before the fall/the rest of the day. Gotta wait till the stupid kickstart lever comes in the mail next week before i can really dive into anything. Anyone wanna take a stab at this?
  15. Did a top end and right side crank seal put it all back together and the fuel pours out of carb on overflow tube when riding full throttle then stopping. Rebuilt the carb, pours constantly. Its been apart 12 times cleaning and checking float level amd i just dont know what to do
  16. I have a 05 yz250. The jetting is very good. I have not had to change a plug since i got the jetting dialed in 30 hrs of riding ago. Yesterday riding single track it was running great then it instantly fouled a plug. I thought I may have got the stator wet so I pulled the cover and it was dry. I changed plugs and rode for about 2 hours and it did the same thing. I was out of plugs thankfully I wasn’t far from the truck. I got home and changed the plug and it fired right up. The only issue I have ever had with the carb is it doesn’t like the choke. If I have to use it in the cold it will load up the plug fast. I have to turn the choke off and use the throttle to warm the bike up. Any one have any ideas why it would start fouling out just out of the blue then run excellent and foul another one out of the blue? Thanks
  17. So my friend bought an rm125 with a blown top end, so we replaced everything, got it all put back together and the bike wouldn't start. We are getting strong spark, but that doesn't seem to change anything. The carburetor was leaking a steady stream of fuel from the overflow when the petcock was opened, so I assumed since it was sitting for so long, probably just a stuck or blocked needle valve. Pulled the carburetor apart, cleaned it and put it back together. Same issue persisted. Eventually bought a new carburetor, installed it, and after a few kicks we are leaking gas again. The petcock has some issues, but that wouldn't cause an overflow would it? I would assume the float would still ride and cut off flow. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  18. I have an ugly 1987 XR600R that doesn't have brakes, has the wrong exhaust, needs axle bearings all around, doesn't have the auto compression release set up. But it runs really well and is extremely fast, all of the hoses except the fuel line have been removed from the carbs. I also have a 1985 600 that is in much better shape overall, but runs much weaker. The carbs on the 85 still have all the oem hoses hooked up. Do any of these hoses hinder the power of the engine? (like an egr on a car)? Or does the power difference come from the different exhaust pipes (less back pressure on the 87)?
  19. I have been a big fan of Kinger 317's Power Jet #40 jetting recipe and have been running his exact formula for nearly as long as I've owned my 2018 YZ250X with good results. I would endorse his formula for any head squish corrected YZ250 which -- while there are plenty of variants in the 71-page and counting thread (see below) -- I believe the starting point for the "Kinger 317 Power Jet #40" recipe is... 175 main / 45 pilot / 40 power jet / N3EW 3rd clip Kinger's recipe has been pretty much a year-round "set it and forget it" for me at 700-1,100 feet above sea level and 40F to 80F temps. And if the look of my piston at the 90-hour top end was any indication, it also offers top end longevity confidence. That said, I was following another thread (debating RK Tek and Apex heads) where someone suggested that those companies have jetting suggestions for their heads. So, I reached out to RK Tek (I have their head), sent them my details so they knew which of their heads I have, plus the range of conditions I ride in, and asked: "What jetting should I run?" The response I got was curious, which for the purpose of the rest of this thread I am going to code-name "Power Jet Zero" ... 180 main / 52 pilot / plug the power jet / NRG needle in middle clip (2016 Factory KTM 300 needle) I bought the various jets and plugged the power jet with a stainless steel 4mm set screw (from a set I found on Amazon for repairing all those doorknobs and towel racks that needs those sorts of things; I had to file it a bit shorter) Why, you might ask, if the bike is running well, why would I bother? Long story short, the weather has been crappy, so it was an excuse to fiddle with the bike and I was curious: could I make it run even better? With 6-days of rain on the horizon starting tomorrow, I did the jet swap last night and rode it today. Hmmm. I think I might like it better! Do not get me wrong, I was happy with the power jet 40 setup, but I think I'm gonna keep this one, at least for a while. What did I perceive as different? I will confess that the power jet 40 setup "sounds" crisper through the first 3/4 of throttle, but the power jet zero "felt" more a bit more linear and and without any points of hesitation. With the power jet 40 setup, I would sometimes notice maybe a tiny lag at that 1/4 throttle mark (I do not have the PV mod) as well what I always wondered was maybe some fall off at peak RPMs, whereas the power jet zero jetting, I seemed to have experienced a little less lag and I definitely perceived it better at high revs. Caveats: It could be today's weather conditions, so I will need to test it some more; and I'm not an experienced tuner, nor do I bother with things like plug chop tests, and "sound" vs "feel" makes sense to me as I try to recount the experience, but that may not make so much sense, so please take this information with a grain of salt! That said, I thought it was a curious idea to plug the power jet and wanted to share it for anyone who might want to try it.
  20. Ok so I wanted to check out my sparkpkug while my tank was off and it was fine but I shined my light down the hole to check it out and it seemed dirty at the very bottom. Would could cause this? Is it normal the plug didn't have any oil or nothing on it. The other problem is when I ride my bike for atleast 5 or 10 min after the first ride of the day it will die with the choke off it only runs with the choke on do i need to clean the Carb?
  21. I took the carb apart to inspect why there was a small gas leak and when I took the accelerator pump apart the diaphram was ripped up And pieces of the rubber were in there it wasnt like that two weeks ago what did I do wrong? Was it in upside down or something? Im trying to figure out what is the right way so I dont mess up the new one some one please help is this the order it goes on
  22. I have a 1995 yz125 2t and the thing runs pretty good, well at least it seems to have no issues but it does not need the choke to start the bike. I changed the main, idle, and needle jets all to factory specs for my temperature and altitude. The bike will start first kick when 100% cold and will start first kick when warm but it just does not need the choke. So I'm wondering if I'm hindering my bikes performance in a way because it does not need the choke. Suggestions?
  23. Hello all. I own a very clean 2003 cr125. The bike starts first or second kick cold, but just does not want to idle by itself. Little spooge leaks while riding (normal considering I haven’t been ringing it out, I normally ride trails). Power isn’t lacking either as she rides very well, just doesn’t idle when I take my hand off the throttle. I don’t think the reeds are cracked as I have brand new vforce in there. I’m thinking I just have to totally clean out the carb and get the jetting correct, it’s still got the stock mikuni on it. Is there something else I should be doing? Bike just flat out doesn’t idle.
  24. Devkoo

    MOLKT PE28

    If had several molkt 24mm carb's, never had any real problems with them they always preformed well, so i was very pleased to see they came with a keihin pe28 copy. maybe it's around longer but i have not seen it before. The jets (118/40) and a 3.0 throttle valve are from keihin and the floating bowls look be be from oko, and there's a cap now on the bottom of the bowl for easy access to the main jet as you find on a pwk or a oko pe intake diameter: 51mm exit diameter: 35mm I have paid about 60,- euro's for it, the oko pe28 is around 80,- and the keihin is 160,- ,the oko actually performs just as good as the keihin on my bikes. So i can't wait to try it out
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