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Showing results for tags 'carburetor'.
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Hey forum Just got a RM85 I am rebuilding the engine on, I need to get a carb as he sold the Carb that was on it to someone. Does anyone have a link to a carb that will actually fit, seems like alot of the ebay ones don't fit when reading the reviews. Also I'm looking for the most cost-effective carb, rather then oem Carb, I'm also coming from Canada so shipping can get expensive. Thanks, Simon Kimbley
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Hey guys, im in the process of putting an 82 XL500r back together. Previous owner jerry-rigged a lot of things on this bike. Im attempting to get it back on the road. Currently it is not running, but the PO said it has "recently". Seems to have good compression, but haven't gotten it to fire yet. (Im aware of the kickstart procedure on the 500). Currently have a foam uni filter on it, as the stock airbox was damaged by the PO. All that to say, after a good cleaning, carb is still overflowing from the overflow valve (Float still sticking?). In addition to this, the accelerator pump is shot, and all the other rubber on the carb. What are my drop in replacement options? Trying to save a little time, find a carb that will jet easier with the uni, and potentially find a carb with available rebuild parts in the future. What are my options? Ive heard mikuni, but anyone have model numbers that will fit and work in this application? Thanks in advance for your help.
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Hello Guys I’m new here but I’m here because I just bought a kfx 400 2006 model, I’ve done some research and many say that the kfx is the same as the ltz 400 and I’m convinced lol but I have one problem with the quad I bought, it has a edelbrock carb and it’s running really rich, I tried to tune it but damn it’s hard cuz I get one thing right but then the other messes up, so I was planning on buying a fcr carb but I’m not sure where to find one I looked on eBay Amazon and can’t find one I also read that a drz carb will fit on a ltz so I was wondering if I buy a fcr39 carb for a drz will it fit on my Kfx400? -
Hey y’all. I’ve read all the threads I can find and I’m still stumped. I have an ‘05 150f that is new to me. Got it with a dirty gas tank and nasty carb but it otherwise looks to be in good shape. There was plenty of rubber left on the stock tires before I changed them, so I assume it didn’t have many hours. It looks to be in good shape aside from having sat a while. I rebuilt the carb and figured I’d rejet while I was in there. Based on what I saw here I did a 110 main and 42 pilot. I’m in Texas at about 500ft over sea level and it’s hot. The bike started up just fine but had a really bad mid throttle bog. I fouled up the plug really quickly with dry black soot. I figured I was rich and went down to a 40 and put in a new plug. Same bog, maybe slightly better? After that I got frustrated and put in stock 105/38. Same bog. Ran out of plugs but I’m sure this one would be fouled too. It starts and runs, just sounds like you’re in too low a gear around mid throttle. 1/4 is fine, 3/4 and up is also fine. Float level is slightly below the bowl using the clear hose method. Fuel screw is at 1.5 turns out. I noticed I don’t have the white plastic baffle. Pulling the choke makes it worse. I’m done for the night but tomorrow I’m going to raise the float level and look around for the plastic baffle or steal one from another bike to check it out. Regardless, it’s a really bad bog. It makes the bike unridable. I’ve never had a float height be so off that the bike starts and runs but sputters that bad. Any ideas? Please feel free to include things you think are offensively stupid to have missed, because I’m pretty sure it’s going to end up being something dumb.
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So, bought a stripped down bike (07 YZ250F) and the carby was already apart. (They lost interest apparently) can anyone tell me the part that is circled and what it’s for as it looks blocked off intentionally to me. it does not have a thread and pushes in and out. The parts breakdown I can find online don’t have this section apart so I’m thinking it’s been disassembled a bit too far? i bought a rebuild kit online for the specific bike I have and this part isn’t contained in the kit.
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So I just got done rebuilding this 2014 KX85 when I went to go fired up gas was pissing out of the overflow and it wouldn't stop so I took the carburetor apart float wasn't stuck and everything was clean I try to adjusting the float that didn't work I'm just a little stumped right now Any ideas? This bike did sit for quite a while probably hasn't been rode since 2015 it had very few hours on it someone wrecked it blew it up and sold it
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I have a 2004 Rm-Z250. I bought it off a guy for $700 because he didn't want to deal with it anymore. He put a new crank and piston in and still couldn't get it going. I brought it home and did a compression check and it read 60. which is low, I know. So I took it apart and looked and the cylinder and it had some pretty good scratches in it. I honed it for about 15 Seconds and threw it back together and kicked the hell out of it and nothing. I pulled the spark plug out to check the compression and the plug was saturated in oil. I was getting blow by. so I bought a new cylinder and just threw it on and that fixed the blow by. So then I tried to start it and it was giving me a really hard time and wouldn't start so I checked the plug to see if it was shot. It had a decent amount of carbon build up so I threw a new one in. It was wanted to start when I did that. I started to feather the throttle a little to try to help it and it fired up. not every time but about once every 10-20 kicks. So after going through the entire bottom end and top end, the only thing i'm left with is the carb. The bike wont idle and I gave it a little ride and its not running too hot so I believe something is wrong with the carb. I cleaned the jets too. I just took it apart and the O ring on the throttle slide is broken and I am going to throw a new on on but I feel like there is more to it than that. especially with it being so hard to start. There is also a knob on the bottom of the float bowl with numbers on it. Numbered 1-4. I attached an image so you can see what I am talking about. I've looked at the manual and at tons of carbs and have no clue what it is. If anyone could help me out it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Alex -
Hey guys i recently acquired a 2012 Yahama yz250f and i will need to be re-jetting the carburetor. I'm not really sure where to start on what size jets i will need. I ride between 7,000 and 10,000 feet in elevation. -
Wondering if anyone has had any luck with a non-chinese, non-OEM carburetor replacement for the BW80. I picked up an '86 sans-carb, and I cant find an OEM carb assembly anywhere.. lots of chinese knock-off for between $15-30, but experience has taught me that these are generally garbage. I have been considering a Mikuni VM18 or VM20 carburetor, but would like to know if anyone has had luck with these or a different assembly. The VM18/VM20 assembly would require installation of the carb such that the choke and adjustment screws would be on the back-side of the carb, which might be a PITA to get to. Thanks in advance
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To those of you who ride both during summer and winter, how often and which jets do you have to adjust? Let's say you get the jetting bang on during the summer at 30 degrees. How much of a temperature difference is enough to make you re-jet? And if there's a big change in temperature (let's say you want to ride at 0 degrees during the winter, same altitude), which jets do you change? Is it enough to just change the main jet and adjust the air screw, or do you change the main jet, pilot jet and the needle (or the position)? I want to hear from those who have personal experience, concrete examples with jet sizes would be nice. I've read many tutorials on jetting, but most of them just tell you how to adjust the jetting right now, not the things I mentioned.
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After doing some adjusting to my float, my 2 stroke has started running a lot better than before but started acting a little bit funny. First, It's a little bit of a pain to start. Then, The idle feels low and it dies if not given gas. Also, if I'm on the clutch while coasting it tends to die. Lastly, bottom and mid power feel pretty good, but the top end power feels weak. Whenever I stop it pours a little gas out of the vent hoses. Is my problem still my float? If so, how do I adjust to fix this?
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hi there , so trying to remove and clean jets in carby while still on bike , just cant quit get them out. should I remove the carby or am I missing something. any help would be appreciated . cheers tony
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Hello, My name is Dan. I recently bought a 2001 yz125. I have been having jetting issues that i cant seem to fix. I have rebuilt the carb, tried a JD Jetting kit, and new reeds and nothing is working. I am looking for someone in the Central Jersey area who is willing to help me work on my bike and get it running strong. I have all tools necessary. I would pay $25 dollars per hour. This is completely legitimate. Feel free to text me at 908-448-9639. Located in Central New Jersey -
Hi I recently bought a KTM 250sx 2005 and my bike leaks a lot of oil. I made a topic recently asking how to fix this and got amazing answers from everyone! And I asked this question on the other topic, yet to be answered, but I felt it was a different question wholly due to the paragraph it took to ask the question. And if it is answered there, this one can be deleted, but I wanted to know how do I tune the carburetor to run 50:1. It currently runs 32:1 and I believe the carb is tuned for that. I don't know jet specs but I will try to find out. I know you can adjust the jets via the air/fuel screw... I was told to turn it all the way lean and run the fuel, and I understand to adjust accordingly. But I just want to know what I must do to know if I should turn it richer or leaner based on what the bike does. What are the signs to tell to tune richer once I turn it all the way lean? And is there only one screw I must turn? or are there many? someone please explain all of this.
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I have a 2004 Yamaha WR250F that the previous owner modified and the bike doesn’t run the way it should. It has an FMF muffler with an aftermarket pipe coming from the engine. There’s no other silencers or restrictions in the exhaust. When I got the bike, it was backfiring every time I let off the throttle no matter what speed I was doing. When the previous owner first started the bike, part of the exhaust pipe was cherry red while he was warming it up by giving it more throttle. I took the carburetor apart and found out that I have a 178 main jet, 40 pilot jet, and 72 leak jet. The needle clip was in the middle in the 4th position. I adjusted the fuel screw back to the 1.5 turns out position from the 3.5 turns out position the previous owner had it set at. I changed out the pilot jet to a 45 and the bike no longer backfires while I ride it but it does die when I leave it to idle. Sometimes it dies immediately after letting off the throttle and other times it will idle for a minute or two before dying. Now before this gets too confusing, I ran the bike with the fuel screw at 1.5 turns out and 3.5 turns out after changing the pilot jet. At 1.5 turns out, the bike would only run when choked and would die when idling. At 3.5 turns out, the bike will run with the choke off but will still die when idling. If anyone has any suggestions to try, please let me know.
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Today I decided to clean the carburator of my crf250r 2005. It was my second time doing it. When I opened up the top of the carburator to remove the slide, I didn't remove the throttle shaft screw and I still slid the slide out, but the control arm is now stuck. This video explain what I should have done at about 1:00. The only difference is I didn't remove the throttle shaft screw and now the control arm is sutck up and I can't slide it back down with the slide. I was still able to remove the slide. Anyone knows how to fix this? I can't acces the throttle shaft screw anymore since the control arm is stuck up. -
2008 crf250r dirt bike I bought took forever to start when I test rode it and wouldn't idle very well so I cleaned the carb which seemed to help the idle problem. It still took a few tries to get it started both hot or cold so I got a new plug for it which seemed to help a little more. It still takes 4-5 tries to kickstart and I have to rev it slightly as I kick but when I do it starts right up. Is this just a little trick like some bikes have or is there a greater problem that needs to be checked?
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Hey guys. I am looking into getting a lectron carb.... just wondering if anyone here has ever bought a 38mm lectron and not liked it and took it off? if you took it off, and have it just sitting in the shop... what didnt you like about it? why arent you running it?
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Back story. Just finished complete rebuild new head, valves, crank, bearings seals, and muffler bearing. I've checked, double checked ,and checked again timing. Exhaust valves are .011 and the intake are. .007 (I know a frog hair loose). It will fire right up when towed and it will stay running. So I am assuming ( I know) the carb probably needs some help. Can you guys point me in the right direction as I am baffled by carburetor theory and function. By the way happy Mother's Day to any that are reading brad
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So I have a 2007 Yamaha YZ450f that I bought a few months ago. I took the bike out to desert for the first time, it was running PERFECT I was riding it for about 30 minutes and then all of a sudden it just started popping and was backfiring no matter what RPM I was at. I came to a stop and it just died, I started it up again, and I found the only way to keep it alive was by using the throttle. When I got home (sea level) I looked at the carb and noticed that the fuel screw fell out and was MISSING! I figured it must have fallen out while I was riding, So right away I bought a new Factory Effex fuel screw. When my new fuel screw arrived I installed it, and adjusted it 2 turns out. When I started the bike up with the new fuel screw, NOTHING CHANGED the motor wouldn't idle unless I had my hand on the throttle and was constantly backfiring on every RPM. So now I have the carburetor removed and taken apart, I could clearly see all the jets were clear. There is one thing that I noticed, a piece inside the carburetor was chipped off. When I took apart the carburetor the chip never fell out so I'm assuming whoever was working on the bike last must have dropped the carb and chipped it. After that I unscrewed the sparkplug, the sparkplug came out WET with fuel, figure this is due to such a rich mixture. I'm beginning to think that when the fuel screw fell out a piece of dust may have gone in it's hole and gotten into the circuit. Here's a picture of that chipped piece I was talking about. The fuel inlet needle looks good
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Hey everyone, Needing some help after removing my 250X carburetor and now trying to reinstall the air boot to the carb. I can't seem to figure out the routing for the smog pump hose to the air boot and the crankcase breather hose to the air boot. The hoses are either getting in the way of reinstalling the air boot or they are pinching and binding. They came off the air boot when I put the subframe into "upright position" and I didn't get a good look at how they were routed. Any help would be awesome. I will likely get the smog pump removal kit, but today, I'm just hoping to get everything back together to ride before rain comes in.
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I have a Honda crf50f and its been sitting for 6 years. I just got a new carburetor and it's now running, only 1 problem. It wont idle when the choke is on or up position, it will only idle if choke is in the down or off position. Any help on what it could be? Thanks.
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Today I figured I would learn how to clean my carburetor. Watched a few vids this week on how to, and felt prepared. As I began taking apart the carb, I had a video playing in case I was confused. Took apart, cleaned, assembled, and got my XR70's back together, no one to the CRF80. I took the carb apart, pretty clean still but I cleaned it anyway. I put it back together. I plugged the back up vent and the gas line into the wrong port (switched spots), but the bike still ran. Fgured out what I had done wrong, fixed the issue so now gas wasn't pouring out of the drainage tube. Then I noticed I was having more issues. The bike wouldn't start. I went back to the throttle line which enters the carb, and noticed there was a brass colored V clip in there, looked as it had no purpose but I left it. I then redid the carb, and the bike started, but the throttle was sticking. I went back, took out that brass V clip and it the throttle doesn't stick. Now to the current issue: When I get the bike started (will only start on and stay on if choked) the throttle pulls and reacts fine, but when I release it, it takes a second or two for the cable to actually release. I believe there is some correlation to the brown clip. PLEASE HELP, REALLY NEED THIS BIKE BACK RUNNING FOR OUR TRIP NEXT WEEKEND!
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Hey guys new to the forum I just bought a new pitbike it's a gio 125cc when I bought it the bike wouldn't run without the choke fully on so my guess was the pilot jet just needed to be cleaned out and some fresh fuel should do the trick.... not the case after tearing the carb apart what felt like 100x and not much change in the idle I decided to go order a new carb. I put the new carb on which fit great minus the throttle cable being to long, the bike started right up and with some tuning it ran great with the choke off. I loaded the bike up in my truck to go rip it at a friend's place, I stopped by another buddy's place on the way to show him the new bike, I started it up did a burnout in the bed of my truck shut it off then headed to my friends house to go rip we off loaded the bike went to start it and it wouldn't run without the choke even after being warmed up. So I grabbed by old carb cleaned out the jets again with a torch and compressed air and slapped it back on, it runs way better then in the first place it will start with the choke or some throttle and will continue to run until it's without throttle for more then 5 seconds. I'm at a loss I have no idea what could be causing this any help is welcome! But please read the whole post I know it's long but I wanted to go over the whole situation so it's narrows things down hopefully
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Idle setting: How to "adjust cable play at full throttle" ??
Mucci posted a topic in Suzuki 2 Stroke
I've got a '72 TC90 I just picked up. I'm trying to get it running again. Just rebuilt the carb and I'm following the manual for the stock settings and ran into a perplexing adjustment... Under the initial idle settings it says: "At full throttle adjust play in the throttle cables to 0.5mm-1.0mm with the throttle cable adjuster at the top of the carburetor." I've been looking at this for a good hour now and I can't figure out what the hell that means. The grip will twist until the slide hits the top of it's travel...which is always what I've called full throttle. If you're holding it at full throttle then there's no way to add play into the cable...because you're holding it at full throttle, i.e. at it's full travel. Am I missing something really basic here?
